Swamis Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Hey, Rusty here. I’m gonna be straight – this 16-day stretch at Swamis is a tough one to get excited about. We’ve got some decent sized swell early on, but the wind is almost always working against us. Clean, glassy conditions are pretty much non-existent for the first week. After that, it drops off into a long, flat spell. There’s a hint of something at the very tail end, but it’s far out and uncertain.

Let’s start with Sunday, September 6th. We see a solid 6ft S swell with a 14-second period – that’s real groundswell energy (1406 energy reading). The problem is a cross-on NNW breeze at 12 mph, so the surface will be choppy and ugly. Not the kind of day for smooth turns. The afternoon eases a bit to 5ft S, wind drops to 9 mph but stays cross-shore, so still a bumpy ride. Monday the 7th brings a 6ft SSW swell, still decent power (1041 energy), but that WNW wind is cross-onshore at 9-12 mph – more chop, and the afternoon session looks poor. Tuesday the 8th drops to 5ft SSW with onshore WNW wind. The energy is fading (821 energy), and conditions are just marginal.

From Wednesday the 9th through to Friday the 11th, swell size falls off a cliff – we’re looking at 2–3ft of SW swell. Wind is mostly light but cross-onshore, so you get those little wind ripples ruining the face. By Saturday the 12th and through to Monday the 14th, we’ve got 1–2ft of SW swell with energy dropping from 375 down to 247. That’s weak, barely rideable, and the wave comment calls it poor. There’s a real dry spell from about the 12th to the 16th where you’d be lucky to get a passable wave.

Now, Tuesday the 15th shows a slight pulse – energy climbs to 390 but the swell is still only 2ft and the wind is onshore. Just marginal. Wednesday the 16th and Thursday the 17th nudge up to 3ft SSW, energy at 491–552, but again the wind is onshore (W or WSW at 6 mph). Might have a bit of push but the face will be junk.

Your best shot, if you can wait, is right at the end. Friday the 18th and Saturday the 19th bring 2–3ft of SW swell with very long periods of 18–19 seconds (energy around 496–558). That long period gives it real shape and punch for its size – beach breaks might close out, but Swamis being a beach-and-reef, it could offer a decent wall. On Saturday afternoon the wind lightens to a 6 mph SW cross-onshore – not perfect, but the lightest wind we’ve seen for that kind of size. That’s your best window, but it’s over a week away, so don’t set your watch by it. Sunday the 20th and Monday the 21st linger with similar 3–3ft SW swell (energy up to 625) but the wind stays onshore. Promising, but far less reliable.

Overall, we do have waves – it’s not a total blank – but the quality is lacking for most of it. If you don’t mind a messy surface, the first couple of days have the most size. For the rest of us, the second week holds a glimmer of hope but it’s a long shot.

Rusty.

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