Akabane Long Beach Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Hey, Rusty here. Let’s break down what’s happening at Akabane Long Beach. The first stretch is a bit of a bust, so don’t rush to wax up. There’s a big pulse of swell coming late in the outlook, though, that’s worth knowing about.

Starting Tuesday the 18th, it’s tiny – just 2ft of swell from the ESE with a short period of 8 seconds, and the wind is blowing straight onshore. The wave energy is weak (120). Not worth getting wet. Wednesday and Thursday the 19th and 20th are more of the same: small, messy, onshore wind. Water temp is 81°, which is about average for this time of year.

Friday the 21st morning gives us a little hope. Swell bumps to 3ft from the south, period 9 seconds, and it’s glassy – no wind. The combined energy hits 147 (moderate-low), so it’s surfable but still pretty ordinary. Saturday the 22nd morning is the best of the first week: 3ft of swell from the SSW, period still 9 seconds, and glassy conditions. Combined energy is 207 (moderate), and the forecast says “expect good surf conditions.” This is your best chance for a clean but small session early on.

Sunday the 23rd and Monday the 24th see the swell holding around 2ft to 3ft, but the wind swings onshore and spoils it.

Now for the good stuff. Tuesday the 25th morning, we get a new 3ft swell from the SSE, but the period jumps to 15 seconds – proper groundswell. The wind is light and cross-offshore from the NNE, keeping it clean. Combined energy jumps to 524 (moderate-strong). For a beach break like this, that long period can make the waves a bit straight, but it’ll be clean and fun for intermediates.

Wednesday the 26th morning is for the experienced crew. Swell hits 7ft from the SSE, period 14 seconds, combined energy a strong 2010. The wind is light and cross-offshore from the NNE. This is powerful, clean, and not for beginners – you need to know what you’re doing.

Thursday the 27th morning goes even bigger: 8ft swell from the south, 14-second period, and offshore wind from the NNW at 9 mph. The combined energy is a cranked-up 2611 (very strong). This is a charging day for experts.

Friday the 28th, the swell peaks at 10ft from the south, period 15 seconds, with combined energy up to 3930–4383 (very strong). The wind is cross-offshore, but the reports say it’s too big for this break. Unless you’re on a big-wave rig, give it a wide berth. Saturday the 29th drops back to 8ft, but the wind turns onshore in the afternoon.

From Sunday the 30th onward, the swell stays big (6ft to 10ft) but the wind gets messy, cross-onshore, and even brings some thunderstorms. Not worth it for the average surfer. The real standout days are Wednesday the 26th and Thursday the 27th – clean, solid, and for the brave.

Rusty.

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