Spot x Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let me have a good look at what’s coming down the pipe for Spot x. This is a reef setup, very consistent, and exposed to the swell. The water temp is sitting around 64°, about 1° above normal for the start of September, so nothing too wild there – feels pretty average for this time of year.

Right off the bat, the first week is a bit of a battle. We start on Tuesday the 1st with a big 8ft swell from the WSW, but the wind is on it, and the conditions are described as marginal. The energy is solid though, with a combined energy of 3079 – that’s some power. Wednesday the 2nd gets even bigger, nearly 12ft, but that wind picks up and the conditions go downhill. Thursday the 3rd is a write-off with strong winds, and Friday the 4th morning is still messy. That afternoon on the 4th, the swell hits 16ft from the WSW with an energy reading of 10723 – massive – but it’s still only considered marginal. That’s a lot of water moving around. Saturday and Sunday are blown out by near-gale winds, not worth paddling out for a surf.

Things start turning around on Monday the 7th. The swell drops back to 13ft from the SW, the wind goes light and onshore from the WSW at 9 mph. It’s still a little lumpy, but the energy is still big at 8224. This one gets a decent score for the morning, meaning there will be some clean-up sets.

Now, if you’re looking for the absolute standout, it’s Tuesday morning the 8th. This is it. Glassy conditions with a light 3 mph wind from the SW, and a solid 13ft swell from the SW at a very long 16-second period. The combined energy is a powerful 8458. This is groundswell, so expect long, clean lines and good shape on the reef. The water will be a bit glassy, making for some memorable waves. It’s big, though – over 8ft – so this is strictly for experienced surfers only. Don’t take the beginners out here.

There is a notable stretch from Wednesday the 9th through to Thursday the 10th where cross-offshore winds from the NE and NNE kick in, keeping the waves clean. Swell holds around 8ft to 12ft from the WSW with periods around 15 seconds. It’s not as powerful as Tuesday, but the wind is good and the waves are clean. This is a good period for intermediate surfers to get out. The energy drops to around 3835, which is moderate.

After that, it gets quiet. From Friday the 11th into the weekend, the swell drops off fast, down to 5ft on Saturday the 12th, and the wind goes onshore and cross-onshore, making it choppy. There’s not much to recommend until the start of the following week.

Then, Tuesday the 15th morning looks interesting again. The swell comes back up to 7ft from the WSW with a 13-second period, and the wind is a light offshore from the ENE at 6 mph. Energy is low, only 1977, but the conditions are clean and it’s a good option for experienced surfers looking for a more manageable day. This one looks promising, but it’s still a couple weeks out, so the certainty isn’t as high as the early September run.

Overall, the real standout is that Tuesday the 8th – glassy, big, and powerful. The second week has a couple clean windows, but nothing that really lights up the dial like that first Tuesday.

Stay safe out there.
Rusty.

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