Spot x Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Right, let’s have a look at the charts for the next couple of weeks. The ocean’s gonna be working, no doubt, but it’s not gonna be a simple story. We’ve got a solid window of proper, albeit oversized, swell coming in, but the winds are gonna be a mess for a lot of it. It’s about picking your moments, and there are a couple of absolute gems hiding in there if you’re patient.

The first real opportunity is this Saturday the 8th. The swell is cranking, pushing 21ft to 23ft out of the southwest, and the energy is strong. That’s a lot of water moving. But, and it’s a big but, the wind is howling onshore at 25-28 mph. It’s gonna be a washing machine out there. This is not a day for a beginner, and honestly, with that much west in the wind, Spot X is going to be a mess. This looks more like a kite-surfing setup than a paddle-surfing one. The energy is massive, but the quality just won’t be there for us.

Things stay big and messy through the weekend and into the start of next week. The swell stays above 13ft, but the wind stays on it, keeping things lumpy and blown out. It’s a shame because there’s an absolute monster pulse on Monday the 10th, with 23ft swell, but the 25 mph cross-onshore wind ruins it. It’ll be big, powerful, and completely unsurfable. We’re looking at a few days of just watching it roar.

Then, the wind finally plays ball. Wednesday the 12th through Friday the 14th is where it gets interesting. The swell drops back to a more manageable 13ft to 15ft, but the wind goes light and offshore, and on Thursday the 13th, it’s dead glassy in the morning. This is the window. The swell direction is still a solid WSW, which is right in the sweet spot for Spot X. The conditions are going to be clean, and the period is long, 15-17 seconds, which means proper groundswell lines. This is your standout. Thursday morning, with the glassy conditions and the 15ft of SW groundswell, is the pick of the entire period. It’s going to be epic. Friday morning is also good, slightly smaller but still clean.

After that, it starts to wind down and get messy again. The swell eases to 8ft-11ft, but the wind swings onshore and bumpy. The water is still a touch warmer than normal for this time of year, about 67°F, which is nice.

Looking further out, the second week is more of a tease. There’s a glimmer on Tuesday the 18th. The swell is 11ft from the WSW, and the wind goes light and offshore again, with a clean, long-period swell. It looks promising, but it’s a long way out, so I wouldn’t be locking in plans just yet. It’s the sort of forecast that’s got potential, but we’ll need to see it get closer.

Before that, the 15th through the 17th looks pretty poor. The swell is small and choppy, and the wind is just messy. It’s a blank spell after that clean few days. The 19th and 20th are looking like a write-off with a storm system sending strong winds and rain our way.

So, to wrap it up: don’t kill yourself this weekend. The surf is too big and blown out. Wait for that clean window next Wednesday and Thursday. That’s the one. The early call for the 18th could be a bonus, but let’s see how it shapes up.

Rusty.

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