Le Porge Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let's have a look at what's cooking for Le Porge over the next couple of weeks.

Right off the bat, I gotta be straight with you – the first week is a tough one. We've got a real dry spell for any decent surf. From Monday the 24th right through until the end of the month, it's pretty grim. Most days are a write-off, with the wind all over the shop and the swell just not cooperating. The water is a balmy 77°, which is a solid 6° warmer than usual for this time of year – that's way out of the ordinary, feels more like a tropical swim than an Atlantic session.

We finally get a little glimmer on Wednesday the 26th. The morning has a nice offshore wind from the East, making it clean, but the swell is a tiny 2ft at 6 seconds. It's surfable, but very ordinary. The afternoon goes glassy with a light SSW breeze, but again, it's just small stuff. The combined energy is weak (73), so you're not getting much push.

The next real chance doesn't come until Tuesday the 1st of September. That morning is the standout of the first half. The wind is a clean cross-off from the NE, and we've got a 5ft swell from the WNW with a 10-second period. The combined energy is solid (425), and it's looking like the best conditions we've seen. It's a solid option for a beginner-friendly wave, but keep in mind it's exposed to the West swell, so it'll be picking up plenty of energy.

After that, we get a few more days of messy onshore winds until Friday the 4th of September. That morning is glassy – dead calm, no wind at all. The swell is a tiny 2ft from the WNW at 9 seconds, so it's clean but small. The energy is low (65), so don't expect much push.

Now, hold onto your boards, because the tail end of the forecast is where it gets interesting. On Saturday the 5th of September, we see a building swell. The morning has a 5ft WNW groundswell with a 12-second period, and the combined energy is strong (579). The wind is a light cross-on, which isn't perfect, but that long period means the sets will have some real grunt. It's a beach break, so a long period swell like this can make the waves a bit straight and tricky, but the energy is there.

But the real monster is Monday the 7th of September. We're looking at a 6ft swell from the West, but the period is a massive 21 seconds. That's a very long period groundswell. The combined energy is off the charts at 3,589. That is a serious amount of water moving around. The wind is onshore in the morning, but the afternoon gets a bit better with a cross-on from the SSW. However, the swell is predicted to be too big for this break – 10ft in the afternoon with 5,755 combined energy. That's for experts only, and even then, it's questionable if it'll be any good here. A swell that size and that long will be breaking way too straight for a beach break like Le Porge. It's more of a kite-surfing kind of setup at that point.

So, to wrap it up: the first week is a write-off. Your best bet is Tuesday the 1st of September for a clean, fun session. The big show on the 7th is for gawking at, not paddling out at unless you're a real pro and even then, it's a gamble. The forecast is less certain that far out, but it's something to keep an eye on.

Rusty.

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