Onjuku Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s on the menu for Onjuku.

First off, water temps are sitting at 82°, which is a touch warmer than normal for this time of year – nothing crazy, just a nice little bonus for your session.

Right now, we’re in a bit of a flat spell to start. The first real action worth paddling out for isn’t until Tuesday morning, the 1st of September. That’s when we get a little bump of 3 ft from the ESE with a period of 12 seconds, combined energy sitting at 315 (moderate), and a light offshore breeze from the NNE. That’s clean, lined-up, and the sort of morning where you can get a few fun ones without too much fuss. Crowds are sometimes an issue here, so early is your friend.

Wednesday morning the 2nd keeps things rolling with 3 ft from the ESE, 10-second period, combined energy at 207 (moderate), and a light cross-offshore breeze from the NE. Still clean, still surfable, but nothing that’ll blow your mind.

After that, things get a bit messy. Thursday and Friday bring onshore winds, short period junk, and generally poor conditions. We’ve got a few days of pretty ordinary surf from the 3rd through the 5th, with small swell and wind that’s not doing us any favours.

Now, the standout window is from the 6th of September into the following week, but there’s a catch. On Sunday the 6th, we see 7 ft from the E at 8 seconds, combined energy hitting 966 (strong). That’s actually a decent size, but the short period means it’s going to be a bit lumpy and less organised. By Monday the 7th, we’re up to 8 ft from the ESE, but the wind is cross-onshore, so expect chop.

The real big stuff kicks in from the 8th of September. Swell builds to 10 ft from the ESE, period 12 seconds, combined energy shooting up to 3173 (very strong). That’s a serious groundswell. But here’s the thing – at 10 ft, this is expert-only territory. On Wednesday the 9th, we’ve got 12 ft from the ESE, period 12 seconds, combined energy 3225, and the wind is a clean cross-offshore from the E. That’s a beautiful combination if you’ve got the skill. But honestly, for most of us, it’s going to be too big and too powerful.

The week of the 10th to the 13th is dominated by huge swell (15 ft on the 10th, 12 ft on the 10th afternoon) and gale-force winds. That’s not a surf forecast – that’s a weather warning. Only the most experienced chargers should even be looking at the water then.

So, to wrap it up: the best bet for the average surfer is Tuesday morning the 1st of September. Clean, light offshore, moderate energy, and chest-high waves. If you’re an expert and you want a challenge, the 9th of September offers a clean, powerful, very big groundswell, but it’s not for the faint-hearted.

Rusty.

Read more