Aileen's Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s cookin’ for Aileen's over the next sixteen days.

Right off the bat, I gotta be straight with you – it's a grim stretch for this spot. We’ve got a solid sixteen-day window, but the first few days are a write-off. The wind is nasty, onshore or cross-onshore, and the waves are all over the place. The water is a touch warmer than usual for this time of year at 62°F, which is nice, but it won't make up for the blown-out, lumpy conditions. The first couple of days are a total no-go, with poor surf conditions and scores of zero.

Thursday morning (September 5th) we finally see a little pulse of life. There’s a 5ft W swell with a 10-second period, but it’s still a cross-shore wind making it choppy. It’s marginal at best. The combined energy is a moderate 537, but it’s not clean enough to get excited about.

Then it gets big. Really big. Friday the 6th through Tuesday the 10th, we see a massive W swell pushing through, with sizes hitting 12ft and energy readings jumping into the thousands (3309 on Friday morning!). This is pure, raw power. But here’s the kicker – it’s all onshore wind. Straight on. Strong breeze and near-gale strength winds are going to turn that big swell into a washing machine. This is strictly for the big-wave chargers, and even then, it’s gonna be a battle. The wave period is 11-12 seconds, so it’s got some proper groundswell grunt, but the wind is the killer.

After that peak, it drops off fast. From Wednesday the 11th onward, the energy fades to weak, with readings dropping below 100 (58 on Thursday morning, 47 on Friday). The swell shrinks right down to under 3ft. The wind gets better – light and cross-offshore – so the ocean will look clean, but there’ll be bugger-all wave to ride.

Looking further out, there’s a little blip on the radar around Sunday the 15th, with another W swell building to 7ft and energy back up to 907, but once again, the wind is cross-onshore and lumpy. It won’t be a classic.

So, the one true standout? You'd have to be a hardcore expert looking for a beatdown, but the Friday the 6th morning swell (12ft W) has insane energy at 3309, and while the wind is onshore, it’s the most powerful swell of the period. For anyone else, this is a tough call. Honestly, with that much swell and poor quality, this setup looks more interesting for kite surfing than paddle surfing.

Keep an eye on the forecast, but for now, it’s a long wait.

Rusty.

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