Donuts Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, mate, Rusty here. Let’s talk about the surf for the next couple of weeks.

Honestly, it’s a slow start. We’re staring at a whole lot of nothing for the first week plus. The swell is small, the conditions are messy, and it’s just not happening. The water temp is sitting around 69°F, which is pretty much normal for this time of year, so at least you won’t be shaking while you’re watching the flat ocean.

The break in question is Donuts (a sheltered reef that’s inconsistent and rarely breaks, so it’s a tricky spot). The best swell direction here is from the west, but we’re mostly getting southwest. The wave energy is weak to moderate for most of the run, with combined energy readings in the 200s and 300s – nothing to get excited about.

The first real glimmer of hope shows up around Wednesday the 26th of August. Swell picks up to about 4ft from the SSW, period around 13 seconds, and the combined energy hits 870 (moderate). Winds are cross-shore and light, so it’s a bit choppy, but it’s the first time we’re seeing anything that might be rideable. Still, it’s called marginal, so don’t expect a treat.

Things stay pretty average through the end of August and into the start of September. The swell hangs around 3ft to 4ft, mostly from the SSW or SW, with periods between 12 and 16 seconds. The winds are often cross-on or cross, keeping the surface messy. The energy is in the moderate range, with readings in the 400s to 700s.

Now, the standout window – and I’m saying this with a bit of caution because it’s a week and a half away – looks like Thursday the 4th of September. We’ve got a solid 4ft swell from the SW, period stretching to 17 seconds, which is proper long-period groundswell. The combined energy is 984 (strong), and the wind is from the SSE at 12 mph, blowing cross-offshore. That’s a clean setup. The afternoon session on the 4th might be the best we see, with a clean report and the highest score in the whole run. The swell direction is SW, which is close to the optimum W, and the long period will definitely help shape at a reef like Donuts. Just keep in mind, with a 17-second period, the sets will be spaced out, but the waves will have some punch.

After that, it fades back into poor surf and marginal conditions. The swell drops, the winds turn onshore, and we’re back to small, weak energy.

So, if you’re keen for a paddle, the best chance is the afternoon of Friday the 4th of September at Donuts. It’s not a classic, but it’s the only window that looks like it might offer a few clean ones. Everything else is a waiting game.

Rusty.

Read more