The groyne Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let me break down this stretch for The groyne. To be honest, the first week and a half is a total wasteland. From Monday the 10th right through to Wednesday the 19th, it’s flat, weak, and windblown. You’ve got tiny, short-period slop, with combined energy readings barely getting out of the low hundreds (258, 97, 76, 57). The winds are all over the place – cross-off, cross-on – never giving us anything clean. There was one glassy morning on the 12th, but with only 2ft of swell and no power, it’s pointless. We’re looking at a solid nine days of nothing.

Around Thursday the 20th, the swell starts to push up a bit, with the energy hitting the moderate range (522, 628). The period lengthens to a more respectable 8-9 seconds and we’re seeing waves in the 5ft range. But the wind is still blowing cross-onshore from the SE, so it’s just going to be choppy and messy. The power is there, but the quality is non-existent.

Now, the one bright spot in this whole forecast is the morning of Monday, the 24th of August. That’s the day. We’ve got a clean 4ft of east swell, a 9-second period, and the energy is still solid at 295. But the magic is the wind: a light cross-offshore breeze from the SSW. That will keep the face clean and make it very surfable. The forecast even says “expect good surf conditions.”

And then Tuesday morning, the 25th, is another little gem. A 3-4ft east swell, but the wind swings offshore from the WNW at just 3 mph. Should be really clean with that light air, and energy of 202. That’s a great day for a log or a funboard.

So here’s the plan: forget the first ten days. Don’t even look at the ocean. The surf finally shows up on the 20th, but it’s ugly. The standout is Monday the 24th, with Tuesday the 25th a decent backup. It’s still a week out, so keep an eye on it, but it’s definitely the most promising part of this whole forecast.

Rusty out.

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