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Big River ratings
Quality on a good day: 2.0
Difficulty Level: 1.0
Crowds: 4.0

Overall: 2.8

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Surf Report Feed

Big River Swell Statistics, October: Surf with Light or Offshore Winds

This image shows only the swells directed at Big River that coincided with light winds or offshore conditions over a normal October. It is based on 2976 predictions, one every 3 hours. The direction of the spokes show where quality surf generating swell comes from. Five colours illustrate increasing wave sizes. Blue shows the smallest swells, less that 0.5m (1.5 feet) high. Green and yellow show increasing swell sizes and largest swells greater than >3m (>10ft) are shown in red. In both graphs, the area of any colour is proportional to how commonly that size swell was forecast.

The diagram implies that the most common swell direction, shown by the longest spokes, was WNW, whereas the the most common wind blows from the NW. The chart at the bottom shows the same thing but without direction information. For example, swells larger than 1.5 feet (0.5m) coincided with good wind conditions 33% of the time, equivalent to 10 days. Open water swells exceeding >3m (>10ft) only occur 3% of the time in a typical October, equivalent to just one day but 16% of the time we expect swell in the range 2-3m (6.5-10ft) 16%, equivalent to (5 days). Taking into account the fraction of these swells that coincided with expected offshore winds, and given the fact that Big River is slightly protected from open water swells, we calculate that clean surf can be found at Big River about 33% of the time and that surf is blown out by onshore wind 58% of the time. This is means that we expect 28 days with waves in a typical October, of which 10 days should be surfable.

IMPORTANT: Beta version feature! Swell heights are open water values from NWW3. There is no attempt to model near-shore effects. Coastal wave heights will generally be less, especially if the break does not have unobstructed exposure to the open ocean.