Empty Lots Surf Forecast and Surf Report

G’day, I’m Rusty. Look, I’ll be straight with you – the first week and a half is a real mixed bag with only one or two solid windows to get excited about.

We’re kicking off on Sunday the 9th of August at Empty Lots, and it's not pretty. That’s a reef break, exposed to swell, but the wind is cross from the ENE at 19 mph and the surf is a messy 4 ft from the ENE with a short, weak period of 8 seconds. The combined energy is only moderate at 564, and the water temp is 81°F, which is about normal for the time of year. Conditions are poor, so don't bother paddling out.

Monday the 10th through to Friday the 14th sees small, weak swell – mostly around 2 ft to 5 ft from the SSW or S, but the wind stays cross or cross-onshore from the ENE, blowing 16 to 19 mph. The periods get slightly longer (14 to 18 seconds), which is a groundswell signal, but the cross-chop and lumpy conditions ruin it. Scores are zero or marginal at best. The combined energy fluctuates from 406 up to 1145 (moderate to strong), but without clean wind it’s just not surfable.

Now, here’s the standout. Saturday the 15th of August is where things shift. On the Saturday morning, we’ve got 7 ft from the E at 12 seconds, cross-off wind from the NE at 19 mph – clean conditions. The energy jumps to 1531 (strong). By Saturday afternoon, it gets bigger: 12 ft from the ENE, period 13 seconds, and the combined energy surges to 6047 (very strong). That’s a lot of power. But caution – this swell is over 8 ft, so it’s only for experienced crew. The cross-off wind keeps it clean.

Sunday the 16th of August is the real gem. Morning and afternoon both have 12 ft of ENE groundswell at 13 seconds, but the wind is glass – N at only 3 mph. That’s a glassy, clean surface and the combined energy is still massive at 4184 and 3969. This is excellent surf for experienced surfers only. The direction is ENE, which is cross-off for this spot (optimum from SSE), but with that size and glass, you won’t care. Just know that because it’s such a long-period groundswell (13 seconds) at a reef break, the sets will have real punch and longer gaps – worth the wait though. Crowds are possible here.

After that, from Monday the 17th through to the end of the period, the swell drops right back. We’re looking at 2 ft to 6 ft, mostly from the S, SW or short-period E windswell, with cross or onshore winds from many directions. Conditions are poor to marginal, with scores mostly zero. There’s a brief mention of clean cross-off wind on Monday the 24th of August afternoon, but the swell is only 3 ft from the SSW at 15 seconds – marginal at best. The run after the 16th is basically a flat spell, so enjoy that Sunday while it lasts.

Bottom line: Sunday the 16th of August is the one to circle. Big, glassy groundswell at an exposed reef. Not for beginners, but if you’ve got the skills and the paddle, it’ll be a session to remember.

Rusty.

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