Onjuku Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, mate, Rusty here. Let’s break it down.

The next few days are pretty flat, but there’s a massive pulse of energy building into the first week of September that could be something special if you’re experienced enough to handle it. The water temp is about average for this time of year, nothing unusual.

The first real surfable window doesn’t show up until Sunday the 23rd of August, and even then it’s only small and clean. Onjuku picks up a little 3ft swell from the east with a 10-second period on Sunday morning, winds are light and cross-off, so it’s tidy. The afternoon drops to 2ft from the SSE with a 12-second period, still clean. But honestly, it’s not much to get excited about – just a knees-and-ankles day.

Then Monday the 24th through to Wednesday the 26th of August, the swell starts to build but the wind is onshore, blowing onshore from the south or SSE, and the surf quality is poor. On Monday morning, there’s a 7ft swell from the SSE with a very long 17-second period – that’s real groundswell energy – and combined energy hits 2680, which is strong. But the onshore wind and the long period makes it tricky for a beach break like Onjuku. Tuesday morning sees 8ft from the SSE with a 16-second period, energy up to 3450, but still onshore wind. The conditions are marginal, and the size is getting into expert-only territory.

From Thursday the 27th of August all the way through to Saturday the 30th of August, it’s a mixed bag of rain, storms, and strong winds. The surf is poor, the swell drops off, and the winds are fresh and strong, mostly onshore or cross-onshore. Not worth paddling out for.

Sunday the 30th of August afternoon shows some promise – a 5ft swell from the SSE with a 16-second period, clean cross-off winds from the NE, and energy at 1472. Still moderate to strong, but clean. Things improve further on Monday the 31st of August and Tuesday the 1st of September, with 7ft to 8ft SSE and SE swells, long periods of 14 to 15 seconds, and clean cross-off winds. The morning of the 1st of September sees 8ft from the SE at 15 seconds, energy 2583. This is the best stretch of the early window – still big, but the wind is clean. It’s only for intermediate to expert surfers though.

Now, the real standout is the 2nd of September through to the 4th of September. This is a major, major swell event. On Wednesday the 2nd of September morning, Onjuku gets 10ft from the SE with a 16-second period, fresh offshore winds from the NNE, and combined energy of 5343 – that’s very strong. The afternoon jumps to 12ft from the SE, energy 7362, but the guidance says it’s too big for this break. By Thursday the 3rd, we’re talking 18ft to 21ft from the SSE with 17-second periods and energy readings of 17809 to 23121 – that’s enormous. The wind is strong offshore, so it’s clean, but only for absolute experts. Friday the 4th of September is the peak: 41ft from the SSE with an 18-second period, energy 93593, and strong offshore winds. It’s clean but ridiculously big – only for the brave and the very skilled. The afternoon drops to 28ft from the south, still huge.

If you’re a beginner, steer clear of the whole second week – it’s too big and too dangerous. For the experienced crew, the 2nd to the 4th of September is the big one, but remember, long-period swells like this can make beach breaks close out, so Onjuku might not be your best bet if that happens. It could be more interesting for the windsurf or kite crew when it’s that big.

The last day in the forecast, Saturday the 5th of September, drops back to 8ft from the SSE with a 10-second period, but the winds are still strong offshore, so it’s clean but short period.

Stay safe out there.

Rusty.

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