Californias Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let’s get into it.

This next stretch is a proper mixed bag. We are looking at a real slow patch at the start, a few days of nothing worthwhile, and then a big pulse of energy arriving late in the window. You’re gonna need patience, but there is some serious potential hiding out there if you can wait for it.

The first real session worth mentioning is on Tuesday the 18th, but honestly, it’s a bit of a tease. Early morning we’ve got clean conditions with a light east cross-off breeze and a tiny 1 ft ENE swell. It’s small, but the water’s a warm 84°, which is bang on average for this time of year. The afternoon picks up to 3 ft but the period drops to 6 seconds – that’s just crumbly, weak stuff. Surfable, but you won’t be telling your mates about it.

Wednesday the 19th is more of the same, with a slightly bigger 4 ft swell but it’s still short-period and the wind is a bit more on it. The energy is moderate (139 combined), but the quality just isn't there. Then we hit a dead zone. From Thursday the 20th right through to Monday the 24th, it’s a blank run. It’s all risk of thunderstorms and cross-off winds, with next to no swell on the cards. The energy readings are near zero, so it’s a complete no-go. That’s a solid 5-day flat spell you’ll need to sit through.

Things start to stir again on Tuesday the 25th. The morning brings a cleaner 3 ft ENE swell with the period bumping up to 10 seconds, and a proper offshore ENE wind. It’s not big, but it’s clean, and the energy reading is a moderate 105. It’s a glance-over-the-shoulder kind of day, but not the main event.

Wednesday the 26th is still a bit wonky. The morning is flat, but the afternoon throws a curveball – a 6 ft NNE swell with a short 6-second period and onshore winds. Combined energy is moderate (255), but it’s not going to be pretty. That’s a pass.

Now, hold on to your boardies, because Thursday the 27th is where it goes off. Morning sees a solid 12 ft E swell, with a very long 16-second period. The energy is a massive 7997 – that’s strong, very strong. The wind is a light offshore N, so it’s going to be clean. This is a standout. This is for the experienced crew, no doubt. This is serious groundswell. The afternoon looks similar, with 12 ft E swell and a 15-second period, energy even higher at 9601. The wind swings to a cross-shore NNW, bringing in a little chop, but with that much juice behind it, it’s still going to be a session to remember. This is a proper, expert-only, big-wave day.

Friday the 28th is a letdown after that. The wind is onshore and strong, and even though the swell is big early (16 ft ENE), it’s messy and lumpy. Not worth it.

Saturday and Sunday the 29th and 30th drop right back off. The swell fades to tiny, and the wind is howling from the NNW. Just another flat-ish, windblown weekend.

Monday the 31st is a small clean-up of the leftover energy, with a 1 ft NE swell, but it’s nothing to write home about.

Then we get to the final piece. Tuesday the 1st and especially Wednesday the 2nd. The 2nd of September is another huge one. We’re looking at a 20 ft W swell with a solid 12-second period. The energy is off the charts at 9865. It’s another expert-only, massive groundswell. Morning winds are clean and offshore, but by afternoon they pick up strong from the N, so the morning is the call. This one’s a promise, but it’s still far out, so don’t book it in stone, but it has all the makings of a proper epic.

So there you have it. A whole lot of nothing, then two massive days that are only for the brave. If you're not an expert, sit these out. If you are, mark the 27th and the 2nd. The 27th is the more reliable of the two for now.

Rusty out.

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