Onjuku Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here, and I’ve got the lowdown for Onjuku. Let’s be straight with you, it’s a bit of a slow starter this period, but there’s some serious meat on the bone later on if you’re patient.

The first week is pretty grim, to be honest. We’ve got a real dry spell from Wednesday the 19th through to Sunday the 23rd of August. The swell is tiny, barely breaking 3 ft, and the wind is all over the shop – mostly cross-onshore or onshore. It’s choppy, messy, and just not worth a paddle. The combined wave energy is weak, reading between 82 and 303 (moderate on the high end), but the wind just kills it. You’re better off staying on the beach.

Then, things start to shift. On Monday the 24th of August, we finally see a pulse of energy. The morning is looking good with a clean 4 ft swell from the SSE, with a long 14-second period. The wind is light and cross-offshore, making for glassy conditions. The combined energy jumps to 677 (moderate), and the forecast is calling for very good surf. The water temp is a balmy 80°, which is spot on average for this time of year, so you’ll be fine in a shorty.

That swell builds through Tuesday the 25th, hitting 7 ft from the SSE, but the wind swings onshore and the tide gets tricky. It’s a bit of a mixed bag – the size is there, but the quality drops. For the experienced crew, the big numbers are coming on Wednesday the 26th of August. We’re looking at a solid 8 ft to 10 ft groundswell from the SSE, with a very long 16-second period. The combined wave energy is off the charts at 3286 to 4425 (strong to very strong). This is big, powerful, and long-period swell. At a beach break like Onjuku, it might be a bit too straight and fat, but if you’ve got a step-up and a bit of nerve, the sets will be worth the wait. Just be wary of the onshore wind.

The end of August and into early September is a mixed bag of big, messy swell and tricky winds, with a lot of days marked as marginal. The standout, and the real peak of the whole window, is Thursday the 3rd of September afternoon. The swell drops to a more manageable 4 ft from the S, with a 13-second period. The wind goes offshore from the North at 12 mph, creating clean, groomed lines. The combined energy is still a solid 1061 (moderate), and the forecast is calling it excellent for experienced surfers. That’s your session. The rest of the time it’s big, windy, and bumpy.

So, the takeaway? The first week is a write-off. The middle of the second week has some big, powerful, but wind-affected swell. The absolute best bet is to wait for Thursday the 3rd of September afternoon. That’s the one to circle on the calendar.

Rusty.

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