The Core Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let’s get into it. The next couple of weeks are looking pretty grim for The Core, so don’t get too excited just yet. We’ve got a long stretch of small, weak, and messy surf ahead. For the first week and a half, the swell is tiny, the energy is mostly in the low double or single digits, and the wind is all over the place. You’re looking at poor surf conditions day after day, with only the very occasional “ordinary” wave. The best you’ll get is some clean, glassy conditions on Tuesday afternoon, but even then it’s only 2ft of weak, short-period ENE swell. It’s not worth paddling out for unless you’re desperate.

The Core is a beginner spot, inconsistent at the best of times, and exposed to that ENE swell. The water temp is about average for this time of year, so nothing weird there. But the lack of energy is the real story. We’re talking combined swell energy in the 20s and 50s, even dropping to 23 on Saturday the 15th. That’s weak. It’s not until Thursday the 20th that we see anything over 3ft, but that’s with 12 mph cross-shore winds and a 6-second period, so it’s going to be a chop fest. Then Friday the 21st kicks up a bit more, but the wind is howling at 22 mph in the morning, and it’s just a mess.

Now, the one true standout in this whole window is Saturday the 22nd. Holy moly, that’s the day. The swell jumps to 7ft, the energy rockets up to 815, and the wind drops to nothing. Glassy conditions, both morning and afternoon. Sure, it’s a short-period 8-second swell, which can be a bit lumpy, but at this size and with that kind of energy, it’s going to be the best thing we’ve seen by a long shot. That said, 7ft is getting solid, and for a beginner spot like The Core, that’s going to be pushing it. This is for the more experienced crew. The swell direction is ESE, which is a bit south of the optimum NE, but the power and the clean conditions will make up for it. This is the one to circle.

After that, the swell drops back down. Sunday the 23rd has some size in the morning at 6ft, but the wind is on it and the energy is down. The following week is a mix of small surf, with a brief kick in energy on Tuesday the 25th with a longer period of 13 seconds, but the size is only 3ft and it’s cross-shore. It’s promising, but a long way out, so don’t book your flights yet.

So, the short of it: the next ten days are a write-off. Saturday the 22nd is the standout, and it’s a big one. Get on it if you can handle it. After that, we’re back to chasing scraps.

Rusty.

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