Teahupo’o Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Right. Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s coming down the line for one of the most famous waves on the planet.

The next 16 days start off a bit slow and messy for Teahupo’o. The good news is, there’s a solid pulse of strong, long-period SW groundswell building in the second week, and it’s looking like it could be something special. The early part of the outlook is a write-off, with a lot of marginal conditions and poor surf quality. We’re talking a solid 4 days of nothing much worth paddling out for, from Saturday the 7th through to Tuesday the 10th. You’d be better off checking the forecast again later.

The first real sign of life comes on Saturday morning, September 5th. We’ve got a 6.9 ft SSW swell with a 15-second period, but the wind is a fresh 30 km/h cross-off from the ENE. The combined energy is a solid 1927 (moderate to strong), but the wave comment says “marginal surf forecast or questionable tide conditions.” It’s clean, but not quite firing. That afternoon, the swell drops slightly to 6.6 ft, with a 14-second period and 25 km/h cross-off wind. Still clean, but the score is low. Sunday the 6th is similar, with 4.9 ft SSW swell, but the wind is 25 km/h cross-off in the morning and 15 km/h in the afternoon. The energy is dropping into the 800s (moderate). It’s clean, but nothing to write home about.

Then things get ugly. From Monday the 7th through to Tuesday the 10th, the wind swings SE and goes cross or cross-on, with speeds up to 30 km/h. The swell drops to 3.3 ft – 4.9 ft, and the period is all over the place, including a short, weak 7-second period on Tuesday morning. The combined energy falls into the 500s and 600s (weak to moderate), and the wave comments are all “poor surf conditions.” This is a full four-day stretch of chop and crud. Not worth it.

The pattern starts to lift again from Wednesday the 11th. The wind goes back to a cross-off from the E, and the swell climbs. On Wednesday morning, we’ve got 3.9 ft SW swell at 17 seconds, with 25 km/h cross-off wind. The energy is 1143 (moderate). It’s clean, but the wave comment is still “poor surf conditions.” Thursday the 12th is a mixed bag, with a brief pulse of 4.6 ft ESE swell on the morning with a very short 8-second period and fresh 30 km/h cross-off winds. The energy is only 470 (weak). That afternoon, a 1.6 ft SW swell with a 22-second period rolls in, but that’s tiny. The real pick-up starts on Saturday the 14th.

Now, pay attention. The standout window is Monday the 15th and Tuesday the 16th of September. This is what you’ve been waiting for.

On Monday the 15th, we’ve got a 5.9 ft SW swell with a 16-second period, light 10 km/h cross-off winds from the E, and the combined energy is a meaty 2491 (strong). The wave comment says “excellent surf conditions for experienced surfers.” That’s the call. The water temp is 78.4°, which is bang on average for this time of year, so no need to worry about a wetsuit. Teahupo’o (Tahiti) is a reef pass that’s very consistent, exposed to the SW – which is the optimum direction – and when it’s this clean with that much energy, it’s a world-class, heavy, barreling wave. It’s for experts only, and it will be at its absolute best. Crowds are “often” there, so expect a few chargers out, but that’s par for the course. The 5.9 ft height is serious, but it’s the 16-second period and the cross-off wind that will make it clean and lined up.

Tuesday the 16th is even bigger, but the wind is a little trickier. The morning shows a 9.8 ft SW swell (16-second period) with a light 10 km/h cross from the ESE. The energy is a massive 4607 (very strong). That is a lot of water moving. The wave comment says “marginal surf forecast or questionable tide conditions,” but the size and power are undeniable. The wind is only a light breeze, so it will be clean, but the cross direction might make it a bit more challenging. This is likely only for the very experienced. It’s a monster. The afternoon peaks at 9.8 ft again, with a 16-second period and a gentle 15 km/h cross breeze. Energy is still 3892 (very strong). If you’re a local and know the

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