Trespassers Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let’s talk this out in feet and miles. This is Rusty, and I’m looking at the next sixteen days for Trespassers. This reef break needs a solid SSW swell to fire, and we’ve got a long wait for the good stuff. The first few days are a total loss thanks to onshore winds, so don’t bother paddling out until we get some cleaner windows.

The forecast starts on Wednesday, 2nd September, but it’s a no-go. We’re looking at 5ft of SSW swell with a long 16-second period, but the wind is blowing straight on from the west at 9 mph, and it gets stronger in the afternoon. The combined wave energy is moderate at 959, but the surf is poor. Skip it.

Thursday, 3rd September, is more of the same. The swell bumps up to 7ft from the SW, period drops to 14 seconds, and the wind is a cross-onshore mess from the SW at 12 mph. The energy climbs to 1652, but it’s choppy and ugly. Friday morning, 4th September, shows a little hope with a cross-offshore breeze from the NNE at 9 mph. The swell is 7ft from the SSW, period 16 seconds, and the energy is strong at 2123. The surf is still marginal, but it’s clean. That’s the best of the first week, but it’s not a standout.

The weekend is a washout. Saturday, 5th September, has 8ft of SW swell with onshore winds, and Sunday, 6th September, is cleaner but the swell drops to 5ft. The energy is moderate at 1270, but the wave comment says marginal. Not worth the drive.

The real action starts to build around Monday, 8th September. The morning shows 7ft of SW swell with a very long 17-second period, and the wind is a cross-offshore breeze from the SSE at 19 mph. The energy is strong at 3183, and the surf is clean. This is a decent window, but it’s not the best.

Now, the standout comes on Wednesday, 9th September. We’ve got a solid 12ft of SSW swell, period stretching to 19 seconds – that’s a proper groundswell. The combined energy is massive at 8132, and the wind is a clean cross-offshore from the SSE at 22 mph. The surf is still marginal in the forecast, but the energy and size are undeniable. This is big, powerful, and only for experienced surfers – it’s over 8ft, so beginners stay on the beach. For experts, this is the one to circle on the calendar. The afternoon holds 10ft with similar conditions.

After that, the swell slowly backs off. Thursday, 10th September, has 7ft, and Friday, 11th September, drops to 4ft. The energy is low, but the wind is light and clean. The water temperature is about average for the time of year, nothing unusual to report.

The second week has a few more promising days. Saturday, 12th September, shows 5ft of SW swell with a light cross-offshore breeze, and the surf is expected to be very good. Clean, moderate energy at 1076. The afternoon gets choppy, so hit it early. Monday, 14th September, bumps up to 5ft in the morning and 6ft in the afternoon with a SSW direction and a 17-second period. The wind is clean, and the energy is moderate at 1994. This is a solid session.

The real treat in the second week is Tuesday, 15th September. The morning has 5ft of SW swell, period 16 seconds, and the wind is almost glassy from the SE at 3 mph. The surf is expected to be very good, energy is 993, and it’s clean. Then Wednesday, 16th September, dawns with glassy conditions from the NNE at 3 mph, 4ft of SSW swell, and a very good surf forecast. This is a classic dawny.

Finally, Thursday, 17th September, wraps it up with a bang. The morning has 6ft of SSW swell, a very long 18-second period, energy at 1858, and glassy conditions. The surf is described as excellent for experienced surfers. This is the second standout – clean, long-period groundswell, and the reef should handle it beautifully. Just remember, crowds are possible here, so get there early.

In summary: the first week is mostly a bust, with Friday morning, 4th September, as the only clean option. The big event is Wednesday, 9th September, for experts only. The second week has consistent, clean surf, with Tuesday, 15th September, and Thursday, 17th September, as the true standouts. Keep an eye on the long-range forecasts, but this is looking promising.

Rusty.

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