Riviere de Galets Surf Forecast and Surf Report

G’day, Rusty here. Let’s have a proper look at what’s on the cards for Riviere de Galets over the next couple of weeks.

Right off the bat, I gotta be straight with you – the first week is a bit of a write-off. We’ve got a heap of swell pushing in, but the wind’s just not playing ball. It’s mostly cross-onshore and messy, so even though the waves are there, the quality is poor. We’re talking about a solid stretch of lumpy, choppy conditions from Tuesday the 8th right through to Monday the 14th September. The water temp is sitting at 76°, which is a touch warmer than normal for this time of year – a bit of bonus warmth for the wetsuit-free crew, but you’ll be fighting the wind all the same.

Now, the combined energy from the swells is huge, with values hitting four and five digits. For example, Wednesday morning the 9th sees a massive energy reading of 11901 (strong to very strong), but with a 15 ft cross-onshore mess, it’s not surfable. It’s a real shame because the swell direction (SSW) is pretty much ideal for this reef and point break, and the period is long – 17 seconds – which would normally give you some grinding, powerful lines. But that ESE wind just ruins it.

Thursday the 10th gives a tiny glimmer. Afternoon sees the swell drop to 6 ft from the SW, with a 15-second period, and the wind eases to a cross-shore, fresh breeze. The forecast calls it marginal, but if you’re desperate and the tide lines up, you might snag a few lumpy ones. The energy is still moderate (3434).

Friday the 11th and Saturday the 12th are similar stories – moderate cross-shore winds, 6 ft to 8 ft swells, but the energy’s dropping. It’s still choppy and the quality’s marginal at best.

The real standout, and the one I’d keep an eye on, is Thursday the 17th and Friday the 18th September. Now, this is a long-range call so don’t carve it in stone yet, but the wind looks set to shift to a gentle cross-shore from the East, with a moderate breeze. The swell pulses back up to 12 ft from the ESE, with a 9-10 second period – that’s a shorter period, which means more close-set waves but not as much grunt. The combined energy readings are still strong (2992 on Thursday afternoon, 3454 on Friday morning). Here’s the catch: the forecast says the swell is predicted to be too big for this break. At 12 ft, we’re talking expert-only territory. Riviere de Galets is a reef and point setup, so it can handle some size, but these numbers suggest it’s gonna be a heavy, spitting beast. The wind and tide are favorable, though, so if you’re an experienced local who knows the channel, it could be epic – but not for the faint-hearted.

After that, the surf fades through the weekend of the 20th and 21st, with marginal 5 ft to 5 ft SW swells and moderate cross-shore breezes. The energy drops to moderate (around 2000). By Wednesday the 23rd, it’s pretty much flat.

So, to sum it up: the first week is mostly a loss due to wind. The best – and really only – true standout is Thursday the 17th and Friday the 18th, but it’s only for the fearless experts who can handle a solid, clean (but big) wave. Keep an eye on it as we get closer.

Stay salty,
Rusty

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