Aileen's Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s talk about what’s happening at Aileen's over the next couple of weeks. It’s a bit of a rough start, but if you’re patient, there’s a session that’s got my attention.

Right off the bat, we’ve got a lot of noise and not much fun. The first week is a write-off. Strong winds, mostly onshore or cross-onshore, ramming into a solid but messy swell. Friday the 4th is a complete no-go with a 12ft W swell, but a howling 28 mph wind has it blown to bits. The combined energy is massive at 3274, but it’s just raw power with no soul. It’s not for paddling, it’s for kiting. That pattern sticks around: Saturday and Sunday are still suffering from strong breeze and fresh breeze, keeping the surface lumpy and ugly. By Monday the 7th, we’re still looking at 8ft to 10ft swell, but those winds refuse to let up. It’s not until the tail end of the next week that things finally shift.

The real standout I’m eyeing is Saturday the 12th. That morning looks like a window of magic. The swell drops to a clean 4ft from the WNW, the period stretches out to a nice long 11 seconds, and the wind goes fully offshore from the ENE at just 6 mph. The water is going to be smooth as glass. The combined energy reading is 517, which is solid, moderate energy for the size. This is a reef break that loves a long period, and with that direction matching the optimum, it’s going to be lined up and delicious. It’s a spot that’s inconsistent, so when it comes together like this, you don’t want to miss it. Keep in mind it’s an advanced wave, and the crowds are possible here, so expect company.

The following morning, Sunday the 13th, is also worth a mention. It’s a bit smaller at 5ft from the W, with a light cross-offshore breeze and clean conditions. The energy is 407. It’s a solid runner-up, but not quite the first choice.

After that, the second week gets messy again. A couple of 10ft days on the 14th with gusts pushing 19 mph, and then it fades off into smaller, choppy slop. Wind stays onshore or cross-onshore for just about everything, and the swell loses its period. The last few days into the 19th drop below 3ft, and it’s just not worth the paddle.

So, the takeaway is this: the first week is a washout. We’ve got a gap of about 8 days of poor conditions before that Saturday the 12th shows up. That’s your one. Get out there for the morning glass-off, because it’s going to be a special window. After that, the window closes again.

Stay sharp.

Rusty.

Read more