Middles/Generals Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Hey, Rusty here. Let’s talk about what’s coming up at Middles/Generals.

Honestly, the outlook for the next two weeks is a real mixed bag, and for the first stretch, there’s just nothing to get excited about. From Saturday the 22nd right through to the end of August, the wind is a constant issue – strong cross-shore breezes from the ENE, mostly in the 18-25 mph range, turning the surf into a lumpy, messy cross-chop. Swell sits between 5 ft and 6 ft for most of that period, but with those winds, it’s just blown out and ugly. Wave energy is moderate (245 to 934), but it doesn’t matter with that wind. The water temp is around 80°, which is normal for the time of year.

The first sign of life comes on Wednesday the 2nd of September. That morning, the wind drops right off to just 3 mph from the NE, and the swell switches to a clean 3 ft from the south with a long 17-second period – proper groundswell. The wave energy is still strong (724). The conditions are described as “marginal” in the morning, but by Wednesday afternoon, it turns glassy. The swell drops a touch to 3 ft from the south, 16-second period, and with that glassy surface, you’ve got the best surf of the whole forecast. It’s small, but clean and lined up. That afternoon is the standout – get on it.

After that, Thursday the 3rd of September sees the wind pick up again slightly, and the swell fades a bit. It’s not worth chasing.

Then we have a long gap of poor conditions and onshore wind until the weekend of the 5th and 6th of September. On Saturday the 5th, the swell starts building from the east, hitting 4 ft in the morning with a long 16-second period and strong energy (1415). But the wind is cross-onshore and choppy. By the afternoon, the swell is 6 ft from the east, same long period, and energy jumps to 2133 – moderate to strong. Wind is moderate cross-shore, but still a cross-chop. It’s marginal.

Then Sunday the 6th of September, things get big. A 10 ft swell from the ENE rolls in, with 14-second period and massive energy (3652 in the morning, 3424 in the afternoon). That’s too much for Middles/Generals – it’s expert-only territory, and the wind, while moderate, is cross-shore. The setup looks more interesting for kite surfing than paddle surfing on that day.

So, the real highlight is that Wednesday 2nd September afternoon session – small, clean, glassy, with that long south swell. Get it while it’s good.

Rusty.

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