Fourth Beach Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, grab a coffee and pull up a chair. This is a long-range look at what’s cookin’ for Fourth Beach, so let’s break it down.

First off, the water’s sitting at 62°F which is pretty much spot on for this time of year – no nasty surprises there. The first half of the week is a write-off for anyone who wants a proper session. We’re talking massive, dangerous swell and howling cross-onshore winds. From Tuesday the 11th right through until Thursday the 13th, the swell is thumping in at 12 ft to 18 ft from the SSW, with a very long period of 16-17 seconds. The wave energy is absolutely enormous (26,811 to 5,404), and while the wind might be favorable for the tide, it’s way too big. This is big-wave territory only, and the conditions are lumpy and messy. Not a beginner’s game.

We’ve got a real gap of no good surf for a few days. The first real standout window opens up on Friday the 14th. That morning is the one to circle. The swell drops to a still-chunky 10 ft from the SSW, still with a long 16-second period, but the wind swings clean offshore from the NE. The wave energy is still strong (5,140), but the conditions are described as “clean” and the surf is excellent for experienced surfers. This is a proper session for the crew who’ve got the paddle strength and the nerves. The afternoon turns marginal with a cross-shore breeze, so get in early.

Saturday the 15th is a step down. The morning has a 7 ft SSW swell with a moderate 14-second period, and a clean cross-offshore breeze from the NNE. Wave energy is moderate (1,724). It’s a clean wave but a bit average, and the scores suggest it’s marginal. The afternoon gets choppy again.

Then we hit the next real standout. Sunday the 16th morning is a gem. The swell drops to a clean 4 ft from the SW, but the wind is glassy offshore from the NNE. The wave energy is weak (752), but with a clean offshore wind, it’ll be a fun, small-wave day for the longboard or a grovel board. The period is 13 seconds, so it’ll have a bit of push.

Monday the 17th morning is another goodie. The swell is 5 ft from the SSW, with a very long 19-second period – that’s proper groundswell energy. The wind is fresh offshore from the N, making for clean conditions. Wave energy is moderate (2,086). That long period means it’ll be a bit more walled up at the beach, but for a point or reef, it’ll be lined up. Excellent for the experienced crew.

Tuesday the 18th morning is also excellent. A 7 ft SSW swell, 16-second period, with a light offshore cross-off breeze from the NW. Clean conditions and moderate energy (2,032). Good for a solid paddle.

After that, the week runs into a bit of a lull. Wednesday the 19th is marginal, Thursday the 20th morning has a solid 8 ft SSW swell with a 17-second period and a light offshore breeze from the N – that’s another excellent session for the strong paddlers, with strong wave energy (3,377). The afternoon turns choppy.

Friday the 21st is a mess of wind and rain, but the afternoon has a clean 4 ft SSW swell with a light offshore breeze. Weak energy (691), but a fun little cleanup.

The final weekend and start of the next week, from the 22nd to the 24th, is a write-off again with rain, strong onshore winds, and poor, small surf. Then on Tuesday the 25th, we get a huge pulse of 12 ft SW swell with a 17-second period – that’s way too big again, and the wind will be clean but the wave energy is massive (6,293). Only for the brave.

So, the standout windows are Friday the 14th morning, Sunday the 16th morning, Monday the 17th morning, and Thursday the 20th morning. If you’re after the biggest, most powerful clean waves, Friday the 14th is the one. For a more relaxed, clean, smaller wave, Sunday the 16th is your best bet.

Stay safe out there.
Rusty

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