Swamis Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let’s be straight with you. The next couple of weeks are looking grim. We’ve got a long, flat stretch of small, weak waves for the first week, and the one pulse of energy that shows up later isn't looking clean. Water temps are running about 72°F, which is a good 4°F warmer than average for this time of year – that’s a noticeable shift, you can probably leave the booties at home.

The first week is a total washout. From Monday the 17th through to Sunday the 23rd, we are looking at waves under 3 feet. There’s a bit of energy on Monday morning, the combined swell energy hits 408, but the wind is junk and the waves are messy. Tuesday brings a longer period swell of 16-17 seconds but no size behind it. The reports all point to “poor surf conditions” – it’s just bumpy, weak, and uninviting. There’s a slight bump on Wednesday and Sunday, but calling it “marginal” is being kind. You’ll be fighting the wind for any sort of shape. Don’t even bother waxing up.

The second week is more of the same. From Monday the 24th through to Friday the 28th, it’s tiny 2-foot waves with short periods. Energy readings are in the 200s and 300s, which is weak. There’s a slightly better period on Monday the 24th with 18 seconds, but the wave height is still pathetic. You’re better off going for a run.

But hold on, there's a hint of life. Saturday the 29th finally pushes the swell over the 3-foot mark, hitting 3 feet, and the energy jumps dramatically to 761 – that’s the biggest pulse of the entire period by far. It’s still got a cross-onshore wind messing it up, but there’s some real power in the water. This pulse carries into Sunday the 30th and Monday the 31st, with waves around 3 to 4 feet and energy in the 600s. Still, the calls are ‘marginal’ – the wind is just killing the quality. It has promise, but it’s not going to be glassy.

Swamis is the spot on the radar. It’s a beach and reef set-up that’s exposed and likes some west in the swell, which is what we’re getting. It’s fairly consistent, and on Saturday the 29th and Sunday the 30th, you might find something rideable. The swell direction is from the SSW, which is okay for it, but the cross-onshore wind will put a chop on the face. If it cleans up, there could be a few fun ones, but it’s more likely to be a wrestling match than a glide. The period is 15-17 seconds, which is a nice groundswell, but it can make a beach break like this a bit sectiony. This isn’t a classic, just the best of a bad lot.

After the 1st of September, the swell starts to back off again. There’s a glimmer of hope with this late-period push, but it’s a long way out. Forecasts can shift, so don’t write it off completely, but for the next 16 days, keep your expectations low. There’s no bomb swell on the horizon, just a lot of nothing with one brief pulse of average. It’s a good time to fix that ding.

Rusty.

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