Trespassers Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let's get into it. We've got a bit of a wait on our hands, so don't go paddling out just yet.

The opening days are a write-off. Sunday the 13th through Monday the 14th are a no-go with poor surf and onshore winds. The real wait stretches from now all the way through the 15th and 16th. We see some size coming in, but the wind and tide are just not playing ball. It's not until Wednesday the 16th afternoon that things start to look interesting.

Now, here’s the standout run. The pick of the whole period is shaping up to be Wednesday, September 16th afternoon over at Trespassers. We've got a clean 6ft swell rolling in from the SSW, and the wind is swinging offshore. That's a game changer. The wave energy is strong (1238), and with that long 15-second period, you're looking at proper groundswell lines. It's a reef break for the advanced crew, so leave the foamies at home. The water temp is sitting at 59°, which is pretty average for this time of year, so a good wetsuit is all you need.

Thursday the 17th keeps the good vibes rolling. The morning sees a lighter cross-off breeze with a 4ft SSW swell, but the real magic is Thursday afternoon. The wind goes glassy – flat calm – with a clean 3ft swell. It'll be smaller, but for a log or a fish, that's going to be silky smooth and a joy. The water temp anomaly is normal, so no surprises there.

Friday the 18th sees the wind pick up and the quality drops. We then go through a pretty bleak stretch from the 19th to the 20th. On the 20th, the swell jumps to 7ft but it's a messy cross-onshore wind, making it a write-off. The 21st and 22nd have some decent size and potential, but the winds aren't as clean.

Then we get a second, more serious window. Sunday, September 27th is the big one. That morning, Trespassers is looking at a massive 10ft SSW swell with an incredibly long 18-second period. The combined energy is off the charts at 7428, and you've got light offshore winds. This is expert territory, and it's going to be a serious, heavy reef. This is not for the faint of heart. The following Monday the 28th is also excellent, with a 10ft S swell and glassy conditions – just incredible.

Crowds can pop up at Trespassers sometimes, but on those big days, the crowd will sort itself out quick. The first week’s best is Wednesday afternoon and Thursday. The second week’s standout is the 27th and 28th, but remember, that’s far out and forecasts can shift.

Keep your eyes on the charts.

Rusty.

Read more