Spot x Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s talk about what’s going on at Spot x. It’s a reef setup that likes a good WSW swell and handles a fair bit of size. We’re looking at a solid run of waves kicking off tonight, but with a few windows where the wind is going to fight us.

Right off the bat, the water temperature is sitting around 65°F, which is about average for this time of year. No crazy anomalies here. But the waves? We’ve got some juice. The first proper call is for early Monday morning, September 14th. That morning, we’re looking at 12ft of groundswell from the WSW with a long 14-second period, and the combined energy is strong. The wind swings around to the ESE at a light 6 mph, putting us in a clean, cross-off position. This is for experienced surfers only at this size, and it’s your first standout window. Clean lines and plenty of grunt.

Monday afternoon holds similar size at 12ft but the wind picks up to 12 mph from the SE, keeping it cross-off but a bit messier. It’s still a lookable option.

The best of the first week looks to be Tuesday morning, September 15th. We’ve got 10ft swell from the SW, a 14-second period, and the wind goes offshore and clean from the ENE at just 9 mph. This is about as good as it gets at Spot x. The sets will be clean, lined up, and powerful. If you’re an experienced surfer, circle this one. Offshores and a solid swell at an exposed reef. Crowds are only occasional here, so you might get some of it to yourself.

Wednesday morning, September 16th, drops a notch to 6ft from the SW. The wind is strong offshore from the NE at 16 mph. It’ll be clean as a whistle but a fair bit smaller. Good for a session if you missed the Tuesday standouts.

By Thursday afternoon, September 17th, conditions get worse with a fresh 19 mph cross-shore wind making it lumpy. The run of poor wind and choppy conditions then carries on through the weekend. On Friday the 18th, we get a big pulse of 12ft swell at a very long 17-second period, with the combined energy spiking hard. But a fresh 22 mph cross-off wind makes it a bit of a mission, and then it gets blown out by a near gale in the afternoon. Saturday the 19th has 13ft of WSW swell with onshore winds. Unless you're an expert comfortable with heavy, blown-out reef surf, give it a miss. That size over 8ft is strictly for the big dogs.

We hit a quiet spell mid-next week with a few marginal days, but the next real standout arrives on Tuesday morning, September 22nd. The swell is 10ft from the WSW at 14 seconds, and the wind is light from the SE at 6 mph in a cross-off position. Clean again. Another solid morning for it.

Then things get wild. The final stretch of the forecast is where it peaks. Friday morning, September 25th, sees 13ft of SW swell, but the combined energy is huge. The wind is cross-off from the NE at 12 mph, so it’s clean, but this is big, solid reef surfing. Then Saturday morning, September 26th, is the true standout of the whole 16-day run: a massive 16ft SW groundswell with an 18-second period. The combined energy is enormous. The wind is cross-off from the NE at 12 mph. This is a once-in-a-forecast type of day for experts only. The period is so long that the sets will be long and clean but the paddle outs will be a beast. This is the one to watch if you’ve got the skill and the courage. That said, it’s a long way out, so keep an eye on the charts.

Sunday the 27th drops back down but stays clean with offshore winds.

So to sum it up: the best windows for experienced surfers are Tuesday morning September 15th for perfect conditions, and the huge Saturday morning September 26th for the biggest, most powerful swell of the run. There will be gaps of a day or two where the wind ruins it, but the waves are consistent enough that something will be on offer most of the time.

Rusty.

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