Onjuku Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let’s break it down. Onjuku’s been a bit of a mixed bag to start, but the waiting is gonna be worth it if you’ve got the patience of a saint.

The next few days look pretty ordinary. Thursday morning through to the end of the first week is mostly poor surf conditions with a few glimpses of surfable but very ordinary conditions. The light rain and cross-off wind on Thursday morning are not helping, and the swell is scrappy and short-period. The combined energy is weak to moderate (453) at best, but it’s just not coming together. Friday morning shows a little 2ft swell with a long 14s period, but it’s small and the cross-off breeze keeps it messy. The weekend continues with tiny waves—2ft to 3ft—and mostly cross-off winds, so don’t get your hopes up. The combined energy is moderate (228 to 294) but the wave quality is lacking.

Then the wait. There’s a proper gap of a few days with no real standouts until the middle of the second week. Around Sunday the 13th, we get a little 2ft ESE swell with a 13s period and light cross-off wind, and the combined energy is moderate (227). The break is inconsistent, so you’ll be sitting and waiting for sets, but the water is a touch warmer than normal for this time of year at 82°F—that’s a nice bonus.

But the real standout—the one you’ve been waiting for—is Friday the 18th of September. Onjuku is set to fire with a 4ft SSE groundswell, a very long 17-second period, and glassy conditions in the morning. The combined energy jumps to a strong 1653, and the water temperature is still warm. This is the kind of morning where you paddle out and feel the ocean breathing. The swell direction is right on the money for the optimum SSE direction, and with light offshore or glassy conditions, expect clean, long lines. This is for experienced surfers, though—crowds are possible, so get there early.

Saturday the 19th keeps the momentum. The morning is a bit messy with 10ft of SSE swell and a 14s period, but the cross-shore wind is light. The afternoon turns glassy again with 8ft SSE swell, still long 14s period, and the combined energy is huge (3828). Excellent surf conditions for experienced surfers, but the size is getting serious.

Sunday the 20th is another standout. The morning sees 10ft of SSE swell at 15s, with a light cross-off wind and the combined energy roaring at 3544. The afternoon is glassy, same size, same period, and the energy is still massive (3330). This is big, clean, powerful surf—expert territory only. If you’re not comfortable in 10ft waves, stay on the sand.

By Monday the 21st, the swell is still pumping at 10ft with a 16s period, but the wind is cross-shore. The afternoon cleans up with a light cross-off and 8ft of S swell at 15s—still excellent, but the crowd factor is likely.

Then Tuesday the 22nd is where it gets too big for most. 15ft of S swell on the morning, 10s period, and the combined energy is 3357. The afternoon sees 18ft of S swell at 11s, with an insane 6795 combined energy. This is not a paddle day—this is a hold-your-breath and watch the horizon kind of day. The swell is too big for this break, and the onshore wind will make it a washing machine. Save your energy.

After that, the surf drops off fast. Wednesday the 23rd is blown out with strong onshore winds and messy 8ft to 6ft swell. The energy drops to 2495, but the wind is a gale. The rest of the week is small, scrappy, and not worth a trip.

Bottom line: This is a tale of two weeks. The first week is a flat, frustrating wait. The second week—especially Friday the 18th through Monday the 21st—is where the magic happens. The best on offer is Friday the 18th morning with glassy 4ft SSE groundswell at 17 seconds. That’s the one to circle on your calendar. Crowds are possible, so be early. The water is warm, the energy is strong, and the conditions are clean. Don’t sleep on it.

Rusty.

Read more