Eastern Beach Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here with a look at the surf. Let's be straight, it's a rough ride for quite a while. We've got a long stretch of messy, blown-out conditions and onshores. Nothing rideable for the first week, but there's a chance of a clean up later, and then some serious size that might be too much of a good thing.

First up, Eastern Beach. This sandbar setup is inconsistent, but when it works it likes a swell from the SSE. Water temp is about 66°, which is normal for this time of year.

We're looking at a blank run for days. From Friday the 4th through to Tuesday the 8th, the forecast is a write-off. Onshore winds, big messy swells, and choppy conditions. The combined swell energy on Friday morning is a powerful 3954 (moderate to strong wave energy), but it's coming with a strong cross-onshore wind, making it a complete mess. That first weekend and into the early next week, forget it. The surf quality is poor, with moderate to strong cross-onshore winds and lumpy, choppy seas.

Things start to look a bit better on Thursday the 10th. The wind finally swings SSW, giving us a light cross-offshore breeze. The swell drops to 5 ft from the east, with a moderate period of 10 seconds and clean conditions. Combined energy is 465 (moderate). It’s small, maybe a knee to waist-high wave, but clean. The forecast points to "good surf conditions." Don't get too excited, it's not a standout, but after all that wind, it's a welcome sight. This clean spell lingers into Friday morning the 11th.

We get another gap of poor surf conditions through the weekend and early next week. More onshore winds, rain, and lumpy swell.

Now, here's the real standout, but take it with a pinch of salt because it's a long way off. Tuesday the 15th afternoon, we get a moment of magic. The wind goes completely glassy, calm from the NNW at 3 mph. The swell is a clean 6 ft from the east, with a good 10-second period. The combined swell energy is 942 (moderate). This is the pick of the period. Eastern Beach with glassy conditions and a solid, consistent waist-to-head-high wave is a rare treat.

But hold on. Wednesday the 16th and 19th of September, the swell really fires up. We're talking 12 ft from the SSW and SW. The energy readings are huge—3005, 3604, and 4573 (strong wave energy). The wind is cross-offshore from the southwest, so it would be clean. But here's the thing: at over 8 ft, this is only for experts. The forecast even says the swell is predicted to be too big for this break. For most of us, this is a pass.

So, to sum up: The only real window for a decent, clean surf is the afternoon of Tuesday the 15th. If you've got an expert crew and are ready for a beating, Wednesday the 16th might offer a big, clean wave, but it's serious. For the rest of us, the next week is a waiting game.

Rusty.

Read more