Big Ben Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here again, looking at the same stretch of coast but in feet and miles. It’s a slow start, but the second week has some serious juice coming in.

We’re looking at Big Ben, a beach and jetty setup that’s exposed to the swell. The water is sitting at a warm 82°, which is a touch warmer than normal for this time of year – feels like a warm bath.

The first proper chance to paddle out doesn’t come until Saturday, September 12th. Before that, it’s flat or junk. Saturday morning brings a small 2ft easterly swell with a 14-second period – that’s a long period groundswell, meaning better shaped waves but longer waits between sets. The combined energy is 251 (moderate), and with a light breeze, it’s clean. Saturday afternoon bumps up to 3ft and 332 energy, still clean. It’s not epic, but it’s rideable. The caveat is that Big Ben is inconsistent, so you’ll be waiting for the sets.

Sunday and Monday are similar, with waist-high waves, but the wind turns onshore, and the quality drops. Tuesday the 15th shows a pulse of 3ft with a 14-second period and 547 to 602 energy (moderate), but the wind is cross-on, so it’s a bit lumpy. Still, it’s a chance for a beginner to get a few.

Now, the big one. Friday, September 18th is where it gets real. A massive SSE swell rolls in, starting at 4ft with an 18-second period – that’s a very long period groundswell. The combined energy jumps to 2053 (strong). By the afternoon, it’s pumping 10ft with a 16-second period and 4183 energy (very strong). This is expert territory. The wind is light and glassy, and the conditions are clean. But the swell is predicted to be too big for this break. The waves will be heavy and powerful, and with that long period, it’s going to close out on a beach/jetty setup. This is for very experienced surfers only, and honestly, this setup might be more interesting for the kite crew than paddle surfers.

Saturday and Sunday the 19th and 20th keep the 10ft swell with glassy conditions and strong energy (3846 to 4482). The period drops to 14-15 seconds but still solid. Again, too big for the average surfer.

The peak of the swell hits Monday, September 21st with a 12ft S swell at 16 seconds, and combined energy of 5189 (very strong). Tuesday the 22nd goes even bigger to 18ft and 21ft, with 13980 energy – that’s extreme. That is purely for the brave and the stupid. The wind is cross-on, making it even more chaotic.

After that, the wind turns into a nightmare. Wednesday, September 23rd brings strong winds at 25 mph from the south, combined with a dropping swell, and the conditions are messy and dangerous. By Thursday and Friday the 24th and 25th, the swell drops to 2ft and the energy is weak (57). The wind is up again, so it’s a write-off.

So, the one true standout is the Friday, September 18th to Monday, September 21st window. The swell is massive, the energy is through the roof, and the wind is light or glassy. But it’s a double-edged sword: it’s way too big for this break, and it’s only for experts. For the average surfer, the best bet is the small window on Saturday, September 12th and Tuesday, September 15th for some clean, small waves.

Rusty.

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