The Heads Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what The Heads has got cookin’ for us over the next couple of weeks.

Right off the bat, it’s a bit of a slow start. We’ve got some swell, but the quality is pretty average for the first few days. The real standout window is looking like Saturday the 12th and then again early the following week. The combined swell energy is strong, reaching over 3500 (moderate to strong wave energy) at its best, so there’s plenty of push, but you’ve gotta pick your moments.

The Heads (sandbar) is a fairly consistent spot, fairly exposed to the swell. The water temp is about average for this time of year, so no surprises there.

Sunday, September 6th kicks off with an 8.2ft SSW swell but with a strong 15.5 mph cross-shore wind from the east. It’s messy with a cross-chop and the combined energy is high at 4932 (strong wave energy), but the conditions are poor. Not one for the board.

Monday, September 7th sees the swell drop to 6.9ft from the SSW, period a long 14 seconds. The wind goes light and cross-shore in the morning, but the surf is still just marginal. The afternoon gets a cross-onshore breeze, so it’s not cleaning up.

Tuesday, September 8th the swell drops right off, down to 4.6ft from the east with a short period of 9 seconds. The energy drops to 707 (weak to moderate). It’s a small, weak day.

Wednesday, September 9th is a write-off. Swell is tiny, 2.3ft, and the conditions are poor. Not worth paddling out.

Thursday, September 10th the swell bumps back up to 6.9ft from the SW with a 16-second period, but the wind is light cross-onshore. The energy is moderate at 2260, but the wind is just enough to put a wrinkle on it.

Friday, September 11th is similar, 5.9ft SW swell, but onshore winds and rain showers make it a messy one.

Now, Saturday, September 12th – this is the first real highlight. The morning is a bit iffy with rain and a light cross-on, but the afternoon? Glassy. The swell is 6.9ft from the SSW, with a long 16-second period and a combined energy of 3540 (strong wave energy). The description says "excellent surf conditions for experienced surfers." That’s clean, lined-up, powerful groundswell. For an experienced surfer, this is your best bet in the first week. The 8ft+ size is solid but not overwhelming for a confident intermediate to expert. Keep in mind the long period means it’ll be a bit walled up, so a sandbar might not be the best, but when it’s glassy, it’s a goer.

Sunday, September 13th is a letdown after that. The swell jumps to 9.8ft in the afternoon, but the period collapses to just 7 seconds. That’s short-period wind swell with a strong cross-on wind. The energy is still moderate at 1459, but it’s going to be lumpy and unruly.

Monday, September 14th morning is another great window. Glassy conditions, 5.2ft SSW swell with a 13-second period, and a combined energy of 1352 (moderate). The report says "excellent surf conditions for experienced surfers." This is a cleaner, more manageable size than Saturday, and the glassy wind makes it a joy.

Tuesday, September 15th morning – glassy again, with an 8.2ft SW swell, 12-second period, and energy of 2306 (moderate to strong). This is another standout for the second week. The wind is perfect, and the size is a fun, punchy wave. Afternoon goes onshore, so get it early.

Wednesday, September 16th – a big jump. 9.8ft to 11.5ft SW swell, but the wind is a fresh 18.6 mph cross-shore, then 12.4 mph cross. The energy is massive (4307 and 4556, very strong). The report says the afternoon is "too big for this break." At 11.5ft, this is a total washout for a sandbar, even for experts. The cross-shore wind will make it a washing machine. Probably more interesting for the kite crew.

Thursday, September 17th is still big, 9.8ft SSW,

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