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Big River ratings
Quality on a good day: 2.0
Difficulty Level: 1.0
Crowds: 4.0

Overall: 2.8

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Surf Report Feed

Big River Swell Statistics, October: Surf with Light or Offshore Winds

This image shows only the swells directed at Big River that coincided with light winds or offshore conditions through a typical October. It is based on 2480 predictions, one every 3 hours. The direction of the spokes show where quality surf generating swell comes from. Five colours represent increasing wave sizes. Very small swells of less than 0.5m (1.5 feet) high are shown in blue. Green and yellow illustrate increasing swell sizes and red illustrates the biggest swells, greater than >3m (>10ft). In each graph, the area of any colour is proportional to how often that size swell happens.

The diagram indicates that the most common swell direction, shown by the longest spokes, was WNW, whereas the the prevailing wind blows from the NW. The chart at the bottom shows the same thing but without direction information. For example, swells larger than 1.5 feet (0.5m) coincided with good wind conditions 34% of the time, equivalent to 11 days. Open water swells exceeding >3m (>10ft) only arise 3% of the time in a typical October, equivalent to just one day but 16% of the time we expect swell in the range 2-3m (6.5-10ft) 16%, equivalent to (5 days). Taking into account the proportion of these swells that coincided with expected offshore winds, and given the fact that Big River is slightly protected from open water swells, we think that that clean surf can be found at Big River about 34% of the time and that surf is messed up by onshore wind 56% of the time. This is means that we expect 28 days with waves in a typical October, of which 11 days should be surfable.

IMPORTANT: Beta version feature! Swell heights are open water values from NWW3. There is no attempt to model near-shore effects. Coastal wave heights will generally be less, especially if the break does not have unobstructed exposure to the open ocean.