Spot x Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here with a look at the waves coming our way. We’ve got a mixed bag ahead, but there is definitely some quality to be had if you’re patient.

The pattern starts off clean but a bit tricky, with longer-period SW groundswell and consistent NE winds to start. The water temp at Spot x is 64.2°, which is pretty much spot on for the time of year.

First up, Wednesday morning the 16th at Spot x. It’s a reef break, very consistent and exposed. We’ve got clean, 6.2ft of SW swell pushing in with a 13-second period, and the NE wind is holding steady at 12 mph in a cross-off position. The combined swell energy is moderate at 1299. It’s a bit of a session for the intermediate crew, nothing too outrageous. Then Wednesday afternoon cleans up even more with the wind dropping to a slight 3 mph from the north, still cross-off, with 4.9ft SW swell and 13-second period (energy 1079). This is looking like a good window for a fun session.

Thursday the 17th sees the swell dip a bit to 5.2ft in the morning, with a moderate breeze, but the quality holds. The afternoon turns cross with 4.3ft, which isn't as inviting.

Friday the 18th is a hard no. 25 mph north winds shred the morning, and by afternoon it’s a 14.8ft, 9-second NW slop with near gale-force winds. That’s a genuine kite-surfing setup, not for paddling.

We then hit a rough patch. From Friday afternoon all through to Monday the 22nd, the swell is big and powerful but the winds are onshore, cross-onshore, or just plain ugly. Saturday the 19th sees 14.8ft of WSW swell (energy 7442) with 22 mph onshore wind – a complete washout for paddle surfing.

The first real standout window arrives Monday morning the 21st of September. It’s still big with 11.5ft of SW swell from the west-southwest, period 15 seconds (combined energy a strong 5051), but the wind flips to a clean 12 mph cross-off from the north. It’s going to be a heavy, powerful groundswell – best suited for the more experienced surfer at this reef or point. The sets will be widely spaced with that long period, but the shape and energy will be superb. Crowds are possible out there.

The pattern stays big and messy through the rest of the week, with wind issues and onshore conditions dominating Tuesday through Thursday.

Then, look at this – Tuesday morning the 29th of September gets interesting. We’ve got a 9.8ft SW groundswell with a very long 17-second period pumping in (energy a strong 6015), and the wind is a light 6 mph from the west-southwest, which is onshore, but light enough that it’s just a slight bump. That’s a lot of water moving.

The true gem, though, is Wednesday morning the 30th of September. This is the best on offer. Glassy conditions – 3 mph from the north-northwest, offshore and glassy – with a solid 9.8ft SW swell, 16-second period, and a combined energy of 4056. The first hour or two of the day will be utterly perfect for the crew who can handle that size. That’s a session to mark in the calendar, but it’s ten days out, so keep an eye on it.

The outlook ends with a few workable afternoons on the first of October, but nothing that beats that Wednesday glass-off.

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