Onjuku Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, grab your board and let’s look at what the ocean’s got cookin’ for the next couple of weeks.

The next week is going to be a bit of a grind. We've got a quiet, messy stretch ahead with not much to get excited about. We're looking at a real dry spell from now until about the middle of next week, where there's just nothing worth paddling out for. The wind's mostly onshore or cross, and the swell is small and junky. If you're jonesing, maybe just wait it out on the beach with a cold one.

Things start to perk up a bit around the 10th. Thursday morning (the 10th) shows a bit of life with a NE wind creating some clean, offshore conditions at Onjuku. The swell jumps to 5ft from the NE, but it's only a 7-second period, so it'll be a bit soft and crumbly. It's not epic, but it's a start. The energy reading is moderate at 525, which is better than the weak stuff we'll have seen. The water is a touch warmer than normal at 82°F, which is noticeable for this time of year.

The following morning, Friday the 11th, looks a little cleaner with lighter NE winds. Swell drops to 3ft from the ENE, and while the energy is weaker (337), it's rideable. There's a longer-period pulse of 14 seconds on Friday afternoon, but the swell is tiny at 2ft, so it's more of a promise than a reality.

Saturday and Sunday (the 12th and 13th) are similar. Small, clean-ish waves in the 2ft range from the east, with light winds. It's the kind of surf that's fun if you're a log-head or just want to get wet, but there's no push to it. The energy is hanging around the 200s, so it's pretty weak.

Now, Monday the 14th is where I start to raise an eyebrow. We've got a glassy morning with a bit more size, 4ft from the SE. The wind is almost nothing, just a slight air, and the period is a more workable 9 seconds. The energy is moderate at 344. It’ll be clean and might offer a fun wave or two.

Then we hit another lull in the middle of the week. The 15th, 16th, and 17th look pretty ordinary. The swell is small, and the wind gets fresh and blustery from the SW and NE. It's all poor conditions. The 18th gets stronger wind, and the 19th is just tiny leftovers.

But hold on to your hats, because that's when the ocean wakes up. It's a long way out, but the forecast for September 20th is looking like the standout of the entire period. This is the one to circle on your calendar. The swell is from the SE and building. The combined energy jumps to a strong 3260, and the swell height is 7ft with a very long 18-second period. That's a serious groundswell, and it's going to have some real push behind it. The wind is light and offshore from the NE, which will keep it clean. This is a call for experienced surfers though, as the power is on. This big, long-period swell can turn a beach break like Onjuku into a bit of a closeout machine, so I'd be looking for a reef or a point if you know the area.

The 20th is just the beginning. The 21st is looking, well, huge. We're talking 13ft from the SSE with a very long 18-second period. The energy readings are off the charts at 9530, but even that is understating it. The problem is, the wind is howling offshore at 28 mph, which will make it a battle just to get out. The forecast says it's predicted to be too big for this break, and I'd have to agree. It’s going to be a washing machine out there. This is only for the most fearless, experienced chargers, and even then, take a deep breath.

After that, it into Monday the 22nd still has big swell—12ft from the SE—and the energy is still massive at 9298. The wind looks a little better, but it's still too big and messy for Onjuku. Tuesday the 23rd is still oversized and the wind is back onshore. The size is still there but the quality is gone.

So there you have it. A quiet week, a rippable morning or two, and then one hell of a big swell event right at the end. The standout is the morning of Sunday, September 20th. It's far out, so treat it as promising but not set in stone. Forecasts can change, but that’s the one I’d have my eye on. Other than that, be patient.

Later,

Rusty

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