Omaezaki Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let's get into it. It's a bit of a strange spell for the next couple of weeks, so here's the lowdown.

The next few days here at Omaezaki are gonna be real quiet, and frankly, not worth paddling out for. We're looking at a few days of small, weak surf with clean but gutless conditions. The energy is just not there – you're looking at combined energy readings in the low 100s and even below, which is barely a ripple. The swell direction is all over the place, but it's just not doing anything for us. You might see the odd wave pop, but it's gonna be a frustrating session if you're looking for a real ride. This run of nothing much lasts from now through about the 20th. Hang loose.

Then, things start to shift late on Friday the 21st. We get a pulse of south-southwest swell that kicks the energy up. The combined energy jumps to 362 and then 518 that afternoon. The morning is looking cleaner with the light offshore east-northeast wind, but the swell is still a bit shy – just under 3ft. It's not a wave you'll be telling your pals about, but it's a sign of things to come. The weekend pretty much follows that pattern: some south-southwest swell and light winds, but the swell direction isn't ideal and the conditions are a bit messy. It's more of a "check it" time than a "go time" time.

Now, here's the part you've been waiting for. That’s when it gets properly interesting. Mark your calendar for Monday the 24th of August. That east-southeast groundswell rolls in with some serious weight. We're looking at wave heights pushing 5ft in the morning and the energy readings absolutely jump to 1571 by the morning and almost 2000 by the afternoon. This is the real deal. The period is a long 16 seconds, which brings that classic groundswell push. Because this is a beach and reef setup, that long period can make it a bit closey-outy at times, but the power is undeniable.

This is where the standout conditions are. The morning of Monday the 24th is clean with a light cross-offshore east-southeast breeze. It's solid and it's got that push. That's your first big swell. The size will be a bit much for the beginners – anything over 5ft is pushing it – but for the crew who know their way around, this is gonna be an amazing session.

The following days, Tuesday and Wednesday, bring even more size. We're talking 7ft and 8ft, so this is getting well into the "experienced only" territory. That's a big step up in power and the crowd at the break could be a factor, so be aware of that. The winds are good in the mornings – light offshore – but this is getting big. It's not a day for the faint of heart. The energy readings are huge, running into the 2000s, which tells you just how much water is moving.

But then the ocean gets angry. The end of the week, from the 27th through the 30th, it just goes off. We're looking at wave heights of 11ft to 15ft, with energy readings in the 5000s and even pushing 9000. That's a serious, serious amount of energy – and honestly, it's way too big for this spot. The forecast notes say it's too big for the break, and they're right. It doesn't matter how good the wind is, this is just a washing machine at Omaezaki. Unless you're a big-wave charlie with a crew and a jet ski, you are not surfing this. It could be more interesting for the kite surfers, but for a paddle surfer, it's a no-go zone.

After that fury, it starts to ease off as we move into Sunday the 30th and Monday the 31st. We're back down to a more manageable 6ft on the 31st, with a shorter period, which means the power is a bit more user-friendly. That Monday morning, the 31st, with a light offshore east-northeast wind and clean conditions, could be a good final score, especially after the chaos of the week before.

So, the one to really circle on the calendar is the Monday morning the 24th. That's the sweet spot where size and conditions meet for the best session of the window. It's big but manageable, and clean. The rest is either too small or too big for most people. See you out there.

Rusty

Read more