Trespassers Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here. Let’s talk about what’s on the table for the next couple of weeks at Trespassers. This is a reef break for the advanced crew, fairly consistent, and it gets pretty exposed to the south-west swell. The water temp is sitting at about 58°, which is pretty much spot on average for this time of year, so no weirdness there.

Right off the bat, it’s a bit of a slow start. Thursday afternoon is a write-off – onshore wind and rain, with a big 5ft swell (combined energy of 1559) but it’s all blown out. You’d be a fool to paddle out. Friday and Saturday look marginal at best with onshore and cross-onshore winds, even though the swell hangs around the 5ft to 6ft mark. The energy is still strong (1447 to 1643), but the wind just kills it. Not worth getting wet for.

Now, Sunday the 23rd of August is where it gets interesting. That’s your standout morning. The wind swings to a light cross-offshore breeze from the NNE, and you’ve got a clean 5ft groundswell pumping in from the SW with a 17-second period (combined energy 1433). That’s a long-period groundswell – it’ll have real shape and power, and the clean conditions will make it an excellent session for experienced surfers. The break might get a bit of a crowd, so be ready to share, but it’s the best call of the whole run.

After that, the week eases off. Monday morning is still rideable with a dropping 3ft swell, but Tuesday and Wednesday get messy again with strong cross-shore winds, despite the swell hanging around 5ft to 6ft. Not ideal.

Thursday the 27th of August has a weird one – a tiny 3ft swell with a 21-second period (combined energy 878). That’s a super long-period swell, which at a reef can mean some real nice, lined-up waves, but the crosswind will mess with it. Friday holds around 5ft to 5ft but the wind is mostly on it.

Then we get another little window. Saturday the 29th of August morning sees a fresh offshore ESE breeze of 30 km/h with a 6ft WSW swell (period 10 seconds). That’s going to be clean and punchy. It’s a bit solid at 6ft, so it’s for the experienced lot, but it’ll be good. The afternoon is even better with a moderate offshore and a 6ft SW swell (combined energy 1131). That’s a strong call for a fun, clean session.

Sunday the 30th keeps the clean theme with a lighter cross-offshore breeze and 5ft to 6ft swells. Not as powerful, but very rideable. Monday the 31st drops right off, and Tuesday the 1st of September brings back a bigger 7ft swell (period 10 seconds) but with cross-shore winds – marginal.

Looking into the second week, Wednesday the 2nd of September has some promise with a clean cross-offshore wind and 6ft SW swell (period 14 seconds, combined energy 1409). That’s a solid, clean wave for the advanced guys. But by Thursday and Friday, the wind gets nasty again – strong breezes and onshore flow ruin a 5ft to 7ft swell. Not your friend.

All in all, the clear winner is Sunday morning the 23rd of August. Clean, powerful, long-period groundswell. Saturday the 29th is your backup. The rest is a mix of wind-affected and marginal conditions. Keep your eye on the long-range, because it’s promising but not locked in.

Rusty.

Read more