Focene or Baraonda Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s be straight with you – this next 16-day stretch for the coast around Focene is a bit of a write-off if you’re chasing a proper wave. The data’s showing a real lean spell, so don’t be holding your breath for any epic sessions.

There’s a gap of several days at the start with basically nothing to get excited about. The first real chance we see is a very small bump on Thursday the 10th of September, but it’s a poor 3ft swell from the South with a short, weak period of 5 seconds. The wind is a messy 19 mph cross-shore from the South, and the combined wave energy is a pathetic 42. It’s a stormy, choppy mess. Not one for the board.

The following day, Friday the 11th, brings a slightly better wind shift early. A 4ft swell from the WSW with a 7-second period shows up, but the energy is still only moderate at 147. The morning looks clean with a light 6 mph offshore from the WSW, but the wave comment screams poor surf conditions. The swell drops off fast in the afternoon to 2ft, and the wind turns cross-onshore. It’s just not happening.

Saturday the 12th of September is the only window that might tempt a beginner out. The morning is glassy with a 3 mph NE wind, and there’s a tiny 3ft swell from the WSW. The period is a weak 6 seconds, and the energy is a very low 36. It’s clean, but barely moving. For a total beginner, it might be a paddle, but there’s no real wave to ride.

The water temperature is sitting at a very unusual 82°F, which is nearly 7°F warmer than normal for this time of year. That’s a notable anomaly, but it doesn’t help the lack of surf.

From Sunday the 13th right through to the end of the forecast on the 25th of September, it’s a desert. The waves flatline completely. The swell heights drop to 0.7ft or less, and the periods are short and weak. The combined energy falls to single digits or zero. There’s a few clean mornings with light offshore or glassy conditions, but with no swell to speak of, it’s just a flat, calm sea. Even a small pulse on the 17th of September with a 6ft onshore wind swell gets ruined by a 16 mph onshore wind and a poor rating.

The recommended break here is Focene or Baraonda, which is a fairly consistent beginner spot exposed to the SW. But with no swell, the consistency doesn’t matter. The optimum swell direction is SW, but the only real pulses we see are from the WSW and S, and they’re all too small or too messy. This is a blank run, plain and simple. For a spot that’s usually fairly consistent, this is a true dry spell. Forecasts can change, but right now, it’s looking like a good time to clean the wax off the board and wait.

Rusty.

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