Bunkers Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here. Let’s talk about what’s cooking at Bunkers.

First thing, the water temp is sitting at 57°, basically smack on average for this time of year. Nothing unusual there, so you’re not gonna need a thicker suit or anything.

Overall, the next 16 days are a bit of a mixed bag. We’ve got some windows of cleaner conditions and some fun-sized swell, but there’s also plenty of chop and cross-onshore wind to dodge. The best bets are all at Bunkers, so it’s not like you have to travel around. Let’s break it down.

We start with Tuesday the 15th. Morning’s looking the pick of that day with a 6ft swell from the NW and light offshore wind. It’s a bit on the shorter 8-second period, so it’s not packing a huge punch, but it’s rideable and clean. Wave energy is moderate (603). The afternoon goes downhill fast with 12 mph cross-on wind and messy conditions – leave that one alone.

Wednesday the 16th is similar – consistent 7ft NW swell in the morning, clean with light offshore wind. Again, short period (8 seconds), so not the world’s best shape, but it’s workable. The afternoon actually stays clean with the wind offshore. Both sessions are marginal, but the morning is your best crack.

Thursday the 17th gets a bit cross-shore, which puts a little chop on the face. Swell drops slightly to 6ft, still from the NW. Not terrible, but not great either – a low-score day.

Friday the 18th and Saturday the 19th see a big drop in swell size down to 2ft – 3ft, and it switches to a long-period (18-19 seconds) SW groundswell. That long period means better shape potential, but with that tiny size and mostly cross-on or onshore wind, it’s not going to be worth paddling out. Energy stays moderate (453-680), but it’s just too small and choppy.

Sunday the 20th is similar – small, messy, and not worth getting wet for, especially with the afternoon turning into a 12 mph cross-on mess.

Now, here’s where it gets interesting. Monday the 21st kicks off a run of much bigger swell. We’re looking at 8ft from the NNW in the morning, jumping to 10ft by the afternoon. This is expert territory. The catch? Wind is cross-on, 9-15 mph, making it choppy and borderline out of control. Wave energy ramps up to strong levels (1180-1922). This is more of a kite-surfing day than a clean paddle session.

Tuesday the 22nd stays big and messy – 10ft and then 8ft, with strong wind and chop. Energy is very strong (2067-2278). Not a day to fight the crowd for a closeout.

Wednesday the 23rd is the first real standout. Morning still has some cross-on wind with 8ft swell, but the afternoon? Absolute glass. The wind drops to 3 mph and is NNE – glassy. Swell holds at 8ft from the NW with a 9-second period, and energy is strong (1126). This is excellent surf for experienced surfers. Clean, powerful, and consistent. Crowds are sometimes an issue here, so if you can get out, you’ll have a good time.

Thursday the 24th fades a bit – 6ft, dropping to 4ft. The longer-period WNW swell in the afternoon (10 seconds) offers a bit more shape, but wind is light cross-on. Not a standout.

Friday the 25th – wow. The afternoon is where it’s at. 13ft of NNW swell with absolutely glassy conditions. This is the biggest, cleanest swell of the whole 16 days for experts. Wave energy is very strong (2823). If you’re experienced, this is the one you circle on the calendar. The morning is still big (12ft) and rideable, but the afternoon is clean perfection.

Saturday the 26th still has good size (10ft dropping to 8ft) but the wind is cross or cross-on, so it loses that pristine quality. Still decent for capable surfers.

From Sunday the 27th onward, it’s a steady drop in size and quality winding down into the 30th, with small (2ft-4ft), short-period NW or long-period SW swells, mostly blown out or just marginal. Not worth the effort.

So, bottom line: the two true standouts are Wednesday 23rd afternoon and Friday 25th afternoon. Both have big clean swell and glassy wind. Crowds can be a thing at Bunkers, so hit the glassy sessions and you’ll score.

Rusty.

Read more