Inchydoney Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s in store for Inchydoney over the next couple of weeks.

Right off the bat, I gotta be straight with you – this forecast is a tough one. For the first week, the surf and the wind just aren't playing nice together. We’ve got swell around, but it’s coming in with a lot of cross-on and onshore wind, which makes a mess of things. The water temp is sitting at 64°F, which is a touch warmer than normal for this time of year, but that’s small comfort when the waves are choppy and lumpy.

We are looking at a long, quiet stretch here. From Wednesday, the 2nd of September, all the way through to Wednesday the 9th, the conditions are labelled as poor. There’s wave energy, but with those cross-on winds and short periods around 7 seconds, it’s just won’t offer much shape. The combined energy on the 2nd is moderate at 261 and 374, but it’s useless with that 30 km/h wind (19 mph). The wind eases a bit on the 4th, turning cross-off, and the waves get clean, but the swell is small – only 3 ft to 4 ft. It’s surfable, but nothing to write home about.

The real standout, the one that’s got a bit of life in it, is looking like Thursday the 10th of September. The morning is looking promising with a gentle offshore wind from the N at 15 km/h (9 mph), and the swell is 3 ft from the SW, with a period of 9 seconds. The combined energy is moderate at 204, and the conditions are described as “gentle offshore and clean.” That’s the kind of morning you can get a few soulful ones. The afternoon picks up a bit more size to 5 ft, same SW direction, but with a light cross-off breeze. That’s still very clean, but be aware that because this break is a river mouth, it can be inconsistent, and crowds are sometimes a factor here. If you’ve got a log or a fish, for the morning, you’ll be happy.

Then we’ve got Friday the 11th of September. The morning at Inchydoney is shaping up to be the best of the whole run. The swell is 6 ft from the WSW with a moderate period of 9 seconds, and the wind is a slight air from the ENE at 5 km/h (3 mph), making it clean. The combined energy is strong at 516 (three digits, so moderate energy, but it feels punchy). This is a solid, clean wave with a bit of push. The afternoon falls apart with a cross-on wind, so get out early.

After that, it’s back to the doldrums for a few days. The wind picks up again, and the swell is choppy or crossed up. The next real potential is a long way out – Tuesday the 16th of September. That morning we’re looking at a 10 ft swell from the SSW, but with a period of only 8 seconds. That’s a lot of water moving fast, and the combined energy is a massive 1310 (four digits, very strong wave energy). The wind is cross-off from the WNW at 25 km/h (16 mph), so it’ll be clean. But 10 ft with a short period is a freight train, not a gentle wave. That’s expert-only territory, and for a river mouth, that short period will make it sectiony and tricky. Not for the faint of heart. The afternoon is still big at 7 ft, but the wind is stronger.

So, to wrap it up: the 10th and 11th are your best bets, with the 11th morning being the clear standout. The 16th is a big, powerful, and dangerous option for the experienced crew only. The rest of the month is a write-off for clean, rideable waves.

Rusty.

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