38 Line Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let’s break down 38 Line. This forecast is a real mixed bag – a whole lot of waiting before the ocean finally cleans up and gives us something worth paddling out for.

Right now, through late August and into the first few days of September, it’s pretty poor. Thursday the 27th is flat, with a weak 1ft NE windswell and a light cross breeze – not worth suiting up. Friday and Saturday don’t improve much, with small, junky waves and onshore winds. The water is much warmer than normal for this time of year, sitting at 80°F, which is over 5°F above average – that’s very unusual.

Sunday the 30th offers the first tiny window of hope. Early morning we get glassy conditions and a clean 3ft swell from the NE with a 8-second period. The energy is moderate, but the waves are only surfable, nothing special. That window closes fast as the wind swings onshore by the afternoon.

Then things go completely sideways. Starting in September, we’re looking at a big, powerful, but very messy swell train. Monday the 2nd sees the swell building to 5ft, but with a strong cross-onshore wind at 25 mph, it’s a lumpy, blown-out mess. By Wednesday the 4th, we’re looking at 12ft swell with a 9-second period – the energy is incredibly strong – but the wind is still hammering it onshore. This is big, raw, and not for paddle surfing; this setup is more interesting for kite surfing than anything else. It stays big and ugly right through until the 7th.

Finally, a change on Monday the 7th of September. The wind swings to a light cross-offshore from the WNW, and we’ve got a solid 8ft swell from the ENE with an 8-second period. The energy is very strong, and conditions are reported as very good. This is the standout. The water is still warm, and the break will be exposed to this east energy. Expect clean faces and proper waves. Keep in mind, at 8ft, this is pushing into expert territory – not for beginners.

Tuesday the 8th holds a smaller 6ft NE swell with clean wind, and Wednesday the 9th is even better: 5ft NE swell with light offshore, glassy morning conditions. These are the days to circle. The period is around 8 seconds, so it’s a shorter-period windswell, but with good winds, 38 Line will offer some fun, rippable sections.

The 11th brings one more clean morning with 4ft NE swell and offshore wind, but the afternoon gets choppy.

Overall, the first week-plus is a write-off. The real action kicks in around the 7th through the 9th of September. That Monday morning with the 8ft swell and clean offshore breeze is your best bet. It’s a long wait, but it should be worth it.

- Rusty

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