The Left Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s get into it. We’ve got one spot on the radar for this whole stretch, and it’s a classic point break that’s going to see some serious action.

We’re looking at a run that kicks off this Sunday, September 13th, with solid, clean surf on offer. The water temp is sittin’ right where it should be for this time of year, nothing unusual there. The Left is a point break that’s fairly consistent and exposed to the north-west, so it needs the right angle. The optimum direction is a true north-west, which is exactly what we’ll be seeing for the best sessions.

Sunday morning starts things off with a clean 7ft swell out of the WNW, with a period of 11 seconds. That’s a proper groundswell with good energy behind it (combined energy at 1050), and a light cross-off wind from the WSW. This is gonna be clean and lined up – excellent for any experienced surfer out there. That afternoon glass-off is a beauty too: 6ft, glassy wind from the WNW, and the energy drops a bit (723), but the quality will be high.

Monday, the 14th, sees the swell dip but the wind turns offshore from the south. We’re looking at a smaller 3ft to 4ft swell with a long 12-second period, making for clean, fun waves, especially in the morning. It’s gentle offshore and clean – a great day for a longer board or a step-up in performance.

Now, here’s the thing. Tuesday through Thursday (the 15th to the 17th) are a write-off. Strong winds and messy, lumpy conditions. The swell is there, but it’s blown out. Don’t bother.

Then, hold onto your board. Friday, September 18th, we get a pulse. A 13ft swell from the WNW with a 14-second period. The combined energy jumps to 5756 – that’s strong. The wind is cross-off, so it’ll be clean, but this is getting into the “experts only” zone. Saturday the 19th is similar, with 10ft to 12ft and strong cross-off winds. Still clean, but powerful.

The standout. Without a doubt, Sunday, September 20th. That morning shows a 16ft WNW swell with a very long 15-second period. Combined energy is a massive 10279. The wind is a fresh cross-off from the WSW. This is big, clean, powerful point-break surf. It will be a heavy, grinding wall. This is for experts only. The afternoon gets even better for wind, shifting to a fresh offshore from the SSE, with a 13ft swell. This is the pick of the entire run, but you need to know what you’re doing.

Monday the 21st is a no-go. A massive 18ft to 21ft swell gets slammed by gale-force cross-shore winds. That’s a washing machine, not a surf break. Tuesday the 22nd backs off to 10ft to 13ft with clean cross-off winds, a good day for the brave.

Wednesday, September 23rd is a special kind of big. The data says 23ft to 25ft with a 13 to 15-second period. The energy numbers are insane (17034 and 23545). The notes say the swell is predicted to be too big for this break. That’s a hard pass for paddle surfing – unless you’re a tow crew. Honestly, that setup looks more interesting for kite surfing than paddle surfing.

The end of the run, from the 24th to the 28th, is mixed. Clean, big waves on the 24th (16ft to 18ft) with good wind. Then it gets messy with strong winds and lumpy chop from the 25th onwards. The 28th offers a final 8ft NNE swell, but with a light cross-on wind, so the quality is marginal.

So, the best on offer? Sunday, September 20th is the absolute standout. The combination of size, that 15-second period, and the offshore-to-cross-off wind is a rare treat. Friday the 18th and Saturday the 19th are also excellent for the strong-of-heart. Keep your eyes on the horizon.

Rusty.

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