Jailbreaks Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here again. Let’s break it down in feet and miles per hour, because that’s how we measure the stoke.

We’re starting off slow, but the first real chance to paddle out is Monday, September 7th, at Jailbreaks. The water’s a touch warmer than normal for this time of year, sitting at 86°, so that’s a nice bonus. The swell is small but clean, with a light offshore breeze in the morning, giving you smooth, glassy waves around 3 ft from the SSE. The combined energy is moderate at (340), so it’s not a big day, but it’s a clean, fun morning. The wind stays light and offshore through Tuesday the 8th, when the swell bumps up to 4 ft from the SE, still clean. The energy is a bit higher (334). This is the best early-week option – small, clean, and easy.

By Wednesday the 9th, the swell direction shifts more S and the period jumps to 9 seconds, with the swell height holding at 4 ft SE. The energy is climbing (610), and the wind is cross-off. It’s still surfable, but not as glassy. That afternoon, the swell drops to 2 ft but the period goes to a very long 17 seconds – that’s groundswell. Those long-period waves will wrap nicely around the reef, but with the wind at 12 mph, it’s a little bumpy. Still, the long period will give you some nice, fat waves.

Thursday the 10th gets a bit more size, with the swell hitting 5 ft to 5 ft from the SSW, and the period staying long at 16 seconds. The energy is strong (1547), but the wind is cross-shore in the morning, making it messy. The afternoon cleans up with cross-off wind, giving you cleaner 5 ft waves. This is a solid day. That size is getting into intermediate-to-advanced territory.

Friday the 11th through Sunday the 13th sees the swell hanging in the 4 ft to 5 ft range, with a dominant SSW direction and periods between 15 and 19 seconds. The energy is high (up to 2724). The wind stays cross-off, but it’s a moderate to fresh breeze (15-19 mph), so it’s not glassy. The standout day is Friday afternoon, with 5 ft SSW swell and a 16-second period, and the energy is pumping (2724). It’s an expert session, but with the wind, it’s not perfect. Still, the best size and power of the week.

The following week, from the 14th to the 18th, the swell drops off, running 3 ft to 4 ft, with periods still long (14-17 seconds). The wind is mostly cross-off, but it’s fresh, so the surface will be bumpy. The energy is moderate (602-1288). Not a standout period, but mornings on the 14th and 15th have 3 ft to 4 ft SSW swell with clean conditions.

Then, far out on Saturday, September 19th, we see a new pulse. The swell jumps to 7 ft from the S with a 15-second period, and the energy is strong (1923). The wind is cross-off. This is a big swell, 7 ft, so it’s for experts only. It’s about 12 days out, so a long-range promise, but if it holds, that Saturday morning could be the best of the whole forecast. After that, it fades through the 20th and 21st, down to 3 ft with shorter periods, so the energy fades out (454).

Overall, the real standout is Friday afternoon, September 11th, with 5 ft SSW swell, 16-second period, and cross-off wind. The energy is huge (2724), and the reef at Jailbreaks will handle that long period well. It’s a true expert session. The second best is the long-range pulse on Saturday, September 19th, with 7 ft S swell – that’s the biggest, but it’s a gamble at this distance.

Rusty.

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