Trespassers Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here, let’s talk about what’s on offer at Trespassers.

First up, the water temp is sitting right on 59°F, which is bang on normal for the time of year, so no surprises there.

The outlook starts off rough. Tuesday the 11th and Wednesday the 12th are a write-off. We’re looking at fresh cross-onshore winds, lumpy, choppy conditions, and the wave comment is calling it poor. The combined energy is moderate on Tuesday (778), but it jumps to very strong on Wednesday morning (4251) – that’s a lot of power, but with the wind state being “fresh cross-onshore and lumpy,” it’s just not rideable. The swell is 8ft from the SW with a 17-second period, which is a long-period groundswell, but it’s being wasted.

Thursday the 13th and Friday the 14th are still marginal. The swell is dropping from 7ft down to 6ft, wind is lighter, but it’s still cross-onshore, keeping things fairly choppy or with wind ripples.

Now, here’s where it gets interesting. Saturday the 15th is the first real standout. The wind swings to a gentle cross-offshore breeze from the ESE, and the wave comment says “expect very good surf conditions.” The swell is 5ft from the SSW with a 16-second period – that’s nice, long-period groundswell. The energy is moderate (1273). This is clean, and Trespassers is a reef break, so that long-period swell will line up nicely. It’s an advanced wave, so not for the groms, but for the experienced crew, this is the session to pencil in. The optimum swell direction is SSW, and that’s exactly what we’ve got.

Sunday the 16th and Monday the 17th look good too. Sunday morning has a light offshore wind from the E, clean conditions, with 4ft SW swell (14-second period). Monday morning is even cleaner with a light E offshore and a 3ft SW swell. The energy is lower (462), but the conditions are clean.

Tuesday the 18th through to the 22nd is a mixed bag. The wind turns more cross-off or cross, but the swell stays small, mostly under 4ft. The wave comments are mostly “marginal” or “poor.” Worth a look if you’re desperate, but nothing special.

The best of the entire forecast, though, is Friday the 21st afternoon. The wind drops to a slight air, almost glassy, with a light cross-offshore from the NNE. The swell is 5ft from the SW, 16-second period, and the wave comment says “expect very good surf conditions.” The energy is moderate (1103). This is about as good as it gets for Trespassers in this window. Clean, long-period groundswell, and the reef will handle it perfectly.

The last few days, from the 22nd to the 26th, drop off again. The wind picks up, the swell gets small or messy, and the wave comments are poor. The 26th morning shows a 7ft SW swell but with a short 10-second period and cross-onshore winds – that’s just a windy, choppy mess.

To sum it up: the first few days are a bust. Then Saturday the 15th and Friday the 21st are your best bets, with Friday the 21st afternoon being the absolute standout. Get on it.

Rusty.

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