Back Strands Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here. Let's chew through this forecast. It's a tale of two weeks: a whole lot of nasty followed by a real nice payout. You're gonna have to be patient, because the good stuff doesn't show up for over a week.

The pattern is a solid stormy pulse that tears things up, then the wind lays down and it cleans right up. There's a solid nine-day dry spell of poor surf before we get a green light.

The only spot in the picture is Back Strands. So, let's get into it.

First week is a write-off. On the 4th of September, we get a big 12-foot swell rolling in from the west, but the wind is a strong onshore at 28 mph. It's a total mess, with a combined energy of 4449 – that's a ton of power, but it's all wrong. Not for a paddleboard, unless you want a beating. That's kite-surfing territory.

That big but dirty swell hangs around for days. The wind does swing offshore on the 5th with 5-foot waves, but the period is a short 10 seconds and it's still rated as poor.

Then the tide turns. On the 14th of September (Monday morning), we get 5-foot waves from the west, a 11-second period, and a light offshore wind. The water temp is about average for this time of year. The energy is a solid 640 – nice and punchy. That's the first day it's worth paddling out.

But the real winner is the afternoon of the 14th. We get 6 feet of clean groundswell out of the west-northwest with a 12-second period, and the wind goes dead flat – glass. Energy hits 937. That's your best window of the whole 16 days. Perfect, clean reef waves with no wind. Just you and the ocean.

Tuesday the 15th is nearly as good: 6-foot swell from the west-northwest, glassy conditions in the afternoon, clean in the morning, and strong, consistent energy (815). Take the day off.

After that, the swell drops, but the 17th of September (Thursday afternoon) has 5-foot swell with a light offshore breeze and an 11-second period, so you'll still get some fun ones.

Just remember, Back Strands is a reef break. That long-period groundswell (12 seconds) will really stand up and reel off, but it can get shifty. The break is fairly exposed, and with that kind of quality on offer, especially on that Monday and Tuesday, expect the lineup to be busy.

First week, don't bother. Keep an eye on the wind and wait for that second week. It's worth the wait.

Rusty.

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