Spot x Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here. Let’s talk about what’s on the menu for Spot x over the next couple of weeks. It’s a reef break, very consistent, exposed to the swell, and it likes the swell coming from a west-southwest direction. The water is sitting at 66°F and that’s about 2°F warmer than normal for this time of year, so it’s a touch on the toasty side.

The forecast opens on Thursday the 30th of July with a solid 6ft SW groundswell, period a clean 14 seconds, and the combined energy is pumping strong at 1796. But the wind is a cross-shore breeze from the NW at 9 mph, so it’s a bit lumpy with some chop. Not the cleanest, but it’s rideable. Conditions are described as marginal, so it’s not a standout by any stretch.

Friday the 31st sees the swell jump to 10ft, but the wind cranks up to 19 mph from the NW, making it a lumpy, cross-shore mess. By the afternoon, it’s even worse—12ft swell with a strong 25 mph cross-onshore wind and a risk of thunderstorms. That’s a write-off.

Saturday the 1st of August has a big 13ft to 15ft SW swell, but the wind is all over the place. The morning is choppy cross-onshore, but the afternoon shows some promise. The wind drops to 12 mph from the SSE, still cross-shore but cleaner, and the swell hits 15ft with a 15-second period. The energy is huge at 8947. That’s a big, powerful wave—only for experienced surfers, and it’s going to have a lot of water moving.

Now here’s where it gets good. On Sunday the 2nd of August, we finally get some proper offshore wind. The morning has a clean NE breeze at 12 mph with a 10ft SW groundswell, 13-second period. The conditions are excellent for experienced surfers. The energy is still strong at 3475, and the waves will be clean and lined up. This is the first real standout. The afternoon is even lighter—NNE wind at just 3 mph, almost glassy, with a 10ft swell. That’s a beautiful window for a reef break like Spot x.

Monday the 3rd keeps the good times rolling with a light cross-offshore breeze in the morning—only 3 mph from the SE. The swell drops a bit to 7ft but with a long 15-second period, making for some quality, well-shaped waves. Energy is at 1801, solid but not crazy. This is another excellent session for the experienced crew. The afternoon turns ugly with a 16 mph cross-onshore, so get in early.

From Tuesday the 4th through to Tuesday the 11th of August, it’s a messy run. The swell stays big—anywhere from 12ft up to a monstrous 23ft—but the wind is nearly always cross-onshore or onshore, often strong. There are a few moments like the afternoon of the 5th of August with a 13ft WSW swell and only a 3 mph onshore breeze, but it’s still a bit soft. The 11th of August afternoon has a 20ft swell with a short 11-second period and fresh cross-shore wind—lumpy, but maybe something for the dedicated big-wave crew.

The real standout for the second week? Sunday the 2nd and Monday the 3rd of August are your best bets. Clean, offshore-to-glassly conditions, decent size, long period groundswell—that’s the kind of day you call in sick for. After that, the second week is mostly let down by wind, or just too big. By the 12th of August we’re looking at a 23ft swell with a 19-second period and strong cross-onshore wind—that’s more for the big-wave chargers or, frankly, kites.

It’s not a complete write-off. There are two or three quality sessions in the first week, especially if you score the offshore windows. After that, the swell and wind get into a fight and the surfer usually loses. But what a fight it is.

- Rusty

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