Californias Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s happening at Californias over the next couple of weeks.

To be straight with you, the first week and a half is a tough one. We’re looking at a lot of days with tiny, weak swell and poor surf conditions. The water temperature is sitting at 83°, which is pretty much normal for this time of year, so at least you won't be cold while you're staring at flat waves.

The first real flicker of hope doesn't come until Wednesday afternoon, the 2nd of September, with a small 3ft swell from the E, but the period is a short 8 seconds and the combined energy is only moderate (119). The conditions are just ordinary, so it's not something to get excited about.

We then hit a real dry spell. From Thursday the 3rd up until the 8th of September, it’s a run of poor surf. The wind is mostly cross-off or offshore, but the swell is tiny and weak. The 6th of September has a pulse of energy on Sunday afternoon from the E with a long 14-second period, but it’s only 3ft and the conditions are described as marginal. The 7th of September has 3ft swells, but again, poor quality. It’s a frustrating wait.

Now, the true standout, and the one you’ve been waiting for, is the period starting on the 11th of September. This is the good stuff. On Friday the 11th, the swell jumps up to a massive 21ft from the NNW, with a long 11-second period. The combined energy is a colossal 9737, which is very strong. This is an expert-only situation – the wave height is well over 8ft, so it’s serious. The wind is light and cross-off from the ESE, keeping it clean. This is exceptional surf for those who know what they’re doing.

Saturday the 12th and Sunday the 13th of September continue the run of big, powerful swell. We’re seeing 13ft to 15ft waves from the NNW, with periods of 12 to 13 seconds, and combined energy values in the thousands. The wind stays light, with offshore or cross-off flows, which will keep the surface clean. This is a solid, multi-day swell event for experts.

The following Monday, the 14th of September, the swell starts to ease, dropping to 6ft to 6ft from the NNW. The wind is light offshore, and the conditions are expected to be good, making it a more manageable option for the advanced crew.

So, to sum it up: the first week is a write-off. The real action, the big one, is the window from the 11th to the 14th of September. If you’re an expert, that’s your time. For everyone else, keep an eye on the 14th when it drops back to a more approachable size.

Stay salty.
Rusty.

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