Big Ben Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, this is Rusty, and I’m looking at what’s on the cards for Big Ben. Let’s get into it.

First up, the water temp is sitting pretty average for this time of year, so nothing weird going on there.

Right now, we’re in a bit of a flat spell. The first chance to get wet is on Tuesday the 15th, but it’s not gonna set your world on fire. We’ve got a 3ft east swell, period around 14 seconds, so there’s some groundswell in the water, but the wind is a messy cross-shore from the SSW at 12 mph. The energy reading is 522, which is moderate, but it’s just marginal. The jetty there might offer a bit of shelter, but it’s not looking great.

Wednesday the 16th is a little better. Still small at 3-3ft from the east, but the wind switches to a cross-offshore from the north, cleaning things right up. The energy is still in that moderate range (356-423), and the waves should be a bit more lined up. This is probably the best you’ll get in the early part of the week for a beginner-friendly session, but it’s nothing to get emotional about.

Now, here’s where it gets interesting. From Thursday the 17th, things start to ramp up fast, but it’s not all good news. That swell jumps, but the period drops to 7-8 seconds – that’s short-period, wind-driven stuff, and with the NNE wind blowing 19 mph, it’s gonna be a bumpy, messy mess. Not worth paddling out for.

Friday the 18th sees the swell building to 8ft by the morning and then swinging to the SE at 15 seconds by the afternoon. The energy hits 2747 – that’s strong. But that 19 mph cross-off wind is holding on, so it’s clean but mighty. This is starting to get into expert territory, and the beach setup might make it a bit of a handful.

Here’s the real standout, and I’m gonna say it loud: Saturday the 19th. The swell is a solid 10ft out of the southeast, with a long 13-second period. The combined energy is massive at 4081 in the morning. The wind is a cross-offshore from the NE at 16 mph, keeping it clean. But look, I have to be straight with you – this is way too big for the average punter. It’s a straight-up expert-only wave at Big Ben. If you’re not solid, stay on the sand and watch. The crowd will likely be around, but only the brave are getting out.

Sunday the 20th is still solid, with 8ft from the SSE and that groundswell energy (2601), but it’s backed off a bit. The wind stays cross-off. It’s still a big, powerful wave, but it’s getting more manageable for strong intermediates.

After that, we get a bit of a lull mid-week, with 5-7ft SSW swell and cross winds. Nothing special. But then, Tuesday the 22nd afternoon – glassy conditions. The wind drops to 3 mph, and it’s dead calm. The swell is 8ft from the SSW at a very long 14-second period. The energy is 2382. This is clean, powerful, and lined up. This is the other standout for experienced surfers. The long period will make it wall up nicely on the sandbank, but it’s still a proper wave.

The 23rd gets ugly – too big again at 15ft in the morning and then sloppy onshore. Skip it.

After that, it’s a long, quiet stretch. From the 24th of September right through to the 30th, we’re looking at knee-to-waist high stuff, mostly under 5ft, with a mix of cross and cross-off winds. The energy stays weak to moderate (under 1000). There’s a glimmer on the 24th morning with glassy conditions and a 4ft swell, but it’s small. The 30th shows a bump again with 8ft from the south and very long period, but that’s a full week and a half away, so keep an eye on it.

Bottom line: The first few days are small and average. The real juice comes this weekend (19th and 20th) and again on Tuesday the 22nd, but it’s all for the experienced crew. If you’re a beginner, you’re better off waiting for the small glassy window on the 24th morning. After that, it goes quiet for a long stretch.

Stay safe out there.

- Rusty

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