Bunkers Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, this is Rusty. Let's take a look at what's on the table for the next couple of weeks.

First up, the overall pattern. We’re looking at a pretty drawn-out run of marginal surf here, with a lot of iffy conditions. The first week is mostly small, with a few moments of hope, but the real standout doesn't show up until Thursday, the 3rd of September.

Let's start with the first surfable slot. It’s Saturday morning, the 29th of August. We’ve got a 3ft swell from the SSW, with a long period of 18 seconds. The wind is light and from the NNW, which is onshore, but light enough to keep things clean. The energy is moderate, hitting 686. The water temp is 57°, which is about what you'd expect for this time of year. It’s a beginner-friendly break, and it is fairly consistent, but it’s only a 2/5 rated spot. You might get a few, but it's not going to be epic.

Sunday morning, the 30th, is a similar story: 3ft SSW swell, still that long 16-second period, with light NNW winds. The energy is climbing to 933. Still, the forecast is marginal.

The real standout, the one to circle on your calendar, is Thursday morning, the 3rd of September. The wind goes totally glassy, calm as can be, and the water will be like a mirror. The swell is a clean 3ft from the SW, with a stellar 18-second period. The energy is pumping at 1125. This is about as good as it gets for a small, clean day. For experienced surfers, this is a gem. The wave quality is excellent, just make sure you're not looking for a big one. This is about finesse and a longboard.

After that, the rest of the first week and into the second week is a bit of a washout. The wind picks up from the north, and the conditions get choppy. There’s a pulse of 6ft NW swell on Thursday afternoon, but the cross-onshore wind ruins it. There’s a lot of days with that cross-on breeze, which makes for messy faces.

Then, we get a bigger pulse. On Wednesday morning, the 9th of September, we see a 7ft swell from the NW, with a 12-second period. The energy is massive at 1657. This is a big wave, and a bit too much for beginners. It's a 2/5 rated spot, but with that size and a light onshore wind, it's marginal. The following morning, Thursday the 10th, has a smaller 5ft NW swell, still with strong energy, but the direction is all wrong for Bunkers, which wants the wind from the W. This is buried in the record, but the swell direction is coming from the NW, which is not the optimum.

The 16-day window wraps up with a tiny, glassy session on Sunday afternoon, the 13th of September. A 2ft SW swell, with an 18-second period, and glassy wind from the NNE. The energy is a weak 218. It’s a small, clean close-out to the run.

The best bet of the whole period is hands down Thursday morning, September 3rd. That glassy, 3ft, 18-second SSW groundswell with 1125 energy is the one to get out for. It’s a small, clean, perfect morning. The rest of the window is a game of patience, waiting for those clean windows.

Rusty.

Read more