Le Porge Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s take a trip to the coast and see what the next couple of weeks have in store for us at Le Porge.

First off, the water is sitting at a balmy 77°F, which is a massive 38°F warmer than usual for this time of year. That’s very unusual and feels more like a summer bath than the Atlantic.

Right now, and for the first few days, it’s looking pretty grim. We’ve got a bit of swell around, but the wind is either onshore or cross-shore, messing up any chance of good waves. The energy is weak, sitting between 19 and 86 for the first couple of days, and it's just not worth paddling out for the poor conditions on offer.

Things show a glimmer of hope on the morning of Wednesday, 26 August. The wind swings offshore from the East with a light breeze, and although the swell is only 2 ft from the West with a short period of 7 seconds, it’s clean. The energy bumps up to 59, but it’s still very ordinary – a small window for a longboard or a funboard if you’re desperate.

The pattern continues for the rest of August and into early September. We see a few mornings with offshore or glassy winds, like Thursday, 27 August (offshore, small 2 ft West swell, 69 energy), and Wednesday, 2 September (glassy, 3 ft WNW swell, period 8 seconds, 103 energy). But these are fleeting, and the afternoons get trashed by onshore winds or lumpy conditions.

Towards the end of the first week of September, the wind gets nasty. We’ve got strong breezes and even a near gale forecast for the 4th and 5th of September, with strong onshore winds and big, lumpy, messy surf. The swell gets big – over 8 ft at times – but it’s only for experts and completely blown out. The energy readings spike into the thousands, but the quality is poor.

Now, here’s where it gets interesting. The real standout window is not for over a week away.

Monday, 7 September - The morning is looking like the pick of the entire forecast. We’ve got a glassy sea with an offshore breeze from the SSE (basically calm). The swell is a solid 4 ft coming from the West with a very long period of 16 seconds (groundswell). That’s a classic long-period groundswell. The energy is pumping at 1622, which is very strong. This is groundswell, so at a beach break like Le Porge, it might be a bit fat and straight, but with glassy conditions, it’ll be clean and have plenty of punch. This is prime for experienced surfers, and the break is fairly consistent.

The next morning, Tuesday, 8 September, is also a strong contender. The early session has glassy conditions with a light breeze, and a 5 ft WNW groundswell running with a 13-second period and energy reading of 829. That’s another excellent, clean looking morning with powerful, lined-up waves.

These two mornings are the true standouts. For the rest of the time, it’s a lot of waiting for clean windows that get smashed by the afternoon wind.

Rusty

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