Bay of Martyrs Surf Forecast and Surf Report

G’day, Rusty here, and I’ve got the outlook for Bay of Martyrs. This is a reef break that only fires every now and then, so when it lines up, you better be on it. The water’s sittin’ at 57°, which is pretty much bang on average for this time of year – nothing wild there.

The first bit of the run is a bit of a mixed bag, but it’s the later days that’ll get your heart pumpin’. Let’s start with Thursday the 27th. The morning’s looking clean with a 5ft south-west swell and a light offshore breeze, but the energy’s only moderate at 961. It’s a good start, but nothing to blow your lid over. The afternoon turns a bit cross-shore, and the surf gets a little questionable.

Friday the 28th sees the swell jump up to 12ft out of the west-south-west, with a long 17-second period feeding in some serious grunt – wave energy is strong at 6438. But the wind’s a cross-onshore, so it’s gonna be a bit lumpy. This one’s more for the experienced crew, as it’s getting big. Saturday and Sunday the 29th and 30th stay solid around 8ft to 10ft, but the wind stays cross, so it’s not the cleanest.

Now, here’s where it gets interesting. Monday the 31st – the morning session is a standout. You’ve got an 12ft south-west swell with a 15-second period, light offshore winds, and the wave energy is pumping at 5630. This is legit, clean, and sets up nicely for the reef. The break is inconsistent, so you won’t be fighting crowds every set, but it can get a few people on it sometimes. The wind is light and cross-off, so expect glassy, well-shaped waves. The swell direction from the south-west is bang on what this spot likes. This is the best on offer for the first week.

The second week kicks off with a bit of a wind issue. Tuesday the 1st of September has an 8ft swell, but the wind is howling at 22 mph – it’s cross-off, but that’s a fresh breeze, and it’ll still be a battle. Wednesday the 2nd and Thursday the 3rd hold 12ft to 13ft swells, with the energy getting into the 5000s, but the wind stays moderate to fresh. It’s clean, but you’re getting into the size where it’s only for the top dogs.

Friday the 4th of September is the next big standout. The swell is 20ft out of the west-south-west, with 14-second periods and a massive 13985 energy reading. The wind is a moderate cross-off, so it’s clean, but this is huge – over 8ft, so experts only. If you’re not on a gun, stay out. The energy is described as very strong (13985). This is a serious day.

Saturday and Sunday the 5th and 6th turn ugly – the wind swings cross-on and fresh, making the 16ft to 20ft swell a total mess. Poor conditions, straight up. Monday the 7th is another monster day with 20ft swell and 16-second period, wind is cross-off, but the forecast says it’s too big for this break. The energy hits 18490 – that’s insane. Not a paddle day.

Tuesday the 8th brings 26ft swell, but it’s onshore and messy. Wednesday the 9th cools down to 20ft with a light cross-shore, but it’s still a big cleanup. The last couple of days, Thursday the 10th and Friday the 11th, drop back to 8ft and 7ft swells, with clean offshore winds and moderate energy. Good for the experienced surfer, but not the big show.

Overall, the real standout is the morning of Monday the 31st of August for the best balance of size, direction, and clean conditions. The second standout is Friday the 4th of September for the massive, clean swell, but that’s only for the brave. If you’re a beginner, the first few days are too small and the later days are too big – the 27th morning might be your best bet with that 5ft and clean winds.

That’s the word from the beach. Stay safe out there.

Rusty

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