Onjuku Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s on the cards for Onjuku over the next couple of weeks.

To be straight with you, the first few days are a bit of a write-off. We’ve got some small waves on Wednesday, 2nd September, with an ESE breeze messing things up. Winds are light, but cross-on, and the swell is a weak 3 ft to 3 ft from the ESE with a short period of 10 seconds. The combined energy is low (205-275), so it’s just not worth paddling out for. Thursday and Friday are even worse – rain, onshore winds, and barely a ripple. Saturday and Sunday see a bit of a bump in size, but the wind is howling from the NE at 25 mph, so it’s messy and choppy. Best to leave the board in the car.

Then, on Monday morning, 7th September, things start to get interesting. The wind drops to a light breeze from the NE, swinging cross-offshore, and the wave height is a solid 6 ft from the E with a 7-second period. The combined energy jumps to 585 (moderate), and the wave comment says “expect very good surf conditions.” This is a standout window. The setup looks clean, but the period is short, so it might be a bit crumbly. Still, if you’re out there early, it could be worth it.

But hold onto your leash, because the real action is on Wednesday, 9th September. The swell is big – 13 ft in the morning, 12 ft in the afternoon – from the SSE with a period of 10-11 seconds, and the combined energy is through the roof (3822-5395). That’s strong wave energy. However, the wind is cross-on from the SSE to SE, so it’s going to be choppy. The file says the swell is too big for this break, so this is strictly for experts only. If you’re not comfortable in heavy, powerful surf, stay on the sand. The tide and wind are favorable in terms of direction, but the size is the limiting factor.

After that, the swell drops back but stays in the 7 ft to 8 ft range through to the 12th, with periods getting longer (12-13 seconds). The wind is light from the E to ESE, mostly cross-shore, so the waves will have some shape. The combined energy is still moderate to strong (1060-1483). The 12th of September looks like a decent option for intermediates, with clean conditions and a solid 7 ft from the SSE.

Into the second week, the swell hangs around 5 ft to 7 ft, but the wind picks up again from the ENE and ESE, making it lumpy. The 15th of September sees another big pulse from the SE – 12 ft with a 13-14 second period – but the wind is onshore from the S and SSE, so it’s messy and unknown quality. Only for the brave.

The 17th of September morning looks a bit better: 5 ft from the SE at 11 seconds, with a cross-offshore NE breeze at 16 mph. The combined energy is 1534 (strong), and the waves should be clean. A solid option for a session.

Bottom line: The standout is Monday morning, 7th September, for cleaner conditions if you can handle the short period. The big one on 9th September is for experts only. The 12th September afternoon is your best bet for a fun, manageable session with a bit of length to the swell.

This is Rusty, signing off. Keep your eyes on the horizon.

Read more