Fourth Beach Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here with a look at what's coming our way. We've got a solid run of swell on the cards, but the wind is going to be our main character in this story, for better or worse.

The period kicks off with a pulse of long-period groundswell, a SSW swell pushing in at 4ft to 5ft and a period of 14 to 16 seconds. The combined energy is moderate, hitting between 960 and 1364. The problem is, the wind is mostly cross or onshore, making things lumpy. For a good chunk of the first week, from the 12th right through to the 19th, the conditions are going to be a mixed bag. There's plenty of push, but the ocean surface is going to be a mess. The water temp is about average for this time of year at 62°F, so not much of a shock when you get in.

A few windows open up. Thursday the 17th and Friday the 18th see lighter winds, with Thursday afternoon showing some moderate offshore breezes from the NNE and clean conditions. The swell drops right back to 4ft, so it'll be small and clean, perfect for a longboard or a funboard. It's not going to be pumping, but you could get some smooth lines.

Then, we hit a real standout. For the experienced crew only, the morning of Monday the 21st of September is where it gets serious. A massive SSW groundswell (16 second period) is forecast to hit 12ft, with a combined energy reading of 5780. The wind is forecast to be a clean cross-offshore from the NE. This is a big, powerful, and clean day, but it is way too big for beginners at 12ft and is strictly for experts. The same goes for Tuesday the 22nd of September, which drops a little to 10ft, still big, but with clean offshore winds from the N all day. Another one for the very experienced surfer.

Now, looking further out to the end of the period, Sunday the 27th of September is the other one to circle. The swell is back down to a much friendlier 5ft to 6ft, with a nice 14-15 second period. The morning shows light cross-offshore breezes from the ENE and clean conditions, a much more welcoming prospect for the average surfer after that big event mid-week.

There are a few long gaps in the middle where the winds are a disaster, like the 23rd, 24th and 25th, so don't bother paddling out then. The combination of onshore wind and heavy swell will make it a messy, blown-out affair. The low tide and swell direction combo might actually make it more interesting for someone on a kite than a paddle board.

So, to sum it up: the best wave on offer for the skilled surfer is Monday the 21st of September, with a monster, clean 12ft SSW swell. For the rest of us, aim for Sunday the 27th of September, with clean, manageable 5ft waves.

Rusty.

Read more