The Island Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Hey, Rusty here, checking the charts for The Island over the next couple weeks. It’s a slow start, but there’s a couple real gems hiding in there if you’re willing to wait.

We kick off on Monday, August 31st with a solid 6ft SW groundswell, long 19-second period, and a solid 20 mph cross-off breeze from the NNE. The wave energy is reading 2175 (moderate), but there’s some funky tide stuff going on. It’s clean, but not the best of the run.

Tuesday the 1st and Wednesday the 2nd are total washouts with strong winds and cruddy conditions. Don’t bother.

Thursday the 3rd is still messy with a 6ft swell but onshore wind. Friday the 4th morning cleans up a bit with a 7ft SW swell and a NE cross-off wind at 20 mph, but the score is low. It’s a session for the die-hards.

Your first real green light is Sunday, September 6th in the afternoon. The wind goes glassy light from the ENE, the swell is a manageable 5ft with a 14-second period, combined energy at 890 (weak wave energy), and it’s labeled “expect very good surf conditions.” That’s your first proper go.

Now, the big one. Wednesday, September 9th morning. This is the standout of the whole forecast. We’ve got a strong 8ft SW groundswell with a long, powerful 19-second period. The combined energy is pumping at 4885 (strong wave energy). The wind is pure offshore from the ESE at just 6 mph, glassy clean. The data calls it “excellent surf conditions for experienced surfers,” and for a reef like The Island, 8ft is serious. This is your day if you’ve got the skills. It’s a long-period groundswell, so expect big gaps between sets, but the waves will have power and shape.

Thursday the 10th is still okay with a 7ft SW swell and cross-off wind, but not as good as Wednesday.

Looking further out, Sunday, September 13th morning shows promise. A 7ft SW swell with an 18-second period, combined energy at 2997 (moderate wave energy), and light offshore wind from the E at 3 mph. It’s labeled as “excellent surf conditions for experienced surfers.” That’s a long-range possibility, so don’t bank on it, but keep it in mind.

The rest of the second week is mostly marginal with onshore winds and strong westerlies blowing things out, like Monday the 14th afternoon with 8ft and 25 mph winds. That’s a mess.

So, the absolute pick is Wednesday, September 9th morning. Sunday the 13th morning is your promising long-shot.

Water temp is about normal for this time of year, nothing unusual.

This whole run is groundswell-driven with very long periods. The Island is a reef, so it can handle it, but you’ll be waiting for sets. Worth it on those good days.

Rusty.

Read more