Bay of Martyrs Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here. Let’s get into it.

We’re looking at a serious run of swell headed for Bay of Martyrs. This is a powerful, exposed reef that only fires for the experienced crew, so don’t get any ideas if you’re not solid. The water temp is sitting at 57°, which is pretty much normal for this time of year – nothing wild there.

The first real action kicks off Tuesday morning, August 18th. It’s a bit of a mixed bag to start – solid 6ft SW swell with a long 14-second period, but a cross-offshore wind from the NE at 16 mph keeps it clean enough. The combined energy is strong (1985). Not the standout, but it’s a decent warm-up. By Tuesday afternoon, the wind swings more offshore from the NNE, dropping to 12 mph, and the swell cleans up nicely at 5ft SW with a very long 16-second period. That’s a proper groundswell, and the energy is still strong (1454). It’s good for experienced surfers, but it’s not the best of the run.

Wednesday the 19th gets a bit messy. Morning has offshore wind, but it’s fresh at 19 mph, and the swell drops to 4ft. The energy is moderate (655). Not worth getting too excited about. The whole week from the 20th onward builds, but the wind and conditions are often cross or choppy. Thursday the 20th morning sees a jump to 7ft W swell, but it’s a short 9-second period, which is sloppy. Afternoon gets bigger at 8ft W, but a cross-shore wind and a 13-second period makes it a lumpy mess for all but the most committed.

Friday the 21st is where it starts to get interesting. Friday morning has a 10ft WSW swell with a 15-second period, and a light cross-offshore breeze from the WNW at 9 mph. Clean. The energy is very strong (3594). This is a serious swell, but it’s big – over 8ft, so experts only. Friday afternoon holds at 8ft WSW with a 14-second period and cleaner winds. Energy is huge (5137). This is a contender.

Now, for the real standout: Saturday the 22nd is the peak of the first pulse. Both morning and afternoon have a massive 13ft SW swell with a 15-second period. The energy is off the charts (7009 and 7091). The downside – it’s cross-shore wind from the W at 12 mph, so it’ll be a choppy, powerful beast. Not for the faint of heart. If you’re an expert and you love a challenge, this is your window, but it’s not going to be perfect.

The next major highlight, and my pick for the absolute best on offer, lands on Thursday, August 27th. Thursday afternoon is pure magic – a 13ft WSW swell with a 13-second period, and a gentle cross-offshore breeze from the NW at only 9 mph. The combined energy is a staggering 9567 – that is an enormous amount of power, but with clean conditions. This is exceptional, expert-level surf. If you can handle it, this is the session to aim for.

Friday morning the 28th still has that 13ft WSW swell with a 14-second period and next to no wind, but the wind swings onshore by the afternoon, so get it early. After that, things taper off into the first days of September with smaller, cleaner, but less exciting waves. There’s a big gap of poor conditions around the 25th and 26th, with strong cross-onshore winds and lumpy surf – a write-off for paddling, and honestly, it looks more interesting for kite surfing than paddle surfing.

So, to sum it up: there’s no surf for a couple of days right now, then it builds into a solid, powerful run. The standout is Thursday afternoon, August 27th at Bay of Martyrs. It’s big, it’s clean, and it’s for experts only. Get on it if you’ve got the nerve.

Rusty.

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