Onjuku Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let's get stuck into what's heading our way for Onjuku.

The next couple of weeks are a bit of a mixed bag, but we’ve got some real magic lurking in the second week to get excited about. The early part of the period is a write-off, but hang in there.

Monday the 7th is a total no-go. Onjuku is getting hammered by a strong southerly wind and a solid 10ft S swell, but the energy is all over the shop (1647) and the wind is blowing straight onshore. The water is a warm 82°, which is a touch warmer than normal for this time of year, but that won't help you with the terrible conditions. That westerly pattern sticks around through Tuesday the 8th, Wednesday the 9th, and Thursday the 10th, with onshore and cross-onshore winds keeping the surf messy and blown-out. A few small windows of clean conditions appear on Thursday, but the swell is weak and short-period.

Friday the 11th and Saturday the 12th finally see a little relief. A light offshore wind from the north on Friday will clean up the tiny 2ft E swell, but it's a super long 14-second period with low energy (183). It’s surfable, but you’ll be working for it. Saturday is similar, just a bit more onshore. The whole first week is a grind, with just small, weak, and inconsistent waves about.

Now, you’ll want to mark your calendar for the weekend starting Saturday the 19th. After a long gap of mediocre conditions, things start to look up. On Saturday the 19th, a clean 5ft swell from the ENE (212) with a light offshore wind from the north in the morning. The afternoon is looking glassy, with a slight offshore breeze. That’s your best windows of the first real run.

But the real standout is Monday the 21st of September. This is a big, long-period groundswell from the SE with a period of 18 seconds and a massive amount of energy (3268 in the morning, 5223 in the afternoon). Sizes climb from 6ft up to 8ft. The wind is a clean cross-offshore from the NE, keeping it tidy. This is the kind of swell that has real power, and with that period, it’ll be proper at Onjuku’s exposed banks. The only downside? It’s a week and a half away, so treat it as a promising call, but don’t book the week off just yet.

Now, a word of caution for Tuesday the 22nd. The models are showing a massive 13ft ESE swell with a 17-second period and energy readings over 9000. That is way too big for Onjuku. The wind is favorable, but unless you’re a tow-in expert, this is a "stay on the beach and watch" kind of day. It’s strictly for the pros.

So, to wrap it up: the first week is a washout. Saturday the 19th is a nice little warm-up. Monday the 21st is the one to chase, with a solid, powerful groundswell and clean conditions. Get keen.

Rusty.

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