Trespassers Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s get into it.

We’ve got a solid run of swell coming through for Trespassers, but it’s a real mixed bag of conditions. The first few days, we’re sitting it out, waiting for the wind to play nice. The real standout is going to be that Sunday morning session, but hold on, because there’s a wildcard later in the forecast that has me pretty fired up.

The first real opportunity is Sunday, the 6th of September. This is the one. We’re seeing a 6ft groundswell from the SSW, with a period of 14 seconds. That’s proper energy, and with the wind going glassy – you heard that right, glassy – it’s going to be clean as a whistle. The combined energy is a solid 1150 (moderate), so there’s some push there. It’s a reef break for advanced surfers, so it’s not for the faint of heart, but if you’ve got the skills, this is the best on offer. The water temp is about average for the time of year, nothing weird going on.

Monday, the 7th, drops right off. The swell drops to 3ft, but the wind goes offshore in the afternoon. It’s small, but if you’re desperate for a clean, gentle wave, the ESE wind at 15 km/h will make it look pretty. The combined energy is down to 429 (weak), so it’s a longboard or a foiler kind of day.

Tuesday, the 8th, is another cracker. We’re back to 5ft from the SSW, but check out that period – 17 seconds. That’s very long period groundswell. The wind is light offshore from the E at 10 km/h, making for clean conditions. The energy is up to 1352 (moderate). This is a standout for the experienced crew. Just remember, with a period that long, it can be a bit straight at a beach break, but on a reef like Trespassers, it should line up nicely.

Midweek starts to get a bit messy. Wednesday the 9th and Thursday the 10th have solid swell – 7ft to 8ft – but the wind is howling from the SSE and SE at 35-40 km/h. It’s cross-off, which keeps it clean, but that’s a lot of wind. The energy is strong (3298-2377), so it’s powerful, but it’s a big-boy session. Friday the 11th and Saturday the 12th are small again, with 3ft to 4ft, but offshore winds keep them clean. Not a standout, just a fun little window.

Then we hit a real rough patch from Sunday the 13th all the way through Wednesday the 16th. The wind is onshore, cross-on, or just plain messy, with speeds up to 35 km/h. The swell is there, between 5ft and 7ft, but the conditions are poor. It’s a write-off for paddle surfing. Honestly, with that much wind and a beach-and-reef setup, it might be more interesting for the kite surfers. Combined energy is moderate to strong (385-2661), but the wind is ruining it.

Now, here’s the wildcard. Thursday the 17th of September. This is a serious episode. We’ve got a massive 10ft swell from the SSW, with a period of 18 seconds. The combined energy is 7664 (strong). That is a lot of water moving. The wind is cross-off from the SSE at 25 km/h, so it’s clean. This is only for experts – 10ft on a reef is serious business. It’s a long-range forecast, so it’s promising but not locked in, but if it shows up, it’s going to be the day of the month.

Friday the 18th is still solid, with 7ft from the SSW and a 16-second period, and the wind drops to a light 10 km/h cross-off. Clean and powerful. That’s a great follow-up day if you survived Thursday.

Saturday the 19th fades out. 4ft from the SW with a light cross breeze. Small end to a big run.

Overall, the best bet is Sunday the 6th for the glassy conditions, and keep an eye on Thursday the 17th for the big, clean groundswell. That’s the one to circle on the calendar.

Rusty.

Read more