Onjuku Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here, let's talk about what's on the menu for Onjuku over the next couple of weeks.

It’s a bit of a slow start, I’m not gonna lie. We’ve got a few days of small, messy, onshore slop to get through first. The water temp is sitting pretty at 80°, which is bang on average for this time of year, so at least it’ll be a warm wait.

Friday the 21st and Saturday the 22nd are write-offs. Tiny little 1ft to 3ft SSE and E swells, but with a stiff cross-onshore wind, it’s just choppy and ugly. Not worth paddling out for.

Sunday the 23rd cleans up a bit with a cross-offshore breeze, but it’s still only 2ft to 3ft of short-period E swell. The morning is a no-go, and the afternoon is only getting a 1 out of 10, so it’s a pass for me.

The real story starts to unfold on Monday the 24th. That’s where we get our first true standout. Early morning, the wind goes glassy, dead calm. The swell jumps to 7ft from the SSE, with a super long 18-second period. That’s serious groundswell energy, and the combined energy is a massive 2516. This is fantastic for experienced surfers – it’s too big for beginners, but for those with the skills, it’s going to be excellent. The glassy conditions will make it absolutely perfect. Be aware that a long-period swell like this (18 seconds) can make the waves break a bit too straight at a beach break, but for a point or reef, it’s magic. The afternoon sees the wind swing onshore and the quality drops, so get it while you can.

Tuesday the 25th still has a solid 8ft swell from the SSE, but the wind is cross-onshore, making it choppy and less appealing. The energy is still high (2285), but the wind is the enemy here.

We get a bit of a lull on Wednesday and Thursday with dropping swell and persistent onshore winds, so nothing to get excited about.

Friday the 28th is a mess with strong 31 mph winds and lumpy, cross-onshore junk. Not a paddle session.

The next real window of opportunity appears on Sunday the 30th. The wind goes clean and cross-offshore, with a 4ft to 4ft SSE swell. The combined energy is a moderate 525, and the conditions are labeled as “very good.” This is a solid, fun-sized day for a wider range of surfers, with clean conditions. This is your second standout for the period.

Monday the 31st and Tuesday the 1st of September stay similar, with clean conditions and 4ft to 4ft swell, but the quality drops a notch. Still worth a look if you’re itching.

Then we get a massive warning. On Thursday the 3rd of September, the swell forecast goes nuclear. We’re looking at a 33ft swell from the ESE with a combined energy of 98121. The wind is offshore and clean, but the swell is absolutely colossal. This is not for anyone. This is a “stay on the beach and watch” kind of day. The same goes for the 4th of September with an 18ft swell. It’s just too big for Onjuku.

The run-up to the 5th of September shows the swell dropping back down to a more manageable 5ft to 7ft, but the wind is strong and cross-shore, so it’s still a messy prospect.

So, to wrap it up: the two clear standouts are the glassy, powerful groundswell on Monday morning the 24th, and the clean, fun-sized swell on Sunday the 30th. Everything else is either flat, windy, or dangerously oversized.

Signing off, Rusty.

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