Kaolins Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let’s talk about what’s cookin’ on this stretch. The swell window’s open from the west, but the first week’s gonna be a real pain – a lot of wind and not much worth paddling out for. Don’t get too fired up too early, but there’s a couple of proper gems later on if you can wait it out.

So, we start off Friday, 11th September. Nothin’ doin’. We got about 4ft swell from the west with a 9-second period, but the wind’s cross from the WNW at 6 mph, makin’ it a total mess. The combined energy’s moderate at 251, but honestly, forget it. Saturday the 12th is glassy in the morning, with a tiny 3ft west swell and a short 8-second period, but it’s just too weak – energy’s only 87 – and it’s a write-off. That glassy calm is nice on the eyes, but there’s barely a ripple. Sunday’s got 3ft swell with a 12-second period – that’s a nice long period groundswell, could shape up well at a reef – but the wind’s cross-on from the west, so no joy there either. The whole first week’s a dud for surf.

Monday 14th September – first bit of life. We get a 3ft west swell, 9-second period, and finally a light cross-offshore breeze from the ESE at 6 mph. It’s clean, but it’s small and weak, energy only 131. Surfable, but very ordinary. Tuesday and Wednesday are back to being blown-out and choppy. The only thing worth talkin’ about is Wednesday afternoon the 16th – we see a jump to 6ft from the WNW, 10-second period, and energy’s cranked right up to 1013 – strong wave energy – but the wind’s a fresh cross-shore at 19 mph, so it’s lumpy as hell and only for the die-hards.

The real standout, the one you’ve been waitin’ for, is a week from next Sunday – that’s September 20th. The morning session at Kaolins (this is a reef setup, so it loves a groundswell) is gonna be the pick of the whole 16-day window. We got a 6ft swell from the west, and the period is a massive 16 seconds – that’s a very long period groundswell, pure energy. The combined energy’s at an excellent 1477, so there’s plenty of push. The wind’s light from the ESE at 6 mph, blowin’ cross-offshore and makin’ it clean. This is for experienced surfers only – over 5ft and that long period will make it hollow and powerful. Expect proper sets, and with it bein’ an inconsistent spot, snaggin’ a good one will feel that much sweeter. Water temp is 66°, which is a touch warmer than normal for this time of year – so you won’t need the thickest wetsuit.

Then, move into the second week, and it’s a bit of a mix. Monday 21st September has 4ft swell from the west, 13-second period, with fresh NE offshore winds at 22 mph – clean but a bit blustery, and it’s flagged as marginal due to tide. Energy’s 590, moderate to strong. That’s a solid session, but not in the same league as Sunday. After that, the swell drops off again. Tuesday and Wednesday the 22nd and 23rd are tiny and weak, with clean wind but hardly any push – 248 and 62. Thursday the 24th and Friday the 25th are similar, just small, clean knee-high dribbles.

But hold up, Saturday 26th September – the last day in the window – looks promising again. Afternoon session with a 6ft swell from the west, 14-second period, and energy’s through the roof at 1541. Light offshore breeze from the NE at 6 mph, clean as a whistle. That’s another excellent day for experienced crew. This swell’s got real weight.

Overall, the first week’s a write-off. You’re lookin’ at about 7 to 8 days of mostly poor to ordinary conditions. The standout is Sunday 20th September morning – that’s your best chance for a real session. The Saturday 26th afternoon is also a beauty, but it’s right at the end of the forecast, so keep an eye on it. Crowds at Kaolins are listed as ‘sometimes’, so you might have to share it, but with that quality, it’ll be worth it.

Rusty.

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