Californias Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, this is Rusty, and I'm looking at the outlook for one spot only: Californias. It's a reef break, and it's fairly consistent, but let's be honest about the next couple of weeks.

We're starting off with a bit of a flat spell. From now through the end of August and into the very start of September, it's pretty grim. We've got wind all over the place but not much swell to show for it. The water's sitting at a warm 84°F, which is about average for this time of year, so at least you won't need a thick suit if you're just floating around.

Friday the 6th of September is where things get interesting, but it comes with a warning. We see a big jump in size. Sunday morning the 6th, a solid 10ft swell from the WNW is forecast, with a moderate combined energy (1529). That's a big step up, and it's clean with offshore winds. However, the ocean is a bit angry with thunderstorms around and the period is only 8 seconds, so it's going to be a bit on the lumpy side. By Sunday afternoon, it's pumping – we're talking 16ft from the WNW and the energy is huge (5032). The wind stays cross-offshore so the faces will be clean, but that size is strictly for the experts. This is too big for anyone without serious experience.

Monday the 7th stays big, with 13ft from the WNW (energy 3009) in the morning and still clean, but by the afternoon the wind swings hard to the NNW at nearly 31 mph, which is going to trash it. After that, the swell drops and the wind turns onshore through the 8th and 9th, so we're back to messy surf.

Then, looking into the second week, there's a promising window. Starting Friday the 11th of September, the wind goes light and offshore from the NE. We see chest-to-head high waves around 5ft to 6ft from the NNW, with the energy sitting in the moderate range (293-362). The period is still not super long, but with those light offshore winds, the waves should be clean and have a bit of shape. It looks like a much more manageable and fun size for most surfers. Saturday the 12th keeps that same vibe with a 6ft swell from the N, and the energy picking up to 432. It's a clean, offshore day. This is the standout window.

So the call: The first week is for the big-wave chargers only, and even then, the wind on the 7th afternoon is nasty. The real highlight is that stretch from Friday the 11th through Saturday the 12th. That's where you want to be. The wind is off, the size is manageable, and the break should be clean. Crowds are possible here, but on a good day like that, it’s worth the company.

Rusty.

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