Piha-The Bar Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s get into it for Piha-The-Bar. We’ve got a proper beast of a forecast coming our way, but the timing is everything. Don’t even think about paddling out for the first few days – it’s a write-off.

Right now, through the end of August and into the start of September, it’s ugly. We’re staring down a massive, angry sea. Sunday the 30th is a washout with a 10-foot SW swell that’s got a short, weak 8-second period and a howling 22 mph cross-wind. The water temp is sitting at 57°F, which is bang on average for this time of year, so no surprises there. The wave energy is up at a massive 2101, but with that wind, it’s just a lumpy, choppy mess. Monday the 31st is even worse – the swell jumps to 15 feet and the wind goes cross-onshore, making it completely unsurfable. The energy is off the charts (6235 to 8645), but it’s all just brutal, moving water.

The first real chance of anything comes on Tuesday the 1st of September. The swell is a solid 15 feet to 16 feet from the SW, with a very long 14-second period. The wind is a cleaner cross-shore, 19 mph to 22 mph. The model says it’s “too big for this break,” and honestly, for anyone but the absolute top-tier crew, it is. At over 8 feet, this is expert-only territory. The energy is pumping at 9315. It’s a raw, powerful groundswell that will be breaking straight and heavy on the beach. The wind and tide are favorable, but you’d better be on your game.

The pattern stays messy through the rest of the first week and into the second. Wednesday the 2nd and Thursday the 3rd are a saga of onshore winds and choppy conditions. Friday the 4th is a write-off, but Saturday the 5th is where we get a little glimmer. The swell is still a meaty 12 feet to 13 feet from the WSW with a 14-15 second period, and the wind drops right out to a light 6 mph cross-onshore. The combined energy is massive (5413 to 7446). It’s still marginal due to the tide, but those light winds mean it’ll be a lot cleaner, with only small wind ripples. It’s the best of the first ten days, but still not a classic.

Then we get a proper storm for the 6th and 7th of September. Sunday the 6th sees a 31 mph near gale ripping onshore, and Monday the 7th is a strong cross-onshore mess with 15 feet of swell and energy peaking at 10351. This is kite-surfing weather, not paddle surfing. The rest of the second week continues that pattern of strong wind and big, unruly swells.

The standout, the one you’ve been waiting for, is the very end of the run. Monday the 14th of September. The morning session is looking good, but the afternoon is the real deal. The swell is 12 feet from the WSW with a fantastic 16-second period, and the wind is a gentle 9 mph cross-offshore. The model is calling it “exceptional surf conditions for expert surfers.” The energy is an incredible 8031. This is a clean, powerful groundswell that will be holding up on the bar. The wind will be clean, the waves will have shape, and the longer gaps between sets will make the paddle out manageable. It’s heavy, expert-only stuff at over 8 feet, but for those who can handle it, this is the session to circle. The 14th September afternoon is the best on offer, by a long shot. Crowds are sometimes an issue at Piha, so be prepared for a few locals out.

Rusty.

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