Big Ben Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, this is Rusty comin' at ya with a look at what's on the menu for the next couple of weeks. Gotta be straight with you from the jump – this one's a bit of a mixed bag, and there's a lot of waiting involved.

We're looking at Big Ben (beach/jetty) for the whole forecast. The first few days are a write-off, honestly. We got a run of poor surf from the 5th to the 6th with cross-shore winds, lumpy chop, and swell that's just not cooperating. It’s a real “stay on the couch” kind of start.

From the 7th of September, things get interesting, but not for the faint of heart. A big swell rolls in, hittin' 15 ft on Monday morning with a groundswell period of 9 seconds from the SSE. The energy is massive (4103). The afternoon cleans up with a solid 15 ft S swell and a better 11-second period, and the wind goes offshore. But here's the kicker – the forecast says it's predicted to be too big for this break. The combined energy hits 5391. That's a pulsing, powerful ocean. For a beach/jetty, this is a beast for experts only, and even then, it's a serious call. Tuesday the 8th keeps the size up around 10 ft (SSE, 10 sec, 1861 energy) but with cross-shore wind. It's still well over 8 ft, so it's expert territory, though the wind is light.

The week of the 8th onwards brings a slow fade-out. The 10th of September Thursday afternoon is the best of a pretty average bunch. We get a clean 5 ft S swell with a 9-second period and offshore winds from the NNW. The wave energy is moderate (543) and the conditions are clean. It's not a standout, but it's the closest we get to a decent paddle for a couple of days.

Then we hit a long, flat gap. From the 11th of September right through to the 20th, the swell drops off a cliff. You're lookin' at small, weak waves under 3 ft, mixed with periods of glassy conditions but no real power. The 13th of September Sunday afternoon has a glassy 6 ft E swell, but the period is only 8 seconds, so it's a bit weak and crumbly. The energy is moderate (704). It's a session for the longboard, not a performance board.

The real standout? I'd have to point to the 10th of September Thursday afternoon. It’s the only time in the whole run where you get a clean, offshore window with a surfable size. It's a 5 ft South swell, offshore from the NNW, and the conditions are clean. That's your window. For the rest, it's a waiting game. The forecast suggests this area tends to have these blank runs, so don't be too surprised.

This is Rusty, signing off.

Read more