Trez Hir Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here, let’s have a look at what’s cookin’ over the next couple of weeks.

First off, the good news – there’s actually a solid run of swell headed our way, but you gotta be patient. The first few days are a bit of a mixed bag, so don’t rush out just yet.

The real standout window starts kicking off on Sunday the 13th and carries through the middle of the week. The morning of the 13th is looking prime: clean, cross-off wind, and a solid 6ft W-NW swell with a nice 11-second period. That’s proper groundswell energy, and the combined energy reading of 753 shows there’s some real push behind it. Trez Hir is a fairly exposed spot for this swell direction, so it’ll handle it well.

Now, if you can wait, Wednesday the 16th afternoon is also looking like a serious session – 7ft of W-NW swell, moderate offshore wind, and the energy is cranking at 1027. That’s solid, powerful stuff, but with the size getting over 7ft, it’s for the more experienced crew only.

But if you want my pick for the best of the whole run, keep your eye on Saturday the 19th. Both the morning and afternoon are showing 6ft W-NW swell, 11-12 second period, and clean offshore wind. The energy readings are in the 800-900 range, and with that many days of consistent swell, the ocean will have a nice rhythm. Crowds are sometimes a factor here, so you might have some company, but the quality will be worth it.

After that, there’s a bit of a lull early in the third week, but don’t write it off. Tuesday the 22nd afternoon is showing a 6ft swell with a 14-second period – that’s proper long-period groundswell – and 1476 energy. It’s a moderate cross-off breeze, so it’ll be clean. The only thing is, that long period can make a beach break like this sloppy, but with a cross-off wind, you’ll still find some good ones.

And then, the real dark horse is Wednesday the 23rd afternoon. Glassy conditions, 6ft W-NW swell with 11 seconds, and the energy at 926. That’s as clean as it gets – glassy water and a solid swell. That’s a session you’ll remember.

Right at the tail end, Thursday the 24th afternoon is massive: 8ft swell, glassy, 12-second period, and combined energy over 1900. That’s for experts only. If you’re a strong paddler and know the break, it could be the wave of the run.

Water temp is about average for mid-September, so nothing unusual there – just your typical autumn feels.

So get the weekend of the 13th locked in, and then keep the 19th and 23rd on your radar. That’s your sweet spot.

- Rusty

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