Nungas Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let's have a look at what's on the menu for Nungas.

We’ve got a solid run of groundswell setting in right away, and it’s sticking around for a good long while. The water’s sitting at 80°, which is bang on average for this time of year – no surprises there.

The action kicks off Tuesday, September 8th. We’re looking at a 6ft SSW groundswell with a 13-second period. The combined energy is pumping hard at 2288 (moderate to strong). Winds are a light cross-off, so the lineup is going to be clean. This is proper, powerful stuff though – with swell over 5ft, it’s getting a bit much for beginners, and by Wednesday the 9th, we’re pushing 8ft. That’s expert territory only. The swell direction is a solid SSW, which is smack bang in the optimum zone for this reef and point setup. It’s a fairly consistent break, so you can expect plenty of waves, but I’d be wary of the long period – these 15-18 second lines will be throwing a lot of energy, and they’ll be at their best wrapping around the point rather than hitting the beach sections. Crowds are a possibility here, so keep your eyes open.

The standouts are definitely Wednesday the 9th and Thursday the 10th. Wednesday morning has 8ft of SSW swell, period 16 seconds, and light cross-off winds. The combined energy is a massive 3504 (strong). Thursday isn’t far behind with 6-7ft, still a long 15-17 second period, and those same clean cross-off conditions. This is the best of the first week, pure and simple.

The swell settles down a touch over the weekend, but it stays in the 5ft to 6ft range with long periods, staying clean through the mornings. Saturday afternoon the wind picks up to a moderate breeze, which still holds cross-off but the quality dips a little. Sunday the 13th afternoon looks to pick back up nicely.

The second week keeps the faith. The swell dips to 5ft on the 19th, but then it builds again. The real highlight is Tuesday the 22nd of September. We’ve got a 4ft swell in the morning, but the period is a massive 21 seconds – that’s very long-period groundswell. The combined energy is 2942 (strong) despite the modest height. That afternoon jumps to 7ft at 17 seconds. This is a classic scenario where the long period will make the waves incredibly well-shaped and powerful at the point, but the beach breaks might be fat and straight. If you’re a confident surfer, the 22nd is the one to circle on the calendar. The 23rd keeps that energy high with a 7ft SSW swell.

Overall, there’s barely a gap in the action. We’ve got quality surf for the whole sixteen days, with the biggest and best sets coming in the first few days and again around the 22nd. Stay safe out there, and don’t be a hero if the 8ft sets catch you off guard.

Rusty.

Read more