The Heads Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s on the menu for The Heads over the next couple of weeks.

Right off the bat, we’re looking at a sketchy start. The first few days are a bit of a write-off – Tuesday through Wednesday we’ve got some solid swell in the 7 ft to 8 ft range from the SW, but it’s coming in with a cross or cross-on wind, leaving it choppy and messy. The water is a nippy 57°, which is a whopping 6° colder than normal for this time of year, so you’ll want a thick steamer if you’re even thinking about paddling out. The energy is strong, with readings around 1493 to 2008, but it’s just not clean. The forecast scores reflect that – it’s marginal at best.

Now, let’s talk about the real standout. Thursday morning, August 20th is the one to circle. The Heads will be firing with a solid 12 ft SSW swell, and the wind is forecast to be glassy – dead calm. That’s the kind of morning that gets the heart racing. The combined energy is a massive 4109, meaning there’s a ton of power in the water. However, this is a big boy swell. At 12 ft, this is expert territory only. If you’re not comfortable in heavy waves, sit this one out and watch from the bank. The wind is perfect, but the size is no joke.

After that, Thursday afternoon drops to 10 ft but the wind swings cross-on, so it’ll get a bit lumpy. Friday sees the swell drop back to 7 ft with a cross-on wind, and it stays pretty average.

Saturday the 22nd is a mixed bag. The morning is small and weak at 5 ft, not worth paddling for. But Saturday afternoon? The wind cranks up to 19 mph from the WSW, and the swell jumps back to 12 ft. The energy is a strong 2315, but it’s a bumpy, lumpy mess with that fresh cross-shore wind. That’s more of a kite-surfing setup than a clean paddle session.

Sunday morning, August 23rd is another big one: 12 ft SW swell with glassy wind again. The energy is even higher at 3741. Again, this is for experts only. If you’re experienced and want a clean, powerful wave, this is your window. The swell is coming from a strong direction and the period of 13 seconds means it’ll have some serious push.

The middle of the week (Monday 24th) sees the swell drop to a more manageable 5 ft to 6 ft, but the wind is still cross-on, so the quality isn’t there.

Looking further out, Tuesday morning, August 25th brings a 8 ft SW swell with a 14-second period and an offshore wind. That’s a nice combo – clean, long-period groundswell. The energy is 2486. This one is promising.

Then we get to Wednesday morning, August 26th. The swell is 7 ft from the ESE, but the period is a short 8 seconds. However, the wind is a clean cross-offshore from the ENE, and the report says it’s excellent for experienced surfers. The energy is still a strong 1805. It’s a different direction, so it might offer a bit of a different bank, but the short period means it won’t have the same punch as the SW groundswells.

The following week is a bit of a mixed bag. Sunday morning, August 30th has a notable 8 ft SSW swell with a very long 17-second period and offshore wind – energy is a massive 4011. That’s a deep-water groundswell, perfect for a point or reef, but at a beach break like The Heads, that long period can make the waves break a bit too straight and fat. Still, clean and big.

The very end of the forecast window, Monday morning, September 1st, is looking glassy again with a 8 ft SW swell and a 15-second period, and the energy is 3592. That’s another expert-level morning with perfect conditions.

Overall, the best surfing on offer is Thursday morning, August 20th and Sunday morning, August 23rd for the big, clean, glassy power. The later dates around August 30th and September 1st are promising but a bit further out – keep an eye on the forecasts. There’s a lot of big swell in this window, so if you’re not an expert, you’ll be waiting for the smaller, cleaner windows that are harder to find.

Stay safe out there.

Rusty

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