Swamis Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s shaping up at Swamis. This is a spot that’s fairly consistent and exposed to the south-west, so it needs a decent swell to get going with the right direction. We’re looking at a bit of a sluggish start, but there’s some potential further out.

The water is running at 73°, which is a massive 6° warmer than normal for this time of year. That’s very unusual – feels like a bath out there.

For the first few days, from Thursday the 16th through to the weekend, it’s pretty flat. The swell is tiny, at 2ft, and the wind is mostly cross or cross-onshore, making for a messy, chop-filled surface. Not worth paddling out. The energy is weak, with combined energy readings between 234 and 320, so don’t expect much.

We get a tiny bump on Saturday the 18th morning with 3ft from the SW, but the wind is still cross-onshore, and the wave comment is poor. It’s not until Sunday the 19th that we see some real size. The swell jumps to 6ft from the SSW early in the morning, with a moderate 14-second period and combined energy hitting 1481. That’s a solid, moderate energy swell. Problem is, the wind is cross-onshore, making it choppy and only a marginal option. The afternoon turns onshore, making it worse.

This onshore wind pattern sticks around for most of the following week. From Monday the 20th to Thursday the 23rd, the swell hangs between 3ft and 5ft from the SSW, but it’s mostly onshore wind from the west or west-south-west, with combined energy dropping from 996 down to 460. The wave comments are poor or marginal, so it’s a tough paddle for not much reward.

The next real window comes on Friday the 24th. The swell picks up to 5ft from the S, with a strong 13-second period and combined energy of 1458. The wind is cross-onshore but light, so it’s messy but offering some shape. Saturday the 25th gives similar conditions: 5ft from the SSW with light cross-onshore winds, and energy up at 1756. This is a moderate energy swell, but the wind is still not ideal. The wave comment is just marginal.

The standout of the whole outlook is Monday the 27th. The swell is 5ft from the SSW, with a very long 19-second period – that’s pure groundswell. Combined energy is 1503. The wind is light onshore in the morning, but by the afternoon it’s just a light breeze from the WSW. That’s about as clean as it’s going to get. The wave comment is the highest score of the period, a 3. This is the best bet. The long period will make for some nice, lined-up waves, though it might be a bit tricky at a beach-and-reef setup like this, tending to close out on the beach. But the energy is there, and the light wind is a major plus. Expect some crowds though – this is Swamis, after all.

Tuesday the 28th is similar but smaller, with 4ft from the SSW at 17 seconds, and light cross-onshore winds. Still a solid option. After that, the swell backs off quickly into the 3ft-3ft range with onshore winds, so the window closes.

So, the long and short of it: the first week is a write-off. The best action is from Friday the 24th through to Tuesday the 28th, with Monday the 27th being the real standout. It’s not a classic, but there are waves to be had if you’re patient.

Rusty.

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