Akabane Long Beach Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s cookin’. We’re talkin’ about Akabane Long Beach, and I gotta be straight with you – this forecast is a real mixed bag. We’ve got plenty of swell on the cards over the next couple weeks, but the wind is gonna be a struggle. The good news is there’s a couple of windows where it all comes together, and one that’s a real standout if you’ve got the skills.

Right now, and for the first week, it’s pretty grim. We’re dealing with an exposed beach break, and the wind is mostly cross or cross-onshore, which is just chopping everything up. The energy is pretty weak at first, reading about 107 in the combined swell energy. The wave heights are tiny, around 2 ft to 3 ft, with a short, weak period, so you’re not missing a thing.

Things start to look a little more promising around the 4th of September. We get a brief moment on Friday afternoon with glassy conditions – that’s a huge positive. The swell picks up to 5 ft from the ESE, but the period is a short 6 seconds, so it’s a bit weak and fat. The combined energy is 294, which is moderate. It’s a glimmer but not the main event.

The next day, the 5th, the swell jumps up to 7 ft, but it’s back to choppy cross-onshore winds. That’s a big no from me. This pattern of big, messy swell continues right through the 7th of September, with waves hitting 10 ft and combined energy cranking up to over 1184 – that’s strong energy – but it’s all blown out. The surf quality is poor. For a beach break, this setup is looking more interesting for kite surfing than paddle surfing, honestly.

Now, we hit a bit of a lull in the quality, but the numbers are still there. The 8th and 9th of September offer some marginal conditions with 7 ft to 6 ft swell and light cross-shore winds. The combined energy is sitting around 900 to 1026, which is moderate to strong, but the tides and light onshore breeze keep it from being a sure thing.

Then we get to the 10th of September – Thursday morning. This is your best bet. The wind swings around to offshore from the NNW at 12 mph. That’s clean. The swell is a solid 6 ft from the ESE with a period of 10 seconds – a nice, long groundswell. The combined energy is a strong 951. The wind and tide are saying “yes,” and the forecast gives it the highest marks of the whole run. It’s not too big for intermediates, but the long period at a beach break like this might make it a bit walled and straight. Still, with offshore winds, it’s the cleanest window we’ve got. Be warned, this spot can get crowded, so get in early.

After that, it gets wild. The 11th of September brings a massive 6 ft swell from the south with a very long period of 14 seconds and huge energy of 1512, but the wind is a strong cross-offshore that’s just too much. Then the 12th is a write-off with a severe gale. Absolute chaos.

And finally, on the 13th of September, we get a real monster. The combined energy is a staggering 4397, and the swell is 10 ft from the SSW with an incredible 15-second period. The wind is offshore and glassy – perfect conditions. The problem? The forecast explicitly says this swell is too big for this break. This is for experts only, and even then, it’s a gamble. It’ll be a heavy, powerful beast, best left to those with big-wave experience and a death wish. That Sunday morning is the standout for the big-wave chargers, but it’s a serious undertaking.

So, in a nutshell: the first week is a total dud gas, then the 4th gives a tiny, glassy tease, and then the real window is Thursday the 10th for a clean, solid session. If you’re a pro, the 13th is on the menu, but be careful. For the rest of the run, it’s mostly blown out or messy. Hang in there, but don't expect much until that Thursday morning.

- Rusty

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