Big Rock Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Gotta be straight with you – this next stretch is a game of patience. We’ve got a solid run of swell, but the wind is going to be a proper pain in the arse for a few days. The good news is, once it cleans up, there’s some serious quality on offer.

Right now, and for the first few days, it’s a write-off. The wind is howling from the NW, cross-on at 12 to 25 mph, and the swell is a messy, lumpy 8ft to 10ft. Don’t even bother paddling out. The water temp is sitting at 66°F, which feels a touch warmer than normal for this time of year, but you won’t be feeling it from the couch.

The real story starts on Wednesday, August 26th. The swell is set to pump up to 16ft from the WSW, with a period of 17-18 seconds. That’s a big, long-period groundswell. The energy is absolutely cooking, with readings of 14,350 and 14,202. The problem is, the wind is still cross or cross-shore with a chop, and that size is for experts only. It’s a marginal call for the pros, but for the average surfer, it’s a no-go.

Now, hang in there. Thursday, August 27th is where it starts to get interesting. The wind swings around to the SSE, coming in as a clean cross-offshore breeze. The swell eases to a still-powerful 13ft to 12ft from the SW (period 15-14 seconds). The energy is still massive at 6,477. This is the first window of clean, rideable waves, but it’s still big. For the experienced crew, the morning session is the pick.

Then we get to the golden window. Friday, August 28th through Sunday, August 30th. The swell drops to a much more manageable 8ft to 10ft, and the wind stays light to gentle from the SSE and SE, keeping the surface clean. The water temp anomaly isn't given for these days, but the vibe is on. The standout here is Saturday, August 29th morning. You’ve got a 7ft SW swell with a 16-second period, and a light 6 mph breeze from the SE. The energy is still a solid 3,284, and the waves will be clean and lined up. Big Rock is a reef, so that long period (over 15 seconds) is a bonus – it will focus the energy beautifully. The water is a touch warmer than normal, so you can leave the thick wetsuit at home. Keep in mind, crowds are possible here, so get in early.

The following week from Monday, September 1st onwards has some more clean windows, but the swell is smaller. Wednesday, September 2nd is worth a mention – a 7ft to 6ft SW swell, period of 13 seconds, with glassy, clean conditions thanks to a light SSE breeze. Perfect for a longboard or a funboard. After that, the wind starts to get messy again, and the swell stays in the 10ft to 13ft range with choppy, cross-on winds, so the quality drops off.

If you’re looking for the best of the best, it’s Saturday, August 29th morning. That’s the one to circle on the calendar. Big Rock will be handling the long-period SW swell like a champ, and the light offshore wind will have it looking like a postcard.

Rusty.

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