Porsmilin Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Right then, let's have a look at what's on the cards for the coming weeks down at Porsmilin. Frankly, it's been a tough run of flatness and poor conditions, but there is a little glimmer of something down the line that might just get the heart pumping.

Alright, so to be straight with you, the next week and a half looks pretty grim. We're starting with Wednesday morning the 12th and there's barely a whisper of energy – small 3ft swell from the west with a light cross-onshore breeze, making for a messy, choppy surface. The combined energy is weak at 126. Not worth paddling out for. That same low-energy pattern just drags on. Wednesday afternoon the 13th sees a bit more push with 4ft from the west and a longer period of 11 seconds, giving us a moderate energy reading of 277, and the wind turns cross-offshore so it'll be clean. But the rating is low, and it's still average-sized, ordinary waves. By Thursday morning the 14th, the swell drops back and we're stuck with small, clean but lifeless surf. We get a bit of a north offshore on Saturday morning the 15th, but that 3ft swell is weak (168 energy) and short-period at 8 seconds – all huff and no puff.

Then we hit a real flat spell. From Sunday the 16th right through to Tuesday the 25th, there are just days and days of tiny, weak waves with nothing happening. We're talking 1ft to 3ft slop, and the energy values are often below 100. You could count the days with even a hint of rideable swell on one hand, and even then the wind is on it. A real blank run on the cards.

Now, hold on. Things get interesting around Wednesday the 19th. A solid W/NW swell pushes in, hitting 5ft in the morning with a long 12-second period. The energy jumps right up to 730, a solid moderate pulse. But the wind is a cross-shore, which is going to put some lump on the face. With the period that long, this is a groundswell and it'll be better on the points and reefs – Porsmilin is a sandbar, so it might just wall up and close out a bit. By the afternoon it's 6ft and the energy is roaring at 1532, strong wave energy, but that fresh cross-shore chop is going to make it messy.

The real standout, however, and the one I'd circle on the calendar, comes on Thursday the 27th of August. We get a proper pulse of west swell at a solid 12ft, with a 10-second period, and the combined energy is a massive 2500 – that's very strong. The morning wind is a cross-shore from the west, which isn't perfect but it's manageable. Now, here's the catch: 12ft is genuinely big for this sandbar. The forecaster notes that wind and tide are favorable, but the swell is predicted to be too big for this break. That said, for an experienced crew on the right board, that's exactly the kind of day you live for. It'll be a heavy, powerful beast, but it's the best on offer by a country mile. Crowds are sometimes an issue at Porsmilin, so if you see a proper size, expect a few of the locals out.

The water temperature is around 65-66° in the first part, which is about average for this time of year off the coast here.

So there you have it: a long stretch of nothing, then a raw, powerful swell on the 27th that's more for the experts. It's been a quiet season, but that one day has some serious promise.

Rusty.

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