Spot x Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, this is Rusty, checkin' in from Spot x. We've got a long window ahead, but it's a bit of a mixed bag, so let's get into it.

First up, the water here is sitting at 66°F at the moment, which is a touch warmer than what we'd normally expect for this time of year.

We start on Sunday, the 23rd of August, and honestly, it's a bit of a grim start. The swell is a solid 8ft from the SW with a 13-second period, but that cross-on wind from the SSW at 12 mph is ripping across it, making it a choppy, messy affair. The wave energy is strong (2468), but the quality is just not there. The afternoon is more of the same. Monday, the 24th, offers a little glimmer – a 10ft WSW swell with a 15-second period, but it's still cross-shore and a bit lumpy for the morning. The afternoon goes back to choppy cross-on. It's not great.

Tuesday the 25th gets a bit fizzy with a fresh breeze, 22 mph from the NNW, making it a lumpy cross-chop even with a decent 8ft to 12ft swell. The rain rolling in on Tuesday afternoon doesn't help. From Wednesday the 26th, things get interesting, but not for the faint-hearted. We've got a massive 16ft groundswell from the WSW, with a very long period of 18 seconds. The wave energy is extreme (18374) – a huge amount of power. The wind is light, but the problem is the swell is simply too big for this reef setup. It's an expert-only situation, and even then, you'd want to be very sure of yourself. The afternoon eases slightly to 16ft, but still a huge slab.

Thursday the 27th and Friday the 28th see the swell drop to a more manageable 12ft and then 7ft, and the wind finally turns cross-offshore from the SE. It's clean, but the energy is still moderate (5433 dropping to 1433). It's a sessionable size, but not a standout.

Now, Saturday the 29th of August is the pick of the week. The morning is delivering a clean 8ft from the SW with a 16-second period, and a moderate offshore breeze from the ENE at 16 mph. The wave energy is solid (3353). Then the afternoon goes glassy. A 3 mph wind from the S, flat calm, with a 10ft SW groundswell at 16 seconds. That's 10ft of clean, glassy, long-period swell. The energy jumps to 4883. This is the one. This is what you wait for. It's an excellent session for experienced surfers, but that 10ft size is a touch big for beginners. Expect some crowds, as it's a spot that can get busy.

After that, the outlook gets murky again. Sunday the 30th and Monday the 31st bring back the cross-on wind and a decent 10ft swell, but the wind is wrong. The first week of September is a write-off for quality, with onshore winds and rain, and the swell hangs around 8ft to 12ft. The wind keeps it mushy.

The second week shows a big pulse returning. The 5th of September has a light wind, but the 15ft swell is cross-on and messy. The 7th of September looks like a repeat of the 26th of August – a massive 21ft to 23ft WSW groundswell with a very long period (17 seconds). The energy is off the charts, but the onshore wind and the sheer size make it a kite-surfing dream, not a paddle-surfing one. There's a 16-day gap in quality, but that Saturday session is the real deal.

So, the standout is without a doubt Saturday the 29th of August. The afternoon glass-off with 10ft, 16-second groundswell from the SW is as good as it gets. Lock it in.

Rusty.

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