Trespassers Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let’s talk about what’s happening at Trespassers for the next couple of weeks. I gotta be honest, the first week is a bit of a slog. We’ve got swell, but the wind is fighting us, and the conditions just aren’t coming together. We’re looking at a 6-day wait before anything decent shows up.

The start on Wednesday the 22nd is a total bust. There’s a 4ft SSW swell with a 13-second period, and the combined energy is 513 – that’s weak to moderate. But the wind is a choppy cross-onshore at 15 mph. The water’s at 59°, which is pretty normal for the time of year.

Thursday the 23rd, the swell jumps to 6ft, with a long 14-second period from the SSW, and the energy hits 1126. Sounds good, but it’s still cross-onshore and messy. By the afternoon, it’s a 6ft SSW swell with a very long 15-second period (energy 1982), but the wind is straight cross-shore, making it lumpy and rough. Not worth paddling out.

Friday the 24th, we’ve got a 5ft SSW swell, still long-period at 15 seconds, but the wind is onshore or cross-onshore all day. No good. Saturday the 25th, the swell drops right off to under 3ft, and while the wind turns offshore, the forecast is still poor. Sunday the 26th, the swell is tiny, and the wind is light and all over the place.

Monday the 27th is more of the same – small, weak, and cross-onshore. Nothing worth chasing.

Now, here’s the moment you’ve been waiting for. Tuesday the 28th is the absolute standout. This is the best we’ll get in the whole 16 days. The morning brings a 4ft SSW swell, with a very long 16-second period (energy 962), and the wind is a clean cross-offshore from the NNE. That’s a green light. But the afternoon is even better – the wind drops to a glassy ESE breeze at just 3 mph, making the conditions perfect. The swell is still a clean 4ft with a 15-second period. This is the day to go. It’s a reef break, so those long-period swells will be clean. Just be aware, the crowds can be around here sometimes.

The rest of the week is okay, but not as good. Wednesday the 29th and Thursday the 30th have clean, cross-offshore winds, but the swell is dropping, from 4ft down to 3ft, and the energy is fading. It’s rideable, but nothing special.

Friday the 31st, the swell is tiny at 2ft, and the wind is clean but light. It’s a small-wave day.

Now, the second week gets a bit wild. Saturday the 1st of August is a mess – strong cross-shore winds at 25 mph, and a messy 5ft swell. Not for surfing. Sunday the 2nd, the swell picks up to 6ft from the SW (15-second period, energy 1726), and the afternoon gets clean cross-offshore winds. That’s a promising call, but it’s a week and a half out, so don’t plan your whole life around it.

Monday the 3rd and Tuesday the 4th, we get a massive spike in swell – 10ft and 8ft from the SW, with monstrous energy readings (over 6000). But the wind is howling onshore at 25-31 mph, so it’s going to be a total washing machine. This is for experts only, and honestly, it looks more like a kite-surfing session than a paddle-surfing one.

The last day of the forecast, Thursday the 6th of August, the wind goes glassy, and the swell is 3ft but with a very long 18-second period and energy of 611. It’s a clean, small wave if you’re desperate, but it’s not the day.

So, to wrap it up: Tuesday the 28th of July is your best bet. Go for the afternoon session. That glassy, clean 4ft SSW groundswell will be the highlight of the whole run.

Rusty.

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