Bunkers Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s talk about what’s on offer at Bunkers.

First up, the water temp is sitting about average for this time of year, nothing too wild. The big picture though? Honestly, it’s a pretty frustrating run. We’ve got some size coming, but the wind and conditions are going to fight us almost every step of the way. For a beginner-friendly spot, the swell is often either too short-period or too messy to really call it a good day out.

The first real chance to get wet doesn’t come until Sunday, September 8th, in the morning. Swell is 5 ft from the NW, but with a short period of just 7 seconds. That’s weak, disorganized energy (combined energy 378), and it’s only rated as marginal. You’ll be scratching for something worth paddling for.

We then drift through the next few days with similar marginal stuff – small, short-period NW swells and cross-onshore winds. Wednesday, September 11th, the swell bumps up to 5 ft from the NNW (8 sec period, combined energy 631), but the morning wind is light and offshore from the NW. That’s your best window in this first week: cleanish conditions on a building swell.

Now, here’s the standout, but it comes with a big caveat. Friday, September 13th morning: the swell jumps to a solid 10 ft from the NNW. That’s a lot of water moving (combined energy 1597). But with a period of only 8 seconds, it’s going to be a lumpy, powerful close-out at a beach break. The wind is light and offshore in the morning (NNW, 10 km/h), so it’ll look clean from the beach, but 10 ft is expert territory only. This setup looks more interesting for kite surfing than paddle surfing, honestly. The afternoon gets messy with stronger cross-onshore wind, so if you’re an expert, hit that early window on Friday the 13th.

After that peak, we’ve got a couple of days with 8 ft to 7 ft NW swell, but the wind is a constant issue – mostly cross-onshore and choppy. Saturday the 14th morning has offshore wind and 8 ft (9 sec period, combined energy 1292), which is the second-best window, but still big and punchy for a beginner spot.

Then, from around Monday the 16th onwards, the swell drops right off. We’re looking at a long gap of tiny, weak waves (1 ft to 2 ft) with long periods from the SW – classic groundswell that will just straighten out on a beach. The wind stays a nuisance. There’s a brief flicker of hope on Saturday, September 21st, with a 3 ft SW groundswell and a morning offshore wind, but it’s still small and marginal. The truth is, after the first ten days, it’s a blank run of poor to marginal conditions all the way to the end of the forecast.

Bottom line: the only real, punchy surf is that Friday the 13th morning, and that’s for experts only. The Saturday morning after is the next best bet for stronger surfers. Everyone else, it’s a long wait.

Rusty.

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