Omaezaki Surf Forecast and Surf Report

G’day, Rusty here.

Alright, let’s be straight with you. The next couple of weeks are a classic Omaezaki story – a whole lot of swell, but you gotta pick your windows and know your limits. First things first, that water temp is sitting at 82° Fahrenheit which is pretty spot on for this time of year, so boardies and a rashie are all you need.

The opening days are pretty grim for a paddle. We’ve got a small bump on Saturday the 29th of August, barely 2ft of SW swell, but it’s glassy in the morning. It’s surfable, but it’s ordinary, the kind of session you take just to get wet. Then it drops right off for a few days. Sunday and Monday are flat and wind-affected, so don’t even bother. There’s a gap there where you’re just watching the forecast.

Things start to shape up as we roll into September. The morning of Tuesday the 1st is the first real glimmer. The wind swings to a light cross-offshore breeze and we get 4ft of S swell. It’s clean, and the energy is building – hitting a moderate 378. It’s the start of something.

Now, here’s where it gets interesting. That S swell really starts to fill in by the end of the week, but the wind turns onshore and it gets messy and big. You’re looking at 7ft to 8ft of S groundswell on Thursday the 3rd, but it’s onshore and choppy. Not your day unless you’re a glutton for punishment. Friday the 4th gets proper big, pushing 12ft, but with a strong onshore wind, it’s a washing machine. This is all leaning more toward a kiteboarding session than a surf. Even when the morning of Saturday the 5th cleans up with a cross-off breeze, the swell has dropped back to 7ft and it’s still pretty chunky and raw.

But man, the real standout is waiting for you. That Sunday morning, the 6th of September. The wind goes light offshore, the sky is clear, and the ocean is just pulsing. We’re looking at a solid 7ft of S swell with a 12-second period, and the energy is cranking at 1378. The comment says it all – “excellent surf conditions for experienced surfers.” This is the one to circle on the calendar, the first real gem. Omaezaki (Shizuoka) is a beach and reef set-up, and with that long-period groundswell, it should be lining up nicely. It’s going to be a proper session. The afternoon gets even better, with the swell pushing 8ft and a 13-second period. Still clean, still light wind. This is your window.

Monday the 7th is a giant event. The swell is predicted to be 13ft to 15ft with a massive 10189 combined energy. It’s way, way over everyone’s head. Even though the wind is favorable, this is expert-only territory, and honestly, it’s likely just too big and dangerous for this break. You’d be mad to paddle out.

Then it all gets blown out again. Tuesday the 8th through Wednesday the 9th has fresh to near-gale onshore winds and heavy, messy surf. You don't want anything to do with it. The surf still has some size, but the quality is shot.

The run-out is a bit more promising but tamer. By Thursday the 10th of September, it’s settled down on the way down, with a clean 5ft of S swell and glassy conditions in the morning. It’s a decent, fun wave but a huge step down from the weekend’s action. Friday the 11th finishes the run with a clean, small 4ft SSW swell, but the energy is fading and the window is short.

So, to wrap it up: The first week is a write-off. The standout is undeniably the 6th of September – that’s the day you want. The swell is significant, the wind is perfect, and it’s going to be good. The following Monday is just too big for its own good. After that, things get messy before settling into smaller, cleaner waves towards the end. Keep your eyes on that Sunday.

Stay stoked,
Rusty

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