Trespassers Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, this is Rusty comin' at you from the beach.

First up, the vibes for Trespassers. This is an advanced reef set-up that needs a solid SSW groundswell to light up. We've got a bit of a slow start, with the first few days offering mostly small, clean conditions but nothing to get too excited about. The water temp is sitting about average for this time of year, so no surprise when you jump in.

Through the middle of the week starting September 16th, it's honestly a bit flat and a letdown. Wednesday the 16th has some chest-high swell from the SSW (6 ft) with a nice 15-second period, but the wind is a cross-offshore zephyr (12 mph) that's just messing up the lineup; the energy is strong (1190) but the scores say it's a no-go. Thursday the 17th is a tease. The morning is knee-to-waist high (4 ft) and clean, but the real gem is Thursday afternoon. The wind goes totally glassy (0 mph) on a 3 ft SSW swell with a 14-second period. The energy is moderate (402) but the conditions are perfect. That afternoon window is the absolute best on offer in this first week—a clean, glassy reef wave no one is on. It's small, but for a few hours, it'll be magic.

Friday the 18th through the weekend (19th and 20th) is a write-off. Cross-shore winds and onshore slop kill any chance of a decent wave. We've got a gap of poor conditions right through Sunday.

Things start to look up again on Monday the 21st with a cleaner cross-off breeze and a 4 ft SW swell (537), but the real highlight is shaping up for September 22nd. Tuesday the 22nd is a standout. Morning has a solid 5 ft SSW swell (842) with 15-second energy and a clean offshore wind from the east (12 mph). Afternoon is even better—5 ft (962), same direction and period, with a light offshore breeze (6 mph). This is the pick of the first ten days: solid, clean, and good energy.

The next few days drop off again into messy, onshore winds and smaller swell through the 23rd to the 25th. Then, on September 26th there’s a massive spike in swell from a very long period (21 seconds) SSW pulse, but the wind is a strong cross-offshore (19 mph) and it's just too wild. The energy is huge (1311) but the conditions are poor.

The very end of the window, however, has a banger. September 30th (Wednesday morning) is the standout of the entire forecast. We’re looking at a 5 ft SSW groundswell with a long 18-second period and a massive energy reading of 1633. The wind is a gentle cross-offshore breeze (9 mph) and the conditions are clean. This is an excellent, powerful wave for experienced surfers only. That morning session is the one to circle on the calendar.

The first week of October (October 1st) brings another clean, cross-off day with a 4 ft SSW swell and 17-second period, but the wind is a bit stronger (16 mph). It's worth a look, but not the same magic as the 30th.

Overall, if you’re an advanced surfer, the clear standout is the morning of September 30th. For a more manageable, glassy session, grab Thursday the 17th afternoon.

Rusty

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