Aileen's Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here. Let's chew the fat on what’s shakin' for Aileen's over the next couple of weeks. This is a heater of a reef that only wakes up when everything lines up, so you gotta be patient.

We’re starting off with a real flat, blown-out mess. From Monday, September 14th, all the way through the end of the month, it’s mostly poor. The swell’s there – from the WSW – but the wind is a total buzzkill. Cross-onshore, onshore, you name it. Moderate to strong breezes out of the SSE and WNW are just wrecking any chance of a clean face. The wave energy goes from moderate on Monday afternoon (312) to real strong later that week (up to 3829 late Thursday the 17th), but none of it matters because it’s all messy. When the swell gets up to 8ft to 11ft with that wind, you’re better off on a kite than a log. This is a kite-surfing show, not a paddle-out. Don’t even think about it on the 17th or 18th – it’ll be a nightmare.

The water’s at 62°F, which is a touch warmer than usual for the season. Small comfort when the conditions are so raw.

Now, hold on to your board. The real standout comes on Thursday, September 24th. You get a clear sky, a light SE breeze that’s cross-off. By the afternoon, it’s glassy. The swell is a solid 7ft from the west, with a very long period of 14 seconds, stretching up to 18 seconds in the morning (911 energy) and holding strong (1653 energy) in the afternoon. That is pure groundswell – perfect for a reef. This is for experienced surfers only; over 5ft with that power means it’s too much for beginners. But if you’re advanced, this is the one. The waves will be clean, powerful, and lined up. Long waits between sets, but when they come, they’re worth it.

The days around it – the 23rd and 25th – have smaller, cleaner waves too (2ft on Wednesday morning, 4ft on Friday morning), but they’re just ordinary. The real gold is that Thursday afternoon session.

After that, it’s back to the same old story for the rest of the month. The 28th and 29th are typical onshore rubbish – moderate to strong breezes messing up the swell. No silver linings there.

So here’s the deal: Aileen's is a fickle beast, and this forecast proves it. A long stretch of garbage, one perfect, clean, powerful day on the 24th, and then back to slop. Don’t waste your time on the rest.

Rusty.

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