Aileen's Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Righto, let’s have a look at what’s coming up for Aileen’s. This is a proper reef setup, exposed to the west-southwest, and it’s a spot that doesn’t fire often—inconsistent is the word. It’s a heavy one, built for advanced surfers only, and when it’s on, it’s a world-class wave. But we’ve got a long stretch of waiting ahead.

The forecast kicks off Wednesday the 29th of July, but honestly, don’t even bother paddling out. We’re looking at a tiny 3 ft swell from the west, a weak 8-second period, and a cross-on 19 mph wind from the southwest. The water is sitting at 62°—pretty much what you’d expect for this time of year. The combined energy is a low 134, and the report says it’s poor surf conditions. That theme sticks around for days. Thursday and Friday are much the same: small, weak, and messy. By Saturday the 1st of August, the swell drops to 1 ft, and it’s tiny and gutless. Sunday the 2nd brings a bit of an offshore breeze from the east-northeast, but the swell is only 1 ft with a 10-second period—clean, but barely a ripple.

The whole first week is a write-off. There’s a gap of about 10 days with no real surf to speak of. Then we finally get a pulse around Friday the 7th of August. This is where it gets interesting. The swell jumps to 12 ft from the west, with a 10-second period, and the combined energy is a massive 2016. That’s powerful, proper groundswell. But the wind is onshore from the west-northwest, and the report flags it as marginal—questionable tide conditions. It’s a big, lumpy beast, only for experts. Saturday the 8th is better with a 7 ft swell from the west, a 9-second period, and a cross-off wind from the east-southeast at 16 mph. The energy is 668, still strong, and the wind is clean. That’s a standout session if you’re skilled and hungry.

Sunday the 9th of August looks like the best on offer. The swell is 5 ft from the west-northwest, a long 11-second period, and the wind is light from the east-southeast, creating clean conditions. The combined energy is 452, moderate, but the quality is there. It’s a reef, so that long period will work well. The break is exposed, and the optimum swell direction is west-southwest, so it’s a decent match. Expect a clean, solid wave for the advanced crew. Crowds are often an issue here, so be prepared for company.

Beyond that, the swell fades quickly. Monday the 10th drops to 3 ft and ordinary conditions. After that, it’s back to tiny, weak surf for the rest of the window. So, if you’re chasing the best, your window is Saturday the 8th and Sunday the 9th of August. The standout is Sunday morning—light offshore, clean, and a proper long-period groundswell. That’s the one to circle.

Rusty

Read more