Rincon - Indicator Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s get stuck into it.

Right off the bat, I’m gonna be straight with you – this is a tough stretch for Rincon. The forecast is showing a long, quiet run with no real standouts to get excited about. We’re looking at a solid gap of nearly a week before we even see a glimmer of something surfable. From the 30th of August right through until the morning of the 5th of September, it’s all poor surf conditions. The swell is tiny, mostly around 1 ft to 3 ft, and the wind is on it or cross-on the whole time, which is a real bummer for a point break that needs it clean. The combined wave energy is weak, sitting between 90 and 441, so there’s just no grunt in the water.

Now, the first session that’s worth a mention is the afternoon of Saturday the 5th of September. We’ve got a light 3 ft SSW swell, but the key here is the wind goes onshore, light, at 6 mph. That’s a bit more promising. The combined energy has picked up to 341 (moderate), and the swell period is a solid 16 seconds, which is proper groundswell. It’s still only marginal, but it’s the best the window has to offer for a while. The direction is SSW, which isn’t the ideal W for Rincon, so it won’t be firing at its best, but it’ll put a few lines through.

Then, we get a bit of an odd one on Sunday the 6th of September. The morning is a bit rubbish, but the afternoon turns glassy with 2 ft SSW swell (15-second period). The energy is down to 139 (weak), but with zero wind and a glassy surface, it’s “surfable waves but very ordinary conditions.” For a point break, that’s a rare chance at a clean, quiet session, even if the waves are small.

The next real blip of interest is the afternoon of Tuesday the 8th of September. Swell jumps up to 4 ft from the SSW with a 12-second period, and the combined energy hits 549 (moderate). It’s still a “marginal surf forecast” with a light cross-onshore breeze. That’s the biggest swell of the whole forecast, but the wind isn’t doing us any favours.

Honestly, after that, it’s back to the same old story. The 9th of September has a 5 ft SSW swell on the morning, but the wind is on it at 6 mph, and the energy is solid at 495 (moderate). The swell period is 10 seconds, which is a bit short and weak. It’s got potential, but the conditions are poor. The rest of the second week fades out with tiny, onshore slop.

If you’re an absolute beginner, most of this is fine, but it’s not flash. If you’re a seasoned local, you’re waiting for that glassy afternoon on the 6th or the slightly bigger, but wind-affected, afternoon on the 8th. That 4 ft to 5 ft stuff is still manageable for most, but it’s not the kind of Rincon we dream about.

Keep an eye on the sky, because this dry spell won’t last forever, but for now, it’s a waiting game.

Rusty.

Read more