The Heads Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here, let’s break this down.

The Heads are a sandbar setup, fairly consistent, and we’ve got a solid block of surf coming through, but you gotta pick your windows. The water temp is at 62°F, which is about normal for this time of year – nothing wild.

Okay, so Monday the 10th kicks it off, but honestly, it’s a write-off. We’ve got 8ft of SW swell, but it’s coming with rain and a moderate breeze onshore, so it’s a messy, marginal mess. Score it as a miss.

Tuesday the 11th doesn’t get much better. The swell drops a touch to 7ft from the SSW, but we’ve got a moderate cross-shore wind that’s just chopping it all up. Not worth getting wet.

Now, Wednesday the 12th morning is the first real standout. The swell sits at 5ft from the SSW, but the period jumps to 20 seconds – that’s a proper, long-period groundswell. The wind is a gentle cross-offshore breeze, leaving it clean. The combined energy is a solid 2523 (moderate wave energy), so there’s push behind it. This one’s for experienced surfers; the longer period will set up nicely on this sandbar, but expect longer lulls between sets. It’s the best on offer so far.

Thursday the 13th looks good too, with clean conditions off a gentle cross-offshore breeze and 6ft to 7ft swell from the SSW/SW, but Wednesday morning is the pick.

Friday the 14th is a gem. Morning has 5ft of SW swell with a light offshore wind – clean, fun waves. Then Friday afternoon goes glassy, with the wind dropping to zero and 4ft of clean SW groundswell. That’s the kind of session you remember. The combined energy is 1078 (weak to moderate), but the conditions make it punch above its weight. Crowds *sometimes* show here, so that’s a heads-up.

Saturday the 15th keeps the glassy trend in the afternoon, with 4ft from the SW. It’s small but clean. Sunday the 16th has another glassy afternoon window.

Then we hit a rough patch. Monday the 17th brings a jump to 8-8ft SW swell, but with cross and cross-onshore winds, it’s lumpy. Tuesday the 18th is similar but smaller. Wednesday the 19th through Thursday the 20th is poor – rain, choppy winds, and weak energy. A real gap of a few days with nothing to recommend.

But hold tight. Friday the 21st morning is another standout. The swell jumps to 10ft from the ESE, period 9 seconds, with a light cross-offshore breeze leaving it clean. The combined energy is 1856 (moderate). That’s a solid, clean, powerful wave. At 10ft, it’s definitely expert territory – too much for beginners – and the shorter period means it’ll be a bit lumpy at the sandbar, but the wind will hold it open. This is the best wave of the whole period.

Saturday the 22nd and Sunday the 23rd drop back to marginal or onshore conditions.

Then Monday the 24th sees another pulse: 10ft from the SW with a moderate cross-shore breeze. Combined energy is a hefty 4224-4242, which is strong wave energy. It’s rideable but a bit cross-chop.

Finally, Tuesday the 25th gets big: 12ft from the SW with a gentle cross-shore breeze. The combined energy hits 4847 – very strong. The file says the swell is predicted to be too big for this break, so that’s strictly for the brave and skilled only. Definitely expert zone.

So the true standouts? Wednesday 12th morning for that long-period, clean groundswell, and Friday 21st morning for the biggest, cleanest swell of the run. Call ‘em as I see ‘em.

Rusty.

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