L'Abbatoir Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, this is Rusty. Let's have a look at what's on the table for L'Abbatoir.

Gotta be straight with you – the next two weeks are a real mixed bag, and mostly a frustrating one. The water temp is sitting at a warm 84°, which is pretty average for this time of year, so no surprises there. The problem is the wind. We've got a persistent easterly breeze that just won't quit, and that's been messing with the conditions at this exposed reef break. The swell direction is coming straight out of the east as well, which is the optimum direction for this spot, but the wind is making a mess of it. For most of the first week, you're looking at cross-shore chop, making it hard to find a clean face. The energy is mostly moderate, with values like 143 (Sunday) to 262 (Wednesday), but it's not translating into good waves.

The standout window, and it's a tight one, falls on Monday, 31st August. The morning is still a bit lumpy with a cross-breeze and a 5ft east swell, period at 9 seconds, and energy around 418 – moderate. But the afternoon is where it gets interesting. The wind swings to the west-southwest, giving us a cross-offshore flow. The swell drops slightly to 5ft, still from the east, with a period of 8 seconds. The energy settles to 329. That clean wind is the key – it'll finally groom the reef. This is the best chance for a decent session, but you'll have to share it; the spot can get crowded on days like that. It's not a beginner wave at this size, but for the experienced crew, it's the only real window.

After that, the wind goes back to being a pain. Tuesday, 1st September morning has a tiny, clean 3ft swell, but it's marginal. Then we hit a big gap. From Wednesday, 2nd September all the way through to Saturday, 6th September, the wind is back to a strong, lumpy cross-shore, and the swell is inconsistent, with energy dropping as low as 71. The waves are small and messy. There's a pulse of swell on Saturday, 5th September – 6ft with 8-second period and fresh cross-offshore wind, giving it a clean look. Energy jumps to 435. It's a marginal call, but it might be the second-best option for someone who's keen. The models are showing a bigger swell for Sunday, 30th August – a 12ft east swell with an 11-second period and massive energy of 3389. But the wind is onshore and choppy, making it a total mess. That's a kite-surfing day, not a paddle-surfing day. The long period will make it wall up, but the wind will ruin it.

So, the plan is simple: wait for that Monday afternoon window. It's the only clean, surfable wave on offer. The rest of the run is a write-off.

Rusty.

Read more