Trespassers Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here again. Let’s break this down in feet and miles per hour for the crew that thinks that way.

We’ve got one spot on the menu, and it’s a proper reef for the advanced guys. The first real window opens up on Friday, August 28th, and that’s where it’s at. The morning brings a clean 5ft SW groundswell with a long 16-second period, and a light offshore breeze from the NE. The water’s about average for the time of year. The combined energy is pumping hard at 1436, so there’s a ton of power in the water. This is the standout of the whole run – powerful, lined-up waves with that offshore polish. It’s a bit much for beginners, but if you’ve got the chops, this is the session to circle. The afternoon goes glassy with the wind dropping to zero, and the swell easing just a touch to 5ft, still with excellent energy (1115). Crowds are possible at this break, so get in early.

The run continues into the weekend. Saturday, August 29th offers clean 4ft SW swell in the morning with a light offshore ESE breeze, and the energy is moderate at 469. It’s a smaller, cleaner option for a fun longboard. The afternoon holds around 3ft with a cross-offshore breeze, still clean. Sunday, August 30th is smaller again, with 2ft SSW groundswell in the morning but a clean offshore breeze from the ESE. The period is a very long 20 seconds, which gives those waves great shape but also long waits between sets. The energy is still moderate (400). The afternoon picks up slightly to 3ft with a clean cross-offshore breeze.

Monday, September 1st sees a bump back up to 5ft SSW groundswell, but the wind is a cross-offshore from the NNE, keeping it clean. The energy is strong at 1471, but the wind’s not perfect. The afternoon gets a bit messier with a cross-shore breeze.

After that, it gets rough. From Tuesday, September 2nd right through to Monday, September 8th, we’re staring at a solid stretch of poor to marginal conditions. Onshore winds and choppy, bumpy seas dominate, with the odd bit of swell getting up to 6ft, but the wind is just ruining it. It’s a long gap of nothing worth paddling for.

Then, on Tuesday, September 8th, we get a late reprieve. The morning is glassy, with a clean 5ft SSW groundswell and a 17-second period. The energy is strong again at 1250. This is a promising look, but it’s two weeks out, so keep an eye on it. The afternoon turns onshore, so the window is tight.

Wednesday, September 9th and Thursday, September 10th look like they’ll be back to onshore slop, with the swell getting a bit bigger but the wind making it a mess.

So, the bottom line: don’t get your hopes up for the second week. The real gold is Friday, August 28th, with the morning session being the absolute best of the bunch. Go get some.

Rusty.

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