Rainbow Rocks Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let's suss out what's coming our way for Rainbow Rocks. It's a mixed bag, so don't expect a constant run of pumping surf. There's a lot of marginal stuff happening, but if you’re patient, there is a window of proper sized swell to close out the forecast.

We start with very small conditions. Saturday, August 22nd, we've got tiny 2 ft swell from the SSW with a 13-second period. The water temp is sitting at a normal 59°, about average for this time of year. The wind is light cross-onshore, so it's pretty average. The combined energy is only moderate (232). It’s a paddle-around kind of day, not much to write home about.

Sunday the 23rd offers a bit more size but the wind isn't doing us any favors. The morning is a mess with a moderate cross-shore making for a cross-chop on a 4 ft NW windswell with a short 7-second period. The afternoon cleans up with a fresh cross-offshore breeze, but that 8 ft NW swell is also short period, and at that size, it's really only for the experienced crew. The energy jumps up (909), but the quality is suspect.

Monday the 24th sees the swell drop back to 2 ft. It's coming from the SW with a very long 18-second period, and we get light offshore winds. The energy is moderate (568). That long period might make for some clean, lined-up waves, but it's small. Good for a longboard or a groveler.

From Tuesday the 25th through Thursday the 27th, we're in a real slump. Swell sits around 2 ft to 3 ft, mostly from the SW, with cross-shore or cross-onshore winds. It’s choppy, weak, and not worth getting wet for. A real quiet spell. The energy dips into the low 300s.

Friday the 28th brings a bit of a spike in size with a 4 ft to 7 ft NW windswell, but the period is short (6-8 seconds). The morning is clean with a light cross-shore breeze, but it’s still messy. The afternoon gets bigger but the period drops even more. It’s a bit of a close-out machine for a beach and reef setup like Rainbow Rocks.

Then we hit the first of our standout windows. Saturday, August 29th, the swell drops a bit to 2 ft-3 ft, but it’s a solid SSW groundswell with a 18-second period. The wind is a clean cross-offshore. The combined energy is very strong in the afternoon (1262). This is where the long period could really help shape up those waves, especially if you can find a peak that works with that SSW direction. It stays clean through Sunday the 30th, with moderate energy (636-866). A nice, clean, albeit not huge, long period groundswell.

After a bit of a wind-affected Monday (August 31st), we get back into the bigger stuff. Saturday, September 5th, is the real standout. We’re looking at a 7 ft to 13 ft NW swell, with a moderate 8-second period. The wind is a clean cross-offshore. The wave energy is enormous, hitting 2335 in the afternoon. This is big, powerful, and only for expert surfers. That 13 ft is no joke. The direction is WSW, which is the optimum for Rainbow Rocks, so it should wrap in nicely. If you're a charger, this is the day.

Sunday, September 6th, keeps the power going with 7 ft to 8 ft swell from the NW, a longer 10-11 second period, and clean cross-offshore winds. The energy remains very strong (1211-1604). This is still a big, clean swell, slightly smaller than Saturday but still a proper session for those with the skills.

So here’s the takeaway. The next week is mostly small and weak. The first real highlight is Saturday, August 29th, for clean, long-period groundswell. But the absolute best on offer for the experts is the run from Saturday, September 5th, through Sunday, September 6th. That's your power window. Keep an eye on it; long-range forecasts can change, but it looks prime.

Stay salty,
Rusty

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