Kaolins Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s take a look at what’s coming up for Kaolins.

First up, I gotta be straight with you. The next week and a half is looking pretty grim. There’s nothing rideable for the first couple of days, and honestly, the pattern hangs on for a long time with poor conditions. From Monday the 24th right through to the start of September, every session is rated as poor surf. The westerly swell is tiny, mostly around 1 ft to 3 ft, and the wind is often cross-onshore or onshore, blowing it out. The water temp is about average for the time of year, nothing unusual there.

We do get a bit more swell energy around Thursday the 27th and Friday the 28th, with waves pushing 5 ft to 7 ft from the SW and WSW, and the combined energy jumps into the moderate range (382 to 472). But the wind is just not your friend – it’s mainly cross-onshore, and the surf is described as choppy or lumpy. The period is short, around 7 to 8 seconds, so it’s just messy, wind-affected junk. For a reef break like Kaolins, that’s a no-go.

We drift into a gap with no real recommendations for days. The best window doesn’t open up until the second week of the forecast. Hold on.

There is a real glimmer of hope on Monday the 7th of September. The morning shows a clean, cross-off wind from the ESE at 12 mph, with some 4 ft swell from the west, period of 10 seconds, and combined energy of 451 (moderate). The wind is coming off the land, so it should be clean. The wave state is reported as “clean.” That’s the one standout, but it’s still marginal, only a score of 1 for surf quality.

Then, Tuesday the 8th of September is the big one. The swell pumps up to 10 ft from the WSW, with a very long period of 15 seconds – that’s proper groundswell, folks. The combined energy hits 6516, strong to very strong. Wind is light and cross-shore from the SE at 9 mph, keeping it reasonably clean. This is a heavy-duty swell, for experts only. At 10 ft on a reef, beginners stay out of the water. The period is so long that it might break a little too straight for a beach setup, but for a reef like Kaolins, that’s exactly what you want – long, powerful lines, with good gaps between sets. This is the best on offer, no question.

But remember, this is a long-range call, so it’s promising but not a dead cert. The break is inconsistent, so don’t expect it to be pumping every day, and when it’s good, crowds are possible.

So, if you’re an expert, pencil in the 8th of September. For everyone else, keep waiting.

Rusty.

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