Spot x Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Right, folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s cooking for Spot x over the next couple of weeks. There’s a big, long-period groundswell on the way, but it’s going to take its time to get here and we’ve got a fair bit of weather to deal with before we see the goods.

The forecast kicks off on Sunday the 6th of September with some serious size already in the water, but it’s messy. An 8ft swell from the WSW with a long 17-second period is hitting the reef, but a fresh cross-shore breeze is making it lumpy. It’s got that powerful deep-water energy (6203), but it’s not clean. Water temp is sitting at 65°, which is a touch warmer than average for this time of year, so you might get away with a slightly thinner suit.

The standout window is going to be Monday morning the 7th. That 12ft SW groundswell, with a 16-second period, is pumping and the wind is a gentle cross-offshore breeze. The wave energy is massive (6018), and it’s going to be clean. This is expert territory – that size on a reef with that much power isn’t for the faint-hearted. Tuesday morning the 8th is also a serious contender, with a 13ft SW swell, same 16-second period, and a moderate cross-offshore breeze, giving you clean, heaving waves. The energy is cranked up to 8050. Tuesday afternoon looks mint too, with the wind turning offshore and dropping to a light breeze, holding up that 12ft swell. These two days are the real deal, but only for the experienced crew.

The pattern stays solid through to Wednesday the 9th, with a 10ft WSW swell and a fresh offshore wind in the morning keeping things clean, though it’s a touch smaller. After that, the wind starts to turn on us. Thursday and Friday are still seeing a decent 7ft to 7ft WSW swell, but the wind is cross or onshore, putting a chop on it. The energy is still moderate to strong (around 1800 to 4000), but the quality drops right off.

Then we hit a rough patch from Saturday the 12th through to Sunday the 20th. The swell sticks around, often between 8ft and 13ft, but the wind is almost constantly onshore or cross-onshore, sometimes howling at 18-25 mph. It’s going to be a choppy, blown-out mess for paddle surfing – honestly, this setup looks far more interesting for the kite crew. A couple of mornings around the 14th and 15th offer a brief respite with light winds and clean conditions on an 12ft and 8ft swell, but it’s short-lived.

The final week gets wild but ugly. From the 18th onwards, the swell size goes nuclear, hitting 18ft on the 20th and 21st with energy readings over 20,000 and 16,000. But the wind is howling onshore or straight on at 18-25 mph. It’s way too big for this break anyway, and the conditions will be dangerous and unsurfable.

So, to boil it down: the absolute best on offer is Monday morning the 7th and Tuesday the 8th. That’s your window for clean, heavy, expert-only reef surf. After that, you’re chasing scraps in the wind until the next big one blows through, but it’s not worth it.

Rusty.

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