Back Strands Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what we’ve got for the next couple of weeks. It’s a bit of a mixed bag, and honestly, you’ll be waiting a while before anything really good lines up. We’ve got a long stretch of messy, poor-quality surf to get through first.

The first few days are a write-off. That 4ft to 5ft west swell on Tuesday and Thursday is completely wasted by strong cross-shore winds, making for a lumpy, choppy mess. The combined energy is moderate at best (212 to 430), but it’s not worth getting wet for. By Friday the 4th, the swell jumps up to a solid 8ft, with a long 11-second period, and the wave energy is strong (1555 to 1789), but that 28 mph cross-onshore wind from the west will turn it into a washing machine. That’s strictly for the kite surfers, not for paddle surfing.

We have a real lull from the 6th to the 13th. The swell drops right off, with heights mostly under 3ft and weak energy readings (often under 100). The wind does go offshore or clean a few times, but there’s just not enough swell to do anything with. It’s a frustrating week of nothing.

The one standout, and it’s over a week away, arrives on Monday the 14th of September at Back Strands. That morning, a clean 5ft west swell rolls in with a 9-second period, and a light offshore breeze from the ESE. The water temperature is 62°F, which is a touch warmer than normal for this time of year. The energy is moderate (401), and the conditions are clean. The real magic happens that afternoon, though. The swell jumps to 8ft with a solid 11-second period, and the combined energy surges to a very strong 1656. The wind shifts to a gentle cross-offshore from the SSE, leaving it clean. This is proper groundswell, and it’s going to be excellent for experienced surfers. That size is too much for beginners, and with a long period like that, the reef at Back Strands will be the place to be. The optimum swell direction is west, and this is coming from the west, so it’s a perfect match. Keep in mind, crowds are possible here.

The next day, Tuesday the 15th, still has some good energy. The morning offers a 7ft WNW swell with a 10-second period, clean conditions, and strong energy (850). It’s a very good follow-up day. The swell drops off again after that, and by Wednesday the 16th, we get a massive 8ft, 14-second period west swell, but the wind is light cross-onshore, and the conditions are described as marginal. It’s a lot of power (2237) that might not be clean enough to make the most of it.

So, the clear winner here is the afternoon of Monday the 14th at Back Strands. That’s your session. The morning of the 15th is a solid backup. Everything else before that is a long wait for a couple of hours of magic.

Rusty.

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