Trespassers Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Right then, let’s talk about Trespassers. This is a solid advanced reef set-up, and it’s going to see a lot of action over the next couple of weeks, but the timing is everything. The water’s sitting at 59°, which is pretty much what you’d expect for this time of year, nothing weird going on there.

We start off on Wednesday the 29th with a bit of a shrug. The swell’s there, a decent 7ft from the SSW with a very long 16-second period, and the combined energy is strong at 2469 – that’s proper groundswell. But the wind is cross-on from the SSW at 9 mph, making it choppy. The afternoon cleans up a fraction but is still far from good. Thursday the 30th is where it starts to turn. We’ve got a drop in size to 4ft, still from the SSW, period dropping to 13 seconds, but the energy is moderate at 497. The morning has clean conditions with a light SE cross-off breeze at 3 mph. Then the afternoon goes glassy, with a 4ft SW swell and a 13-second period. That is the standout window. Clean, glassy conditions on a reef break with a long-period swell – that’s going to be some tidy, lined-up surfing. It’s not huge, but the quality is there. Keep in mind it’s an advanced spot, so it’s not for beginners anyway.

Friday the 31st stays small, 3ft to 2ft, with clean cross-off breezes. Surfable for sure, but not the highlight of the run.

Then we hit a wall. From Saturday the 1st of August right through to Wednesday the 13th of August, it’s a long, ugly stretch. The wind gets nasty – strong cross-shore, onshore, and some proper gale-force stuff – and the swell direction and period create a mess. The swell sizes bounce between 3ft and 12ft, but the wind comment for most of these is “poor surf conditions” or “marginal.” The 12ft on the 9th of August is a big swell, but with a 16 mph cross-wind and a short 12-second period, it’s just a lumpy, blown-out nightmare. The combined energy is very strong (3172), but the wind kills it. Do not paddle out for those days unless you’ve got a kite. The reef set-up will be handling that energy, but the surface will be shocking.

The only flicker in that wasteland is on Tuesday the 5th of August. A 4ft SSW swell, with a 17-second period (very long), combined energy of 875 (moderate), and a cross-off wind. It’s listed as marginal, but that long period groundswell on a reef can be clean even with a bit of wind. It’s a gamble, but for the crew who know the spot, it might be the only session in that whole ten-day gap.

So, the best on offer is Thursday the 30th of July. The morning is clean cross-off, the afternoon is flat glass. Swell is 4-4ft, 13-second period, SSW-SW. That is the one to circle.

Rusty.

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