Middleton Beach Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, this is Rusty checkin’ in from Middleton Beach.

So, Middleton Beach is the only game in town. It’s a really sheltered beginner spot that needs the swell to come from a very specific direction—SSE—to work its magic. We’ve got plenty of swell coming from the SSW and SW, so while there’s a lot of water moving, the angle is off. That means we’ll be fighting to find a clean wave for the first week and a half. There’s a big gap of poor conditions before we get to the good stuff.

We start on Wednesday, September 2nd, with a solid 10 ft swell from the SSW. It’s clean with a cross-offshore breeze, and the water is a touch warmer than usual at 64°F. The energy is strong (3368), but the direction is all wrong for this spot.

Thursday the 3rd brings a bigger 13 ft swell in the morning, and then Thursday afternoon we get a proper offshore wind from the NW at 18 mph. The swell drops a little to 12 ft, but it’s got a long 15-second period. It’s more interesting, but still not the standout.

From Friday the 4th through Monday the 7th, it’s a mix of big messy swells, strong winds, and poor ratings. Sunday the 6th is a write-off with a cross-onshore wind and a massive 10586 combined energy on a 10 ft swell. Not worth the paddle.

The real window opens up on Saturday, September 12th. Saturday morning is the pick of the first week. Clean 10 ft swell from the SW with a very light offshore breeze at 6 mph. The energy is strong (4925), and the conditions are "excellent for experienced surfers." This is the one. The swell is over 8 ft, so it’s for the crew who can handle it. The period is a long 16 seconds, giving you long, powerful lines.

After that, there’s another lull. But then it gets massive. Tuesday, September 15th sees a colossal 21 ft swell from the SW. The combined energy is a staggering 16169 to 18431. The winds are cross-off, so while it’s "marginal," it’s a huge example of what the ocean can do. Not for the faint of heart.

The absolute standout of the whole 16 days is Wednesday, September 16th morning. You get a clean 15 ft SW swell, but the killer is a light offshore breeze from the west at 9 mph. The combined energy is a very strong 10812, and the conditions are rated "excellent for experienced surfers." Big, clean, and powerful. The period is 16 seconds, so you’re getting proper groundswell. If you can handle the size, this is your session.

And right at the end, Thursday, September 17th, we have a glassy 12 ft swell from the SW with an 18-second period. The energy is 8286. Glassy and that kind of period on a bigger day is a rare treat, but the wind switches onshore in the afternoon. Dawn patrol mission.

Bottom line: Middleton is a waiting game. The first 11 days are mostly big and messy. The real, clean, powerful magic shows up on Saturday the 12th, but the undeniable star is Wednesday the 16th and Thursday the 17th of September. Stay patient.

Rusty.

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