Trespassers Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let's have a look at what's on the menu for our local reef, Trespassers.

We've got a bit of a mixed bag coming up over the next couple of weeks. The first real standout is going to be a window of very clean, long-period groundswell, but it's a ways off. We’ll see some good sessions in between, but you'll have to be patient.

Starting off this Sunday morning, August 23rd, we've got some serious energy in the water. A solid SW groundswell is pushing in at 5ft with a very long 17-second period. The combined energy is pumping at 1433, which is strong. Water temps are sitting right around average for this time of year at 59°. The wind is a light NNE cross-off, so the waves will be clean. This is excellent surf, but at this size with that much power, it’s really for the experienced crew only. Sunday afternoon holds similar, with 5ft swell from the SW and a 16-second period, still clean with light cross-off winds.

Monday, August 24th, sees a drop in size. Morning brings 3ft SW swell, but the period drops to 14 seconds and we've got a moderate NE breeze. The energy drops right off to 312, so it's looking pretty weak. Not worth rushing out for.

Tuesday the 25th, the swell bumps back up to 6ft from the SSW with a 16-second period, and the energy spikes to 2159. But the wind swings around to a moderate SSW cross, and then cross-on, making it choppy. It’s a no-go for a good surf.

Wednesday the 26th through Friday the 28th is a bit of a waiting game. Swell sizes bob around from 3ft to 6ft, but the wind is mostly cross or light. The real highlight is Friday afternoon, August 28th. The swell is 5ft from the SW with a 16-second period, but the wind goes glassy, going from a NW 3 mph breeze. The waves will be absolutely perfect, clean faces. The energy is still solid at 1101. That afternoon session is the pick of the first week.

Saturday the 29th is okay in the morning with a clean 4ft swell and light cross-off breeze, but the afternoon gets messy. Sunday the 30th and Monday the 31st look like another good run. We get a consistent 4ft to 5ft SSW/SW swell, with very clean conditions due to light cross-off winds. Those mornings will be worth a paddle.

After that, things go quiet. We've got a stretch from Tuesday, September 1st through Friday, September 4th where the conditions look poor. The swell is small and the wind is up, creating chop. It's a solid gap with no real recommendations.

Now, hold onto your board, because the big news is Sunday, September 6th. We've got a powerful SW groundswell hitting 7ft with a 16-second period. The combined energy is a massive 3271. And get this – the wind is forecast to be glassy from the south at only 3 mph. This is excellent surf, but that’s 7ft of very long-period groundswell. It’s going to be heaving and powerful, only for the experts. The period is so long it will be best handled at this reef break. Sunday afternoon the wind turns onshore, so that morning window is your one and only shot.

Monday, September 7th, the swell is still big at 6ft to 6ft, but a strong SW wind kicks up, making it a complete mess. That’s a pass.

So, the absolute standouts are Friday afternoon, August 28th for a clean, mid-sized session, and Sunday morning, September 6th for a big, powerful, glassy groundswell for the experts only.

Rusty.

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