Trespassers Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let’s get into it, folks. Rusty here.

Alright, listen up. The next couple of weeks are a bit of a mixed bag, with the real standouts tucked away at the very beginning and then again about a week and a half from now. We’ve got a gap of a few days in between where the conditions just aren’t worth paddling for.

Let’s kick things off on Wednesday, the 26th of August. Trespassers (this is an advanced reef break) is looking sweet. The morning is glassy with a solid 4 ft SW groundswell at a long 13 seconds. The water is sitting at 59°, which is pretty much spot on for this time of year. The combined swell energy is moderate at 475, but with that offshore breeze and clean conditions, it’s going to be a fun session. It’s a fairly consistent spot, so you’ll get waves, but watch out – it can get crowded sometimes. For the morning, this is the call.

After that, things go downhill for a while. Wednesday afternoon gets a cross-on wind, and that messes up what was a clean morning. Thursday the 27th is a write-off with strong cross-shore winds. Friday the 28th morning brings a bigger pulse: 6 ft SW groundswell, still a long 16-second period. The wind is light and cross-offshore, keeping it clean. With combined energy of 1580, this is a powerful session, but at 6 ft on a reef for advanced surfers only. The swell is big enough that beginners should sit this one out. Friday afternoon goes glassy with 5 ft swell – another excellent window. Saturday and Sunday the 30th and 31st clean up nicely with lighter winds, but the swell drops back to around the 3 ft mark.

Now here comes the gap. From Monday the 31st afternoon through the middle of the next week, the wind turns onshore or cross-shore and stays messy. The swell is there, reaching 7 ft by the 5th of September, but it’s blown out and onshore – that’s more of a kiter’s day than a surfer’s, to be honest. You’ll be fighting onshore wind and chop. The combined energy spikes up into the thousands (2361 on the 5th afternoon) but the quality is just poor.

We come back to life on Monday the 7th of September. The morning is dead glassy with a 6 ft SW groundswell at 14 seconds. That’s clean, powerful, and the combined energy is 1250. This is for experienced surfers only, but it’s going to be a memorable session if you’re up for it.

But the true standout of the whole period is Tuesday the 8th of September. Both the morning and afternoon windows are incredible. The morning brings a 6 ft SSW groundswell at a very long 18 seconds, with a light offshore breeze from the east. Combined energy is a strong 1776. That’s a proper groundswell with heaps of energy – the sets will be clean, powerful, and well-spaced. The afternoon goes glassy, 5 ft, same long period, with combined energy still high at 1408. This is the session to circle on your calendar. Just remember, long-period swells like this can sometimes break a bit too straight at some beach breaks, but on this reef, it should line up beautifully.

Then it gets messy again from the 9th onwards with strong cross-shore winds and building, but choppy, swell. By the 10th, we see a massive 10 ft SW swell, but with a moderate cross-shore breeze and marginal conditions, that’s a big, raw ocean for experts only.

So to sum it up: grab Wednesday morning the 26th for a clean start, then hold out for Monday the 7th and absolutely do not miss Tuesday the 8th. The rest of the window is either too small, too windy, or too messy to get excited about.

Rusty.

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