Swamis Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, folks, Rusty here again. Let’s talk about what we’ve got coming up at Swamis (beach and reef). This spot is exposed to swell from the west, and right now the water is sitting at 74°F, which is about 6°F warmer than the long-term average for this time of year – that’s seriously warm. The energy levels are mostly weak to moderate through the whole period, with only a couple of standout pulses.

To be honest, for the first week and a half, it’s pretty slim pickings. We’re looking at clean, glassy mornings with light west to west-southwest winds, but the swell is small – mostly 2 ft to 4 ft – and it’s coming from the south-southwest with a long period of 15 to 18 seconds. That long period means the waves will have some shape, but the size just isn’t there for much action. The combined swell energy is weak through this stretch, sitting between 164 and 742. The best of this early period might be Friday, August 14, with a 2 ft to 3 ft south-southwest groundswell and that light offshore breeze, but it’s still marginal. Saturday the 15th and Sunday the 16th are similar: small, clean, but just not enough push. The wind stays mostly offshore or light through the mornings, which is a positive, but the poor surf quality ratings tell the story.

Then we hit a bit of a lull. From Monday, August 17, through to Sunday, August 24, the swell drops even more – 2 ft to 3 ft – and the energy is weak (171 to 434). The wind is still OK, but it’s just not doing much. The 18th and 19th have a little more period, but still tiny. By the 20th, the wind swings a bit cross-onshore, and the waves get a little choppy. It’s a frustrating stretch where you’re just waiting.

Now, the real standout – and I mean *the* standout – is shaping up for Tuesday, August 25, and Wednesday, August 26. This is the one to circle. Tuesday morning we’ve got a 4 ft south swell with a 18-second period, and the combined energy jumps to 1308 – that’s moderate energy, finally. The wind is light and cross-onshore, but it’s still manageable. Then Tuesday afternoon, the swell builds to 7 ft from the south, period drops to 15 seconds, and the energy hits 2943. Wednesday morning it’s still solid at 6 ft from the south, 13-second period, energy 1869, and Wednesday afternoon we’re looking at 7 ft, 14-second period, energy 1571. That’s a couple of days of proper, solid south swell. The wind is cross-onshore through these days, which isn’t perfect, but it’s light enough that it’ll still be surfable. Keep in mind, that 7 ft is getting into bigger territory – not for beginners, but for the experienced crew, this is the best window in the whole 16 days. The long period and south direction are a good fit for this reef setup.

After that pulse, it fades. Thursday, August 27, sees 4 ft to 5 ft from the south-southwest, with lighter winds, but the energy is dropping (839). Friday the 28th is back to small, and Saturday the 29th gets a bit messy with a moderate cross-shore breeze and wind chop. Nothing to get excited about there.

So, if you’re planning a session, the clear winner is the August 25-26 window. The rest of the outlook is mostly small, with a few clean mornings but not enough wave. Keep an eye on that late August pulse – it’s the one that’s got some grunt.

Rusty.

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