Trespassers Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s on the cards for Trespassers.

Right, we’ve got a solid run of swells coming in, but it’s a mixed bag of conditions. The water here is sitting at 59°, which is pretty much where you’d expect it to be for this time of year, nothing weird going on.

The action kicks off this Friday morning, the 4th of September. There’s a solid 7ft swell from the SSW, but it’s carrying a lot of energy (2151). The problem is a moderate cross-offshore breeze that’s going to keep things a bit messy. It’s surfable, but not the best we’ll see. The wind picks up in the afternoon, making it even less appealing.

Saturday the 5th is a write-off. Strong onshore winds and a messy lumpy swell. Not worth getting wet.

We get a bit of a breather on Sunday the 6th. The swell drops to 6ft, but the wind is light cross-onshore, so it’s small and bumpy. You’d be fighting for scraps.

Now, Monday the 7th is a small day. The swell is only 3ft from the SSW. But the wind is light and clean, so if you’ve got a big board, you might find a few fun little ones.

Tuesday the 8th is where it starts to get interesting. The morning looks promising. The swell is 5ft but it’s a long-period groundswell from the SSW (17 seconds). The wind is offshore and light, so the waves will be clean and well-shaped. This is a reef break, so that long period will translate into some proper, grinding lines. This is a standout for the experienced crew. The energy is strong (1352), so there’s plenty of push. It’s an advanced wave, and crowds are possible, so get there early.

Wednesday the 9th sees a big jump in size. The swell is 8ft to 8ft from the SSW, with a massive 20-second period, carrying very strong energy (4127). But the wind is a fresh cross-offshore, making it a bit tricky. The wave quality is there, but it’s going to be a handful. Thursday the 10th is a better bet. The swell drops to 6ft, the wind is offshore and clean, and the waves will be powerful. Another good day for the experienced surfer.

The swell fades over the weekend of the 12th and 13th, with small 3ft to 4ft surf. The wind on Saturday is light, so you might get a couple of rides, but Sunday is blown out.

We hit a flat spot from Monday the 14th through to Tuesday morning the 15th. The swell is tiny and the wind is messy.

Then things kick off again. Tuesday afternoon the 15th and Wednesday the 16th are the real standouts. The swell jumps to 10ft from the SW, with a long period (14-15 seconds) and very strong energy (2305-3424). The wind on Tuesday afternoon is a moderate cross-offshore, but on Wednesday afternoon, we get a glassy calm. For a reef break, that’s perfection. The waves will be big, powerful, and clean. This is expert territory only – 8ft to 10ft is serious. It’s a bit far out, so keep an eye on the forecast, but it’s looking like the best window of the whole run.

The end of the run from the 17th to the 19th sees the swell staying around 7ft to 8ft, but the wind is fresh and not ideal, so it’s a step down from that mid-week peak.

So, to sum it up: the best bets are Tuesday the 8th for a cleaner, more manageable solid swell, and then the big one on Wednesday the 16th for the glassy, powerful, expert-level session. Don’t waste your time on the weekend of the 12th.

Rusty.

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