Onjuku Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s break down what’s in store for Onjuku over the next couple weeks. Gotta warn ya, it’s a tough start, but there’s a few windows worth paddling for.

The first few days are a total washout. Monday and Tuesday are getting hammered by a stormy S swell, peaking at 12ft. The wind is howling onshore, strong breeze all day, so the ocean is just a blown-out, lumpy mess. The water is a touch warmer than usual for this time of year, hitting 28°, but you won’t be in it. This stormy slop carries through Wednesday, with chest-high, short-period junk and those nasty cross-onshore winds. Don’t even bother.

The turnaround comes on Thursday, September 10th. The wind finally clocks around to a light offshore from the North, cleaning up the swell which has dropped to about 4ft. The combined energy is moderate (395). Thursday morning and afternoon are both looking clean and rideable. This is your first real window.

After that, we slide into a lull. Friday and Saturday are tiny, with waves only 2ft to 2ft, but it’s clean. That long period (14 seconds) on Friday carries some energy, but there’s just not enough push. If you’ve got a longboard, you might get a few, but it’s not the main event. Sunday the 13th is similar: small and clean in the morning, but the afternoon gets a little cross-onshore texture.

The next notable window is Monday the 14th through Tuesday the 15th. The swell bumps up to about 4ft from the SE, and the wind is cross-off, keeping it clean. The combined energy is moderate (306 to 371). It’s a marginal call—not perfect, but it’s surfable. A good option for intermediate surfers.

Then we get a real standout. Wednesday morning, September 16th. The wind is glassy—absolutely flat calm—and the swell is 3ft from the ESE. It’s clean, it’s glassy, and the combined energy is moderate (270). This is the best conditions on offer. The water is still warm, and the break is exposed to the SSE, which lines up well. Just be aware that Onjuku can be inconsistent, and it does get crowded sometimes, so expect company.

The rest of the run is a mixed bag. Thursday the 17th is small and poor. Friday the 18th through Saturday the 19th has a bit more size, pushing 5ft to 7ft from the ENE, but the period is short (7 to 9 seconds), so it’s gonna be lumpy and weak. The wind stays cross-off, keeping it clean, but it’s only marginal.

Sunday the 20th sees another storm system move in, with a big 8ft ENE swell and strong onshore winds. The energy jumps to very strong (1717), but the wind is a fresh cross-onshore, making it a total mess. That’s a kite-surfing day, not a paddle day.

Finally, Monday the 22nd of September has a promising morning. A 7ft ENE swell, moderate energy (1300), and clean cross-off wind. It’s a long way out, so take it as a promising but less certain option. The surf is there, but the quality is marginal.

To sum it up: The best bet is Wednesday morning, September 16th. The glassy wind and 3ft clean swell will be a treat. For a solid, reliable session, aim for Thursday the 10th with the offshore breeze. The rest of the time, you’re either dodging storms or scraping for tiny waves.

Rusty.

Read more