Tronoen Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, mate, Rusty here. Let’s break down what’s coming for Tronoen.

Right, straight off the bat, we’ve got a bit of surf on the way, but you’ve got to pick your moments. The water temp is sitting about average for the time of year at Tronoen, so nothing unusual there. The first true glimmer of clean waves isn’t until Monday, September 14th. The weekend before is pretty average.

Sunday, September 13th is a write-off. We’ve got a 5 ft cross-on swell from the WNW, but the whole shebang is "marginal surf forecast" with a moderate energy reading (631). Not worth getting wet for.

Monday, September 14th is where we can have a crack. The morning session is the standout. It’s glassy with an offshore ESE breeze at only 3 mph, and a clean 3 ft swell from the west. The energy is moderate (237). It’s small but clean and perfect for a longboard. Afternoon turns cross-on and messy, so get it early.

Tuesday, September 15th is a no-go. The swell drops to 2 ft and the wind is howling cross-on at 12 mph, making it choppy. The afternoon gets even uglier with 22 mph cross-winds. Don’t bother.

Wednesday, September 16th has a bigger 7 ft swell from the WNW with a short 9-second period, but it’s cross-shore and borderline for safety. That’s heavy energy (598) but messy. Only for the keen lads on a big board if you want to fight the chop.

Thursday, September 17th sees clean onshore wind at 5 ft but the reports say "poor surf conditions" with onshore and cross-shore winds. Skip it.

Friday, September 18th is a tease. We’ve got a solid 7 ft to 8 ft swell from the WNW with a *very long* 14-second period (groundswell). The combined energy is strong (2052), but unfortunately, it’s wrapped in cross-onshore winds. This size with that period would be epic at a point or reef, but at a beach break, you’ll be dealing with a straight wall and onshore chop. Not the one.

Saturday, September 19th is blown out with onshore winds at 19 mph. Hard pass.

Now, here’s the one to mark on the calendar. Sunday, September 20th is promising. The morning shows a 8 ft swell from the WNW with a very long 14-second period. The wind is cross-offshore from the NNE at 12 mph, and the water is clean. That’s a big, powerful swell (2265 energy). This is solid, expert-only territory at 8 ft. The long period will mean long waits between sets, but when they come, they’ll be heavy. The swell direction (WNW) is actually the optimum angle for Tronoen, so shape should be decent despite the size.

Monday, September 21st is the absolute gem. Morning session: 6 ft from the WNW, 14-second period, and it’s *offshore* from the ENE at only 9 mph. The water is described as "gentle offshore and clean". This is a top-tier window for experienced surfers. The energy is strong (1357). You’ll have the place to yourself if the crowds only show "sometimes". This is the one to call in sick for.

Tuesday, September 22nd drops to a cleaner 4 ft with a long 12-second period and cross-offshore ESE wind. It’s small but clean, a good fallback if you missed Monday.

From Wednesday, September 23rd onwards, the swell fades fast. Morning on the 23rd is worth a look with clean 3 ft, but after that, it’s a dry spell. From the 24th to the 28th, the combined energy drops to double digits (65 down to 7), and you’re looking at tiny crumble (2 ft down to 0.7 ft). That’s a solid 5-day gap with nothing worth chasing unless you’re on a foamie.

So, to sum it up: Monday, September 21st (morning) is your best bet for quality. Sunday, September 20th (morning) is the second best, though bigger and only for the brave. Get in before the 23rd, because after that, the taps are turned off for nearly a week.

Stay safe, keep your stick in the water.
Rusty.

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