Swamis Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a good look at what’s coming our way for the next stretch.

Right off the bat, we’re looking at a pretty quiet start. The first few days are all about small, weak surf with poor conditions. The swell is there, but it’s tiny – 3 ft at best – and the wind is mostly onshore or cross-onshore, making things a bit choppy and messy. The combined swell energy is moderate at best (399) but the quality just isn’t there. Water temp is 72°, which is much warmer than normal for this time of year (anomaly 5°), so at least you won’t need a thick wetsuit. But honestly, for the first few days, you’re better off waiting.

We’ve got a real dry spell here from Sunday the 12th right through to the middle of the week. There’s no standout surf at all until we hit Thursday the 16th, and even then, it’s small, short-period junk – 4 ft from the west with a period of only 8 seconds, so the wave shape is gonna be poor. That’s a gap of about four days with basically nothing worth paddling out for.

The real story starts to build from Saturday the 21st onwards. The swell picks up, and by Sunday the 22nd we’re seeing some better signs. Then on Monday the 24th, it starts to get serious. The standout is definitely Swamis on Wednesday the 24th. The morning shows 7 ft of swell from the south, with a period of 15 seconds – that’s a proper groundswell, long period, solid energy. The combined energy reads a whopping 2102, which is very strong. The wind is light offshore from the west, so the conditions are going to be clean and glassy. This is a big, powerful swell, likely too much for beginners, but for the experienced crew, this is going to be outstanding.

Just a heads-up: Swamis is an advanced spot and it’s often crowded, so expect some company. But with that kind of south swell and offshore wind, it’s going to be worth the battle. The direction is slightly off the optimum (SSW vs the preferred W), but the size and period make up for it.

The rest of the period has some smaller pulses, but nothing compares to that Wednesday. The following week, around Saturday the 26th, the swell drops back down and the wind turns cross-onshore, so it gets a bit messy again.

All in all, the best bet is to mark that Wednesday the 24th in your calendar. It’s a bit of a wait, but that day is the clear winner.

Rusty.

Read more