Swamis Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, this is Rusty. Let’s get into it.

So, we’re looking at a pretty drawn-out run of so-so conditions at Swamis for the next couple of weeks. Honestly, the first few days are a bit of a write-off – the northeast winds are just not doing us any favors, and the water's a weird 74°, which is about 7° warmer than normal for this time of year. Feels more like a bathtub than the Pacific. The swell is there, but it's messy.

The first real chance to get a wetsuit on without feeling like you’re fighting the wind is Thursday the 23rd. Swamis will see a 4ft SSW swell pushing in with a 13-second period, but the wind is a light cross-on from the southwest. It’s not clean, but it’s small and rideable if you’re patient. The combined energy is moderate (767), so it’s not pumping, but it’s not flat either.

Friday the 24th is interesting. A very long-period groundswell kicks in – 24 seconds from the SSW – but the actual swell height is tiny, only 2ft. That kind of period is a big deal; it’s got that deep-ocean energy, but at a point break like Swamis (beach and reef), it might just run straight through. The energy reading is strong (1083), but the size is small. Winds are light cross-on, so it’ll be clean, but you’ll be chasing little shoulders.

Saturday the 25th is similar: 3ft at 21 seconds from the SSW, with light onshore winds. The energy is still strong (1113), but again, it’s a whole lot of nothing in terms of size. Sunday the 26th brings a bit more size – 3ft to 4ft – but the period drops to 19 seconds, and the wind stays light cross-on. It’s a session for a log or a fish, not a shortboard.

The outlook from Monday the 27th through to the 30th is a bit of a blur: 4ft to 4ft SSW swell, moderate energy (around 1000-1200), but a persistent cross-onshore wind. It’s marginal. You might get a couple of corners, but it’s nothing to write home about.

Now, the real standout is the very end of the run. Friday the 31st of July. The swell jumps up to 6ft on the morning, and 7ft in the afternoon, from the S at 14-15 seconds. The combined energy skyrockets to 2950 in the afternoon – that’s strong. The wind is onshore from the west, so it’s going to be a bit lumpy, but for an experienced crew, this is the biggest swell of the window. That’s a solid 7ft of groundswell pushing in. It’s a long way out, so keep an eye on it, but if the wind cleans up, Swamis will be a beast.

The first day of August (Saturday) looks like a hangover from that, with 5ft to 6ft SSW swell, but lighter winds. After that, the whole thing drops off a cliff. From Sunday the 2nd of August, the wind cranks up to 12 mph from the SSW, creating a moderate cross-shore chop. The swell drops to 3ft and then 2ft, and the energy plunges to 430. Monday the 3rd is even worse: 4ft but with a short, weak 8-second period and 12 mph cross-shore wind. That’s a kite-surfing setup, not a paddle session. The whole second week of August is a dead loss.

So, the best bet is Friday the 31st of July. That’s your standout. Big, powerful S swell, but it’s for the experts. For everyone else, you’re looking at the 24th to the 26th for some long-period, mellow waves on the log.

Rusty.

Read more