Trespassers Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s get into it. We’ve got a bit of a waiting game on our hands, but the second half of this forecast window is looking like it could be something special for the experienced crew.

The first real swell action kicks off Tuesday morning, the 8th of September. We’re looking at a solid 5ft SSW groundswell pushing in with a very long 17-second period. The water temp is sitting at 59°, which is about average for this time of year. The wave energy is strong here, clocking in at (1352). The wind is light and offshore from the ENE, so the conditions are going to be clean. This is a standout session for the early part of the week, but make no mistake, this is for advanced surfers only at Trespassers. The wave quality is going to be excellent, but it’s a reef break and it’s fairly consistent, so expect some power. The crowd situation is a possibility, but with that swell size and the difficulty, it might keep the numbers down.

Tuesday afternoon sees the wind swing to a cross-onshore, and the quality drops right off. That’s a write-off.

Wednesday the 9th brings a bigger pulse, with swell hitting 7ft to 7ft from the SSW with a 19-second period. The energy is cranking (3001). However, the wind is a stiff 19 mph cross-offshore from the SE. It’s clean, but that’s a lot of juice. This is expert territory, and for the average surfer, it’s going to be a handful. The conditions are marginal, so it’s a pick-and-choose day.

Thursday the 10th is a real highlight. The swell drops back to a manageable 6ft in the morning, still from the SSW with a 16-second period. The wind is offshore from the E at 16 mph, giving us clean, lined-up waves. The energy is strong (1713). This is a top-tier morning for experienced surfers. The afternoon holds up nicely too, with the swell easing to 5ft and the wind staying offshore, making it a very good session.

Friday the 11th is a great day for the punters. The swell drops to 4ft to 4ft, the period is still a solid 16 seconds, and the wind is light and offshore or glassy. The energy is moderate (576-749). The conditions are clean, and the surf is good. This is a fun, accessible day for a wider range of surfers.

Saturday the 12th is a bit mixed. The swell is small at 4ft to 4ft, and while the wind is cross-offshore, the quality is on the fence. The morning is questionable, but the afternoon looks better.

From Sunday the 13th through to Monday the 21st of September, we hit a real lull. The swell drops to under 3ft, and the wind is mostly onshore or cross-onshore, making for poor conditions. That’s a long stretch of flat and messy days.

Then, we get a resurgence. Tuesday the 15th sees a small bump of 4ft to 4ft with offshore wind. It’s not huge, but it’s a sign of life.

Wednesday the 16th is a good step up. We’ve got 5ft SSW swell, a 16-second period, and gentle offshore wind. The energy is moderate (1057). It’s very clean, and it’s a good session for the experienced surfer who’s been waiting.

The real standout for the second week is Monday the 21st of September. The swell jumps to 7ft in the morning and 7ft in the afternoon, both from the SSW with a 17-second period. The wind is light and cross-offshore from the NNE. The energy is strong (2667-2404). This is a quality, powerful swell. It’s expert-only territory, but if you’ve got the skills, this is the best session on offer in the whole outlook. The wave quality is excellent, the conditions are clean, and the long-period groundswell will be hitting the reef at Trespassers beautifully. Just be aware that with a period that long, the sets will be widely spaced.

The rest of the period after that Monday gets messy again with strong onshore winds. So, bottom line: this week has a couple of solid windows, with Thursday the 10th and Friday the 11th being the best for the average good surfer, while Monday the 21st of September is the one for the hardcore crew.

Rusty.

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