Piha-The Bar Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Right then, grab a coffee. Rusty here, looking at the Piha-The-Bar forecast.

Right off the bat, we’ve got a classic West Coast set-up. The water’s sitting at 57°F, which is a touch cooler than usual for this time of year, but nothing you haven’t felt before. The forecast has plenty of action, but you’ve gotta pick your windows.

We start Monday, the 10th of August, with some backed-off swell. The Bar is seeing a 4ft to 5ft WSW groundswell with a very long 16-second period, but the wind is coming from the wrong side. It’s a cross-offshore in the afternoon, but mainly cross, which leaves a bit of a bump on the face. It’s surfable, but not the good stuff yet.

Tuesday the 11th is where it starts to get interesting. Morning glass-off conditions with an ENE breeze at just 3 mph. The swell is a solid 4ft from the WSW with a 14-second period, and the energy is moderate (872 in the morning, 885 in the afternoon). This is clean, lined-up surf. Probably the best call for anyone who wants a nice session without the crowd stress.

Wednesday the 12th sees the NE wind pick up strong, in the 12 to 15 mph range, and the swell drops to 3ft. The period is long (18 seconds in the morning), but the chop will make it a frustrating paddle. The energy drops off significantly.

Thursday the 13th should be a write-off with rain and 12 mph NE winds. The swell is there, but it’s messy.
Friday the 14th pulls a bit of a miracle. The swell jumps to 6ft in the morning and 7ft in the afternoon from the WSW, period 16 seconds. More importantly, the wind goes ENE, 9-12 mph, and it sits cross-offshore. This is clean for the Bar. The energy is strong (1936 and 1948). For experienced surfers, this is the standout of the week.

Saturday the 15th brings the biggest push. Morning is a clean 6ft from the WSW with a 17-second period (energy 2496). Light southerly wind, cross-offshore. This is top-shelf for the crew that knows what they’re doing. By the afternoon, the swell hits 8ft with a massive 18-second period. The energy jumps to 4968. But the wind swings back to a cross-shore from the SW, and we’ve got light rain. That 8ft is a big wave for this spot; it’s for experts only.

Sunday the 16th is all about power. We’re looking at 12ft surging in from the SW with, again, a very long period (17 seconds). The energy is a massive 7194. However, the wind is howling from the SSW at 19 mph. It’s technically cross-offshore, but at that speed, it’s a battle. The sets will be huge and clean, but you’ll be fighting for your life. Definitely a day to watch first, or take a big breath and go.

After that, the swell stays solid through the 18th and into the 19th. Wednesday the 19th needs a mention. The morning is absolute glass—zero wind, completely flat sea state. The swell is a nice 5ft from the WSW, period 13 seconds, and the energy is still strong (1345). This is a beautiful, clean winter’s day.

For the second week, from the 20th of August, the swell sticks around but the winds get stronger from the east. The 20th and 21st offer some clean windows with offshore breezes, but by the 22nd on, the E wind hits 15-21 mph, and the surf drops off. It gets ugly and blown out, with the energy falling below 1000. The 23rd and 24th are pretty much a write-off with strong winds and short-period, weak wave energy. The 25th looks promising again, with a 6ft to 6ft push, but the easterly wind will still be strong enough to chop it up.

To sum it up: The best surf of this run is Friday the 14th for the clean, solid size and Tuesday the 11th for the clean, glassy, manageable conditions. If you’re an expert, Saturday the 15th morning is your call. There’s about a 3-day lull of poor quality from the 22nd to 24th.

Stay wet.

- Rusty

Read more