The Heads Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let’s break this down for The Heads. I’ve been staring at the charts, and there’s some decent action if you know when to go. There are gaps, too, so let’s be smart about it.

The first surf worth mentioning kicks off Monday, September 7th, but it’s not worth paddling out. A 7-foot swell from the SSW with a long 14-second period and moderate wave energy. That’s okay on paper, but the cross-shore wind and choppy surface will ruin it. Tide conditions are poor. Skip it.

Tuesday, September 8th, the morning is the first real chance. The wind goes glassy, pushing a clean 5-foot swell from the E with a 9-second period. The energy is moderate, but that glassy wind makes it worthwhile. It won’t be a classic, but it’ll be clean. The afternoon is spoiled by an onshore breeze, so get in the water early.

The rest of the week is a slow burn until we hit Thursday, September 10th. And this, right here, is one of the two standout windows in the forecast. The morning has a solid 6-foot swell from the SSW, and the period is a very long 17 seconds. That’s a proper groundswell with strong energy. The wind is glassy - absolutely perfect conditions. The water temp is about average for this time of year, nothing crazy. The Heads is a sandbar, so it’s always a bit fickle, but with a long-period groundswell like this, it should open up. Crowds are possible, but a Thursday morning should thin them out. This is the best bet in the first week.

Friday, September 11th, is your second real standout. Another glassy start, this time with a 6-foot swell from the SW and a 13-second period. The energy is strong. The conditions are clean and excellent for experienced surfers. The afternoon will see some cross-shore bumps, so hit it early.

The weekend starts rough on Saturday the 12th with strong cross-winds and a messy surface. Sunday, September 13th, makes up for it. A glassy morning with a 7-foot SW swell, 14-second period, and very high energy (2899). This is the proper goods. The afternoon stays clean with a cross-off breeze. This session is as good as it gets.

From Monday the 14th through Tuesday the 15th, the quality drops off. There are some marginal windows, but the wind and chop make them hard to recommend. Tuesday afternoon has a 10-foot SW swell with massive energy (3870), but the cross-shore wind and chop will make it ugly.

Then we hit a massive spike. September 18th and 19th are out of control for paddle surfer. We’ve got 15-foot to 16-foot swells from the ESE with enormous energy. The wind is glassy, but that is a massive, dangerous amount of water. The Heads will be shut down, and it’s only for experts or, more likely, kite surfers to enjoy. Stay on the beach for this one.

Finally, Sunday, September 20th, the morning brings a nice reset. A 6-foot SW groundswell with a 15-second period, glassy wind, and high energy. It’s a clean, powerful session to finish the run.

So here’s the takeaway: the absolute best sessions on offer are the morning of Thursday, September 10th (6ft, very long period, glassy) and the morning of Sunday, September 13th (7ft, long period, glassy). Those are the ones I’d drive for. The rest is a waiting game with some big but wild days in between.

This is Rusty, signing off. Get out there and get some.

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