Trespassers Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s on the menu at Trespassers over the next 16 days.

Right off the bat, I gotta be straight with you – the next week and a half is a bit of a struggle. The water is sitting at 60°F, which is bang on average for this time of year, so no need for a thicker suit just yet. But the surf? It’s mostly mediocre to poor until we get past the 23rd. There’s a long gap here with no real recommendations, so don’t be in a rush.

Saturday afternoon the 18th kicks things off with a tiny 3ft SW swell (208 combined energy), and the wind is a clean cross-off from the NNE at 10 km/h. It’s surfable, but it’s very ordinary – not worth paddling out for. Sunday and Monday are a write-off: small, messy, and cross/onshore winds. The swell picks up a bit on Tuesday the 22nd, around 5ft to 5ft, but with a 30 km/h cross-on wind, it’s just a lumpy mess. The combined energy gets up to 1048 by Tuesday afternoon, but the quality is shot.

Things start looking a little more interesting around Thursday the 23rd. We’ve got a 6ft SSW swell rolling in with a 14-second period (combined energy of 1193), and the wind is a gentle cross-shore from the S at 15 km/h. This is a longer-period groundswell, which gives the waves more shape and energy, but it also means longer lulls between sets. The conditions are still marginal, but this is the first time the score starts to climb. Worth a look for the more experienced crew, as 6ft is getting a bit solid for beginners.

Friday the 24th drops back to 4ft, and the wind becomes cross-on or onshore, so it’s not great. Then Saturday the 25th morning is the standout in this first week. The swell is 3ft from the SSW, period at 13 seconds, combined energy of 362, and the wind is a clean cross-off from the NNE at 15 km/h. The wave comment says “expect good surf conditions,” and the conditions are clean. This is a small but fun window for a savvy surfer who knows where to sit at this reef break. It’s a fairly consistent spot, so you’ll get waves. Crowds are sometimes an issue, so keep an eye out.

After that, Sunday the 26th through Tuesday the 29th is a total mess – strong winds, lumpy cross-chop, and onshore slop. Wednesday the 30th morning has a tiny 3ft wave with a clean cross-off, but it’s not worth the effort.

Now, if you’ve got patience, the end of the forecast window is where the real action might be. On Friday the 31st of July, we get a 1ft SW swell with a 20-second period (combined energy 198) and a clean offshore wind from the E at 15 km/h. That’s a very long-period groundswell – the kind that wraps around reefs and points, but can be too straight for beach breaks. Trespassers is a reef, so this could be a gem, but it’s tiny. Not a standout.

The real tease is the first couple of days of August. Saturday the 1st has a 4ft SW swell, 17-18 second period, combined energy around 749-809, and cross-off winds in the morning. The conditions are clean, but the score is still marginal. Then Sunday the 2nd – hold onto your board – we’ve got a massive 12ft SW swell, 16-second period, combined energy of over 5600. That’s a very strong, powerful swell. But the wind is a fresh cross-shore at 35 km/h, and the conditions are lumpy and poor. At 12ft, this is strictly for experts only, and with that wind, it’s a dangerous, blown-out mess. This is more of a kite-surfing setup than a paddle session.

Best on offer: Thursday the 23rd July for the more experienced crew looking for size and power, with a 6ft SSW groundswell and gentle cross-shore wind. And Saturday the 25th July morning for a clean, small, user-friendly session.

Rusty.

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