Trespassers Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let's get into it. This is Rusty.

The first week of this forecast has a lot of lumpy, onshore-affected surf, and we’ll be waiting until the morning of Friday the 23rd before we see anything that’s even close to decent. Even then, it’s a bit of a tease. The real standout starts to come together around the 26th, and then again late in the run on the 29th.

The only spot we’re looking at is Trespassers. It’s an advanced reef break, and it’s fairly consistent. The water temp is sitting at 59°F, which is about normal for this time of year, so no surprises there.

For the first few days, it’s grim. Wednesday and Thursday mornings are a write-off with strong cross-on winds and poor surf. The swell is there, but it’s not clean. The combined energy on Wednesday afternoon hits 1589 (moderate to strong), but a 30 km/h onshore wind just ruins it. Friday the 21st is a bit of a tease – we’ve got a 5ft swell from the SW, but the wind is still cross-on and the conditions are “marginal.” It’s a no-go.

Saturday the 22nd is similar. The swell is pumping, with a 6ft SW swell and a 16-second period, but the energy is high (1466) and the wind is still cross-on. The morning is the best of a bad bunch, with a light breeze and small wind ripples, but it’s still not what you’d paddle out for.

Now, Sunday the 23rd is the first real glimmer. The morning brings a clean 5ft SW groundswell (a 17-second period) with a light cross-off breeze from the NNE. The combined energy is 1193 (moderate). This is the first time we see “clean” in the data, and with a score of 3, it’s the best on offer so far. It’s not huge, but it’s the closest we get to quality in the first week. The afternoon goes cross-shore, so the window is narrow.

Then we hit a flat spot. Monday the 24th is a dud with light rain and onshore wind, and the swell drops to 3ft.

Tuesday the 25th brings a bigger, messier swell. 7ft from the SW at 13 seconds, but with a cross-shore wind and a cross-chop, it’s not a paddle session. The energy is strong (1638), but the conditions are marginal. For a reef break, that period is a bit short, and the wind is going to make it a battle.

Alright, here’s the real standout. Wednesday the 26th. The morning is glassy. A 4ft SW swell, but the wind is dead calm – 5 km/h from the W. The combined energy is 431 (moderate), and the conditions are described as “glassy.” This is a window of pure, clean surf. It’s not a big day, but it’s a perfect little morning session for the advanced crew. After that, the wind turns onshore again.

The next few days are a mix of clean but small surf. Friday the 28th has a stronger 6ft SW swell (16-second period, 1694 energy), but it’s cross-shore and marginal. Saturday the 29th is where it gets interesting again. The morning has a 4ft SSW swell with a light cross-off breeze from the ESE. The afternoon is where it’s at: a 3ft SSW swell with a clean offshore wind from the ESE. The energy is 411 (moderate), but it’s clean. This is a good, fun-size afternoon session.

Sunday the 30th is a proper drop-off. The swell is tiny at 1ft, but with a 19-second period and clean offshore wind, it’s a longboarder’s dream. The energy is low (392), but it’s a beautiful, glassy day.

The rest of the forecast into September is small, clean, and marginal. The swell stays under 4ft, and the winds are generally offshore or cross-off. It’s not a week for power, but for a clean, cruisy board, there are some nice windows.

So, the best on offer? Wednesday the 26th morning for that glassy, clean 4ft swell. And Saturday the 29th afternoon for the clean offshore wind and a fun-sized 3ft. The deep water swell on the 23rd is the best of the first week, but it’s a short window.

Rusty.

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