Spot x Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here, let’s talk about what’s on the cards for Spot X over the next couple of weeks.

It’s a bit of a mixed bag, and we’re paying the price for a solid run of swell with some pretty poor winds early on. The first few days are a write-off for quality surfing, but if you’re patient, there are a couple of absolute gems hiding in the second week.

We kick things off on Friday the 11th with some messy conditions. The water temp’s sitting at 65°, which is about a degree and a half warmer than normal for this time of year, so it’s a touch balmy. The morning has a 7ft WSW swell with 14-second period, but that 35 km/h NNE cross-off wind is strong, and the energy is huge at 2972. It’s clean, but it’s a grind. The afternoon gets bigger, 8ft, but the winds just make it a fight. Not great.

Saturday the 12th and Sunday the 13th are a total loss. We’re looking at onshore and cross-on winds ripping into an 12ft to 10ft swell, and it’s all just chunky, choppy, and blown out. Forget it. This is a solid 3-day blank on quality surf.

There’s a light at the end of the tunnel. Monday morning the 14th, the wind swings around to a gentle 15 km/h ESE cross-off, and we’ve got a clean 12ft swell from the WSW. The period is 14 seconds, which gives the waves some proper shape and power, with the energy hitting 4916. This is for the experienced crew only – that size is well into expert territory, and the reef setup means it’s going to be a heavy, hollow wall. The crowd factor is there from time to time, but for the surfer willing to put in the work, this is the first real standout.

Tuesday the 15th morning is another cracker. A 10ft SW swell with the same 14-second period, and now we’ve got a 15 km/h ENE offshore breeze. Glassy, clean, and the energy is 3463. This is the other solid option in this early part of the outlook. It’s a high-quality, powerful wave for the intermediate-to-expert.

From Wednesday the 16th through the rest of that week, the winds turn ugly again. We get a few smaller, clean windows on Wednesday morning (7ft), but the real story is the size and the wind fighting each other. Thursday the 17th sees a near gale of 50 km/h from the NNW, making a mess of things. The swell drops but the quality is zero.

Now, for the true standouts. Hold on for the 20th of September – Sunday morning. It’s 8 days away, so it’s a long-range call, but the numbers are insane. A 16ft SW swell, 16-second period, light 10 km/h N cross-off wind, and the energy is a huge 13545. That is a massive, very long-period groundswell hitting the reef. It’s a monster, and it’s only for the expert crew. This is easily the best on offer, but you have to be locked in.

Saturday the 19th isn’t far behind, with a 15ft to 16ft WSW swell and very light winds, but the score is a little lower due to the tide question. Still, a massive swell.

After that, the last week of the outlook is riddled with strong cross-onshore winds and messy conditions. We get a few sessions on the 25th and 26th with cleaner cross-shore wind and smaller, more manageable 8ft to 8ft swell, but it’s nothing compared to that Sunday the 20th.

Honestly, the pick of the entire 16 days is hands down Sunday the 20th of September morning. That 16ft, 16-second SW groundswell with light offshore wind is the kind of session you wait all year for. Monday the 14th morning and Tuesday the 15th morning are your best bets if the big stuff is too much.

Rusty.

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