Hebara Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let's have a proper look at what's ahead for the local scene.

For the foreseeable future, there’s plenty of swell on the cards, but the real challenge is the wind. We've got a long stretch of cross-off and cross-onshore breezes that’ll mess with the quality. A lot of these days are looking marginal, so patience will be a virtue.

The period kicks off on Wednesday, September 16th, but the first few days are a write-off. Wednesday morning and afternoon both have poor to marginal conditions with moderate breezes and light rain. Not worth getting wet for.

Things get a bit more interesting but not much better. Thursday the 17th and Friday the 18th see the swell building. By Friday morning we're looking at 8ft swell from the ENE with a short period of 9 seconds, and the combined energy is ramping up strong (1124). But it’s still a cross-off wind, so it’s not going to be the clean, fun surf we’re after.

The swell continues to climb into the weekend. Saturday the 19th has a solid 10ft from the ESE with a much longer 13-second period (groundswell). That's a lot of energy (3586), but again, a fresh cross-off breeze is the spoiler. Sunday the 20th is similar in size and direction, around 10ft from the SE, but the wind shifts to a light cross-on. Still, the energy is very strong (2329).

Now, the standout for the whole outlook, but it comes with a massive caution. Monday the 21st is a monster day. The swell jumps to 15ft on the Monday morning from the SSE with a super-long 14-second period (7545 energy). By Monday afternoon, it’s a massive 25ft from the SSE with a 15-second period and a staggering 27419 energy. That’s enormous, dangerous swell. The report says it's too big for this break. This is for expert-level surfers only, and even then, it's going to be heavy, messy, and risky with that strong cross-onshore wind.

After that pulse, Tuesday the 22nd drops back to a more manageable 7ft from the S, but it's still a cross-on wind with a moderate breeze.

From Wednesday the 23rd through to Tuesday the 29th, the surf drops off significantly. We see a lot of days with poor conditions, onshore or cross-shore winds, and weak to moderate energy. There’s a brief moment of hope on Friday the 25th with a glassy morning and afternoon, but the swell is tiny at only 2ft. That’s a day for a longboard if you’re desperate for a clean glide.

The outlook finishes on a similar note. September 30th and October 1st are just ordinary with poor conditions.

So, to sum up the best on offer: The only real standout is the massive swell event on Monday the 21st. For the absolute elite, charging a 25ft groundswell might be the call, but it's a serious session with terrible wind. For everyone else, the most promising window for a clean wave might be that glassy but tiny day on Friday the 25th of September, but you'll need a log. Overall, the wind is the enemy here for most of the forecast.

Stay safe out there.

Rusty.

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