Trestraou Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s shaping up for Trestraou over the next couple of weeks.

To be straight with you, the start of this forecast is a bit of a write-off. For the first few days, we’ve got wind and swell working against us. The water is sitting at 66°F which is a touch warmer than normal for this time of year, but that’s about the only thing that’s comfortable.

Friday the 28th and Saturday the 29th are a no-go. On Friday we’ve got a weak 2ft to 3ft swell from the west with a short period of 7 seconds and a cross-off wind that’s just not lining up right. The energy is low (102) and the surf is poor. Saturday gets worse – the swell bumps up to 5ft but the wind is cranking at 25 mph, then by Saturday afternoon it jumps to 12ft with a 31 mph near gale. That’s big, but it’s messy and only for the brave or the foolish.

Sunday the 30th shows a little pulse. The morning has a 5ft west swell, 9-second period, and finally the wind goes offshore from the SW at 12 mph. The energy is moderate (390) and the conditions are described as “surfable but very ordinary.” It’s clean, but it’s not going to be a classic. Still, if you’re desperate, the morning session might give you a few.

Monday the 31st sees the swell jump again to 8ft with a 10-second period, but the wind is cross-off at 19 mph, and the energy is strong (1207). The surf is described as marginal, so it’s big and powerful, but not well-shaped. That’s expert territory if you’re keen.

Now, the standout window. Saturday, September 5th, morning. That’s the one to circle. We’ve got a 5ft swell from the WNW, a 11-second period, and the wind is light from the west at 6 mph, going cross-off. The energy is moderate (563) and the conditions are flagged as “expect good surf.” The water temperature anomaly is consistent so it’s still a touch warmer than normal. This is a clean, well-ordered groundswell. The longer period will give you good shape and the wind will keep it glassy. This is the best on offer – small, clean, and fun. Crowds are possible here, so be early.

The rest of the first week and into the second is a mixed bag. Thursday September 4th has a longer period (13 seconds) but the wind is messy and the surf is marginal. By Sunday the 6th, the wind swings onshore and the swell drops off. The period from the 7th to the 12th is mostly small, weak, and wind-affected, with energy readings dropping into the double digits. There’s a weird pulse late on the 12th with a 2ft swell from the west and a very long 17-second period, but the wind is strong and the energy is low (289). It’s a tease more than anything.

So, bottom line: hold out for the morning of Saturday September 5th. That’s your cleanest, most promising window. The rest is either blown out, too big, or too small.

Rusty.

Read more