The Core Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let’s get into it. Rusty here, lookin’ at the charts for the Core.

First things first, I gotta be straight with you – we’re in for a real dry spell to kick things off. From Saturday the 25th of July, all the way through to the morning of Monday the 3rd of August, there’s just nothin’ worth paddling out for. We’re talkin’ 10 days of tiny, weak waves. The swell is barely crackin’ 1 ft for most of that, with a short period around 8 to 10 seconds, and the energy is just pitiful – mostly in the 20s and 30s on the energy scale. The winds are mostly cross or cross-off, but it doesn’t matter much when there’s no wave to ride. It’s a long, flat stretch, so if you’re itchin’ to surf, you’re gonna have to wait.

Now, the water temperature is sittin’ around 84°, which is pretty much bang on average for this time of year, so no surprises there.

The real action, and I mean the *only* action, starts to show up on Monday the 3rd of August. The morning of the 3rd, we see a little bump to 2 ft from the ESE with a 9-second period, but the energy is still only 75 – weak. It’s clean though, with a cross-off breeze. That afternoon, the energy jumps to 151, but it’s still small at 2 ft and a bit chopped.

But hold on to your board – Tuesday the 4th of August is the standout. The morning brings a solid 6 ft swell from the ESE, with a long 13-second period. That’s proper groundswell, and the energy is a massive 1083. The wind is a clean cross-off, so it’s gonna be glassy. This is big, powerful stuff – over 5 ft, so it’s not a beginner wave. The afternoon of the 4th gets even better: 6 ft, same 13-second period, and the energy jumps to 1319. The wind drops to a light breeze, cross-off, so it’s gonna be clean, lined-up waves. This is excellent for experienced surfers.

Wednesday the 5th keeps the quality goin’. Morning has 6 ft, 12-second period, and 1218 energy with a light cross-off wind. The afternoon is 5 ft, 12 seconds, 1161 energy, and a gentle cross-off. Still clean, still powerful.

Thursday the 6th of August is still big – 6 ft from the ESE with a 13-second period, and the energy is peakin’ at 1644 in the morning. But the wind gets a bit more cross in the afternoon, so it’s not as clean as the days before. Still, it’s a big swell.

Now, the catch: The Core is an exposed spot, and it’s inconsistent. It doesn’t break often, so when it does, it’s a treat. The optimum swell direction is NE, and we’re gettin’ ESE, which is a bit off. Also, crowds are listed as “sometimes,” so you might have some company, but with this much swell, it’ll spread out.

For the best of the best, I’m callin’ Tuesday the 4th of August afternoon. That 6 ft, 13-second groundswell with light cross-off wind is gonna be clean, powerful, and the 1319 energy tells you there’s plenty of punch. It’s a big wave, so this is for the crew who know what they’re doin’. Wednesday the 5th is a close second, with similar conditions.

The end of the run gets messy. Friday the 7th of August sees the wind howlin’ at 22 mph, and by Saturday the 8th, it’s a near gale at 34 mph. The swell is still 5 ft, but it’s blown out. Sunday the 9th of August has a glimmer of hope in the afternoon – the wind swings to a glassy WNW, and the swell is 5 ft from the ENE with a 12-second period, energy at 611. That’s a decent wave, but the morning is a mess with heavy rain and fresh breeze.

So, to sum it up: a long, flat start, then a solid window from Tuesday the 4th to Thursday the 6th of August for the experienced crew. Don’t bother before that.

Rusty.

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