Trespassers Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s get into it for our local patch.

We’ve got a pretty average run ahead, not gonna lie. The first week is a bit of a battle with onshore winds and messy conditions, but there are a couple of windows that’ll be worth paddling out for. The standout sessions are later in the forecast, but even then, you’ll need to pick your moment.

Okay, let’s start with the early part. Wednesday the 2nd is a washout. We’ve got a 4.6 ft SSW swell with a 15-16 second period, which is nice and long, but the W wind is straight onshore at 9 mph and it’s just poor. Combined energy is 955 – weak to moderate. Not worth a look.

Thursday the 3rd is a bit bigger, with the swell building to 7.2 ft from the WSW, period 14 seconds, but that cross-onshore wind at 12 mph is ruining it. The energy jumps to 3662, so there’s plenty of push, but it’s choppy and messy. Still a write-off.

Friday the 4th is a little better. The swell drops to 6.9 ft from the SSW, still with a long 16-second period, but the wind has swung to the N, putting it cross-shore at 12 mph. The energy is 2178. It’s surfable if you’re desperate, but the waves are lumpy with a cross-chop. Not great.

Now, here’s a bit of a glimmer. Saturday the 6th of September. The swell is 5.9 ft from the SW, 14 second period, and the energy is 1314. But the magic is the wind: NNE at 6 mph, light and cross-offshore. The water is about average for the time of year at 59.4°F with a 1.3°F anomaly – nothing wild. This is a clean session, and the guidance says “expect very good surf conditions.” For this spot, Trespassers, a reef break that’s fairly consistent and for advanced guys, that offshore wind makes it a real standout. The swell direction is SSW, which is bang on the optimum. This is our best bet in the first week. Crowds are “sometimes” here, so you might have a few others in the water, but with conditions this good, it’s worth it.

The rest of the first week and into the second week is a mixed bag. Sunday the 7th is small, dropping to 2.6 ft, with a 21-second period which is very long. That super long period will make it break straight at a beach break, but this is a reef, so it might work. Wind is offshore from the ESE at 12 mph, but the wave height is tiny. Energy is 251. Not really worth it.

Monday the 8th of September looks promising again. The swell comes back up to 5.6 ft from the SSW, with a 17-second period, and the wind is cross-offshore from the SE at 9 mph. The energy is 1607. The guidance calls it “excellent surf conditions for experienced surfers.” This is a proper groundswell – long period, clean conditions. The only caveat is that long period swell can be a bit too straight for beach breaks, but on a reef like Trespassers, it should be lining up nicely. This is another standout.

After that, Tuesday the 9th and Wednesday the 10th have decent swell (6.6 ft to 7.5 ft) but the wind picks up to 22 mph cross-offshore, making it fresh and a bit tricky. The energy is strong (2878 to 3164), but the conditions are only marginal. Not a total write-off for the experienced crew, but not the best.

Thursday the 10th of September shapes up again. Swell is 6.2 ft from the SSW, period 16 seconds, and the wind is offshore from the E at 19 mph. Energy is 1975. The afternoon is even better with 5.6 ft, offshore wind from the ENE at 12 mph, and the guidance says “excellent surf conditions for experienced surfers.” This is a solid session.

Then we hit a flat spell. Friday the 11th and Saturday the 12th are small and poor, with onshore winds. From Monday the 14th, things get interesting again. A 3.6 ft to 3.3 ft SW swell shows up, but the wind is offshore from the ENE, and on the afternoon of the 14th, we get glassy conditions. That’s a rare treat. The energy is low (384 to 482), but the waves will be clean and fun for a smaller board.

The last few days of the forecast, from the 16th and 17th of September, see a big pulse of swell hitting 8.2 ft from the SW, with periods of 16 seconds. The energy is strong (3319 to 3565). But the wind is cross-onshore to onshore, so it’s going to be messy and choppy. This is big, powerful stuff, over 8.2 ft, so only for experts, and even then, the wind is a problem.

So, to wrap it up: the best sessions are the morning of Saturday the 6th of September, and the morning of Monday the 8th of September. Those are the ones to circle on the calendar. The rest is a lot of waiting and dodging wind.

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