Middles/Generals Surf Forecast and Surf Report

G’day, it’s Rusty. I’ve been staring at the charts for our region, and honestly, it’s a tough run ahead. Right now, we’ve got a solid ENE breeze—around 25 mph—that’s just ripping across the face, making a mess of things. The water’s sitting at a warm 80°F, which is pretty much bang on average for this time of year, so no surprises there. But the surf? It’s a grind.

We kick off on Friday, July 31, with a 7 ft easterly swell, but that cross-on wind is killing it. The wave energy is moderate at 712, but the period’s short, barely 7 seconds, and the whole thing’s a lumpy, cross-chop mess. You’d be paddling your brains out for nothing. That carries right through the weekend. Saturday, August 1, the swell bumps up to 10 ft from the east, with energy climbing to 1311—moderate to strong—but again, that 28 mph ENE wind is just howling onshore. It’s wild, but not surfable. By Sunday, August 2, we’re still seeing 8 ft to 7 ft, same cross-shore wind, same chop. This is more kite-surfing territory than paddle surfing.

The first real glimmer doesn’t show until Tuesday, August 4. The morning sees a 5 ft swell from the east, period stretching to 11 seconds, and energy at 654. The wind drops to 16 mph, still cross-shore, but it’s a moderate breeze now, so the chop is less chaotic. It’s marginal—score suggests it’s borderline—but for a determined intermediate at Middles/Generals, you might find a few workable ones. The afternoon drops to 5 ft, same deal, but the tide or timing might not line up.

After that, we slide back into a poor pattern. Wednesday, August 5, through to the end of the first week, it’s all 4 ft to 6 ft junk with fresh to strong cross-shore winds. The energy dips to 314 on Wednesday morning, which is weak, and the period hovers around 7 to 9 seconds—just messy, crumbly waves. Not worth the drive.

Now, into the second week, things get interesting for a different reason. Starting Sunday, August 9, we see a shift in swell direction. The afternoon brings a 2 ft south-southwest swell with a very long period of 18 seconds—that’s proper groundswell. The energy is moderate at 651, but it’s a small wave. The wind is still a fresh cross-shore, so it’s lumpy, but that long period means there’s clean energy underneath. This is a point-break or reef wave, not a beach break, so keep that in mind. The same pattern continues Monday, August 10, with a 3 ft SSW swell, 16-second period, and energy up to 712. Still cross-shore wind, but the swell is cleaner.

The best chance we get in the whole 16 days is on Wednesday, August 12. That morning, we’ve got a 3 ft swell from the south, period of 18 seconds, and energy at 839—moderate but building. The wind is down to 16 mph from the ENE, a moderate breeze, and it’s cross-shore, so there’s still a bit of chop, but it’s the most manageable it’s been. The afternoon sees 3 ft from the south, 17-second period, and energy at 888. This is the standout. For a spot like Middles/Generals, which is exposed to the east, a south swell isn’t its ideal direction—the optimum is ESE—but when the period is that long, the wave quality can be smooth and powerful. The crowds here are often present, so expect company. For intermediates, the swell size is safe, but the long period makes it punchy, especially on a beach break.

Thursday, August 13, is the next best. Morning brings a 4 ft south swell, 16-second period, energy at 701, and a gentle breeze of 9 mph. That’s a glassy-ish cross-shore, which is a major positive for clean faces. Score is marginal but the highest we’ve seen—a 2 out of 10. The afternoon gets windier, 16 mph, but still moderate. After that, it fades. Friday, August 14, the swell drops to 3 ft, period shortens, and the wind picks up. By Saturday, August 15, we’re down to 3 ft with a fresh cross-shore, and the combined energy tanks to 267—barely a ripple.

So, the long and short of it: we’ve got a gap of poor surf from July 31 through August 3, then a marginal window on August 4. The real standouts are August 12 and August 13, with that long-period south swell. It’s promising, but it’s a week and a half away, so keep an eye on the forecasts. If you’re a solid intermediate, those are your days. For everyone else, it’s a waiting game.

Rusty.

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