Trespassers Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s get into what’s coming down the pipe at Trespassers.

We’re kicking off a slow start. Nothing rideable on the first day or two. The wind is messy and the conditions are junk. Sunday the 13th and Monday the 14th are write-offs. You’re better off waxing your board and waiting.

Tuesday the 15th things start to stir. We’ve got a SSW swell building to 6 ft, with a long 15-second period. That’s proper groundswell energy, but the wind is still cross or side-offshore, keeping things a bit rough in the morning. The afternoon improves, with cleaner lines and moderate energy (1203). Still only marginal, but it’s the first real sign of life.

Wednesday the 16th is where it gets interesting. The swell holds at 6 ft from the SSW, still at 15 seconds, and by the afternoon we get offshore wind from the ESE at 16 mph. The wave energy is pumping (1238), and the conditions are clean. This is the first standout of the period – a solid afternoon session for someone comfortable in head-high-plus waves.

Thursday the 17th is smaller but sweet. The swell drops to 4 ft with a light offshore breeze in the morning, and then by the afternoon it goes glassy – dead calm, no wind. That’s a rare treat. Clean, gentle sets with moderate energy (351). A fantastic window for a longboard or a mid-length.

Now we hit a dry spell. From Friday the 18th through to Sunday the 20th, the wind and swell are all over the place – cross-shores, strong cross-onshore, and messy lumpy conditions. The energy drops right off. You don’t want to be out there. This stretch lasts a few days. Wait it out.

Monday the 21st brings a fresh pulse. The swell bumps up to 5 ft from the SW, 13-second period, with a light offshore from the east in the morning. The wave energy is moderate (834) and the surf is clean. This is a good, solid day with proper shape. The afternoon turns a little cross-shore, but still fun.

Here we go. Tuesday the 22nd and Wednesday the 23rd are the real standouts. Tuesday morning sees 7 ft SSW swell with a 16-second period – that’s serious groundswell energy (2262). Offshore wind from the east at 12 mph keeps it clean. This is excellent, expert-only territory. The afternoon holds at 7 ft with light offshore. Then Wednesday afternoon goes glassy again – dead calm, no wind, and 5 ft SSW swell rolling in with very long period. That’s a classic afternoon session. Best of the whole run right here.

Thursday the 24th is another cracker for the experienced crew. Swell 7 ft from the SSW, 19-second period – that’s a super long groundswell (3195). Clean cross-offshore wind. It’ll be a bit straight at the beach, but at a reef setup like Trespassers, the long period will push in with serious power and shape.

Friday the 25th and Saturday the 26th drop off again. Cross-shores and choppy conditions kill the quality. Not worth suiting up.

Sunday the 27th and Monday the 28th close the window with a solid pulse. The 27th brings 7 ft to 8 ft SSW swell with fresh offshore winds – big, clean, and powerful (3508). Only for the well-experienced. Monday the 28th holds at 7 ft with a clean offshore breeze. A good way to end the run.

Water temp is about average for this time of year – no crazy anomaly to report. Crowds at Trespassers can show up sometimes, so if you’re hitting those standout days, get there early.

Alright, that’s the picture. Stay patient, pick your windows.
Rusty.

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