Spot x Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here. Let’s break it down.

We’ve got a solid run of groundswell building at Spot x, but the wind is going to mess with us for the first few days. That initial push on Saturday 5th September brings a serious 12ft swell from the WSW with a heavy 14-second period, but a fresh cross-shore wind is going to chop it up. The water’s sitting at 65°, which is a touch warmer than usual for this time of year, but you won’t be feeling that with the messy conditions.

Sunday 6th September is still a write-off with the same cross-shore breeze, though the swell jumps up to 12ft with a 13-second period and the combined energy is a burly 7310. It’s still too lumpy to get excited about.

Now, Monday 7th September morning is where it starts to turn. The wind goes light and cross-off, the swell is a clean 12ft from the SW, and the period stretches to a very long 16 seconds. The combined energy is 6018, and conditions are clean. This is the first real standout. This is for expert surfers only at 12ft.

Tuesday 8th September is the real gem. The morning brings a 13ft swell from the WSW with a 16-second period, cross-off wind, and a combined energy of 8397. Then, in the afternoon, the wind drops to absolutely glassy, with the same 13ft swell and 16-second period. The energy is 7446. This is the best on offer for the whole run. Expert-only, but it’s as perfect as it gets here.

Wednesday 9th September still has a solid 10ft swell from the WSW with a 16-second period, but the wind swings offshore from the ENE, making it clean. The energy is 4796. Good for experienced surfers, but the wave is dropping.

From Thursday 10th September into Friday 11th September, the swell backs off to 7ft and 5ft, with periods staying in the 14-second range. The wind is cross-off and light, so the waves are clean and the combined energy drops to 1809 and 2062. This is fine for intermediates, but nothing special.

Then we hit a gap. Saturday 12th and Sunday 13th September are blown out with strong onshore wind and rain. The swell is still 8ft, but the wind is howling. This is a kite-surfing setup, not a paddle one.

The following week is more promising but less certain. Monday 14th September has an 12ft swell from the WSW with a 14-second period, but the wind is cross-on, so it’s pretty choppy. Tuesday 15th September morning is clean with a cross-off wind and an 12ft swell from the SW, 15-second period, and 6899 energy. The afternoon on Tuesday 15th September is the long-range standout: an 12ft SW swell, 16-second period, light cross-off wind, and 6018 energy. Looks exceptional for experts.

The rest of the week into the weekend of 19th-20th September sees a massive pulse. Saturday 20th September morning has a 16ft swell from the WSW with a 14-second period, light cross-on wind, and a combined energy of 12356. That’s huge. The afternoon on the 20th hits 20ft from the WSW with an 18-second period and a staggering 22184 energy. The wind is light cross-on, but the swell is simply too big for this break. That’s a big-wave event, and only for the most experienced.

So, to wrap it up: the standout is Tuesday 8th September, with the glassy afternoon session being the absolute best. The second standout is the Tuesday 15th September afternoon in the second week. Crowds are possible at Spot x, but with this size, it’ll keep the fair-weather crew out.

Rusty.

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