Trespassers Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, grabbing the board for a look at the 16-day forecast. It's a one-break show here, and it's a real rollercoaster.

Water temps are sitting at 58°F, pretty much normal for the time of year.

We start off this Saturday, August 29th, with a clean 4ft swell from the SW, with a nice 14-second period. The wind is a gentle offshore from the ESE, so the waves will be glassy and clean. The combined energy is moderate (469), so it's a fun, manageable size. Saturday afternoon stays clean, dropping to 3ft.

Sunday the 30th keeps the clean, offshore winds. Morning swell is 3ft from the SSW, but the afternoon is the real oddball. The period jumps to 19 seconds, a proper long-period groundswell, but the height is only 2ft. That long period will give it some serious grunt and shape, but with long waits between sets. It's a reef break, so it'll handle that long period better than a beach.

The absolute standout is Monday, August 31st. The morning is clean, with a 4ft SSW swell, 16-second period, and a light cross-offshore breeze. The combined energy is a strong 1229. Then Monday afternoon is the peak of the whole forecast. We're talking a clean 5ft, 18-second, SSW swell with light offshore winds. The energy is screaming at 1551. The waves will be powerful, well-shaped, and clean. This is for experienced surfers – the size and period are serious. No crowds mentioned, so you could have it to yourself.

But then the wheels fall off. From Tuesday, September 1st, through the end of the second week, the wind goes onshore, cross-shore, or just blows a gale. There are a few days where the swell size is still solid (5ft to 8ft+), but the wind is howling. From September 5th to 7th, we have near-gale onshore winds and massive swell energy (over 4000). That’s a total blown-out, dangerous mess. For a reef, that's a washing machine. Kite surfers might find those strong cross-onshore days with big lumps (like 8ft on the 5th) more interesting than paddle surfers.

From September 8th to 12th, conditions improve slightly, but the wave comments are all “marginal” due to wind chop. The swell stays around 5ft to 6ft, which is good size, but the wind is mostly cross-shore. By the 10th, we get a clean morning with a 6ft SSW swell and light winds, which is a glimmer of hope, but it's a long way out. The 13th of September rolls back into poor conditions with fresh cross-shore winds.

The second week is a real gamble. The 10th of September morning looks promising, but it's a week and a half away. The rest is a struggle with lumpy, cross-shore chop.

So, here's the call: Monday, August 31st is your day. The Saturday and Sunday before are clean, fun sessions, but Monday is the standout. After that, it's a long, frustrating stretch of wind-affected, poor-quality surf, with only a few marginal windows. It's a classic short, sharp window of greatness, then a long wait.

Rusty

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