Black Rocks Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, listen up, surfers. Rusty here. It’s been a bit of a flat, messy stretch lately, but we’ve got a run of surf coming in the second half of the 16-day window that’s worth keeping an eye on. First thing, though, we’ve got a gap. There’s nothing really worth paddling out for from Monday, August 3rd, right through to the end of the first week. It’s not you, it’s the ocean – just a dead run of small, cross-shore junk with nothing to get excited about. That’s about a week with no real recommendations.

The first real action starts to flicker around Monday, August 10th, but it’s still marginal. The stand-out window is the weekend of Saturday, August 15th, and into the following week. That’s where the real energy shows up.

Let’s talk about the main event. The only spot that’s been highlighted for us is Black Rocks, a reef break that’s intermediate territory and pretty exposed to the south-west. It’s an inconsistent little wave, so when it turns on, it’s a treat – but it also means you might be sharing it with the few who know. The water temp is sitting at a nice 77°F, which is a touch warmer than normal for this time of year, so you won’t need a thick suit.

The first proper pulse of energy comes through on Saturday, August 15th. The swell direction is from the S and SSW, with a period that hits 20 seconds on the afternoon – that’s proper, long-period groundswell energy. The combined energy shoots up to 3552 (strong wave energy), and we’re looking at waves around 6 ft to 6 ft. Now, that 6 ft mark is getting into the zone where it’s a bit much for beginners. For the rest of you, it’s a solid, powerful wave, but that long period can make it break a bit straight on a beach break – here at Black Rocks, a reef, it should be fine. The wind is cross-shore and moderate, which is a bit of a bummer, so it’s not going to be super clean. It’s a bit lumpy, but there’s real grunt in the water.

Then, Sunday, August 16th gets serious. The swell picks up to 8 ft from the SSW, with a combined energy of 4403 (very strong wave energy). That is big, and it’s only for the experts. The period is 18 seconds, so it’s still a long, powerful groundswell. The wind is cross-onshore and fresh, blasting it at 19 mph, so the surface is going to be lumpy and messy. This is less about pretty waves and more about heavy, challenging conditions. If you’re not solid on a big board, stay on the beach.

Looking into Monday, August 17th, the swell drops back to 7 ft and 6 ft, still with that strong energy (2054 and 1630). The wind eases a touch but stays cross-shore, keeping things a bit lumpy. It’s still chunky, but the period drops to 15-16 seconds, so it’s a bit more manageable. This is the best of the big stuff for the intermediate crew who can handle it.

Finally, Tuesday, August 18th brings a bit of relief. The swell drops to 4 ft to 5 ft from the SW and SSW, with a period of 14 seconds. The combined energy is still moderate (960-973), but the wind finally swings cross-offshore from the east at 9 to 12 mph. That’s the cleanest it’s been all week. The waves are smaller, but they’ll be glassy and lined up. This is the one for the everyday surfer looking for a fun, clean session without the washing machine.

So, to wrap it up: the first week is a write-off. The weekend of the 15th and 16th is for the big-wave hunters, but it’s messy. The real standout for clean, fun waves is Tuesday, August 18th. Keep your eyes peeled on the forecast, because this long-range stuff can shift, but it’s looking promising.

Rusty.

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