Akabane Long Beach Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s coming our way at Akabane Long Beach. It’s a bit of a slow start, but there’s a beast of a swell building for the brave, so hang tight.

The first few days are a total write-off, I’m sorry to say. From Monday the 27th of July right through to Friday the 31st, we’ve got a mess of cross-onshore winds and tiny, weak swell. The wave energy is barely scraping into triple digits, if that, sitting around 137 (moderate energy) at best on Monday, then dropping off to nothing. The water temp is a balmy 82°, which is about average for this time of year, but you won’t be feeling it ’cause you’ll be sitting on the beach. Saturday the 1st of August is more of the same—tiny, weak, and onshore. Don’t bother.

Now, Sunday the 2nd of August, we finally see a glimmer. The morning goes glassy with a light southerly breeze, and a 2 ft swell from the SE with a long 16-second period pushes through. The combined energy jumps to 177 (moderate energy). It’s surfable, but it’s very ordinary. Not a standout, but it’s a start.

Here’s where it gets interesting. Monday the 3rd of August morning is a real treat. The wind goes glassy, and we get a clean 5 ft swell from the SE pushing 15-second periods. The wave energy hits 917 (strong), and the conditions are set to be very good. This is your first real window for a decent paddle. The swell is still manageable for intermediates, and the glassy conditions are a major plus. It’s a quiet session before the madness begins.

But the real story is the big, raw power coming in mid-week. Tuesday the 4th of August morning is a standout for the experienced crew. Glassy conditions with a 8 ft SE groundswell, pumping with a 17-second period, and the energy is a massive 2962 (very strong). This is proper, heavy, long-period groundswell. At a beach break, this much period can make it a bit straight and shifty, so it’s one for the experts who know the lineup. The afternoon gets a bit questionable with onshore winds, so hit it early.

Wednesday the 5th and Thursday the 6th of August are not for the faint of heart. The swell is honest-to-god huge, pushing 10 ft to 15 ft from the SE, with periods of 17 to 18 seconds. The energy readings are astronomical—5758 and 11175 (very strong to extreme). The wind is favorable, but the forecast flat-out says this is too big for this break. If you’re a seasoned charger, you might find a bomb set, but this is strictly for experts only. The same goes for Friday the 7th and Saturday the 8th, where the swell peaks at a staggering 25 ft with 31 mph to 47 mph winds. That’s less a surf session and more a survival situation. Honestly, that setup looks more interesting for kite surfing than paddle surfing.

After the big blow, things settle down. Sunday the 9th is a mess of heavy rain and gale-force winds—stay home. But Monday the 10th of August morning brings a reprieve. Clean, cross-off winds with an 8 ft S swell, 12-second period, and energy of 4219 (very strong). It’s still big, but the wind is clean, making it a much better prospect for experienced surfers.

Finally, Tuesday the 11th of August morning is a solid finisher. A light offshore breeze, 5 ft swell from the ESE with a 13-second period, and energy of 1672 (strong). The conditions are clean and excellent for experienced surfers. It’s a good way to wrap up the run.

The best on offer? Get on it Monday the 3rd of August morning for the glassy, clean, and solid 5 ft swell. For the big-wave hunters, Tuesday the 4th of August morning is your window before it gets too wild. The long-range stuff from the 5th to the 8th is promising but less certain for actually surfing—it’s just too much water moving.

Rusty.

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