Swamis Surf Forecast and Surf Report

G’day, Rusty here, and I’ve gotta be straight with you – the next 16 days at Swamis are a bit of a mixed bag, and honestly, there’s a whole lot of flat, poor-quality stuff to wade through before we get to anything worth paddling out for. The pattern starts with weak, barely-there waves, then a solid pulse of size pushes through late in the first week, but the wind is going to be a problem for most of it. Let’s break it down.

We kick off on Tuesday, 1 September, with tiny surf. The swell is 2.0ft from the SSW, period 13 seconds, but the combined energy is only 251 (weak) – it’s just not doing anything. The water temp is 76.6°, which is 8.6° warmer than usual for this time of year – that’s very unusual, like swimming in a bath. Wind is offshore from the W at 6 mph, but the wave comment says “poor surf conditions,” and the score is a zero. You’re better off having a coffee. Wednesday and Thursday are similar – still tiny, with heights around 1.6ft to 3.0ft, and even though the period gets long (16 seconds on Wednesday morning), there’s no energy to work with. The combined energy stays moderate at best (240 to 630), and the wind is onshore or cross-onshore, keeping things messy.

Now, Friday 4 September, we start to see a pulse. The swell bumps up to 3.6ft from the SW on Friday morning, with a 17-second period (very long period groundswell). The combined energy hits 715 (moderate). But it’s cross-onshore from the SSW at 9 mph, and the wave comment is still “poor.” Friday afternoon only gets a 1 out of 10 – marginal at best. This long-period swell is better suited for a point or reef, but Swamis is a beach and reef setup, so it might break a bit too straight. Saturday 5 September is the first real glimmer of hope. The swell builds to 4.3ft from the S on Saturday morning, period 14 seconds, and the combined energy jumps to 1209 (strong). The wind is offshore from the W at 6 mph – light and clean. The wave comment is “marginal,” but it scores a 2 out of 10. Saturday afternoon sees the swell hit 4.9ft from the S, period 14 seconds, and the combined energy is 1402 (strong). Wind stays offshore from the W at 6 mph. This is the best on offer in the first week – clean, offshore conditions, and decent size. But at 4.9ft, it’s getting too big for beginners, and the period is solid at 14 seconds, so expect good-shaped waves with longer lulls between sets. Crowds are “often” at Swamis, so expect company.

Sunday 6 September is the standout of the entire forecast. The swell jumps to 6.9ft from the S on Sunday morning, period 14 seconds, and the combined energy is 1828 (very strong). Wind is light from the WSW at 3 mph – almost glassy. This is a major positive: clean, light winds with a solid swell. The wave comment is “marginal,” but it scores a 3 out of 10. Sunday afternoon sees the swell peak at 7.5ft from the S, period 14 seconds, and the combined energy is 2174 (very strong). Wind goes cross-shore from the NNW at 6 mph, which is still light and manageable. At 7.5ft, this is expert territory – too big for beginners. The long period (14 seconds) means it’s a groundswell, and at a beach and reef break like Swamis, it might be a bit unruly, but with the wind so light, it’s going to be a proper session for the experienced crew. This is the best day on offer – if you’re an advanced surfer, you’ll be frothing.

Monday 7 September is massive but messy. The swell hits 9.8ft from the SSW on Monday morning, period 14 seconds, and the combined energy is 3154 (very strong). But the wind is cross-onshore from the WNW at 9 mph, snaking things up. The wave comment is “marginal,” but it scores a 3 out of 10. Monday afternoon sees the swell drop to 8.2ft from the SSW, but the wind picks up to 18 mph from the NW – fresh cross-onshore and lumpy.

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