Danger Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s be straight with you – this next 16 days is a tough stretch for the Danger area. We’re looking at a real dry spell, so don’t get your hopes up. The whole run is plagued by tiny, weak swell and a lot of onshore or cross-onshore wind, which is going to keep things messy. We’re talking about a long gap with basically nothing rideable for a solid week and a half.

Let’s start with Tuesday morning, July 28th. There’s a tiny 2ft swell from the WNW with a period of just 7 seconds. The combined energy is a measly (29). The wind is a light cross-onshore, so it’s not completely blown out, but the wave comment says it all: “poor surf conditions.” The water is sitting at 84°, about a touch warmer than normal, which is a minor oddity but not worth paddling out for. This pattern just repeats itself day after day – a little bump of swell, never getting above 3ft, and the wind is almost always on it from the WNW or NW, making it choppy and ugly.

The only real glimmers of hope come on the glassy mornings. Saturday, August 1st, has a glassy morning with that same tiny 2ft, 7-second swell, but the energy is still only (35). It’s clean, but there’s no power. Tuesday, August 4th, is another glassy morning, but again, the swell is tiny. Friday, August 7th, morning has a glassy calm with 2ft swell, and then Saturday, August 8th, morning is dead flat at 1ft. For a spot that’s already inconsistent, this is a barren run.

The best of a bad bunch is probably Thursday, August 6th, morning. The swell hits 3ft from the WNW with a 6-second period, energy is (59), and the wind is a gentle cross-shore. It’s the closest thing to a clean, rideable wave in the whole forecast, but it’s still small and weak. This is a breakwater setup, so those tiny swells won’t have much shape. The swell direction is coming from the WNW, but the optimum swell direction for Danger is from the WSW, so the angle is a bit off, too.

Don’t bother with the afternoons – the wind cranks up to 12 mph from the NW, turning everything into a choppy mess. For any beginner reading this, the swell is never big enough to be a problem, but the quality is so poor it’s not worth the drive. Honestly, this entire 16-day window is a write-off. It’s a normal blank run for this area, and the tiny, weak swell and poor winds mean there’s nothing to recommend. The only thing to do is wait for the next system.

Rusty.

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