Spot x Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Righto, let’s have a look at what’s coming down the pipe for Spot x (reef). This break is exposed to the swell, very consistent, and it likes a swell from the WSW. The water temperature is sitting at 66°, which is a touch warmer than what we’d usually expect for this time of year – nothing crazy, but your wettie might feel a bit more comfortable than usual.

Honestly, the start of this period is a write-off. We’ve got a big, powerful groundswell rolling in from the SW, but the wind is just terrible – cross-on and howling. Friday and Saturday the 31st of July and the 1st of August are a total mess. The swell is big, 10ft to 15ft, and the energy is pumping (combined energy of 5266 to 9249), but it’s lumpy, choppy, and the wind is ruining it. Don’t even bother.

Now, there’s a glimmer on Sunday morning, August 2nd. The wind goes offshore from the NE, and we’ve got a clean 10ft SW swell rolling in with a period of 13 seconds. The energy is still strong (3527), but the wind is good, and the conditions are described as excellent for experienced surfers. This is a proper standout – but be warned, 10ft is big, so this is not for beginners. It’s for the crew who know what they’re doing. The afternoon goes glassy, so it’ll stay clean, but the swell eases a touch.

Monday morning, August 3rd, is a real treat. The wind goes glassy, the swell drops to a more manageable 6ft from the WSW, with a period of 15 seconds – that’s proper groundswell. The energy is moderate (1572), but the conditions will be clean as a whistle. This is a great session for intermediates, but keep in mind that long-period swell can peel a bit straight on a reef, so watch your line.

After that, things get messy again. The wind goes onshore or cross-on for most of the next week, and the swell stays big. August 4th has a huge 12ft swell with a 17-second period, but the wind is on it, making it a bit of a grunt. There’s a big window of poor surf with strong winds and monster swell right through to mid-August.

August 5th to August 9th is a period of serious, oversized swell, often over 13ft and up to 25ft. The combined energy readings are massive (8695 to 34316) – this is very strong, powerful surf. However, the wind is almost always cross-on or onshore, often strong to near-gale force. For a beach break, I’d be saying this is kite-surfing territory, but the reef at Spot x is just going to be dangerous and blown out. Only absolute experts should even think about it, and even then, the conditions are poor.

The second week – from August 10th onward – is more of the same: big, raw swell with onshore wind. The energy stays high, but the quality is low. There’s a small window on August 14th where the swell drops to 10ft, but the wind is still a strong cross-on, so it’s a no-go.

The best on offer is Sunday morning, August 2nd for the big, clean offshore session, and Monday morning, August 3rd for the glassy, long-period groundswell. Everything else is either blown out or too big to be fun. This is a reef break, so it's got a long period of poor conditions ahead, but it won’t stay poor forever.

Rusty.

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