Californias Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, let’s have a look at what’s on the table for the next couple of weeks.

Right off the bat, we’ve got a bit of a flat spell, but there’s some decent stuff brewing later on. The first few days are pretty average, but don’t write it off just yet. The real interest is building towards the end of the second week.

Monday the 7th sees a bit of a pulse, but it’s messy. There’s a storm risk and a strong cross-offshore wind at 19 mph. The swell is 7 ft from the north, period 9 seconds, with moderate wave energy (744). The water is a warm 84°, which is about normal for this time of year. Honestly, it’s a bit of a write-off in the morning with that lumpy cross-chop, but the afternoon cleans up slightly. Still, not a session to get excited about.

Tuesday the 8th and Wednesday the 9th are similar – cross-shore winds and that same short-period NW swell, around 6 ft to 5 ft. The energy drops from moderate (518) to weak (217) by Wednesday. Not great, not terrible, just… ordinary.

Thursday the 10th is where we start to see a glimmer. Morning is clean but small at 4 ft from the north, but the afternoon brings in a light offshore breeze from the NE at 9 mph, and the swell bumps up to 4 ft with a 9-second period. The energy is still moderate (267). It’s a better option for the first week, but it’s not a standout.

Friday the 11th and Saturday the 12th are a step back – small, dropping energy, and inconsistent. The swell drops to 2 ft by Saturday morning, with a weak 80 energy. We’re in a lull now.

Sunday the 13th is a bit of a tease. The morning is tiny, but the afternoon sees a 3 ft east swell with a 7-second period, and light offshore winds. It’s surfable, but nothing special.

We then have a long gap of poor to ordinary conditions from Monday the 14th right through to Saturday the 20th. The swell is small, the wind is mostly cross-off or offshore, but the energy is low. Nothing to pack the board for.

Now, here’s the good bit. The real standout is Californias on Monday the 21st of September. We’ve got a clean, light offshore breeze from the ENE at 6 mph, with a 3 ft swell from the east. But listen to this – the period is 15 seconds, a proper long-period groundswell. The energy jumps to 294, which is moderate but the quality will be there. This is a reef break, and that long period will wrap in nicely, offering clean, lined-up waves. It’s a good option for experienced surfers, and the crowds are often around, so expect company.

But the absolute best of the whole forecast, and I mean the one to circle on the calendar, is Tuesday the 22nd of September. The swell builds to 5 ft in the morning, peaking at 5 ft in the afternoon, from the east. The period is a massive 20 seconds – that’s very long-period groundswell. The energy is through the roof (1566 in the morning, 1626 in the afternoon). Winds are light offshore or glassy from the NE. This is excellent surf conditions for experienced surfers. The reef at Californias will handle that long period beautifully, offering steep, powerful, clean waves. It’s the best of the lot by a long shot. Keep in mind, with that size and power, it’s not for beginners.

So, to sum it up: the first week is a bit of a wash, with a small window on Thursday afternoon. The second week is mostly flat until that beautiful burst of long-period east swell hits on the 21st and 22nd. That Tuesday is the call.

Rusty.

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