Fourth Beach Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, it’s Rusty here, and I’ve got the skinny on the next couple of weeks for Fourth Beach. It’s a bit of a tale of two forecasts, so let’s get into it.

The overall pattern is heavy on the swell, but the wind is going to be a real pain in the arse for a lot of the time. We’ve got some serious energy rolling in from the deep south, which is great for power, but the onshore and cross-shore winds are going to mess up the surface for most of the first week. It’s an advanced spot, so you need to be ready for a beating, especially when it gets big.

Let’s start with the first real window of opportunity. Saturday morning, September 5th is your best early bet. We’ve got a solid 10 ft swell from the SSW, with a long period of 14 seconds – that’s proper groundswell, pushing a massive 3826 units of energy. The wind is a light 6 mph cross-off from the NW, which will keep the face clean. This is big, powerful stuff, and at 10 ft, it’s strictly for the experienced crew. The water temp is sitting about average for the time of year, so you won’t need a thick wetsuit, but you’ll be glad for a good one.

After that, the wind swings onshore and the surf quality drops off a cliff. From Saturday afternoon right through to the middle of the next week, it’s a write-off. The wind is pumping from the SE, sometimes hitting 25 mph with gusts, and the swell is still huge – we’re talking 8 ft to 12 ft with a long period, but with a cross-onshore mess, it’s just a washing machine. That big swell energy is still there (up to 6708 units), but it’s unrideable for a paddle surfer. Honestly, if you’ve got a kite, this setup might look more interesting than a surfboard.

We get a bit of a reprieve later in the second week. The wind goes lighter and turns offshore again. Friday morning, September 11th, the swell drops to a more manageable 5 ft from the SSW with a 15-second period, and a 12 mph cross-off from the NE will clean it up. The energy is moderate (1115 units), but the conditions are getting better. The real standout in the second week though, without a doubt, is Friday afternoon, September 18th. The swell is a solid 6 ft from the SSW with a 15-second period, but the magic is in the wind – a 3 mph glass-off from the SW. That is the stuff of dreams. The wave energy is moderate (1550 units), but with glassy conditions, that long-period groundswell will line up beautifully. This is the best session on offer, but it’s a long-range call, so keep an eye on it.

The following Saturday and Sunday (September 19th and 20th) look like a washout again with a near gale blowing, so don’t get your hopes up for the end of the run.

All in all, if you’re an advanced surfer, lock in the Saturday morning of the 5th for the raw power, and circle that Friday afternoon of the 18th for the cleanest, most beautiful waves you’ll see in the whole forecast. It’s not a perfect run, but there are two gems in there.

Rusty.

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