Spot x Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, surf is up, but it’s a tale of two extremes for the next couple of weeks. We’ve got a serious run of solid, powerful SW groundswell on the way, but for the first stretch, it’s going to be way too much of a good thing for Spot X. We're talking a slab of ocean that’s more of a washing machine than a peeling wave. You’ll see what I mean.

The first real action kicks off this Saturday morning, August 8th. Spot X is absolutely cranking, but it’s a beast. We’re looking at a 21ft SW swell with a 15-second period, and the energy is extreme – I’m seeing 18935 on the gauge. That’s not just a surf, that’s a survival mission. The wind is a near-gale cross-onshore, which is just going to add to the chaos. It’s blown out. Saturday afternoon only gets bigger and messier, with 23ft of swell and even more energy at 24483. This is big-wave territory, and only for the most experienced and equipped. If you’re not 100% sure, stay on the beach. The water temp is about average for this time of year, so no surprises there.

We've got a couple of days of messy, blown-out conditions after that. Sunday the 9th sees a drop to 16ft, but the wind is onshore and it’s still just a mess. Monday the 10th isn't any better, with strong onshores making it a complete write-off. The swell is still there, but the quality is zero.

The next real window opens up on Tuesday, August 11th. The swell is still huge, 21ft in the morning with a long 16-second period and energy at 20952. The wind is still cross-onshore, but the comment says wind and tide are favorable. Still, at this size, it's a heavy, heavy day for experts only. It eases slightly in the afternoon, but it's a long way from clean.

Wednesday the 12th and Thursday the 13th are the transition. The swell is easing into the 13ft range, but the wind is on it. Wednesday is a full onshore washout. Thursday starts to clean up a bit, with the morning showing some cross-on texture, but the afternoon shows real promise. That's when we get a light cross-onshore breeze and a 13ft SW swell with a very long 17-second period. It’s going to be lumpy but lined up.

Now, Friday the 14th is where it starts to get really interesting. The wind swings around to a light cross-offshore from the NE and the ocean finally cleans up. The swell is down to 12ft in the morning and 10ft in the afternoon, still with a solid 15-second period. The energy is moderate at 6003, but the conditions are clean. This is looking like the first proper, rideable day. The afternoon is glassy and clean too.

Saturday the 15th is a standout. The morning is a bit smaller at 8ft with a moderate cross-off breeze, still clean. But the afternoon is where it's at. The swell bumps back up to a fun 13ft from the W, with a 14-second period. The wind is a light, offshore breeze and the comment is “exceptional surf conditions for expert surfers.” The energy is moderate at 5908. This is shaping up to be one of the best windows on offer. The break is consistent and the conditions will be pristine.

Sunday the 16th is a letdown after that. The wind goes light and variable, with a bit of cross-shore chop. The swell is still there, 10-12ft, but the clean lines are gone. It’s still surfable, but not a patch on Saturday.

Monday the 17th brings another big pulse of long-period swell. The morning looks fantastic, with a light cross-offshore breeze and a 15ft WSW swell with a very long 17-second period. Clean and powerful. The energy is strong at 11341. The afternoon is still good but gets a bit of a cross-shore chop as the wind picks up.

And then, it all turns to junk again. Tuesday the 18th sees a near-gale cross-onshore and the surf is blown out. Wednesday the 19th is onshore and choppy. Thursday the 20th has a fresh cross-shore wind making it lumpy, and the swell builds back up a bit. By Friday the 21st and Saturday the 22nd, we're back to strong onshores and poor conditions. The ocean will be a mess.

The final days of the window, around August 22nd and 23rd, see the swell finally dip below the 7ft mark, but the winds are still onshore and the surf is just poor to marginal. It fizzles out without much fanfare.

So, if you’re an expert and you’re willing to pick your moment, the window on Saturday afternoon the 15th and Monday morning the 17th look like the true standouts. Get it while you can. This is a reef break, so that long-period swell is going to focus nicely, but it’s a powerful wave and not for the faint of heart.

For the second week, things are less certain and mostly not worth the paddle. Keep an eye on that Monday the 17th, though.

Rusty.

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