Bay of Martyrs Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let’s break down Bay of Martyrs. This is a proper reef break, and it’s for the experienced crew. The water is about 57°F, which is right where it should be for the season.

First real swell shows up Tuesday morning, the 8th of September. A clean 7ft SW groundswell, with a long period of 18 seconds, and a light cross-offshore breeze. The combined energy is moderate to strong (3949). This is perfect for advanced surfers, but beginners should stay out of the water – it’s over 5ft and that reef is sharp. That long period will give the waves real punch, and the sets will be spaced out, making it easier to get out back.

Tuesday afternoon gets messy – the wind turns onshore and bumps the 10ft swell into a choppy cross-shore mess. The energy jumps to 4991, but it’s not worth it.

Wednesday, the 9th, is a beast. 18ft of SW swell in the morning, period 19 seconds, with a strong onshore wind. The combined energy is enormous (21518), but it’s too big and blown out. The afternoon holds 20ft – still too big. This is for the big-wave specialists only, and even then, it’s rough.

Thursday the 10th has 16ft to 15ft of SW swell, period 16 seconds. The wind is cross-onshore and light, so it’s a bit lumpy. Not a great day.

Now, the standout. Friday morning, the 11th of September. The wind goes dead calm – glassy. The swell drops to a much more manageable 12ft SW, with a period of 14 seconds. The combined energy is moderate (4334), and it’s clean as a whistle. This is the best session of the whole 16 days for experienced surfers. The break is inconsistent, but when it’s like this, it’s a dream.

Saturday the 12th has a clean 12ft SW swell, period 15 seconds, with a light cross-offshore breeze. Energy is 4668. It’s a solid option, but that glassy Friday is the one.

Sunday the 13th sees the swell drop to 8ft, with a strong offshore wind (15 mph) from the north. Energy is 2390. It’s clean and offshore. The afternoon drops to 6ft, still offshore and clean. A good day for a more relaxed session.

Then we hit a dry spell. The swell sinks to 5ft on Monday the 14th, and the wind turns cross-shore and nasty. Tuesday the 15th to Wednesday the 16th sees a bump back to 10ft to 12ft, but the wind is onshore or cross-onshore, keeping it choppy and marginal. Crowds are possible, but there’s not much to get excited about.

Another standout appears on Thursday the 17th of September. A clean 10ft SW swell, period 15 seconds, with a light cross-offshore breeze. Energy is 3911. The morning is excellent for experienced surfers. The afternoon holds 8ft, clean, and light cross-offshore. This is your second-best window.

Friday the 18th has a strong offshore wind (22 mph) and an 8ft SW swell, period 14 seconds. It’s clean, but the wind is stiff. The afternoon has 10ft, with a long period of 17 seconds, and a cross-offshore breeze. Energy is strong (5493), but it’s marginal.

Into the second week, it gets big again. Saturday the 20th has a 15ft SW swell, period 14 seconds, with a fresh cross-offshore wind. Energy is very strong (7802). The afternoon jumps to 18ft, period 16 seconds, and cross-shore wind – too big and messy.

Sunday the 21st holds 18ft to 16ft of SW swell, periods 16-17 seconds. Energy is very strong (up to 15982). The wind is cross-offshore and light, so it’s clean, but it’s massive. Expert-only.

Tuesday the 23rd drops to 10ft, but the wind is cross-shore and messy, so it’s poor.

Bottom line: Friday morning, the 11th of September, is your absolute best bet – glassy, 12ft, and clean. Thursday the 17th of September is a close second – clean, 10ft, and light cross-offshore. The rest of the second week is either too big, too windy, or poor quality. There’s a few days of small, poor surf in the middle, so pick your spots.

Rusty.

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