Spot x Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s get into it. We’ve got a long haul ahead, but this spot has some serious potential once the conditions line up.

First off, the water is sitting at 66° with an anomaly of 2°, so it’s a notch warmer than usual for this time of year – nothing too crazy, but pleasant.

The first few days are a write-off, honestly. We’re looking at a gap of no good surf right through Saturday the 25th and Sunday the 26th. The swell is there, but it’s blown out with strong onshore winds. On Sunday morning, the wind is howling from the southwest at 25 mph and the swell is a massive 16 ft from the SW, but it’s a complete mess. The combined wave energy is a massive 6182, but with that wind, you’d be mad to paddle out. It’s a full-on washing machine. Monday the 27th isn’t much better – still big, around 10 ft to 12 ft SW, but the wind is cross-shore and lumpy. The energy is still high, around 3116, but the quality just isn’t there for a good paddle.

Now, the standout – and I mean the real standout – is Tuesday the 28th.

Morning comes in clear with a glassy light offshore breeze from the ENE at only 6 mph. The swell is a solid 10 ft from the SW, but with a 14-second period, this is proper groundswell. The combined energy is a punchy 3518. This is the perfect window for experienced surfers only. The wave quality is rated excellent. Later in the afternoon, the wind drops to a mere 3 mph, still offshore, and the swell drops to 8 ft. It’s going to be clean, lined up, and very, very good. This is without a doubt the best on offer in the entire forecast.

Wednesday the 29th and Thursday the 30th are still very good, but not quite as magic. The wind stays cross-offshore, keeping things clean. The swell hangs around 5 ft to 8 ft, with a very long period of 16 to 19 seconds. That’s a proper long-period groundswell, which means great shape at this reef break, but the sets will be more spaced out. The energy is still high, in the 2500 to 2772 range.

Friday the 31st is a bit of a mixed bag. The swell builds back up to 12 ft, but the wind shifts to cross and cross-on, which puts a bit of a ripple on the face. The combined energy is huge at 5914, but it won’t be as clean as Tuesday.

The second week has another potential highlight, but it’s a bit further out, so keep your fingers crossed.

Saturday the 1st of August looks promising again with offshore winds and a solid 8 ft SW swell. Then Sunday the 2nd is still okay, but the wind picks up to 19 mph, making it a bit choppy.

We hit a rough patch from Monday the 3rd to Tuesday the 4th. The wind is onshore or strong cross-on, and the swell is big but messy. The energy is through the roof, over 5000, but it’s a total loss for surfing. It’s one of those times where the setup looks more interesting for kite surfing than paddle surfing.

Then, look ahead to Wednesday the 5th of August. The data shows a massive 23 ft swell from the WSW with a 14-second period. The combined energy is an insane 18715. But the word is, the swell is predicted to be too big for this break. That’s a big, dangerous, expert-only situation if the banks can handle it, but it’s likely just a washing machine.

Finally, the very end of the run, Sunday the 9th of August, shows another big pulse. The morning has a 20 ft WSW swell with a 14-second period, a clean offshore wind from the east at 19 mph, and energy of 12295. That’s another potential for experienced surfers if the direction and size line up, but it’s a long way out, so treat it as a promising rumour.

So, bottom line: Clear your calendar for Tuesday the 28th of July. That’s your best bet. The rest of the time, you’ll have to pick your windows, but there’s plenty of juice in the ocean.

Stay stoked.

Rusty.

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