Kaolins Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, I’m looking at what we’ve got here for the next couple of weeks. Truth be told, it’s a rough stretch ahead. We’re talking about Kaolins, a reef break that’s inconsistent and needs a good SW swell to really fire. The water temp is sitting at 65°, which is right around average for this time of year, so nothing wild there.

The first real surfable day doesn’t show up until Tuesday, September 8th. That’s a solid week of waiting. From now through the first week of September, it’s basically a write-off – poor conditions, choppy, onshore winds, and weak energy. There’s a short stretch around Saturday the 29th where the swell bumps up to 7ft, but with 25 mph winds and a combined energy of 513, it’s messy and blown out. Not worth paddling out.

So, we’ve got a gap of about 11 days with no real recommendations. Then, things start to look a little more promising.

Tuesday, September 8th – The first glimmer of hope. The morning shows a clean, cross-offshore breeze from the NNE, a 4ft swell from the WNW with a period of 10 seconds, and combined energy of 453. It’s not huge, but it’s clean. This is a day for the patient surfer.

Wednesday, September 9th – Offshore winds from the NE, 9 mph, and a 6ft swell from the WSW. The period is short at 6 seconds, so it’s a bit weak and crumbly, but the clean conditions make it rideable. Not a standout, but a step in the right direction.

Thursday, September 10th – A clean morning again with a light N wind and a 3ft swell from the WSW. The energy is moderate at 226. It’s small, but it’s clean.

Friday, September 11th – This is where it gets interesting. The morning shows a 8ft swell from the west with an 8-second period, and the combined energy jumps to 1177. That’s serious energy. With a gentle offshore breeze from the NNE, the conditions are clean. This is the standout of the whole forecast. That said, 8ft is getting into expert-only territory, especially at a reef break. The period is short, so it’ll be a bit fat and dumpy, but the power is there. For a surfer who knows what they’re doing, this could be a proper session.

The afternoon on Friday fades – the wind goes cross-shore, the swell drops to 5ft, and the energy falls off. So the morning window is the call.

Overall, it’s a long wait for a short window of clean surf. The best bet is Friday, September 11th morning, but don’t expect it to be perfect. This is a reef break that’s inconsistent and rarely breaks, so when it does, you take what you can get. The crowds are listed as “sometimes,” so you might have company out there.

Rusty.

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