Spot x Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s cooking for Spot x.

Right off the bat, we’ve got a long stretch of ugly weather and messy swell. The first surfable day that even looks halfway decent is Thursday the 4th of September, and even then it’s a bit of a dog. The forecast opens with a whole lot of nothing for the first few days: Monday the 31st of August and Tuesday the 1st of September are write-offs, with onshore winds and lumpy, poor surf. Wednesday the 2nd and Thursday the 3rd are no better – strong cross-onshore winds and a lot of energy in the water (combined energy of all swells directed here hitting 3843 on Wednesday morning and 5726 on Thursday morning), but it’s all blown out and messy. Honestly, it’s a grim start.

We finally get a window of opportunity on Friday the 4th of September. The morning is still a write-off with poor conditions, but the afternoon shows a glimmer. The swell is big, pushing 16 ft from the SW with a long period of 16 seconds, and the wind eases to a gentle breeze. The combined energy is massive (12303), so there’s plenty of power, but it’s still cross-onshore and fairly choppy. It’s a marginal call, but the rating is a 6, so it’s the best we’ve seen so far. This is for the experienced crew only – 16 ft is expert territory. The direction is right on the money for the optimum swell direction (WSW), so the break will be handling it.

After that, Saturday the 5th of September is a total mess again with near gale-force winds and the swell jumping to 20 ft. Forget it. Sunday the 6th and Monday the 7th are still big and lumpy, with fresh cross-onshore winds. The real standout, though, comes on Monday the 7th of September in the afternoon. The swell is 12 ft from the SW, but the period jumps to a very long 20 seconds. The combined energy is off the charts at 18781. The wind is a gentle breeze, cross-onshore, but the forecast notes say the swell is too big for this break. So, while it’s a powerful, clean-looking groundswell, it’s not happening.

The absolute best of the entire 16-day run is Tuesday the 8th of September. The morning sees a 13 ft SW swell with a 16-second period, combined energy of 8604, and a light cross-offshore breeze from the NNE. The forecast is calling it exceptional for expert surfers – a 9 out of 10. The afternoon is a little smaller at 12 ft but still clean with a light cross-offshore breeze from the north. This is the one to circle if you’ve got the skills. The break is a reef, so it will handle the long period and big size well. The water temp is 65°, which is about normal for the time of year.

After that, the quality drops off. Wednesday the 9th and Thursday the 10th of September are marginal with cross-onshore winds and choppy conditions. Friday the 11th of September has a nice clean morning with a 8 ft SW swell and a light offshore breeze from the NE, giving a 5 out of 10 for experienced surfers. The weekend of the 12th and 13th is mixed – Saturday the 12th is small and marginal, but Sunday the 13th sees a 13 ft swell with a combined energy of 7978, though it’s cross-onshore and choppy.

The final standout is Monday the 14th of September. The morning has a 10 ft SW swell with a 15-second period, combined energy of 4324, and a glassy offshore breeze from the NE. It’s clean and excellent for experienced surfers, earning a 5. This is a solid option for the second week. Tuesday the 15th of September morning is also decent: 8 ft SW swell, light offshore breeze, clean, and a 5. So the second week has some promise, but it’s not as clean or as powerful as that Tuesday the 8th.

The whole run is very consistent, but the wind is the enemy for most of it. The one true standout is Tuesday the 8th of September morning. If you’re good enough for 13 ft, that’s the day. For the rest of us, Monday the 14th of September morning looks like a solid, clean session.

Stay safe out there.
Rusty

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