Bunkers Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, grab your board and let’s talk waves. It’s a bit of a slow grind for the next week or so, but there’s some promise on the horizon if you’re willing to wait. The swells are coming in, but the quality is pretty marginal for a while, so don’t get too excited just yet.

The first week is a real patience test. Saturday the 15th and Sunday the 16th, we’re looking at some knee-to-waist high leftovers, around 2ft to 3ft from the SSW. It’s weak, with the swell energy down in the five-hundreds, and the winds are mostly cross-on or cross-off, so it’s going to be pretty average at best. We’re talking about a light cross-onshore breeze messing with the surface on the Saturday afternoon. This is a beginner-only zone, so if you’re just starting out, it might be okay, but for anyone else, it’s not worth the paddle.

Monday the 17th and Tuesday the 18th are looking pretty poor, with the swell dropping a touch and the energy dipping down to the four hundreds. Tuesday morning has some clean conditions with the light offshore, but the swell is just too small and weak. We’re getting into that “poor surf conditions” territory, so I’d probably save the energy.

Then things get a bit more interesting. On Wednesday the 19th, there’s a bump in size during the morning, with swell hitting 6ft from the NNW. But, it’s short-period windswell at 7 seconds, which means it’s going to be a bit jumbled and fairly choppy with that cross-onshore wind. The energy jumps up to 787, which is moderate, but the quality just isn’t there. It’s still a marginal call.

The rest of that week stays pretty weak and messy through the 22nd, with winds being cross-onshore and the swell not doing much.

The weekend of the 23rd and 24th brings a bit more size. We’re looking at 7ft from the NNW on Sunday the 23rd, but it’s still short-period (8 seconds) and the wind will be light offshore in the morning, which will help. The energy reads as 807, which is moderate. It’s still a bit of a beast, and might be pushing it for the beginners—anything over 5ft is getting less user friendly. The 24th holds similar size, around 6ft, still short-period and with the morning offshore giving a cleaner window.

From the 25th to the 26th, we see the swell hold around 6ft to 6ft, but the winds get stronger, especially in the afternoons, turning it choppy. The mornings with the light offshore wind are the only real windows, but it’s still windswell.

Now, the real standout of this whole period is at the end. On Thursday the 27th, we get a pulse of proper groundswell. The swell drops to a more modest 3ft to 3ft, but look at the source: it’s from the S with a period of 16-17 seconds. That is a long-period, quality groundswell. The combined energy reads at 978 in the morning and jumps to 1062 in the afternoon, which is strong energy for the size. The winds are light and offshore in the morning, with a light cross-on in the afternoon. This is the cleanest, best-shaped surf of the whole outlook. It’s a slow, powerful wave that’s perfect for this exposed break. This is the one to circle on the calendar.

Following that, the 28th and 29th see the swell switch back to a more disorganised NNW windswell, with size around 7ft to 6ft, but the period drops back down and the quality suffers.

The final day of the window, Sunday the 30th, has some size – 8ft from the NNW – and the energy is pumping at 1241, which is strong. But, it’s short-period and the winds will be up in the afternoon, making it a full-on, challenging session. That’s expert-only territory.

So there you have it. A week of mediocrity, a couple of days of short-period punch, and then that Thursday the 27th is the gem. It’s promising, but a little far out, so we’ll have to see how it holds up. Be patient.

Rusty.

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