Makaha Surf Forecast and Surf Report

G’day, Rusty here, looking out for ya.

Alright, we’ve got a two-week-plus window at Makaha, and I gotta be straight with you – it’s a bit of a mixed bag, so don’t expect perfection. The first couple of days are looking pretty marginal, but keep your eyes on the prize around Thursday the 3rd of September and beyond, because there's some proper winter groundswell energy starting to show.

We kick off Thursday the 27th of August with small, confused 2ft SW swell at 14 seconds, but it’s already choppy with a cross-onshore breeze. The water is a balmy 68°, which is much warmer than normal for this time of year – feels like a bathtub. Not much to get excited about out of the gate.

Friday the 28th sees a jump in size, with 6ft to 7ft SW swell rolling in, and the period stretching out to 15-16 seconds. That’s proper groundswell energy, and the combined swell energy reading is massive – well into the four digits (1634 on Friday morning, 1955 Friday afternoon). The wind is light cross-shore, so it’s not horrible, but the surf report warns of marginal conditions. It’s got grunt, but the quality isn't dialled in yet.

Saturday the 29th holds 6-6ft SW swell, period easing to 14 seconds. The light SSW wind keeps it rideable, but it’s still a little on the choppy side. By Sunday the 30th, size drops to 5-5ft and the period shortens, with a moderate breeze picking up. Monday the 31st is dropping fast – down to 4ft – and poor conditions. That’s a three-day run of average to poor surf, to be honest.

Now, a bit of a lull on Tuesday the 1st and Wednesday the 2nd of September – looking real small, like 2ft to 3ft, and mostly poor or marginal. The combined energy drops to around 400-600, which is weak stuff.

But here’s where it gets interesting. Thursday the 3rd of September is the standout of the first week. Overnight, we see a 4ft SW groundswell with a 17-second period and the combined energy bumps up to 1025 (moderate). The wind is a light cross-onshore from the SW at 6 mph, which is about as clean as you’ll get at Makaha for this run. It's not massive, but that long-period energy will wrap in nicely at this exposed reef. The optimum swell direction is SW, and the swell is coming right out of the SW, so the angle is spot on. It's a solid, clean, early-morning session for those who know the lineup.

Friday the 4th of September holds similar 5ft SW swell, still with a long 14-16 second period, and combined energy over 1100. The wind stays light, but it’s a touch more cross-on. Still good fun though. After that, from Saturday the 5th through Monday the 7th, we’re back into marginal territory, dropping to 4ft – 4ft with shorter periods.

Now for the second week – and this is a promising one. Tuesday the 8th of September is a real eye-opener. That 4ft to 4ft reading doesn’t sound like much, but look at the period: 18 seconds! That’s a very long period groundswell, and the combined energy jumps to 1435 (strong). The wind is light cross-onshore. This is a point-break dream setup – long, clean lines. If it comes together properly, this could be the best day of the whole outlook. Wednesday the 9th of September follows up with 5ft SW swell at 16 seconds and combined energy over 1350. Good chance of a solid, well-shaped wave.

Thursday the 10th of September sees a moderate breeze and dropping energy, and the run fizzles out into Friday the 11th with a short-period wind swell from the south that might be better for kiting. Overall, you want to be in the water on Thursday the 3rd of September, and definitely pencil in Tuesday the 8th and Wednesday the 9th of September – those long-period SW swells at this reef with light wind are the real gems of the period.

Stay stoked, and don't sleep on that long-period action.

Rusty.

Read more