Spot x Surf Forecast and Surf Report

G’day, Rusty here, and I’ve been staring at the charts for Spot X… and mate, we’ve got a proper mixed bag heading our way. The next few weeks are going to test your patience, but there are some absolute gems hiding in there if you’re willing to wait.

Alright, let’s get into it. The first bit of surf we can talk about is this Friday afternoon, the 21st of August. There’s a solid 11.5 ft SW swell rolling in with a 14-second period, carrying a heap of energy (6377). The water’s sitting at 65.7°, which is a touch warmer than normal for this time of year. But here’s the kicker – the wind is cross-on from the SSW at 9 mph, and it’s making things fairly choppy. The wave comment says it’s marginal, and honestly, it’s not the kind of session you’d write home about. The set-up is a reef break, so that long-period groundswell has potential, but with that messy wind, it’s hard to get excited.

Saturday the 22nd and Sunday the 23rd are write-offs. The swell drops a bit to 8.2 ft-9.8 ft, but the wind is solid cross-on, 12-16 mph, creating awful conditions. The energy is still moderate to strong (3953 to 2567), but the scores are zero – it’s just poor out there. Don’t bother.

Monday the 24th is a bit of a tease. The swell is still 9.8 ft from the WSW, but the wind swings light and cross from the NNW at 6 mph in the morning. That gives us a light cross-shore with small ripples. The energy is still strong (2862), but the score is a low 3. It’s surfable, but not what you’d call good. The afternoon gets worse as the wind picks up.

Tuesday the 25th and Wednesday the 26th are where things get interesting – and a bit dangerous. On Wednesday morning, the 26th of August, we see a massive jump in energy: 18328, with an 18 ft swell from the WSW at an 18-second period. That’s a proper, very long-period groundswell. The wind is onshore from the WSW at 19 mph, which is bad, but the wave comment says the wind and tide are favorable for the break. The problem? That size is over 8.2 ft – this is strictly for experts only. The reef will be handling a lot of water, and it’s likely too big for most. The afternoon is similar, 16.4 ft, still huge. This is a standout in terms of raw power, but only for the brave and the skilled.

Thursday the 27th is a letdown again – 11.5 ft swell but cross-on winds and choppy conditions. Not worth it.

Now, here’s where the real gold starts. Friday the 28th of August morning: the swell drops to 7.5 ft from the SW, 12-second period, energy down to 1556. But the wind – oh, the wind – is light and cross-offshore from the east at 6 mph. The wave comment says “excellent surf conditions for experienced surfers.” The break is clean. That’s the one to aim for. It’s not huge, but it’s clean, and the reef will handle that long-period groundswell well. Crowds are sometimes possible, so keep an eye out.

Saturday the 29th of August afternoon is another standout. The swell is 7.9 ft from the SW, 16-second period, energy at 2905. The wind is light cross-off from the north at 9 mph, and the conditions are clean. The wave comment says “excellent surf conditions for experienced surfers.” This is a solid session.

Sunday the 30th of August morning is a bit more wind, but still clean with a 9.8 ft SW swell. The wind is a fresh cross-off from the north at 19 mph, so it’s clean but punchy. The energy is strong (4124). That’s for the more experienced crew.

The first week of September keeps the swell going. Tuesday the 1st of September morning is a beauty: 8.2 ft from the WSW, 16-second period, light cross-off wind from the NE at 6 mph, clean conditions. Excellent for experienced surfers. The energy is moderate (3283). This is a solid pick.

But the absolute best of the lot – the one that’s got me buzzing – is Saturday the 5th of September afternoon. The swell is 16.4 ft from the WSW, 16-second period, and the energy is massive: 12448. The wind is gentle offshore from the ENE at 9 mph, and the wave comment says “exceptional surf conditions for expert surfers.” That is a proper, big-wave groundswell with offshore wind. That’s a day for the legends. The reef will be handling it, but it’s over 8.2 ft, so it’s not for the faint-hearted.

So, to sum it up: the first few days are rough. The standout morning sessions are Friday the 28th of August, Saturday the 29th of August afternoon, and Tuesday the 1st of September morning. The big one, the one to circle on the calendar, is Saturday the 5th of September afternoon. That

Read more