Middleton Beach Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let's get into it for Middleton Beach.

We're looking at a classic case of "don't judge a book by its cover" for the next couple of weeks. The opening weekend is a write-off, but we've got a very solid run of clean, punchy groundswell building into next week. The standout window is looking like Wednesday the 3rd and Thursday the 4th of September, where we'll see some serious size and exceptional conditions for the experienced crew. But let's not get ahead of ourselves.

The water temp is sitting at 17.8°, which is a touch warmer than the long-term average for this time of year.

The first few days are ones to sit out. Sunday the 23rd and Monday the 24th have a bit of swell around 7.2ft to 8.2ft, but the early conditions are grim with a messy cross-chop and a moderate cross breeze. By Monday afternoon a light offshore wind from the West kicks in and cleans things up nicely, making for a decent session with clean 8.2ft waves from the SW. Tuesday the 25th is a bit of a letdown. We get a long-period 15-second groundswell pushing 5.9ft in the morning, but a fresh 19 mph offshore from the NW will be howling, making it more of a struggle than a pleasure. The afternoon gets messy as the wind swings cross-off and the swell jumps to a messy 9.8ft. Not our best day.

Wednesday the 26th is where things get interesting, but it's a tricky one. The swell is pumping, hitting 13.1ft in the morning and 14.8ft in the afternoon, all from the SW. The energy in the water is huge (12227 in the morning, 11329 in the afternoon) with a very long period of 19 seconds. That is serious, heavy groundswell. However, the wind is light, so the surface is clean but that much period at a beach break like Middleton can make the waves unload too straight and close out. This is strictly for experts only. The combined wave energy is massive, and it could be a real battle to get out the back.

Thursday the 27th and Friday the 28th we get blown out. A strong cross-onshore wind from the SE and E in the 16-19 mph range chops everything to bits. Swell sticks around but with that onshore wind, it's a mess. A hard pass.

Saturday the 29th is more of the same, with a fresh cross-onshore breeze making the 7.5ft to 8.2ft swell from the SSW look ugly.

Now, we finally get our reward. Sunday the 30th of August is our first true standout. A solid 8.2ft swell from the SSW, but more importantly, a clean, moderate offshore wind from the NW in the morning. The wave energy is pumping (3899), and the surface will be glassy. This is a very good, clean session on offer for those who waited.

Monday the 31st and Tuesday the 1st of September hold clean, moderate swell in the 5.9ft to 7.5ft range with favorable offshore winds, perfect for a wide range of abilities.

Now, Wednesday the 3rd of September is the heavyweight champion of this forecast. The morning sees a massive 13.1ft groundswell from the SSW with a period of 16 seconds, and the wind is a beautiful moderate offshore from the NW. The energy in the water is enormous (7615). This is excellent surf for experienced surfers only – heavy, powerful, and clean. The afternoon keeps that quality with 11.5ft from the same direction and a moderate offshore. This is the session to circle on your calendar. It's a full week out, so keep an eye on the charts, but the signs are incredibly promising.

Thursday the 4th of September is a bit of a letdown after Wednesday's peak. The morning holds a fresh 22 mph offshore wind from the West with 9.8ft swell, which will be clean but challenging. The afternoon turns ugly with a strong cross-shore wind.

The run continues into the following week. Saturday the 6th of September holds a very clean, gentle offshore wind with a solid 8.2ft SW swell and (3097) energy—another great, clean day for the weekend.

Finally, Monday the 7th of September is the monster. We're looking at an 18.0ft to 21.3ft groundswell from the SW with a 16-second period. The combined wave energy is off the charts at 14134 and then 23855. This is a massive, powerful ocean. The morning has a moderate offshore wind from the WNW, making for incredibly heavy but clean lines. This is an absolute expert-only session, and you'd want to know the bank inside out. It's too big for 99% of surfers, but for the big-wave chargers, this is the real deal, a full fortnight away.

Stay stoked, and don't be afraid to wait for the good ones.

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