The Heads Surf Forecast and Surf Report

G’day, Rusty here, and let’s talk about The Heads. Over the next couple of weeks, there’s some serious energy in the water, but you’ve gotta pick your moments. The water is running at 57°, which is a massive 6° colder than normal for this time of year—so you’ll want a thick wetsuit and booties before you even think about paddling out. It’s a story of one massive day for the brave, then a lot of average stuff, with a couple of glassy gems hiding late in the forecast.

First real swell hits on Thursday the 20th: a chunky 12ft SW groundswell with a 13-second period, and combined energy at a whopping 4447—that’s strong. Problem is, that’s too big for most of us. Over 8ft, it’s experts-only, and with a light cross-onshore wind out of the WSW at 3 mph, it’ll be a bumpy ride even for the good guys. If you’re a charger and the tide falls right, go for it—otherwise, sit this one out.

From Friday the 21st through Monday the 25th, it’s a real grind. Swells between 5ft and 8ft, mostly SW, with cross to cross-onshore winds and energy bouncing between 730 and 2032. Moderate to strong, sure, but it’s all a bit messy. The water’s still freezing, and the chop will keep things from properly lining up. You can paddle out if you’re keen, but it’s nothing to write home about.

Then we get to Wednesday the 26th, early morning. That’s the one to circle. A 6ft SW swell, 13-second period, and the wind goes dead glassy out of the SW at 3 mph. Energy is 1161, and the call is “expect very good surf conditions.” That’s the kind of session where you might have it all to yourself and the waves will be clean, user-friendly fun. Then Thursday the 27th late afternoon, another glassy window: 5ft SSE swell with a very long 14-second period, and energy at 1406. Long-period groundswell from the SSE wraps in nicely at The Heads, giving long, clean lines. It’s described as excellent for experienced surfers, and with no wind, it’ll be a treat.

Looking into the end of the month, Monday the 31st of August, Monday morning is a big standout: 7ft SW swell with a very long 16-second period, light cross-offshore wind out of the ENE at 3 mph, and energy at 2340. That’s a clean, powerful session for the experienced crew—just get out early before the wind jumps to a howling 19 mph cross-shore in the afternoon. Also, Sunday the 30th morning offers 6ft Easterly swell with a short 7-second period, but it’s glassy—easy, clean fun if you want a mellow paddle.

The standout days? Thursday the 20th for the brave, and the glassy mornings of the 26th and 27th for everyone else. There’s a long stretch of mediocre stuff in between, so don’t waste your energy on the slop. Pick those clean windows and you’ll score.

Rusty out.

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