Guethary - Les Alcyons/Avalanche Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here, looking at the local scene. We’ve got one spot on the radar for the next couple of weeks, and it’s a ripper of a reef setup that’s only for the brave. It’s going to be a bit of a waiting game for the real magic, but when it comes, it’ll be worth the wait.

For the next week or so, honestly, don’t get wet. From now through the end of August, the swell is tiny and the conditions are messy. We’re looking at weak, short-period junk in the 1 to 2 ft range with mostly onshore or cross-onshore winds. The energy levels are pathetic, barely breaking triple digits (25 to 61). A few mornings might look clean or glassy, but there’s just no power behind it. The swell is poor, so give the boards a rest.

We start to see a pulse of energy pick up around the 28th of August. Friday morning the swell jumps to 6 ft, but it’s coming with a stiff cross-shore and a combined energy of 365, which is moderate but not clean. The wind is all over the place, so while it’s bigger, the quality isn’t there yet.

Now, here’s where it gets interesting. The standout session looks to be Saturday the 29th, first light. We’ve got a 5 ft NW groundswell with a clean 9-second period, and the wind is a light easterly, giving us a clean, cross-offshore flow. The energy is pumping at 388, and for a reef this exposed, that’s solid. This is the best on offer in the early window – it’s the one to aim for. Expect a buttery morning with decent, powerful waves. Later that afternoon the wind swings north and messes it up, so it’s a morning-only strike.

There’s another big gap of poor conditions after that until the 1st of September. Tuesday the 1st of September morning is looking very promising. We’ve got a sweet 6 ft NW groundswell, a 10-second period, and clean cross-offshore easterly winds. The combined energy is cranking at 628, making for some moderate to strong wave energy. This is a solid, proper groundswell for the point.

The real beast, though, is sitting out there for the 8th of September. That Tuesday morning is showing a massive 13 ft WNW swell with a 10-second period and glassy conditions. The combined energy is an insane 3476, which is very strong. This is a big, powerful swell, and for a reef like this, only experts should even think about it. It will be huge, clean, and dangerous. The confidence is lower this far out, but if it comes together, it will be the wave of the month. The following Wednesday the 9th still has solid 6 ft energy but the wind is more onshore and messy.

This spot is a consistent, expert-only reef break. It’s exposed to the west and the optimum swell is from the west, so that big WNW swell is dead on. Be warned, it gets *often* crowded, so for the best sessions, you’ll be in a pack. Also, the water is unusually warm right now; the anomaly is 3°C above normal, so it’s much warmer than usual for late August.

For the kite surfers among ya, watch the afternoons. When that swell is over 5 ft with strong cross-onshore winds, like 28th August afternoon, it’s going to be more fun on a kite than a paddle board.

All in all, wait for Saturday the 29th morning, then mark your calendar for the 1st and 8th of September.

Cheers,
Rusty

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