Rainbow Rocks Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s coming our way.

First off, the water temp is sitting at about 55°F, which is a touch below average for the time of year – about 1°F cooler than normal, so it’s a little nippy but nothing shocking. The opening week is pretty lackluster, not gonna lie. From Friday the 10th right through to Tuesday the 14th, it’s all cross-shore winds, and the wave quality is just not there – messy, choppy, and the energy is only moderate (760 down to 450 in the combined energy readings). You’ll see some waist-high stuff on Sunday and Monday (5ft to 6ft from the NW), but with a short period around 6 to 9 seconds and winds not cleaning it up, it’s a write-off for a decent paddle. It’s gonna be a long, quiet stretch with no real standout until the middle of the month.

Now, let’s talk about Wednesday the 15th. That’s when things start waking up. Wednesday morning sees 6ft NW swell with a cross-offshore breeze from the NW at 12 mph, and the energy is building into a moderate range (629). It’s clean. By Wednesday afternoon, it gets bigger and better: 10ft from the NW, period a touch short at 7 seconds, but the wind is cross-offshore from the NNW at 19 mph, and the combined energy rockets up to 1171 – that’s strong wave energy. This is a solid offering, but at 10ft, it’s pushing into expert territory. If you’ve got the skill and a big board, Rainbow Rocks will have some punchy, lined-up waves, but that short period means it’ll be a bit dumpy on the sand – better for the reef sections if you know where to sit.

Thursday the 16th keeps it going. Morning has 7ft NW swell, period 8 seconds, cross-offshore winds from the NNW at 19 mph, energy at 1055 – strong and clean. Thursday afternoon gets even heavier: 10ft NW swell again, but with a stronger 28 mph NNW wind (still cross-offshore) and energy hitting 1533, which is very strong. That’s big, powerful, and for experts only. The wind is howling, but the fact it’s cross-offshore means the faces will be scrubbed clean – just be ready for a serious paddle.

After that, the swell drops back. Friday the 17th sees smaller 3ft WNW groundswell with a long 17-second period, but the wind goes cross-shore, so it’s choppy. The energy is still strong at 953, but the quality isn’t there. Saturday the 18th morning offers similar size and period (3ft, 16 seconds) but this time with cross-offshore winds from the NW at 12 mph, and energy at 1069 – the combo of long-period groundswell and clean wind makes for some beautiful, lined-up waves at the reef and point sections. This is a real standout for the second week – not huge, but glassy and smooth. Saturday afternoon is even better: 3ft from the SW with a long 18-second period, light cross-offshore breeze from the NNW at 6 mph, and energy at 972. That’s very clean, with those long-period lines peeling nicely. If you want a relaxed, cruisy session, that’s your window.

Sunday the 19th onwards into the next week sees a return to moderate NW swell (5ft to 8ft) with periods in the 7 to 8 second range. Winds are mostly cross-offshore or cross-shore, and energy stays moderate to strong (663 to 1278). The best of that stretch looks like Monday the 20th morning: 7ft NW swell, period 8 seconds, cross-offshore NW wind at 12 mph, energy at 1041 – strong, clean, and punchy. It’s a solid session for intermediate to advanced surfers.

Overall, the standout is Wednesday the 15th afternoon for the bigger, more powerful stuff (expert only), and Saturday the 18th for that silky, long-period groundswell with light winds – that’s the one for the connoisseur. The rest is hit and miss, but there are waves on offer.

Rusty.

Read more