Trestraou Surf Forecast and Surf Report

G’day, it’s Rusty.

Let’s get down to it. For Trestraou over the next 16 days, there’s a bit of size coming, but the conditions are going to be the real test. The first proper surf arrives this Sunday, the 30th, with a 5ft swell from the west at 9 seconds. The energy is moderate at 371, and the water’s sitting at 19°, which is a touch warmer than average for this time of year. The wind is a moderate offshore from the SW, so it’ll be clean, but it’s pretty ordinary stuff. You can surf it, but it’s nothing to write home about.

Sunday afternoon holds at 5ft but the wind swings to a fresh WSW cross-off, keeping it clean but still not firing.

Now Monday the 31st is where the size kicks in, but so does the mess. The swell jumps to 8ft from the WNW with a 10-second period. The energy is strong, hitting 1194. But the morning wind is a fresh WNW cross, creating lumpy cross-chop. This is well into the too-big-for-beginners range, and quality will be suffering. The afternoon drops to 8ft but it’s still cross-shore chop. I’d say this is more of a day to watch from the beach.

We get a bit of a lull into Tuesday the 1st, with 4ft on the morning and a gentle WSW cross-off wind. It’s clean but weak. The energy is only 281. Wednesday the 2nd and Thursday the 3rd are small and pretty much a write-off – the swell drops to under 5ft, and the wind, while offshore, isn't doing us any favors. The energy is weak and the surf is poor.

Here’s the real standout of the whole window: Friday the 4th of September. The swell builds through the day, hitting 7ft in the morning and then 8ft by the afternoon, out of the WNW with a long-period 11-12 second swell. The energy is strong, over 1500. This is a proper groundswell. The catch is the wind. It’s a moderate cross-shore, which will put some texture on it. For a beach setup like Trestraou, a long-period WNW swell might break a little too straight, so keep your expectations in check. But this is the biggest, most powerful surf of the period. It’s for experts only.

After that, the plug gets pulled. Saturday the 5th has 7ft but the wind goes onshore from the north, making it poor. From the 6th through the 14th of September, it’s a long, bleak stretch. The swell drops away to under 5ft, and the wind is mostly onshore or cross-onshore from the north and east. There are a few clean windows with southeast winds on the 6th, but the swell is tiny (3ft). The energy drops to double digits and the surf is all poor. This is a dead period, a real gap in the action. There’s nothing to get excited about.

So, to sum it up: your best bet is Friday the 4th, but it’s not perfect. If you’re a confident surfer, that’s the one to point for. Otherwise, this stretch looks pretty bleak for paddling. If the wind stays strong out of the ENE later on, it might be more interesting for the kite crew than us.

Keep an eye on it, but don’t hold your breath.

Rusty.

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