Californias Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s on the cards for the next couple of weeks at Californias (reef). Gotta be straight with you – the start of this run is a bit of a dud. We’re looking at a big gap of poor conditions. It’s not until Saturday the 5th of September that things start to look interesting, so you’ll be waiting a week for the real action.

For the first part of the forecast, from now through to the end of August, don’t even bother. Thursday the 27th into Friday the 28th has got some size, with a 10ft swell from the West on Thursday, but the wind is all over it – cross-onshore and choppy. The combined energy is high (1526 to 1707), but it’s messy. On Friday, the swell drops to 5ft, and the wind goes cross-off, but the file still says poor surf conditions. The energy is moderate (479). Saturday and Sunday are tiny, with less than 3ft of swell. There’s a brief moment Sunday morning with offshore wind from the ENE, but the swell is just 0.7ft – not worth paddling out for.

The first real glimmer of hope is on Monday the 31st of August. The swell jumps to 6ft from the NE, but the period is a short 6 seconds, and it’s a risk of thunderstorms with cross-off winds. The energy is moderate (236), but it’s not clean enough to get excited about. Tuesday the 1st of September shows a 8ft East swell with a 10-second period, but the wind is a strong cross-shore from the NNW at 28 mph, creating messy conditions. The energy is strong (1048), but it’s blown out. Wednesday and Thursday stay windy and lumpy, with swells around 5ft to 5ft. Not your day.

Now, here’s the standout. Mark your calendar for Saturday the 5th of September. This is the best on offer. We’ve got a 8ft to 8ft swell from the North and NNW, with a long 12-second period. The wind goes glassy – absolutely still – in the morning from the East, and then light from the NNE in the afternoon. The water temperature is a warm 84°F, which is about average for the time of year. This is going to be excellent surf conditions for experienced surfers. The combined energy is very strong (1653 to 1662). This is a proper groundswell, and with that long period, expect powerful, well-shaped waves. But at this size (over 8ft), it’s for experts only. The reef setup should handle the long period well, but it will be powerful. Crowds are often here, so expect a few locals out.

The following day, Sunday the 6th of September, is still a decent option. The swell drops to 5ft from the North with an 11-second period, and the wind goes offshore from the ENE at 12 mph, keeping it clean. The energy is moderate (601). This is a good option for the slightly smaller crowd.

The second week gets a bit lumpy again. On Monday the 7th, the swell is 4ft from the NNW with a short 8-second period. Not great. Tuesday the 8th sees a 8ft East swell with a 7-second period and strong cross-off winds – looks more interesting for kite surfing than paddle surfing, as the short period and clean conditions will make it a bit bumpy. Wednesday the 9th has a massive 18ft swell from the NW with an 11-second period, but the wind is cross-shore, creating a messy chop. The energy is an extreme 6191. This is only for the most experienced, and it’s marginal at best due to the wind.

Thursday the 10th and Friday the 11th offer some hope. The swell drops to 10ft to 13ft from the North to NNW, with a long 11-second period. The wind goes cross-off from the SE, cleaning up the face. The energy is strong (2792 to 1532). These are good waves for experts, but the size is still big. It’s a promising end to the forecast, but it’s a long way out, so take it with a grain of salt.

Rusty.

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