Spot x Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, this is Rusty, and I’ve got the goods on Spot x for the next couple of weeks. We’re looking at a reef break, exposed to the swell, and it’s been picking up a good SW groundswell. The water is sitting at 64.9° right now, which is about normal for this time of year.

We’re kicking off Monday the 7th with a serious pulse of energy. The combined swell energy is pumping at 6307 (moderate-strong), and we’ve got a 11.5ft SW groundswell with a long 16-second period. That’s proper groundswell, and with a light SE cross-offshore breeze, the morning session is looking clean and powerful. This is big stuff though – over 8.2ft, so this is strictly for the experts. The wave quality is exceptional, but don’t kid yourself, this isn’t a beginner’s wave. The wind swings around to a fresh SSE cross-shore in the afternoon, making things lumpy, so the morning is your window.

Tuesday the 8th keeps the energy high. The swell nudges up to 13.1ft from the WSW, still with that long 16-second period, and combined energy at 7820 (moderate-strong). The morning has a moderate ESE cross-offshore, keeping it clean for the experienced crew. But the real standout is Tuesday afternoon: a gentle offshore breeze from the NE, glassy conditions, and a solid 11.5ft WSW swell. That’s the pick of the early week for any expert surfer who can handle it.

Wednesday the 9th sees the swell dropping to 9.8ft, but it’s still a strong WSW groundswell with a 15-second period. The morning has a fresh offshore wind from the ENE, so it’s clean, but the wind is strong. The afternoon calms down with a gentle NE cross-offshore and 8.2ft waves.

Thursday the 10th is where it gets really interesting for the experienced intermediate. The swell has dropped to a more manageable 6.2ft, but the period is still a solid 14-15 seconds. The morning has a moderate offshore from the NE, keeping it clean. But Thursday afternoon? Glassy. Absolutely glassy. A light NNW breeze, barely a ripple, and a 6.2ft WSW swell with a 15-second period. That’s as good as it gets for clean, lined-up reef waves. The combined energy is 1799 (moderate), so there’s plenty of push.

Friday the 11th offers more clean waves in the morning – 5.2ft from the WSW with a very long 19-second period. That’s a long-period groundswell, which at a reef break like this will be beautiful and lined up, but with long waits between sets. The afternoon picks up to 7.2ft, but the cross-shore wind puts a slight chop on it.

Now, we hit a rough patch. Saturday the 12th and Sunday the 13th are write-offs. Strong onshore winds, rain, and messy, blown-out conditions. The swell is still big (7.5ft to 9.8ft), but with the wind howling, it’s a mess. The combined energy is still high, but the quality is zero. This is more of a kite-surfing setup than paddle surfing.

Monday the 14th brings a return to cleaner conditions. A 9.8ft WSW swell with a 13-second period, and a gentle NE cross-offshore breeze in the morning. It’s clean and powerful, but still big for the average surfer.

Tuesday the 15th and Wednesday the 16th are a mixed bag. The swell stays in the 4.3ft to 8.2ft range, but the wind is mostly cross-onshore or fresh cross-shore, creating chop and lumpy conditions. Not the best.

Thursday the 17th and Friday the 18th see the swell absolutely jack up. We’re talking 16.4ft to 18.0ft from the WSW. The combined energy hits massive numbers like 8423 and 13750 (very strong). But the wind is a nightmare – strong onshore and cross-onshore, making it completely unsurfable for paddle surfing. This is huge, dangerous, and messy.

Saturday the 19th is still messy with onshore wind, dropping to 11.5ft.

Now, here’s the long-range promise. Sunday the 20th and Monday the 21st look incredible on paper, but we’re a week and a half out, so treat it as promising but not locked in. Sunday the 20th afternoon has a 14.8ft SW swell with a 15-second period, combined energy of 16437 (very strong). The wind is moderate cross-onshore, so it’s a bit choppy, but the swell is there. Monday the 21st is the real standout of this long-range window: a 16.4ft SW swell with an 18-second period, combined energy of 17664 (very strong),

Read more