Big Ben Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s on the cards for Big Ben.

The next couple of weeks are a bit of a mixed bag, with a slow start and a real punchy finish. For the first few days, the surf is small and the conditions are pretty average, so don't get your hopes up too early. After that, we see a big jump in swell size, but the wind isn't always kind, and it gets seriously big towards the end of the first week into the second. The real standout window looks like it’s shaping up for the second Saturday, so keep that in mind.

Starting off this Saturday, the 29th of August, it’s a little on the weak side. We’ve got waves around 2ft coming from the east with a 12-second period, but the wind is either onshore or messy. The water is 82°, which is a touch warmer than normal for this time of year. The combined energy is low to moderate (118). Not really worth getting wet for.

Sunday the 30th isn't much different. Still small at 2ft from the east, but the Sunday afternoon shows a glassy window with that 12-second period east swell and a nice 196 energy reading. The waves are clean but tiny. It’s a paddle, but not a score.

Monday the 31st drops even smaller, down to 1ft, though the period stretches to 14 seconds. The energy is still moderate (187). The wind is okay, but it’s just too small to get excited about.

Now, Tuesday the 1st of September is where things perk up. The morning is glassy, and the swell jumps to 4ft from the east at 12 seconds. The combined energy is strong (406), and the wind is glassy. This is the first real chance for a clean, fun wave. The break is a beach/jetty setup, so with that east swell, it should be working. The water is still that warm 82°. It’s a beginner-friendly spot, so don’t expect barrels, but for a clean knee-to-waist high wave, it’s a good option.

The rest of the week into the weekend is a bit of a write-off. Wednesday and Thursday are small and choppy. Friday the 4th gets lumpy and messy, with the swell picking up to 8ft in the afternoon, but with a short 8-second period and strong cross-shore wind (15 mph), it’s a mess. The energy is very strong (754), but it’s just not for paddling. This is more of a kite-surfing setup than a paddle surf one.

Saturday the 5th and Sunday the 6th are the same story. The swell is big, 7ft to 8ft, but period is short (7-9 seconds), and the wind is all over the place. The energy is very strong (up to 1199), but the quality is poor. For a beginner spot, this is too big and messy.

The start of the second week, Monday the 7th and Tuesday the 8th, we see the swell really start to pump. It’s 8ft to 10ft from the east, with a 12-second period on Tuesday. The combined energy is huge (2464 to 3858). But the wind is onshore and the break is a beach/jetty, so it’s going to be a washing machine. The forecast actually says it’s too big for this break. This is expert-only, and even then, it’s going to be a battle. The water is still warm, but the conditions are heavy.

By Wednesday the 9th and Thursday the 10th, the swell is still massive, 10ft and 8ft, with a very long 14-second period. The energy is extreme (3858 to 2884). The wind is cross-onshore, so it’s big, lumpy, and powerful. This is not a beginner’s game. The long period groundswell might offer some better shape at a reef or point, but at a beach/jetty, it’s going to break straight and close out. Still, for the experts, there’s serious power.

Now, here’s the standout. Look at Saturday the 12th of September. The swell drops to a much more manageable 5ft from the east-northeast with a 10-second period, and the wind goes glassy in the afternoon. The combined energy is a strong 728. The forecast says "expect very good surf conditions". This is the one to wait for. The water is still warm, and with clean conditions, this will be the best day on offer. It’s a solid chest-high wave, clean, and with the offshore wind, it’ll be a joy. The crowd factor is "sometimes", so you might have some company, but it’s worth it.

Sunday the 13th is a step down, with the wind turning onshore again and the swell dropping to 4ft.

So, to sum it up: the first week is small and messy, with a brief clean window on Tuesday the 1st. The second week starts huge and windy, only for the experts. But the real golden ticket is Saturday the 12th of September. Mark it in the calendar.

Rusty.

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