Long Reef Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let’s have a look at what we’ve got coming up at Long Reef over the next couple of weeks.

The first few days are a write-off, I’m sorry to say. Tuesday the 15th is flat and messy – not even worth paddling out for. That pattern sticks through the start of Wednesday the 16th, but don’t let the early lull fool you because the second half of the week is where the real action kicks off.

Wednesday morning the 16th sees a big jump in energy. We’re talking a solid 12 ft S swell rolling in with a period of 10 seconds and combined energy ramping up to 2239 (strong). That’s a powerful, long-period groundswell. Wind is a cross-off SSW breeze at 19 mph, so it’ll be clean, but 12 ft is expert territory – this is not a day for learners. The swell direction (S) is a touch off the optimum SE, but it’s still going to pump hard. The crowd factor is “sometimes” so you won’t be alone, but there’s enough wave for everyone if you’ve got the skills.

Thursday morning the 17th is still pumping: 10 ft S swell, period 10 seconds, energy at 2905 (very strong), with a gentler 9 mph SSW cross-off. Still big, still clean, still only for the experienced crew. The water temperature is around average for this time of year, nothing out of the ordinary.

Friday morning the 18th is the standout window for the intermediate surfer. The swell has dropped to a much more manageable 5 ft from the S, period 9 seconds, energy at 485 (moderate). But the wind – oh boy – it goes glassy. A light N breeze at 3 mph and the wave comment says “good surf conditions.” That’s going to be smooth, clean, and fun for the better part of the morning. If you can only surf one session this week, make it Friday early.

Saturday morning the 19th is still clean with a 9 mph WSW offshore, but the swell has dropped right off to 3 ft. It’s rideable but small, and the energy is down to 207 (weak). Worth a paddle if you’re keen on a longboard.

From Sunday the 20th through Monday the 21st, it goes flat and choppy – total doldrums. Tuesday morning the 22nd is the next real highlight. We’ve got 6 ft S swell, period 11 seconds, energy at 1127 (strong), with glassy conditions. The forecast says “excellent surf conditions for experienced surfers.” That’s a solid session for the crew who know the reef. Crowds are “sometimes” so expect some company.

After that, the second week gets messy. From Wednesday the 23rd onward, the wind swings NE and cross-on, and the swell drops into the 2 ft to 6 ft range with short periods (6-7 seconds) and poor conditions. A few morning slots on the 28th and 29th of September have clean cross-off winds but the swell is small and weak (3 ft to 4 ft, energy around 200-300). It’s a longboard or groveler session at best.

So to wrap it up: the best of the best is Friday morning the 18th for the everyday surfer, and Tuesday morning the 22nd for the experienced crew. Everything else is either too big for comfort, too small to care, or blown out.

Stay stoked, and don’t sleep on that Friday glass-off.

- Rusty

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