Spot x Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here. Let’s talk about Spot X.

We’ve got a massive, extended run of groundswell headed our way, no doubt about it. The ocean is going to be pumping with serious energy for the next couple of weeks, but the wind is going to be our biggest enemy for a lot of it. This isn’t a beginner’s game; most of this is for the crew who have earned their scars.

The water is sitting at 67° – a touch warmer than normal for this time of year, which is a nice little bonus on those early morning sessions.

It kicks off proper on Thursday afternoon, the 13th of August. We’re looking at a solid 13ft SW groundswell, with a very long 17-second period. The combined swell energy is a massive 8781, so there’s plenty of punch. The wind is a light cross-on from the SSW at 6 mph, which will put a bit of texture on the face. It’s not glassy, but it’s rideable for the experienced crowd.

Friday the 14th is a standout. The morning session sees a 12ft SW swell (16 seconds) with a clean, cross-off breeze from the NE at 9 mph. The swell energy is still huge at 5535. Then, Friday afternoon is the cream of the crop: the wind goes glassy, absolute zero from the NW at 3 mph. The swell drops a touch to 10ft from the SW with a 15-second period (4235 energy), but it will be perfect, lined-up reef waves. This is the one to circle.

Saturday the 15th stays solid – 8ft to 8ft WSW swell – but the wind picks up. Saturday morning has a moderate cross-off at 16 mph, which is clean but a bit blustery. Afternoon calms down to a light cross-off. It’s still good, but not quite the magic of Friday.

Sunday the 16th is similar, with 10ft WSW swell but moderate 16-12 mph winds keeping it a bit raw.

Then Monday the 17th we hit a wall. The swell jumps to 13ft, then 15ft, with energy readings peaking at 16735. That’s severe. Couple that with a near-gale cross-shore wind on Monday morning (31 mph from the NW) and full-on onshore wind on Monday afternoon (28 mph). This is a no-go for surfing. The setup looks more interesting for kite surfing than paddle surfing. This heavy, blown-out, oversized slop continues through Tuesday, Wednesday, and into Thursday the 20th.

We get a brief window on Friday the 21st of August. The morning session is another standout: a 13ft WSW swell with a 14-second period, but the wind is glassy again from the SW. Clean, raw power. But the afternoon turns onshore.

The following week is a classic winter grind. We’ve got persistent swell – 10ft to 15ft from the WSW – but the wind is mostly onshore or strong cross-onshore. Sunday the 23rd afternoon offers a glimmer: a 13ft WSW swell (16 seconds, 9026 energy) with a moderate cross-off breeze. It’ll be clean and powerful.

Monday the 24th and Tuesday the 25th are gale-force and blown out. Wall-to-wall whitewater. Thursday the 27th has a huge 15ft swell (17 seconds, 13120 energy) but with fresh cross-shore winds, making it a lumpy, challenging beast for experts only.

If you’re looking for the absolute best on offer, Friday afternoon, August 14th is the one. 10ft SW groundswell with glassy conditions at Spot X. Long-period groundswell like this loves a reef setup. Expect it to be clean, powerful, and the crowd will likely be there because it’s that good. The secondary pick is the glassy morning of Friday, August 21st, for a raw 13ft day.

Rusty.

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