Big Lefts Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, this is Rusty, and I’m looking at what’s on offer for the next couple of weeks. Only one spot in the frame, and it’s a proper reef setup: Big Lefts. It’s an advanced wave, pretty consistent, and it’s got that exposed feel for the SSE swell. The water temp is sitting about 80°, which is pretty normal for this time of year, nothing weird going on there.

First up, we’ve got a bit of a slow start. Tuesday the 21st is a write-off – tiny swell, 3ft from the S, with a long 14-second period, and a moderate breeze blowing cross-off. The energy’s there (537), but it’s just not doing much. Wednesday the 22nd to Friday the 24th is a real lull. Swell drops to 2ft–2ft, super long period (20–24 seconds), but the wind is a fresh cross-off, and there’s just no push. The combined energy dips into the 800s, but it’s all wind and no wave. Not worth paddling out for.

Now, Saturday the 25th and Sunday the 26th, things start to wake up. Saturday morning has a 7ft swell from the ENE, but it’s a short 7-second period – that’s wind swell, junk. The energy is high (1146), but it’s not going to shape up well on a reef. Saturday afternoon switches back to a 3ft SSW swell, still long period (18s), but it’s marginal. Sunday the 26th is a bit better: 4ft–5ft from the E, period 15–16 seconds, fresh cross-off wind. The energy climbs to 1462, but it’s still a marginal call.

The standout window is Monday the 27th through Wednesday the 29th. Monday sees 5ft–6ft from the E, with a 14-second period, and the energy is pumping over 1500. It’s still cross-off wind, so it’s clean, but the size is creeping up. Tuesday the 28th is the real highlight. The wind drops to a light breeze – just 6 mph from the NE, cross-off, and the swell holds at 6ft from the E, 13 seconds. The energy is 1281, and the conditions are excellent for experienced surfers. This is the one to point your board at. The waves will have good shape, long lines, and that light wind will keep it glassy. Expect crowds, though, as it’s a spot that can get busy.

Thursday the 30th starts to drop off – 5ft from the ENE, period dropping to 10 seconds, wind picking up again. Friday the 31st is flat, with 2ft SSW swell, not worth the walk. Then we get into early August, and the swell comes back with a punch. Saturday the 1st and Sunday the 2nd see 8ft–10ft from the ENE, but with a short 8-second period and a fresh cross-off wind. That’s big, messy, and only for experts. The energy is big (over 1000), but at 10ft, it’s too much for most. Monday the 3rd and Tuesday the 4th are still sizeable (5ft–7ft), but the period is short and the wind is a light cross or cross-off. Bottom line: the best bet is Tuesday the 28th, with that clean, solid E swell and light wind.

Rusty out.

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