Trespassers Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, this is Rusty, and I’ve been staring at the charts for the Trespassers zone. Let’s talk about the next couple of weeks.

Right off the bat, it’s a rough start. The first few days are a write-off. Friday the 24th of July through the weekend is just ugly: onshore winds, rain, and choppy, poor surf. The water is 59°, which is pretty much average for this time of year, so nothing weird there.

The first real glimmer comes on Sunday the 26th morning. A tiny 3ft SW swell rolls in, but the real story is the glassy wind. It’s clean, but it’s small. The combined energy is weak (224). It’s surfable but nothing to get excited about. That glassy window is short-lived as the cross-onshore wind kicks back in by the afternoon.

Monday the 27th is a mess. Strong winds, messy cross-onshore conditions, and the swell jumps to 7ft in the afternoon, but it’s blown out.

Tuesday the 28th sees a big pulse of energy from the southwest, with a very long period of 15 seconds and combined energy of 2165 in the morning. That’s a lot of juice, but it’s all cross-onshore and choppy. The size is 6ft, which is starting to get a bit much for beginners, but the wind ruins it for everyone.

The first real standout comes on Wednesday the 29th. The morning shows a solid 6ft SW groundswell with a period of 15 seconds, and the wind is a light cross-shore from the south. The combined energy is strong (1461). This is a reef break, so that long-period groundswell will love it here, offering well-shaped, powerful waves. The conditions are only marginal, but this is the first session that actually has a chance of being fun. The afternoon is a bit smaller but still has potential.

Thursday the 30th morning is the best of the whole first week. A clean, cross-offshore wind from the NNE, a 4ft SSW swell, and the report says "expect good surf conditions." The energy is 434, so it’s moderate, but the cleanliness will make it feel way better. This is the one to aim for.

After that, we hit a long dry spell. From Friday the 31st through to Monday the 3rd of August, it’s a mix of small, weak swells and poor wind. The pick of that litter is Sunday the 2nd of August afternoon: a solid 5ft SSW groundswell with a 17-second period, combined energy of 1352, and a clean cross-offshore wind. The report actually says "excellent surf conditions for experienced surfers." That’s the big call for the second week. It’s still a week and a half away, so it’s promising but not locked in. The size is just right for experienced surfers, and the reef will handle that long period beautifully.

The very end of the forecast, around the 6th and 7th of August, shows huge swell, over 10ft, but the wind is a total disaster (near gale, onshore). That’s for experts only, and even then, it’s going to be a washing machine. The energy readings are massive (over 7000), but it’s a full-on storm. That setup is more interesting for kite surfers than paddle surfers.

So, to sum it up: the best bet in the first week is Thursday morning the 30th of July at Trespassers. In the second week, keep an eye on Sunday afternoon the 2nd of August. Everything else is either too small, too windy, or too far out to trust.

Rusty.

Read more