Piha-The Bar Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Right then, folks. Rusty here, checkin’ in with the outlook for our local stretch.

We’ve got a bit of a mixed bag coming our way over the next sixteen days, but there are definitely some windows where it’ll be worth paddling out. The pattern starts off with some solid, powerful groundswell, but the wind is gonna be a pain early on. We’ll have a few days of clean conditions, then a big, raw swell rolls in that’ll only be for the brave. The end of the run looks to clean right up, but it’ll be smaller.

First up, we’re looking at a standout spot. Piha-The-Bar is an advanced break, and it’s fairly consistent, so it takes a bit of juice to get it going. It’s exposed to the SW, which is exactly where our first swell is coming from. The water temp is sitting at 57°F, which is about average for this time of year, so nothing to worry about there.

The best call of the whole outlook is Tuesday the 18th, in the morning. We’ve got some clouds overhead, but the wind is a light cross-off at 9 mph, keeping things clean. You’re looking at a solid 7ft SW groundswell with a long 14-second period. The combined energy is pumping at 1949 – that’s strong, powerful stuff. This is excellent surf for anyone who knows what they’re doing. The bar is a heavy wave, so this is not one for the beginners. The afternoon sees the wind pick up to 19 mph, making it a tougher session, and the quality drops off.

Wednesday the 19th keeps the size up, around 6ft to 7ft from the SW, but the wind stays fresh at 12-19 mph, so it’ll be lumpy and tricky.

Then we get a proper window on Thursday the 20th. Both the morning and afternoon sessions are looking sweet. The wind drops right back to a light 6 mph breeze, coming out of the S and then SSW. The swell holds at a solid 7ft to 7ft, and the period is a long 14 seconds. This is clean, powerful surf with a combined energy in the 1500-2000 range. Another top pick for the experienced crew. The morning is clear, the afternoon has a bit more sun.

Friday the 21st sees the wind swing onshore, and while there’s still some swell, it starts to get chopped up. The quality goes out the window from Saturday the 22nd through Sunday the 23rd – the wind howls onshore, and it turns into a mess.

Now, hold on to your boards for Monday the 24th and Tuesday the 25th. A massive, raw swell rolls in. We’re talking 12ft on Monday morning, dropping to 10ft on Tuesday, all from the WSW. The period is a very long 15-16 seconds, so there is a heap of energy in the water – the combined energy on Monday morning is a massive 7149. However, the wind is a persistent cross-onshore at 9-12 mph. This is a setup that looks more interesting for kite surfing than paddle surfing. The wave quality will be blown out and choppy but incredibly powerful. Only absolute experts on a big board could handle this, and even then, it’s going to be a battle. Not recommended for a fun day out.

The swell settles back to around 7ft by Wednesday the 26th, but the wind stays tricky through the end of the month. We get some rain and thunderstorms around the 27th and 28th, with the wind getting nasty, especially Friday afternoon with 22 mph cross-onshore winds and lumpy surf.

Finally, the last weekend of the run into the first of September cleans up nicely. On Sunday the 30th of August and Monday the 31st, the wind goes offshore from the SE and then glassy from the E and SW. The swell drops right down to 3ft to 3ft, but it’s a clean, long-period groundswell. The combined energy is weak, in the 400-500 range. But the conditions will be perfect for a smaller board. The Monday afternoon session is dead glassy with no wind at all and a combined energy of 523 – this will be a very good, fun session on the smaller sets.

There’s a bump of new swell around the 1st of September from the NW, but it’s a shorter period (9 seconds) and the wind is cross-shore, so it won’t be as clean.

So, to sum it up: if you’re an experienced surfer, the absolute standout is Tuesday morning the 18th and Thursday the 20th. The second week’s big swell on the 24th and 25th is just too raw and windy for a good paddle. The very end of the run, the 30th and 31st, offers a small but clean and glassy alternative for a relaxing session.

Rusty.

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