Spot x Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s on offer at Spot x. We’ve got a bit of a mixed bag coming up over the next couple of weeks.

Right off the bat, the first bit of action is on Sunday, August 30th, with a solid 10ft swell from the WSW. The energy is pumping pretty hard at 4320 (moderate to strong combined energy), and that 16-second period gives it some real grunt. The water's sitting at 65°, which is about average for this time of year. The wind is a light cross-onshore, so it’s not perfect, but it’s surfable. The break is a reef, so it’ll handle that long-period groundswell well. It’s a very consistent spot, so you won’t be waiting around forever. All that said, the score tells me it’s a bit marginal, likely due to the tide or that cross-onshore bump.

Moving into Monday the 31st, the swell drops a bit to 8ft, but the wind gets nasty. A moderate to fresh breeze makes things choppy and messy. This one’s a write-off.

Tuesday, September 1st, sees the wind finally swing offshore at 9 mph. The swell is 8ft with a 15-second period, but the energy is dropping. The scores are low, and it’s looking marginal at best. The wind is clean, but the waves just don't seem to have the quality.

The rest of the first week and into the second is a lot of the same story: plenty of size, but the wind is almost always onshore or cross-onshore, often strong. From Thursday the 3rd through to Saturday the 6th, we’re getting hammered by fresh to strong breezes, and the swell gets up to 16ft. That’s big, expert-only territory, and the wind is just ruining it. The combined energy spikes to over 9000, even hitting 12131, so there’s a ton of power, but it’s all messy and lumpy. For a paddle surfer, this is a tough watch. The setup looks more interesting for kite surfing than paddle surfing during these days.

Now, here’s where it gets interesting. Hold onto your board, because the standout window is Monday, September 7th, and especially Tuesday, September 8th. On Monday the 7th, the wind goes clean offshore from the WSW at 9 mph. The swell is 15ft to 13ft, with a 17 and 16-second period. The energy is massive—14487 on Monday afternoon. This is a big, powerful groundswell, and with offshore wind, Spot x (a reef) will be the place to be. The surf is looking exceptional for expert surfers.

But the absolute best on offer is Tuesday, September 8th, in the morning. We get a 13ft swell from the SW, a 16-second period, and a light cross-offshore breeze from the N at 9 mph. The combined energy is 9268, and the conditions are described as clean. For a reef break, that cross-offshore wind is a dream. The score is a 9 out of 10, which is about as good as it gets. This is a serious session for the experienced crew.

The quality holds through Wednesday, September 9th, with a 15ft swell from the WSW, 16-second period, and clean cross-offshore winds from the NNE. Another top-tier day.

The weekend of the 12th and 13th sees the size stick around, but the wind swings back onshore, making it a frustrating, lumpy mess. The 16ft swell on Saturday afternoon is huge, but the conditions are only marginal.

The forecast wraps up on Monday, September 14th, with a smaller 8ft swell and a moderate cross-onshore breeze. Poor conditions.

So, to sum it up: the first week is a write-off due to wind. The standout is hands-down Tuesday, September 8th, and Wednesday, September 9th, for the clean, offshore conditions and the big, powerful groundswell. The rest of the second week is a mix of size and wind, but nothing clean.

Rusty.

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