Onjuku Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here, checkin' in with the local skinny. We're lookin' at a pretty quiet run for Onjuku for the next week or so, but the charts are hinting at something big and a little wild further out. Let's get into it.

The water temp is sittin' right on 80°, which is dead average for this time of year. No surprises there.

So, the first two weeks are a bit of a write-off for proper waves. The combined swell energy is low, mostly in the 150 to 650 range, but it does pop up to a moderate 632 on Sunday morning the 16th. Still, the wind is a constant cross-shore, making things messy and choppy. The swell is mostly from the E/ESE with short periods around 8-10 seconds, so it's weak, short-period windswell. It's not gonna be any good. We've got a few days where the wind eases to a light breeze and it cleans up, like Tuesday morning, the 18th, but the swell drops to 3 ft with a period of only 8 seconds. You might get a few knee-high peelers, but it's a struggle. Honestly, we're looking at a solid 10-day gap of poor to marginal surf.

Now, hold onto your board. The real story starts around Monday, the 24th of August. We see a massive jump in the numbers. The combined swell energy hits a whopping 4540 on Monday morning, with swell from the SE, 8 ft and a period of 17 seconds. That's very long-period groundswell, and it's packing serious power. The wind is a clean cross-offshore from the NE. This is the standout of the whole forecast. The water will be a mess, but the lines will be clean. It's a big swell, though, over 8 ft, so this is strictly for experienced surfers only. The long period is great for wrapping around points, but at a beach break like Onjuku, it might break a bit too straight in sections.

The standouts keep coming, but they get too big. Tuesday morning the 25th has 12 ft SSE swell with 15-second periods, and 5145 energy. The wind is still clean cross-off. Wednesday the 26th is even bigger, with 13 ft SSE swell. The combined energy hits 6071. By Thursday the 27th, it's a monster 15 ft SSE swell, with a staggering 10173 combined energy. The wind that morning is a cross-off, but it looks like the swell is predicted to be too big for this break. It's gonna be a washing machine. Thursday afternoon the wind swings to a strong onshore, and the whole thing just gets blown out.

So, the call is simple. Don't bother for the first week and a half. The standout is Monday, the 24th of August, with that 8 ft SE groundswell and clean, cross-off wind. It's big, it's powerful, and it's for the crew who know what they're doing. After that, it's either too big for Onjuku or blown out. The forecast is reliable for the near term, but that long-range call for the 24th is a solid bet.

Rusty, signing off.

Read more