The Left Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Wednesday morning looks a bit average right now—a cross-onshore breeze chopping up The Left (point) with knee-high 4ft waves from the west. Not much to get excited about. But Wednesday afternoon shapes up nicely as the wind swings cross-off, and those 4ft waves clean right up. It’s a soft start, but the energy’s building underneath.

Thursday’s when it gets real. A fresh offshore SSW wind hits the 8ft west swell early, and though the tide might be iffy, there’s real push in the water. Thursday afternoon bumps up to 13ft with a strong cross-off breeze—still clean but rough around the edges. That’s heavy stuff. Friday morning is the standout of the early stretch: 16ft from the WNW, 13 seconds of period, solid but not maxed energy (8972), and a clean cross-off. It’s big, though—expert territory, no two ways about it.

Saturday gets messy. Strong cross-off winds but the quality nose-dives, and by Sunday we’ve got 16ft plus near gale cross-shore winds—that’s a complete blown-out mess. Forget paddling, that’s kite-surfing if anything. The swell’s there but it’s not rideable.

Monday, September 21st, brings it back to human scale. Swell drops to 7ft, glassy clean with a gentle cross-off breeze, and conditions are proper for experienced surfers. That’s a nice reset. Tuesday morning holds similar, but the afternoon goes soft with a weird 17-second pulse mixing in—long period, but sloppy.

Wednesday the 23rd is another gem: 8ft from the west, 13 seconds, light offshore from the ESE, clean. Excellent for those with a bit of skill. That one’s worth circling on the calendar.

Then we hit a lull from the 24th through the 26th. Smaller waves, some rain showers, mostly junk—though the 26th morning surprises with 7ft from the north, glassy, calm, and smooth. Nice little window there. The 25th morning is a monster though—16ft WNW, 12 seconds, exceptional conditions for experts only, with light offshore winds. That’s a big, clean, powerful day—best of the whole run if you’ve got the nerve.

After that, the 27th fades to 3ft, and then it’s pretty much flat from the 28th through October 1st. Small waves, onshore winds, and eventually nothing more than thigh-high slop. A real blank stretch.

Water’s about average for this time of year at The Left, so you don’t need a thick suit yet, just a decent one.

So here’s the deal: if you’ve got the skills, Friday morning the 18th and the 25th morning are the big ones—but they’re serious. For most of us, Monday the 21st and Wednesday the 23rd are the sweet spots. Don’t sleep on that 26th morning glass, either.

Rusty

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