Big Ben Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here with a look at what’s coming our way. It’s a bit of a slow burner, but there’s a pulse later on that has me pretty keen.

We’re looking at a consistent run of small but clean surf kicking off this Friday afternoon, September 11th. The water temp is sitting at 80°, which is about 1° warmer than usual for this time of year – nothing wild, just a touch on the balmy side for an average September.

Big Ben gets things moving. Friday afternoon brings in a small 2ft easterly swell with a moderate wave energy (196). It’s not going to blow anyone’s mind, but with a cross-off breeze, it’s surfable. Saturday and Sunday, the 12th and 13th, see the swell bump up to 2ft – 3ft from the east, with the energy climbing nicely into the 300s. The standout moment is Sunday morning, September 13th, when we get glassy conditions with that 3ft east swell. That’s the pick of the first few days – clean, tidy, and perfect for a beginner or someone wanting a cruisy session. The period is a solid 13 seconds, which is a proper groundswell, giving those waves a bit of shape and push.

Mid-week gets a bit ordinary. Monday through Wednesday are a write-off with onshore and cross-shore winds chopping up the 3ft swell. By Thursday morning, September 17th, we get a bit of relief with a cross-off northerly wind cleaning up a fading 3ft east swell.

Now, here’s where it gets interesting. Friday, September 18th, we see a jump in size as a new swell arrives. By Friday afternoon, we’ve got 5ft from the southeast with a very long 15-second period. The energy is strong (1368). The wind is a clean cross-off, so the waves should be lined up nicely. This is getting into intermediate territory, but that long period will make it more forgiving at a beach/jetty setup like this. Saturday morning, September 19th, pushes up to 8ft from the southeast, still with clean cross-off wind. The energy is very strong (2451). This is expert territory now – not for the faint of heart. That long period swell (13 seconds) will be powerful.

The real standout, though, is looking further ahead. Sunday, September 20th is still solid at 7ft from the SSE, but the wind turns a bit cross. The true gem on offer is the glassy morning of Wednesday, September 23rd. We’ve got a 4ft swell from the southeast with an incredibly long 17-second period. The energy is very strong (1331). That’s a proper groundswell pulse. With a light cross breeze, the conditions will be pristine. The only caveat is that a period that long can make a beach break a bit straight, so the best waves will be where the sandbanks are working. This is a promising, long-range call.

After that, things get messy. Thursday, September 24th, is a write-off with 25 mph cross-shore winds and a huge 10ft swell. Friday, September 25th, the swell is too big for this break, reaching 13ft. And Saturday, September 26th, we see a massive 43ft swell – that’s a no-go for surfing. That kind of energy (99323) would be more suited to kite gear than a paddle board.

So, bottom line: the first weekend has some glassy, fun small waves. The main event looks like the long-period groundswell on the 23rd, which could be the best of the run if the banks hold. Keep an eye on it.

Rusty.

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