Trespassers Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, this is Rusty. Let’s take a look at the 16-day window for Trespassers, a reef break that only works on a solid SSW swell. The first week has some pulse, but the wind is mostly a mess. The early days are a write-off, but there’s a definite window of clean conditions towards the end of the first week and into the second week that’s worth waiting for.

We kick off on Monday, July 27, but it’s not really surfable. A 3ft to 3.5ft SW swell at 13 seconds is coming in, but the wind is a fresh cross-shore from the NNW at 19 mph, turning it into lumpy cross-chop. The wave energy is moderate (413-482), but the conditions are poor. Tuesday, July 28, sees a jump in swell to 7ft from the SW, with a better 15-second period, but the wind is howling onshore from the WSW at 22 mph. That’s blown out and messy. The combined energy is very strong (2142-2010), but it’s a no-go for surfing.

Wednesday, July 29, the swell is still a solid 7ft from the SSW at 16 seconds (2717 energy), but it’s a cross-onshore wind from the SW at 9 mph, making it choppy. The surf is marginal. The water temp is about average for the time of year, nothing unusual. The bigger sets are over 8ft, so this is expert territory only.

Then things change. Thursday, July 30, is the standout of the first week. The swell drops to a clean 4ft from the SSW, with a 13-second period, and the wind becomes glassy – a light SE at 3 mph in the morning, then a glassy SSW at 3 mph in the afternoon. The wave energy is moderate (483-394), but the conditions are excellent. This is the best window for a surfer who can handle a reef break. The crowds are listed as “sometimes” possible, so expect company.

Friday, July 31, is a smaller day with a 2.5ft SW swell. The wind is a light cross-offshore from the NE and NNE at 6-9 mph, making it clean. The energy is weak (213-332), but it’s surfable. Good for a longboard or a small-wave board.

Saturday, August 1, the swell builds back to 4ft from the SSW, but the period jumps to 19 seconds – a very long groundswell. The wind is a moderate cross-shore from the north at 12-16 mph, creating a cross-chop. The energy is strong (1147), but the conditions are marginal. The long period will make it break straight at a beach, but for a reef like Trespassers, it could be lined up, but the wind is the problem.

Sunday, August 2, is a write-off with a strong cross-onshore wind and lumpy 6ft swell.

The first week has a good window on Thursday, July 30, for clean, glassy conditions. The best option is that morning session.

Now, moving into the second week. The pattern is up and down, but there is a solid window.

Monday, August 3, and Tuesday, August 4, see a drop in swell. Tuesday, August 4, is the pick of the early week. A 4ft to 3.5ft SW swell with a light cross-offshore from the SSE at 3 to 6 mph. The energy is moderate (532-390), and the conditions are clean. Wednesday, August 5, is the absolute standout of the entire forecast. The swell is 3.5ft to 4.5ft from the SSW, with a very long period of 16 to 19 seconds. The wind is light and offshore from the SE, then glassy from the SSE. The wave energy is moderate to strong (723-1137), and the conditions are very good. This is a classic clean groundswell for the reef. The long period will make the sets line up perfectly. A top-tier day.

Thursday, August 6, still has clean conditions with a 3ft SSW swell and a moderate offshore wind from the east at 9-12 mph. Clean, but smaller.

Friday, August 7, through Sunday, August 9, deteriorates quickly with strong cross-shore and onshore winds, making the surf poor. The swell is there, but it’s blown out. Sunday, August 9, has a near gale cross-onshore from the NW at 31 mph, with 5.5ft of swell – completely unsurfable. That’s kite-surfing territory, not paddle surfing.

Monday, August 10, is still messy with strong cross-onshore winds and 6ft of swell. Poor.

The outlook brightens on Tuesday, August 11. A 4ft SW swell with a light cross-offshore wind from the NE at 6 mph. The energy is moderate (584), and the conditions are clean. A solid end to the window.

The true standouts are Thursday, July 30, and Wednesday, August 5. The 5th is the bigger, cleaner, longer-period swell. If you’re an expert, that’s the one to circle. The gap between these two good days is a few days of wind, but the second week has a longer clean run.

R

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