Spot x Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what the ocean is cooking up for Spot X over the next couple of weeks. It’s a bit of a mixed bag, so pay attention.

Overall, we’ve got a solid run of surf coming through, but the wind is going to be our arch-nemesis for most of it. The real standout window is a good week and a half away, so we’ll need some patience. The water is sitting at 64°, which is about average for this time of year, so no surprises there.

The session kicks off on Wednesday the 16th with some promising conditions. The swell is a clean 5ft from the SW with a 13-second period, giving us a moderate wave energy of 1079. But the real beauty here is the wind – a glassy offshore breeze from the NW. This is about as clean as it gets, perfect for intermediate surfers to get some silky lines at this exposed reef. This is your first genuine highlight.

Thursday the 17th starts with a morning session that’s looking okay. The swell bumps up a bit to 5ft from the WSW, and the cross-off wind keeps things clean for the experienced crew. But the afternoon turns into a messy cross-shore mess with chop. Skip that.

Friday the 18th has a bigger, longer-period swell rolling in. By afternoon we’re looking at 6ft from the WSW with a 17-second period. That’s proper groundswell energy, with a strong wave energy of 2298. The wind is cross-off, so it’ll be clean, but the shorter board will be your friend.

Now, Saturday the 19th is a write-off. A massive 25ft swell from the west hits in the morning, with the combined energy screaming at 20809. That’s a near-gale cross-onshore wind. This spot will be unsurfable for anyone, and the beach setup will just be a kite surfer’s playground. Sunday and Monday see the size drop back into the 8ft to 12ft range, but the wind is a constant problem, staying cross-onshore and blowing the waves out. This is a frustrating stretch of almost-fantastic swell with terrible wind.

We finally get a break in the wind on Wednesday the 23rd of September. The morning has a clean 8ft swell from the WSW with a nice 12-second period and a light cross-off breeze. That’s a decent session for experienced surfers looking for some overhead barrels.

The real standout, though, is still a few days off. Let’s talk about Monday the 25th of September. Both morning and afternoon deliver a 15ft swell from the WSW. The period is a very long 19-seconds in the morning, dropping to 18-seconds in the afternoon. The combined energy is massive at 13850 and 11924. Yes, the wind is a fresh cross-shore, so it’ll be lumpy, but the raw power and long-period groundswell will be incredible for experts at this exposed reef. This is the big tick on the calendar.

The last real hope comes on Tuesday the 30th of September. The morning session looks exceptional for experts. We have an 12ft swell from the SW with a 16-second period, strong energy of 5135, and a light offshore breeze from the NE. That’s a recipe for clean, powerful walls.

After that, the last few days of the outlook drift off into smaller, onshore chop. The swell stays around 8ft, but the wind from the SSW kills it.

So, to keep it simple: for the cleanest, glassy session right now, hit it Wednesday the 16th. For the biggest, most powerful groundswell of the period, circle Monday the 25th of September on your calendar, but be ready to battle the lump. And for a final clean session for the experts, Tuesday the 30th of September morning is your ticket.

Stay frothy.

Rusty

Read more