Spot x Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, it’s Rusty here. Let’s get into it. We’ve got a wild 16-day stretch coming up for Spot X, but don’t grab your board just yet because the first good session is a long way off.

Right now, we’re looking at a massive, angry ocean. A big WSW swell hits on Thursday the 6th, with a 13ft swell and a huge 9060 (combined energy) – that’s serious power. But the wind is howling from the W at 22 mph, and it’s onshore. The water is sitting at 68°F which is 4°F warmer than usual, so it’s much warmer than normal for this time of year, but you won’t be enjoying it because the surf is a complete mess. This continues through Friday and Saturday, with the swell pumping up to 21ft and even 26ft, and the wind staying strong and cross-onshore. The wave energy is through the roof, with readings like 19014 and 66084, but it’s all blown out and chaotic. This is not paddle surfing – this is a full-on, expert-only, heavy-water situation. Honestly, for a few days there, it looks more suited to a kite surfer than a surfer.

There’s a gap of poor conditions until we get a little window. On Thursday the 13th afternoon, the swell drops to 13ft from the SW, with a period of 17 seconds (very long period groundswell). The wind is light from the SW, but it’s cross-onshore, creating small wind ripples. It’s marginal, but you could get a few clean ones if you’re patient.

The real standout, and the one you’ve been waiting for, is Friday the 14th. The morning will be exceptional for expert surfers. The swell is 12ft from the SW, with a 16-second period, and the wind is from the NE at 12 mph – that’s offshore! The water will be glassy and clean. The combined energy is 5583, which is moderate, but with that offshore wind and long-period groundswell, the reef at Spot X will hold up beautifully. This is a true highlight. The afternoon is also excellent for experienced surfers, with a 10ft swell and clean conditions.

After that, we get a few more days of fun, but nothing that matches Friday. Saturday the 15th and Sunday the 16th offer 8ft to 12ft swells, but the wind shifts and it gets a bit more cross-shore. The week after, on Monday the 17th, we see another pulse of 15ft to 16ft swell from the W and WSW, with moderate offshore winds, giving another clean session with solid energy at 10309 and 11720. It’s marginal but clean.

The final week then gets messy again. The wind picks up, the swell stays big, and it’s onshore or cross-shore, washing out the quality. The last flicker of hope comes on Friday the 21st with an 12ft SW swell (16 seconds) and a cross-shore wind, but it’s still marginal.

So, the bottom line: If you only surf one day, make it Friday August 14th. That’s the pick of the two weeks. The rest is either a blown-out mess or just average. Stay safe out there.

Rusty.

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