Aileen's Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, this is Rusty, and I gotta be straight with you – the next two weeks are a proper mixed bag around here, and you’ll want to hold your horses for the good stuff.

At Aileen's, this spot is a heavy, advanced, inconsistent reef break that isn't for the faint of heart. Look, the next ten days or so are pretty much a write-off. A long gap of poor conditions until the third week of the month. We’re looking at a lot of crummy, onshore wind slop and messy, lumpy surf. A few mornings early on will have clean-ish wave faces, but the wind is nearly always ruining it or the quality is just flat out poor. It’s gonna be a tough wait.

Then, finally, we get a real shift around the 21st. That’s Monday the 21st of September. The morning kicks off sunny, with a clean, light, offshore wind from the northeast at 9 mph. You’ve got a 5.6 ft swell from the west with a nice long period of 12 seconds – proper groundswell energy (841). By the afternoon the wind drops even more, swinging to an offshore, glassy light airflow. The swell holds at 5.6 ft from the west with that same 12-second period (814). It’s clean, organised, and this is the standout of the whole run. Go get it.

The real hammer, but only for the experts, comes on Tuesday the 22nd. The swell bumps up to a solid 8.2 ft from the west, but the period stretches out further to a very long 13–14 seconds (2199). The wind is clean and light, either offshore or light cross-off from the east-southeast. This is a big, powerful, long-period swell – these waves will have serious energy and long lulls between sets. On a reef break like this, that means heavy, pitching waves. This is absolutely only for experienced surfers on the right craft.

After that, the swell drops back but stays clean for Wednesday the 23rd, with 6.9 ft swell from the west (1248) and offshore/light winds. It's still excellent, but a step down in size from the day before.

For the last few days of the outlook, from Thursday the 24th, it all fades away to small, short-period, messy leftovers. Not worth paddling out for.

So, to sum it up: don’t bother for the first week and a half. The absolute pick is Monday the 21st for the combination of clean, offshore wind and a clean 5.6 ft groundswell. The biggest, most serious, expert-only session is Tuesday the 22nd.

Catch you out there.

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