Californias Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here. Let’s be straight with you – this forecast for Californias is a tough one. The whole 16-day window looks like a write-off for decent paddle surfing. We’re looking at a long stretch of small, weak swell and messy conditions that just won’t line up. There are no standouts here.

We start the period on Sunday, September 6th, and right away it’s a miss. We’ve got 8ft of swell from the north, but it’s short period at 8 seconds and the wind is howling at 25 mph from the north, creating cross-offshore chaos. The combined swell energy is moderate at 857, but the surf is just poor. The water temp is 84°F, which is about average for this time of year.

Through the first week, into Monday and Tuesday, we see that north-northwest swell stick around at 5ft to 7ft, but the period stays short at 8 seconds, and winds remain a fresh cross-shore, killing any chance of quality. The energy drops into the hundreds, and every session gets marked as poor surf conditions. By Wednesday and Thursday, the swell fades fast to 4ft and under, with energy falling below 200. Thursday the 10th brings some easterly cross-offshore wind, but the waves are just too weak and disorganised.

There’s a tiny glimmer on Friday, September 11th afternoon, when we finally get a true offshore wind from the east at 16 mph and the swell is 2ft from the north. The energy is weak at 74, and it’s only a ‘surfable’ rating, not a standout. This is the best of a bad bunch – a small, clean wave for a log or a longboard if you’re desperate, but it’s nothing to get excited about. Crowds are likely at this reef, but with waves this small, you won’t be fighting for much.

That small window of offshore conditions continues into Saturday, September 12th, but the swell drops even smaller to 2ft with energy down to 83, and the poor rating is back. Sunday the 13th sees a tiny bump in easterly swell to 4ft, but it’s short period and the wind stays offshore, so you get clean but weak, ordinary surf. This pattern of small, clean but unexciting waves drags through the middle of the second week.

From around Wednesday, September 16th onward, the swell just gives up. We’re talking 2ft and below, with energy dropping into double digits by Friday the 18th. A long-period 13-second groundswell shows up on the 18th morning, but it’s only 0.7ft – that’s barely a ripple. The easterly winds are light and cross-offshore, keeping the water clean, but there’s nothing to ride.

Honestly, for this 16-day run, the setup is more interesting for kite surfing than paddle surfing when any significant swell does hit with those strong cross-shore winds. It’s a long, flat spell. For the reef at Californias, this is one of those times to leave the boards in the car and watch the horizon.

Rusty.

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