Spot x Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, this is Rusty checking in with a look at the next 16 days for Spot X.

We’ve got a solid run of swell lined up here, but it’s not all smooth sailing. The wind is going to be the big player, shutting things down at times and opening up some real magic windows for those who know when to paddle out.

We’re starting off on Wednesday the 9th of September with some serious energy. A solid 10-foot groundswell from the WSW, with a long 15-second period, is pumping in. The combined energy is a hefty 3750 (moderate wave energy). The morning is the call here, with a clean 16 mph offshore breeze from the ENE. This is expert territory for sure – that’s a powerful, clean wave for the experienced crew. The water temp is about average for this time of year. The afternoon holds a similar, slightly smaller 8-foot swell but still clean with a lighter offshore.

Thursday the 10th still has some good size in the morning – 6-foot from the WSW with a 14-second period (1609 energy). The offshore wind from the NE is holding at 16 mph, keeping it clean and lined up for intermediates. The afternoon gets a bit trickier with a cross-shore wind kicking in, making it look a bit choppy.

Friday the 11th is a mixed bag. The swell is still there at 6 to 8 feet with a very long period (15 to 18 seconds), packing a punch (3174 to 4282 energy). The morning is clean with a cross-offshore breeze, but the afternoon gets messy with a building cross-chop. That long period groundswell at a beach/reef setup can make the waves a bit too straight and fat, so a point break would be better for that kind of energy.

The weekend turns ugly. Saturday the 12th and Sunday the 13th see the wind swing onshore or cross-onshore, turning that 8 to 10-foot swell into a complete mess. This is a good time to stay on the beach or, honestly, this setup looks more interesting for kite surfing than paddle surfing.

Now, here’s a true standout. Monday the 14th of September. The swell jumps back up to a powerful 12-foot from the WSW (4606 energy) with a 14-second period, and the morning delivers absolute gold: a light 6 mph offshore breeze from the NE. This will be clean, powerful, and perfect for the experts. This is the pick of the first week, no doubt.

We get a messy period from Tuesday the 15th through to the end of the week as the wind turns against us. There’s still plenty of swell (8 to 12 feet), but the conditions are poor with strong cross-onshore winds.

Another window opens up on Wednesday the 16th. The swell drops to a more manageable 8-foot from the SW (2202 energy) and the morning has a light offshore breeze from the East. That will be a clean, fun morning for strong intermediates.

After that, it’s a real gap. From Thursday the 17th right through to the end of the third week of September, the wind is a problem. We get some big, massive swells pushing through, like a 15 to 20-foot monster on the 21st and 22nd, but it’s all blown out with onshore or strong cross-onshore winds. A massive 18-foot swell on Monday the 21st (16706 energy!) is actually flagged as too big for this break, even if the wind was good. Not a paddle session.

Finally, we get a nice clean-up on Wednesday the 23rd of September. The swell drops back to a solid 10-foot from the SW (3408 energy) and the morning brings a clean, light offshore from the ENE. A great way to finish the run for the experts.

For the very end of the forecast, Thursday the 24th of September looks like a good intermediate day with a clean 7-foot swell under a moderate offshore breeze.

So, if you’re looking for the absolute best on offer, it’s Monday the 14th of September for a big, clean, expert session. For the slightly smaller but still clean waves, the mornings of Wednesday the 9th and Wednesday the 23rd are your next best bet.

Stay sharp, pick your windows, and don't get caught out by that nasty onshore wind.

Rusty.

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