Back Strands Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s get into it for this stretch of the West Coast surf.

First up, we’ve got Back Strands, a reef setup that’s fairly consistent and fairly exposed. The water temp is sitting about average for this time of year, so nothing wild there.

The next 16 days are a real mixed bag, and honestly, it’s a tough run. The first week is pretty much a write-off. From Sunday the 6th through to the end of the week, the wind is just a mess – strong cross-offshores, then swinging cross-on, and even a raw onshore breeze. The swell is small to moderate, but the quality is shot. The combined swell energy is weak to moderate (49 to 1633), but that doesn’t matter when the wind is junk. Early on the 6th, we see a 2ft, 8-second W swell with 25 mph southerly cross-off winds, but it’s “poor surf conditions.” The afternoon tries to pick up with a 3ft, 10-second W swell, but the wind is still strong. Through Monday and Tuesday, the swell builds to 10ft from the WNW with a 10-second period, but the onshore winds are howling, making it a messy, blown-out mess. At 10ft, this is expert-only territory, and even then, it’s ugly.

The Standout

The one bright spot in this whole outlook is Thursday morning, September 16th, about a week and a half out. It’s only a “marginal” call, with a score of 1 out of 10, but compared to the rest, it’s the best on offer. We get a clean 4ft W swell, with a 10-second period, and a nice cross-offshore breeze from the south at 12 mph. The combined energy is moderate (328). The wave comment says “marginal surf forecast or questionable tide conditions,” so it’s not a guarantee, but that clean cross-off wind will make the most of what’s there. For a reef, a longer period like this (10s) is a good sign, giving the waves a bit more shape. Keep an eye on the tide.

The Rest

After that, the forecast gets messy again. The 17th has clean cross-off winds but the swell is a bit smaller and the period drops to 8-9 seconds, making it weaker. The 18th sees a light cross-on breeze, which butchers the clean lines. The 19th morning has another clean cross-off window with a 5ft, 10-second WNW swell, giving us moderate energy (392), but it’s another “marginal” call. The 20th and 21st are back to strong cross-on winds and lumpy, poor surf.

So, it’s a long, frustrating gap of a week or more with nothing really clean. The reality is, for this spot, the window is super narrow. If you’re looking to paddle, Thursday 16th morning is the only real chance to get a clean, rideable wave, and even then, keep your expectations tempered. The 19th morning is a backup but less reliable. For the rest of the time, it’s more of a kite-surfing show when the swell is up and the wind is cross-on.

Rusty.

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