The Left Surf Forecast and Surf Report

G’day, I’m Rusty, and here’s how it’s looking for The Left, now in feet and miles.

Alright, we’ve got a slow burn to start for this classic point break, but the second week has some real thunder, especially for the experienced crew. Let’s get into it.

The Left. The first bit of surf that’s worth a mention is Monday, August 24th, but don’t get your hopes up. We’re looking at a 7 ft WNW swell with an 11-second period in the morning, dropping to 6 ft in the afternoon. Combined swell energy is 933 in the morning, easing to 764. The wind is a cross-off from the SE at 9 to 12 mph. It’s clean enough, but the report calls it marginal with questionable tide. It’s more of a leg-burner than a wave of the day. Tuesday the 25th and Wednesday the 26th are total washouts, with the swell fading out and poor conditions.

We get a little peek on Thursday the 27th morning. A 2 ft W swell at 10 seconds, only 91 combined energy, and a light offshore wind from the S at 9 mph. It’s clean but tiny. The report says surfable but very ordinary. You’d be on a log if you went out. Friday and Saturday the 29th and 30th have some size (8 ft on Saturday), but the wind is messy with cross and cross-off lines. The current water temp is about average for this time of year.

Now, the best bet in the first week is Sunday the 30th morning. That swell is still a solid 8 ft from the N, but the key is glassy conditions with a 3 mph S wind. Combined energy is 873. The forecast says “expect very good surf conditions.” For a point break like The Left, an 8 ft N swell with a glassy surface is a treat. The period is a short 8 seconds, so it won’t be the most lined-up thing, but it’ll be punchy and fun. Watch the tide. This is the only real highlight in the first 9 days.

Then it goes quiet again. Monday and Tuesday are poor with onshore and cross winds, and the swell drops.

Now the real magic is in the second week, and it’s impressive for the brave souls. There is a big gap of several days with no solid recommendations before this, so hang tight.

Thursday, September 3rd, we see things improve. Morning brings a 5 ft W swell at 8 seconds, with a light cross-off from the WSW at 6 mph. Combined energy is 330. The forecast says “expect good surf conditions.” The afternoon builds to 6 ft WNW with a 6-second period, still clean. That’s a solid, fun day for intermediate types.

Friday, September 4th, the swell jumps. Morning has 8 ft WNW at 8 seconds, combined energy 685, but the wind is a light cross-on from the NW. The afternoon gets bigger: 8 ft NW at 9 seconds, and the combined energy spikes to 1257. It’s marginal on the tide but a strong pulse. This one will be hefty and a bit lumpy.

But the real standout? Sunday, September 6th morning. A tiny 2 ft swell? Wrong – look at the period: 20 seconds! That’s a very long period groundswell from the WNW. Combined energy is 620, and it’s clean with a cross-off from the SE at 9 mph. A point break like The Left is built for this. It’ll be smooth, powerful lines with long lulls. Expect very good surf conditions.

Then Monday, September 7th. This is the big one. Morning: 10 ft W swell at 15 seconds, with a gentle offshore from the SSE at 9 mph. Combined energy? A massive 3734. The afternoon is the same size, 10 ft W at 14 seconds, with energy at 4131. The report says “excellent surf conditions for experienced surfers.” This is huge, ground, and clean. Over 8 ft, it’s for experts only. A very long period on a point break means serious speed and power. Crowds are possible, but with this size, only the hardcore will be out.

Tuesday, September 8th, we have 8 ft W at 12 seconds, but the wind goes cross from the WNW, bringing some chop. Still solid, but the window closes.

So to sum it up: don’t bother paddling out until Sunday the 30th morning for a glassy session around 8 ft. The true standouts are Sunday September 6th with a ridiculous long-period groundswell and clean conditions, and Monday September 7th for the big, expert-level, offshore perfection. That Monday is the one to save for.

Stay stoked,
Rusty

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