Spot x Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, this is Rusty. Let's talk about what's shaping up for us here.

We've got a solid run of surf coming our way, but it's a tale of two weeks. The first week is packed with good, clean conditions, but then a proper storm blows through and trashes the place for a few days before the second week tries to clean up. The real standout is a day that's almost too big, but if you're a charger, it's going to be absolute magic.

We kick off on Monday the 7th with a bit of a messy one. The swell is a solid 12ft from the SW, and the combined energy is pumping (5296), but that cross-shore wind from the SSE at 15 mph is putting a chop on it. It's a bit of a write-off for a clean session.

Now, Tuesday morning the 8th is where it starts to get good. The swell drops a touch to 13ft from the WSW, but the wind swings to an ESE cross-off at 12 mph, and it's cleaning right up. The energy is massive (7820). Tuesday afternoon is the real gem, though. The swell drops to 12ft, but the wind goes completely offshore from the NE at just 3 mph. Glassy, clean, and perfect. The water temp is sitting at 65°, which is about a degree and a half warmer than usual for this time of year, so it's a touch on the pleasant side. Tuesday afternoon is the first true standout. The only thing to watch is that this is a very consistent reef break, and it can get busy sometimes, so get in early.

Wednesday the 9th keeps the good times rolling with a 10ft SW groundswell and a 15-second period. The wind is offshore from the ENE all day, but it's blowing a fresh 18 mph in the morning. That's a lot of wind, even if it's offshore. Wednesday afternoon is the better call with the wind dropping to 12 mph, leaving a clean, moderate offshore. The energy is still strong (3183).

Thursday the 10th sees the swell ease back to 7ft. The morning has a fresh offshore breeze again, but the afternoon is a dream: the wind drops to a 3 mph cross-off from the north, leaving it clean and glassy. Good for anyone.

Friday the 11th is a bit of a cross-shore affair. The swell is around 5-7ft from the WSW with a very long period of 18-19 seconds. That's a proper groundswell. At a beach break, that long period can make waves break a bit straight, but here at this reef, it's going to be lined up. The wind is light, so it's manageable, but not as clean as the days before.

Then comes the weekend. Forget it. Saturday the 12th and Sunday the 13th are a total loss. The wind howls from the WNW at 31-22 mph, putting a brutal cross-onshore chop on a 12-13ft swell. The energy is through the roof (10026), but it's a complete washing machine. This is better suited for a kite than a paddle.

We get a reprieve on Monday the 14th. The wind drops back to a light cross-off from the NNE, and the swell is still a healthy 12ft from the WSW. It's clean again. A good session for experienced surfers. Tuesday the 15th starts to get a bit bumpy again with a cross-on wind picking up, and by the afternoon, it's blown out.

The middle of the week (Wednesday the 16th and Thursday the 17th) is marginal. The wind is on it or cross-shore, and the swell is a bit jumbled. The energy is still there, but it's not the good stuff.

Alright, now for the real standout. Friday the 18th. This is for experts only. The swell is predicted to be a massive 20ft from the WSW with a 15-second period. The combined energy reading is off the charts at 16928. The wind is a clean cross-off from the NNE. That is a recipe for massive, powerful, clean waves at the reef. But it is going to be enormous. Over 8ft is for experts, and this is more than double that. If you're not a pro, stay on the beach and watch. This is a big, big call.

The weekend of the 19th and 20th goes back to being messy with strong onshore winds, and then Monday the 21st is a write-off with a strong onshore and a 15ft SW swell.

Finally, the last day, Tuesday the 22nd, is another cracker. The swell is still a solid 15ft from the SW with a 17-second period and immense energy (12170). The kicker? The wind goes completely glassy in the morning. Absolutely no wind. For a 15ft swell, that is a dream scenario for an expert surfer. It's a long way out, but it's a very promising note to end the forecast on.

So, to sum it up: the best on offer is Tuesday afternoon the 8th for a clean, fun session, and if you're a gun, Friday the 18th for the biggest, cleanest swell of the period. Tuesday the 22nd is also a long-range contender for a glassy, big-wave session.

Rusty.

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