Gilligans Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s coming our way.

Alright mate, we’ve got a bit of a mixed bag coming up at Gilligans. The overall pattern is that there’s always some swell, but the wind and conditions are often not playing ball. The water temp is sitting at 85°F, with a water temp anomaly of 0.9°F, so it’s pretty much average for this time of year. The combined energy is mostly moderate to strong, with readings like 2005 on the first Sunday.

Sunday the 23rd kicks it off, but honestly, it’s not great. We’ve got a 6ft SSW swell, with a period of 14 seconds, but the wind is a moderate cross-shore breeze from the SE at 12 mph, bringing a cross-chop. The morning is a better bet than the afternoon when the wind gets up to 16 mph. The wave comment calls it marginal, so keep your expectations low.

Monday the 24th is more of the same, with the swell holding around 6ft to 6ft, but the wind is still cross or cross-onshore and the forecast is still marginal.

Now, the standout window starts to show itself. Wednesday the 26th morning sees the swell drop a touch to 5ft from the SSW with a 13-second period. The wind switches to a light cross-offshore breeze from the ESE at 6 mph, and the conditions are described as clean. This is the first time the setup looks decent. The combined energy is moderate at 875, but the clean conditions make it feel better than it sounds.

The real gem is Thursday the 27th morning. This is the best on offer. We’ve got a 4ft SSW groundswell, but the period is a very long 19 seconds. That’s going to bring in plenty of energy, with a combined swell energy of 2117. The wind is glassy – literally 3 mph from the SE – and the wave comment says excellent for experienced surfers. Because it’s a longer period groundswell, it might break a bit straight on the beach, but the glassy wind will make it look perfect. This is the morning to be out there.

Thursday afternoon the swell jumps to 7ft, but the wind goes cross at 9 mph, and it’s back to being marginal. Still, for the bigger-wave crew, that afternoon might have some sets, but the morning is the pick.

After Thursday, the swell slowly drops, but the wind stays in a cross or light cross direction for much of the following week, with the occasional slightly better window. For example, the morning of Monday the 31st has a 6ft SW swell with a 6 mph cross breeze, and Tuesday the 1st of September sees the swell build back to 8ft, but the wind is a gentle cross-shore breeze.

Later in the window, around Saturday the 5th of September, the swell drops to 4ft, but it’s a long-period 17-second S swell. The combined energy is still moderate at 1424, but the wind is a light cross-shore, so it could be fun for a log. Sunday the 6th sees a drop in quality, with choppy conditions.

So, overall, the standout is absolutely Thursday the 27th morning. Glassy conditions and a long-period groundswell at a modest 4ft. Get out there if you can. Wednesday the 26th morning is a solid backup for cleaner waves. The rest of the window is a bit of a grind with marginal conditions.

Rusty

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