The Core Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let’s chew the fat about The Core. The next week or so is pretty mediocre, I won't lie to you. We got surf, but it’s short-period, crossed up, and churned. For a spot as exposed as this, it just doesn’t have any power or shape. There’s a couple of mornings with light winds, but the swell is so junky it doesn't really matter. Good luck finding a clean one.

The water’s sitting at 82°, which is pretty standard for this time of year. Nothing unusual there.

Wednesday the 9th and Thursday the 10th are nothing but closeouts and chop. Swell’s only 4ft to 6ft with a measly 8-second period. The wind’s onshore, so it’s a mess. The energy is weak, just a couple of hundred, and it's doing nothing. Don't even bother paddling out.

Friday the 11th gets a little bigger, pushing 7ft to 7ft, and the period stretches to a slightly better 9 seconds. The combined energy starts to build, hitting 757, but the cross-onshore wind still has it lumpy and bumpy. It’s marginal. Maybe if you’re really jonesing, but don't expect any gems. The rest of the weekend into mid-next week is dead. Swell drops back under 4ft, the period is all over the shop, and there’s no push. Add the wind to that, and it's a total skunk.

Now, here's the real deal. The last few days of the forecast is when things get serious. But for The Core, it just gets *too* serious.

We see the energy start to stir on Saturday the 19th with a long-period ESE swell. The surf builds to a solid 8ft by the afternoon, with a 17-second period. That's a proper groundswell. The combined energy is strong, hitting 3342, and the wind is light. This is the first day that really gets the heart rate up.

Then it turns on. Sunday the 20th is a giant, with 10ft of ESE swell at 16 seconds. The energy is cranking, registering 4702, but the wind goes moderate cross-onshore and it gets messy. By Monday the 21st, we're looking at 11ft to 13ft at 16 seconds, with a colossal 10305 energy reading. That is a serious amount of water moving. Tuesday the 22nd is the peak: 15ft to 16ft of NNE swell with a 14-second period and a monstrous 14542 units of energy. The wind is light offshore in the morning, which would be perfect, but it's just too big. This is strictly for the elite, and even then, The Core is going to be a washing machine.

It finally cleans up on Thursday the 24th. The swell has dropped to a still-chunky 8ft, the period is a clean 12 seconds, and we finally get a light offshore SW wind. The energy is still solid at 2407, but it's manageable. This is your standout window, the one real bit of quality in the whole stretch. It's still big, it's not for beginners, but for the experienced crew, that Thursday is the day.

Otherwise, it's either too small and weak, or too big and raw. If you've got the skills, hold out for that last Thursday. If not, go find something else to do.

Rusty.

Read more